bigcoupe.com

If the paint is there, but oxidized you should buy a rotary polisher and learn to use it on this car. If it's a pile and already hosed, then you have nothing to lose and great experience to gain. Why pay a detailer several hundreds for one buff/wax/polish when you can learn to do it with the right e...

Also check to see if there is a vacuum leak around the intake trace, the oil cap and the oil dispstick. Vacuum is very affective on this engine. My M won't idle steady with the dipstick part way out.

Jose

Good to know it could be reproduced, Klaus. I might have to track down a spare dash and have that one re-done. Mine has that doggone bowing at the right lower corner of the dash. It's still in good enough shape that I can't justify just tearing it all out, though.

Jose

Agreed, Chris.

However, don't most of us lower the car and end up needing to add back in positive camber to get the geometry right? Make some adjustable positive camber plates that will do 1/2 to 3/4 degree increase and I'm in. But it has to work with stock diameter springs.

Jose

Bumping this thread back into the limelight. My M is there now, too. I am thinking of making up some business cards with this site, bimmerforum and the M registry all listed to put under the wiper of any 6 or M that I see. Just for giggles, ya know?

Jose

Be forewarned. You MUST feed that leather at least three times a year with something like Luxol, or it will shrink and warp things. There was a "customer service" replacement done on US spec. M6's with leather dashes for that very reason. Mine still has leather and I am dealing with issues...

When you start dealing with specialty shops that also race, it seems you start getting a hobbyist mentality in some ways. Because they are enthusiasts, it seems that special projects will get priority. On top of that, as specialists they get inundated with work that not everyone can do. Hey, that's ...

Best mileage my old 240Z got was at 115 for a couple of hours. Went further on less gas than I ever did at slower speds.

Jose

Yes, it's Portuguese. Notice the .br (Brazil) on the end of the address as well.

Jose

Good work Jay.

Jose

Keep it simple. Put a test light on the + terminal at the horn while an assistant pushes the horn button. If you have a light, it's good. If you don't, work your way back to the relay as mentioned before see if there is power getting out.

Jose

Be absolutely sure these guys have a history of great work. My brother had to replace the block when he owned my M, because a previous repair shop might have re-assembled without blowing out liquid from the head bolt holes. That was a $2000 cost on the block, never mind the labor.

Jose

Well, I will admit some of this is conjecture on my part. I haven't fitted a set of these, only talked to guys who fitted them onto their 02's when I was going to go this route. If I didn't have an M, I would just go ahead and brace/slot the existing tabs of my subframe. That means minimal tear down...

You can weld them over the existing tabs. The outer is mounted with the slot left-right and the inner is mounted with the slot up-down. You then grind the existing tab to match the slots and now you can adjust the camber and castor of the rear independently. I think you can dial in 2 degrees of posi...

That looks freaking great Winfred. I completely forgot about the spark plug wire trick. You have recommended what I think is a FANTASTIC solution for shadowlining your windshield. When the time comes to replace my windshield I am absolutely stealing your idea and claiming it as my own. :wink: Jose

I would not just pull up on the switches. My seat switch comes right out, but all these switches are intended to bite on the underside of the console. I think when you just pulled up on them, they don' bite as hard as they ought to anymore. You really should unscrew the center console and pinch the ...

I think the green stripes mean stock and the red mean HD. At least it was that way on my 02 and those Germans are pretty good at standardization.

Jose

Alright young man, you speak like someone willing to spend some time and money to get the proper and desired effect. I recommend you contact someone like Korman and ask about complete packages. If you want to piece stuff together, I am quite happy with my Bilstein Sport and Eibach combo. You will al...

You're very welcome. Makes it loads easier when dealing with a shim over bucket setup. If I was trying to build up a kit that might have everything I need to do my valves, what shim collection would you recommend? I plan on buying the engine turning tool, bucket depressor and making a ramp system th...

Wasn't that "Treasure of the Sierra Madre"?

Jose

Hey guys, I am attaching an excel worksheet that I used for adjusting the valves on my 16V Honda. It is modified to work for an S38/M88. You enter the measured lash (gap) and the existing shim. Then the worksheet calculates what size shim you need to get the desired setting. You can change the desir...

I don't necessarily care for that M1 tribute, but did you see the new Alpina
B6?

Jose

Nowadays, I would recommend wire snot along with cotton line for seating your gasket. The snot is a water based lubricant used when pulling wiring through long sections of conduit. It is non-reactive and you can spray the seam with water to remove residue when you are done. Seat the gasket and then ...

Interesting, I'll need to remember this bit of info. as my windshield has a chip which probably will mean replacement.

Jose

Really? I am used to that silver strip being called a locking strip and there is usually a special tool designed to lift the lips and allow you to seat that lock strip. You NEED the tool and you usually can't reuse a gasket as it hardens and the tool ends up breaking bits off.

Jose