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Doc, thanks so much for the extra information. I have gone through the top of the motor with brake cleaner but did not check as well for leaks under the manifold. I did have one tube off and reattached but it didn't make a difference. I have ordered a new O2 sensor, accordion boot and breather valve...

OK, so after a long winter storage for the 6, I was finally able to remove it from hibernation and start working on it again. Still cant stop the surging idle, did find a ICV valve, helped a little, but just took the car about 3-4 min longer to start searching/surging. So a buddy of mine with an e28...

Looking for the Idle Control Valve. Part # 1286688. Please let me know if you have one that is in working condition. Thanks!

Joe

MC, any luck finding the idle control valve or solving the idle issue? I have been having the same difficulties but with a hunting idle. 700-1200 rpm, just revs up to 1200, settles back to 700, then up again. Unfortunately my car is in storage most of the year and I am unable to work on it. I am won...

ssf: I am unable to move anything in the ICV. The rattling inside sounds more like a small piece of broken metal or a little stone. I was unable to move any part of the valve inside the ICV. All of the hoses mentioned were checked, no cracks, all soft & pliable. Also replaces the seals to the di...

So I had a little extra time Sunday to do a little work on the 633. Removed most of the intake up to the manifold and cleaned/checked all the hoses, throttle body, ICV. All looked good and found no leaks as far as I could tell. Intake book checked out. When I removed the ICV, I could hear a tiny rat...

Redrumm- I sealed cracks in the intake boot on the top but I have not checked the underside recently. Will have to do so again. I continue to look for vacuum leaks but the going is slow because I am a little preoccupied with an engine swap in my e36. muscam1- I have been watching your thread about t...

Yes, that is absolutely correct. With the oil filler cap ON, the engine hunts & searches for an idle, when I take the oil fill cap OFF, the idle smooths out to about 1300 rpm, and is steady. No hunting or searching/surging for an idle...Very confusing to me, that's why I was looking to see if an...

Hello all, I have done some searching about the surging idle problems others have had, and have not encountered the symptoms that I have been getting with my '82 633. When cold, it idles at about 1000 rpm, when warming up, after about 1 minute, it begins its surging/hunting/searching for an idle spe...

Thanks. I will look into it!

Thanks so much for the help! Don, that is exactly the picture I was trying to download. The left cap in your picture is the one I have and the right one is the one that Blunttech and Real OEM says is now the correct cap for my engine. Is there a shorter rotor that you can order for the cap on the ri...

Sorry, My photo is too big and my computer is not allowing me to compress it to a size that fits. I will keep working on it and post it as soon as I can.

Attempted to install a new distributor cap and rotor into my 633 today. It seems the new Bremi cap has a center part that is too long (deep) and therefore will not allow me to re attach the new cap. The new rotor went on fine and is exactly the same as the old one. I have attached a photo of the 2 d...

Both blades on sensor are 1/4" wide and 3/8" long.

Sorry! I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed. Sensor in question is A not D. Does have Brown and White wires though.

Brucey, Sorry it took so long. I still am unable to upload pictures due to a problem with my phone. On your picture/diagram, the sensor is letter D, however, it has a brown & white wire. The temp gauge on the dash stopped working when the sensor fell apart but according to your diagram, that is ...

Thanks for the info Don! I think I am going to buy a new MC, my mechanical abilities are questionable at best so it would probably be better for me to just have to worry about changing the MC and not getting into the rebuild. I also plan on changing all 4 front flex hoses. I have quite a bit of expe...

So, I checked the bleeders, clear, checked the steel lines from the hoses to the caliper, clear. Tried the tool that sucks the brake fluid through the lines; no luck. Traced the offending line back to the master cylinder & unhooked, while pushing the brake pedal in with the line off the MC, no f...

Could this be it?

I was looking at that post through the search and notice that the temp gauge sensor on your picture has 2 vacuum lines, mine has 2 wires. I guess that is where I am getting confused. I have lost the temp gauge on the dash when I discovered the sensor came apart. Thanks for the info!

Yes, it is the 4 piston twin line setup. I will check the bleeder screws and see if that is the culprit. Thanks for the info and I will keep you posted on my progress.

Just replaced the 2 front calipers on the 82 633csi I have been working on. Have had trouble bleeding the brakes. I have a steady stream of fluid from the right side, top bleeder, but no matter how long I have my wife pumping the brake, I cant get any fluid out of the 2 lower bleeders. Could it be j...

OK, Not sure why the picture didn't load up, It is the sensor on top of the thermostat housing with 2 male leads, not the 3 senors on top of the housing where the return line to the radiator are. It is an 82 633csi. Sorry about the photo, My computer does not seem to like me at the moment. Ahhh, mod...

I am having some trouble identifying the sensor on top of the thermostat housing. I have looked on realnoem and it doesn't really show the senor and other pictures I have found show vacuum lines attached to it. I have attached at picture to see if anyone might be able to feel me what the actual part...