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My '88 UK Highline. These are 100% original.

Silver over black.

Have you thought of leaving the car on jackstands to take the weight of the tires? I had my e21 in storage for a year due to a job transfer and luckily no serious flat spots but the parkbrake had been set and it froze/rusted to the drum. I have but I have also heard that it is not a good idea as th...

635sharknose wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 19, 2021 4:25 pm

This is a photo of Phil's polished bumper, looks very well if you ask me.

They do look rather good! I'm so glad you could put them to good use

I went down the polishing route with the bumpers on my '88 Highline. But first it was necessary to grind off the hard anodised coating, although that went pretty well and didn't leave behind any ripples or other signs of what had been done - which I had initially been concerned about. But of course ...

I know what I know plip. Torque values made a difference in my case, and the problem/solution was/is repeatable. The only thing I haven't done yet is replace the front hubs. Jose I accept that in your case it made a difference, but it wouldn't have been simply because of the differing applied torqu...

Wacky as it sounds, wheel nut torque affects wobble on an M6. I tightened to 95 ft/lb once because that is what my local wheel shop said their book showed. Research revealed that original torque was rated at 75 ft/lb, then later upgraded to 85 ft/lb, and now shown (in BMW references) as 95 ft/lb. I...

Looked ok, but high mileage and a few other things didn't look quite right to me.

Not exactly on topic, but I'm interested to know if most people looking to buy an E24 are doing so with a view to it more of a project rather than a car to simply drive and enjoy?

tmoretta wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 11, 2021 7:19 pm

I am seeking low dust front brake pads for my -88 M6. Most all suppliers I have located only sell the rear pads.

Main dealer?

The point about using an impact gun is more about the way it applies the turning force rather than the amount of force, especially where what you're trying to remove is attached to something that itself isn't anchored especially rigidly. For example, it's perfectly feasible to remove a wheel bolt or...

Have you tried with an impact gun?

They look good. You're quite right not to paint the wheel mating surface, although it is important that this is spotlessly clean and free of corrosion or dirt, both in order to give the best possible connection between hub and wheel, and also to take away any possibility of causing unwanted disc run...

Thanks for the replies guys, will take a look under the panel this week when i get a chance to get to the garage. I did look at realoem but it was a bit confusing as it lists options for the main pump with or without the pre-supply. Cheers James Did you use your specific chassis number when searchi...

right front side 1/2 inch higher than left. right tire is slanted downward pushing wheel further out from the lip of the fender arch. I felt a new installation of OEM BMW stock touring springs on four corners along with Bilstein 4 shock absorbers. This did not solve the problem. It appears the righ...

My Highline is a very late '87 build and I believe it has two pumps. Have you tried plugging your chassis no in on Real OEM and see what it lists for your car?

Did the check panel indicate a problem?

I believe the flush is for corrosion protection. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, i.e. it attracts and absorbs water. Even though the amount of water is minuscule, it does attack the metal brake lines. Flushing removes the contaminated fluid and the water absorbed within it. It also can lower the boilin...

On race cars we generally bleed the brakes ahead of every outing, and maybe between sessions too, and probably flush the system completely every three or four outings. But on my road cars I have to confess to only doing it if I feel the brakes aren't working as well as they should rather than at set...

Theantony wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 10, 2020 6:59 pm

Do you mean the piece that also reveals the screws that hold the instrument cluster. Mine is a euro so RHD.

That sounds right.

Are you familiar with RealOEM? Some of the diagrams there might help you. There are Bowden cables that connect from the slider control levers to the screen, facia and footwell flap levers. Maybe one of these has broken? On my car (88 Highline), to remove the section with the slider controls you need...

Pretty much as already suggested, wire brush any loose stuff and then apply something like POR15. I did mines donkey's years ago and rust has never broken back through. And while I guess you can do the same with the rotor edges, I personally wouldn't bother, as in any case it might more readily get ...

I have to admit that I've never had occasion to take apart the heater control unit. However, I think I'm most likely correct in suggesting that the various flaps that direct air to the screen, face and footwell are all mechanical ie controlled via rods and levers via the facia sliders. That being so...

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Isn't it a bit odd that the car is LHD and yet is described as "S812 National Version Great Britain"?

EDITED to add - the description mentions LHD but it isn't!!

In my experience the min thickness is always stamped into the rim of the disc, although often quite difficult to see. On the M6 I think the discs start out at 30mm and I've be surprised if anything below 29mm would be regarded as acceptable. And strictly speaking that measurement should be taken acr...