bigcoupe.com

Well the diff drain and fill plugs are seized on, so I'm assuming the PO never changed the fluid. I've got some PB blaster on them sitting overnight. Will try again tomorrow and maybe hit it with some heat. I do believe the problem is in the diff. I disconnected the half shaft from the hub and the h...

This is what I'm thinking: Both hubs will not turn in the forward direction when trying to turn them by hand. I think if the diff was seized it would not turn in either direction. Being able to spin the driveshaft and have movement from the wheels rules out the diff being the issue. The only thing l...

Interesting developments today.

Pulled the rear brakes and removed parking brake shoes and the rear wheels still refuse to spin forward. However, when I spin the driveshaft by hand, the wheels (or rather, hubs at this point) spin in both directions.

I'm scratching my head just as hard as before.

Hey guys, interesting conundrum. Recently bought another 635csi with plans to replace the motor since the PO said it had a knock. While rolling the car around in the garage, I noticed that it was impossible to roll the car forward. After triple checking that it wasn't in gear and the E brake was not...

Hey guys, my new to me 6er came with Style 32s that the previous owner believed to be reps. I don't know much about the BMW wheels so I pulled these off today while doing a brake job and cleaned them off for a look. They read as 17x8.5 ET13. To my knowledge, true 32s didn't come in this offset. The ...

Sorry for double post but I spaced the throttle blade to .002" and the car idles magnificently smooth...at 1200rpm. And that's with adjusting the TPS as far as it would manage. Initially set the TPS to click off idle, as it did before, but that set the idle at 1750ish rpm. Ohms continued to rea...

you have spent a fortune in both time and money but you don't mention that you have done the very simple (and free) check to make sure that the throttle body is set correctly. I repeat; it is not sufficient to ensure that the TPS is 'working', it is vital that the TB is open the correct amount too....

plip1953 wrote: ↑Sun Oct 21, 2018 12:07 pm Could it be something like a faulty/failed water temp sensor, so the ecu doesn't know to run for a while in cold start mode?

I've replaced the coolant temp sensor. I checked the voltage from the harness side and I'm getting 4.75V which I'm assuming is in spec?

Have you checked the resistance at the crank position/reference sensors? Those are a common culprit and will give fuel but no spark. I'd start there.

I realize I haven't updated this in a long time so let's review what has been checked/replaced: Checked: ICV- In spec, cleaned several times. Thermo-time switch: In spec, 0 ohms and 35 ohms between W/ground and G/ground respectively TPS- Clicks right off idle Cap and Rotor- Newer and in good conditi...

Replaced all the vacuum hoses except the ICV (which I inspected for leaks) and the intake boot itself. There was a small crack in the breather hose off the intake boot but otherwise all were in relatively good shape given their age. Idling the car after the vacuum hose maintenance the car continues ...

you may be experiencing a simple lack of volts somewhere; if the alternator doesn't start charging straight away (which it might not after a start at low engine revs for all kinds of reasons) then the engine will be trying to run on 12V or less rather than 13.8 volts. A dodgy connection somewhere m...

Hello all! I'm very recently new to the 6er world, having just bought my first one last week. It's a 1987 635csi and so far it's been a great car except for the following: Whenever the car is started cold it will idle fine for the first few seconds and then the idle will drop to around 500rpm (somet...