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A digital multimeter set for AC millivolts will give an indication as well as checking for resistance (not sure ohms), but the only definitive test is to test the output on an oscilloscope and look for correct wave form. Do make sure that the sensor is aligned with the correct air gap first though. ...

They are still available from the usual suppliers FCPEuro/Pelican/AutohausAZ etc. You are really better off buying new as opposed to sourcing second hand with this item.

I used simple persistance, and lots of it, a fine set of needle nosed pliers, and a small flat blade screwdriver to manipulate that spring. Place the spring so that you only have to manipulate one leg to get it into final position.

+2 on the carbon airbox (I assume you mean the plenum). I'm about to do the same thing, albeit with an S38B36.

Here you have one of the fundamentals of basic fault finding. Always investigate recent works undertaken :)

Looks like there is movement at the station;

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=4& ... 9&start=50

Yep mounting left side boot is my line of thinking too. I've purchased a marine grade battery box and will be securing this inside a marine ply box lined with appropriate colour marine carpet. It appears that the corner of the firewall and left wheel well would be best positioning.

Excellent info thanks chaps. Ron, I will be making up my own cables. As mine is a standard 635, I don't have a battery box in the boot but will have to engineer one. I'll have to seek a good spot to ground.

OK mate it's certainly been an interesting discussion and in this case, I hope the OPs question has been answered. I am an Electrical Engineer and Electrician of 34 years experience so I stand by the statements made, but I'm out of this one now

My next job on this conversion will be to install the battery into the boot to allow room for S38 intake. Could M6 and M635 owners please give me some idea of the battery cable routing from boot to engine bay ? Secondly, where is the boot mounted battery negative cable actually grounded ?

You know, you can still call him Locutus ya know. :wink: I love that name and yes, you could use a silver euro stripe. Bert Poliakos or whatever prolly has what you need. Yeah I know, but how do I explain to Vinney about the gender change. Was a "he" now a "she". All my cars are...

Headlights finally arrived. Original equipment Hella 4 x H1. Installed and fitted with Narva H1 +100s. Also applied some Xpel headlight protection film from our very own Mr Fixit. Thanks Andrew ! Whilst they may not be Cibie quality, they are twice as bright as the old set. Also took the opportunit...

At the end of the day Brucey there exists no situation on the E24 circuits where those two relays (silver 2 contact and white 1 contact) could not be exchanged in the same function. This I think was one of the OPs questions. Perhaps you could let us know of the "other applications" where t...

I also gave her a rub a dub dub with Poorboys professional polish and sealant. Great stuff that !! Filled in those swirls nicely.

You guys think it would benefit from a silver pin stripe ?

Hehe, thanks Shipper. Getting to the stage now where I have almost all parts required for this conversion. Problem is that my BMW mechanic is flat out at the moment and the hoists are full. It will be a few weeks yet. In other news, the new original Hella headlights arrived yesterday. Fitted them up...

Headlights finally arrived. Original equipment Hella 4 x H1. Installed and fitted with Narva H1 +100s. Also applied some Xpel headlight protection film from our very own Mr Fixit. Thanks Andrew ! Whilst they may not be Cibie quality, they are twice as bright as the old set. Also took the opportunity...

3.07 final drive here 2500rpm/100km/h and loving it matched to the dogleg. It makes 1st somewhat useful :)

Brucey wrote: Note also that the wiring diagram does not accurately represent the internal construction of the relay, i.e. it is wrong.

cheers

The electrical schematics on the side of the relays are accurate, which is what I am referring to.

I think it is more a quality of construction issue. Electrically, those relays are almost identical. That some fail at all, or fail quickly, is probably a quality issue to some extent. But these relays are not electrically identical. They are close enough to one another that they can be substituted...

It would want to be Dave !! :)

The sequence is fairly evident when you start the job. Basically remove all the bolts, remove the lever, remove the pin, remove the C clip by pushing to the rear, slide off lock heater toward centre, remove bar clip, remove bar, remove the lock barrel by turning 90 degrees. The C clip is the killer....

Carbon fibre goodness;

Having some flaking paint and corrosion around the exterior door handle I decided to remove the mechanism for repainting. This is a task best left to when you are in a reasonably good mood, the dog is at relatives (so you do not kick it), the wife is away (so you do not snap at her), and plenty of t...

I think it is more a quality of construction issue. Electrically, those relays are almost identical.

.............but 35K ?

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/detai ... 1017/?Cr=4

Our "V6" powered M 635 is also back on the market..............for 10K !!!

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/deta ... 3857/?Cr=8