bigcoupe.com

https://www.programainc.com/default.aspx

They are in Boca Raton, FL

You can't "uncrimp" the ends, but you _may_ be able to split the fitting with a hacksaw or mototool and cutoff wheel, remove the cable, and lengthen by silver soldering, then reattach the end by the same method. You need to be skilled at silver soldering/brazing or all you'll do is ruin the cable by...

Same here. I don't understand what "subscription bombed" means.

Probably right about the corrosion, but the CC circuit is supposed to "forget" any previous setting once the car is shut off. You've got a hanging CC motor/drive cable (Bowden cable in BMW parlance).

GazM3 wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 27, 2020 9:25 am

Who delivers on a Saturday?

Don't know about where you are, but here? USPS, UPS, FedEx, DHL, Prime.....

Duplicate. My server having a brain cramp.

Like I've said before, a "DONATE" button is at the top of every page here. Please use it. I did, several times.

There were wheels in that picture? Oh, yeah, I see them now.

Pretty much has to be excessive current draw by the blower motor.

Yup, and it will stop moving completely very shortly. If you want to see it quit quickly, punch the trip odometer reset.

Any time you are examining a 70s/80s/90s era BMW and you see that the trip odometer is sitting at zero it's a good bet that the odometer gears are DOA.

There is a "donate" link at the top of every forum. I gladly give every so often to this most worthy cause.

Great transaction with Troy (chicane). Perfect 13 button OBC was shipped quickly and safely. Recommended.

I'll take it. PM sent.

Glad you got it sorted. I've said it dozens of times to dozens of BMW owners, BMW are very, very ground-critical. One bad ground of all the ground connections can cause all sorts of weird problems, not the least of which is a no-start.

All of them I've seen have been on the lid. It's made to fit the circumference.

That goes to the secondary crank position sensor, used only by the BMW shop disgnostic computer. If you trace out the wiring you'll find it goes to the diagnostic port and nowhere else. You can safely leave it disconnected or remove the sensor altogether.

Test the #5 injector harness with a noid light. My guess is not only is it not pulsing, but it's killing the other five injector wiring sets.

14.7 stp x 9= 132.3 psi, or thereabout.

I wish this was April 1 and it was only an April fool's joke. Is there ANY way you could keep it alive by turning it over to someone else?

To be clear, I'M NOT VOLUNTEERING. I have neither the expertise nor the time to do it. I wish I could.

No, because of the wide tires.

Outgoing PMs stay in your outbox until the recipient reads it/them.

The pintle is supposed to help the pattern of the injector spray stay directed away from the injector tip....or so I was told.

Thank you! It has H&R "stock height" springs (no longer made) very little drop (1/2"-3/4"), stock shocks (soon to be replaced). The wheels are Beyern 5s, also no longer made, 8.5x18 with 235-40 tires up front, and 9.5x18 with 255-35 tires out back. A lot of guys told me the car would tram line like ...

That is dirt cheap! And being a diesel shop they certainly know their way around injector rebuilds.

Rule #1 on spacers: unless they are less than 5mm you MUST use hubcentric spacers. I have 25mm spacers on my 635 to bring the E36-offset wheels (et 45) out to E24 (et 20) spacing. You will need longer lug bolts. Make sure they are CONE lugs, not hemispherical lugs. I made the spacers myself. I am bl...

Not familiar with Dr. Injector. This is what I mean. And the kits I've bought in the past didn't include the filter screens.