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I recall reading discussions about all this when I changed mine years ago. I believe Chris Wright detailed the various transistors but can't seem to search on his posts now, however came across this, which may be of help. Post by ScottAndrews » Mon Mar 14, 2005 5:33 am There is a lot of confusion ab...

Type spax into the search box at the top. Haven't read them but a number of posts.

Good job Regarding the door boots. I replaced mine some time ago - had to buy the whole door loom. The thing with these is the transition sections to the rectangular shaped flanges aren't stiff enough, and collapse, resulting in the flange continually pulling out of the door post - had to bond them ...

Essentially, if the ABS light stays on after starting but before moving issue will be with either the ABS relays or the ABS unit itself. If comes on only after mobile will be sensor related. I recently had the former issue, replaced the relays, no change , so sourced a 2nd hand ABS unit which solved...

There's plenty of heat shielding products around, like here. https://www.heatshieldproducts.co.nz/header-armor.html The header armour is easy to work with and mould to shape. I've seen plenty used on race cars to shield hydraulic reservoirs and had an AU Falcon with a factory exhaust manifold shield...

See attached (n0t mine) which gives some guidelines on what to expect with varying levels of modification and relative investment. I have a modified Euro B34 doing 214 at the wheels on a dyno dynamics rolling road (250-260 at fly) - 10.6:1 comp - 284 schrick cam, schrick springs, titanium retainers,...

There were a bunch of logo designs posted on here a few years ago.....somewhere

Be happy! M90s are notorious for burning head gaskets between the cylinders where they are thinner than the m30b34. Ask me how I know. :)

This must be what Jeremy Walton refers to in his book when talking about the development of the M30b34

Hopefully you can open both attached pdf's

These are the identifying marks of a supposed M30 I purchased turned out to be a M90. Actually had M90 embossed on front end of head

I'm in with whatever works long term.

Before you panic too much check it hasn't come from the power steer reservoir, which can happen if overfilled and the car not run for a few weeks or more. It will likely run along the chassis rail and drip to ground somewhere around the centre of the cross member.

Hi Gaz. Weclome back, you've been missing a while. Baders, I have the rear K Macs - they do a good job of correcting the rear camber squat with Bilstein sports / H&R's, but do stiffen things up a bit. Replaced the below tyres late last year - 255/40/17 on 9" RC ET22 rims with 15mm spacers. 35,000 k'...

That is eye-opening, particularly the f/r baseline. I always thought that the E24s were closer to 50/50 balanced front to rear. I weighed mine over Police weigh station (rolling) scales in Jan. All up weight including me (89Kg) + full tank fuel - 30km travel + circa 10kg crap in boot (besides spare...

Looks bloody good

If you're not bothered about noise then the world's your oyster When I got my car the exhaust was rooted, so for a while - year or so, I ran with a single 2 into 1 edelbrock central muffler, back to twin pipes out the end. It was raucus and a hoot on short trips, would set off car alarms in narrow s...

I've tried the JB weld 2 part mix before and is quite liquid - takes a while to cure and won't hang up in that location. I would think a putty would be more suitable; just did a quick search so something like this https://www.motoquipe.co.nz/buy/jb-j-b-weld-automotive-steelstik-steel-reinforced/JB8267

Yeah beautiful. Looks like a pristine garage queen - you're very lucky. Needs to be driven but look after it.

I have their full system. Haven't got a sound recording but can say is quite a deep sound, has a beat similar to a V8 at idle. Wife can hear me coming before I get to the bottom of the drive, which is 50m and windows double glazed, but does not drone, and easy to live with on long trips. It crackles...

I too have a M30B34 with oil cooler. Can't answer your question on the filter head but know they differ as I did replace mine. The coolers are always open. If you drive in a cold climate, especially short runs I would recommend fitting an oil thermostat - I know Korman sell them. I drive my car all ...

Geez Bert that is gutting - I can understand how you must feel. I hope the helicoil works ok. I would replace the bolts if any have been torqued to yield. I have attached a couple of motronic docs that I found yonks ago, not sure of they will tell you anything you don't already know. If the don't op...

Use RealOEM https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=5372-EUR---E24-BMW-635CSi or BMW Fans http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/ to identify what parts for your model. Plug in your VIN I need a clutch, and don't want crazy race parts I replaced mine with a SACH clutch kit - good quality. From memory...

Mine wasn't leaking, but there was no way i was going to spend $000's rebuilding the engine and replacing everything else and connect up a 32 year old heater. Same with the oil cooler- replaced that with new as well.

Last 2 pics. In the first one you can see where the heater box is located (when it's home)

Hang in there. Took me 3 weekends to replace mine. I've added a few more pics so you can see where you're headed and why it is worth persevering. The core itself will have 35 years of crap in it and the sealing between the core and the plastic casing will be absolutely buggered. As you will see woul...

Two more scary ones