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If you suddenly find that many bees then ( in most places, AZ may be different *) they would be honey bees. The bees are just doing what comes naturally; for the species to survive one colony has to be able to turn into several (in any one year any given colony might fail and die out so maintaining ...

In the UK anyway, most bumble bee species are endangered, relatively harmless (they are not aggressive by nature) and furthermore only form small colonies; typically a couple of hundred bees. The usual recommendation is that (if you possibly can) you may was well leave them be; the colony will only ...

isn't it the ignition key for the TARDIS? Dr Who has been looking for that....

cheers

if you want to be sure all the wasps are at home when you introduce insecticide, just do it after sunset; wasps don't normally fly in the dark (although they may be attracted to nearby artificial lights at any time). FWIW if you don't want to use an insecticide -which will kill just about any kind o...

word of warning; 1987 is a changeover year. If your car has chrome bumpers and was built before 6/87 then you need a M30B34 motor and if it is an aluminium -bumpered car (highline) you need an M30B35 engine. They are quite different from one another and whilst it is possible to swap between the two ...

the 'start signal' (Bk/Yl wire which goes to pin 4 for the ECU) also appears at the diagnostic socket (Pin #11, see p101 of 1985 ETM). The most common fault with this is that the connection of this wire (to the starter motor where the signal is derived) goes bad. The ETM (p115) is misleading in that...

I'm on the wrong side of the orb for that I'm afraid. Suggestion; there must be another E24 enthusiast near you who could cast an eye? If someone has a bunch of steering parts (many enthusiasts do) even if they are old ones, they can help identify if yours are really the correct things or not. cheers

I think it will fit with a replacement rear cover, but others will know for sure.

70k motorway miles won't have worn the LSD at all. But a tenth of this mileage 'driven enthusiastically' on twisty roads could have knackered it. I've been surprised in both directions.

cheers

EmperorNero wrote: ↑Fri Oct 18, 2019 9:16 pm
I've performed this test with no luck.

meaning what exactly?

cheers

for front sensors I am getting 34521178981 and 34521178982 (different wire lengths each side I think?) which is not the same as the number you quoted. The date ranges are cobblers; only post 5/82 models were fitted with ABS I think, yet the date range is shown as going back to 1977. 34 52 1 155 709 ...

Hi to all! :D as the title suggests I'd like to replace all four ABS sensors for my 9/86 653CSi.... wow that is a big engine you have got there.... :wink: I'll double check the pns but before you get too excited there may be a problem; in recent times folk have struggled to buy the correct front pa...

they all look a bit the same to me....

cheers

I think that is an E83 (X3), probably with a 3litre diesel engine (M57)…? you will have to revise your signature, Ron! Some versions of the M57 motor make 286bhp..... :shock: Even though according to some "it is the fuel of satan" I have often wondered how an E24 would go with that motor i...

you are sort of correct. However the ignition parts used on US-spec 633CSi are identical to those used on Euro spec cars. Eh? Let me explain; the dates at which the change was made from L-jet to motronic were different depending on the market the car was made for. US-spec 633CSi changed from L-jet t...

from your description it might be that the foam just isn't strong enough to glue to any more? Or was the brown powder rust, in fact?

Did you take any more photos of the failed joint?

cheers

it looks like a) your sensors are good and b) that you don't quite understand how to use a DVM. BTW you should be absolutely certain that you reconnect the sensors properly; if you inadvertently exchange the positions the car won't go. FWIW you could randomly check every single part on the car until...

I would like, for the sake of elimination, that the CSI fuel line be disconnected and the electrical connection to the valve be disconnected, then several starts attempted. If it fires more than once, it's not the CSI. Pressure after one start would be nonexistent, and fuel wouldn't get past the in...

It occurs to me that if the CSV fuel hose is disconnected from the fuel rail, there will still be fuel in the line to the CSV. When the CSV opens (during cranking) there isn't anything like the same pressure across the injector as normal, but there will still be still some rather than none, so that ...

if the engine won't run for 'more than a couple of seconds' then this is symptomatic of a no-start issue, and this isn't necessarily related to the high idle speed fault. I'd therefore try a lot of the usual no start things before going much further. If the car fires on cranking and runs for a coupl...

FWIW using some (many ) adhesives is a bit like painting; good prep is vital. I suspect that Song's somewhat premature repeat peeling may be down to insufficiently good prep. It is a long time (over nine years) since I did my speaker covers and I wouldn't say there is no peeling at all, but they are...

blocking off the brake servo vacuum pipe shouldn't cause the engine to run badly but of course it will stop the brakes from working properly. If the idle is at 3000rpm, something is letting 3000rpm's worth of air into the engine. This is quite a big air leak into the inlet manifold or a fault in the...

the big brass screw is an adjustable bypass. The idle control and bypass arrangements vary on early motronic from later ones. BTW as I mentioned above, adjusting the TPS is a complete waste of time (actually, its worse than that it is counterproductive) unless you set the TB correctly beforehand to ...

you were right to look for air leaks; there is only one way the idle speed can be too high and that is if there is too much air getting into the engine. The fuel pressure should reduce when the engine is running at idle; it should be constant (2.5 bar or 3.0bar depending on model) w.r.t. the inlet m...

its certainly exactly the wrong time of year to be selling a car like that....

cheers

the perch ought to slide up the shock body, whether the spring is attached to it or not. However if the spring is not compressed evenly (i.e. so the perch is cocked) then this may prevent the perch from moving easily.


cheers