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Thanks for your precious help Baders! :D So I finally determined which is which, I also made a (risky) attempt at jumping together the two that are not ground in an attempt to bypass the middle slider (outside air), but unfortunately the A/C still doesn't come on (no light on switch) :(, already che...

Danny. It is a potentiometer so you can test it with a multimeter. Unfortunately the BMW diagram does not represent the pot properly but you should still be able to test. One leg is voltage in (12v?), one leg is ground, and the third is the wiper output to the control unit. Thanks Baders, wow I rea...

Hi guys, sorry to bump :oops:, but I really can't figure out which two wires I should jump in the outside air sliding potentiometer (the central slider on the HVAC panel). As you can see in the post above, there is a mismatch in number and wire color between my 6 and the BMW ETM for 1986, if I make ...

- Thanks Pod , by actuating rod trow you mean the one that comes out of the slave cylinder? As a matter of fact the slave cylinder was the first thing I replaced a month ago, would it make any sense since it happens only on a hot engine? Concerning the clutch pedal I must admit I didn't know that it...

Hi guys, now I'm trying to jump the connector of the middle slider hoping that that's causing the A/C problem, but unfortunately the colour coding and number of the wires on my car do not match the 1986 ETM manual . Do you think I just should follow the wire color in my car and jump GN/BU and GN/BR ...

Thanks Pod , just checked today but no air seems to be in the system, I also changed the transmission fluid as a last ditch attempt but nothing changed.
I guess I'll wait and see if it worsens, then I'll post more results...
thanks
Danny

err :oops: .. Maybe I've been a little too optimistic, issue is back again :shock:, I guess the master cylinder was bad anyway because the problem had disappeared for some time and was a contributory cause because now seems slightly less hard, but it's happening again, on a hot engine , it's intermi...

Hi guys! :D It started as an intermittent issue, air con not starting and light not turning on on switch, once it did start the system worked ok. Lately it has completely stopped turning on. And even if I do not press the air con switch, if I open the middle slider it produces no air, if I turn the ...

Well, finally managed to change the master cylinder and it looks like that that was the culprit, working fine now! Only the reverse is a bit hard to insert but that's always been so....
thanks guys!!
Danny

I guess you're right dwcains thanks ... Just ordered a Bosch master cylinder, as soon as I get it replaced I'll post the results!
Hoping the issue is not my 2 years old clutch kit

Thanks dwcains! as a matter of fact I found some interesting prices on Ebay, original oem BMW master cylinder is around €200, since I'm not sure that that's the issue I guess I'll go for the cheaper one this time :roll: … By the way it's pretty confusing out there, always thought that Febi Bilstein ...

dwcains wrote:Have you checked the pedal assembly for a crack? This reinforcement is something I think all our cars should have:

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=103670

thanks dwcains, already checked that

Brucey, dwcains and Pod thanks for your support! :D I think I might have been a bit too hasty :mrgreen: and directly replaced the slave with a new BMW one (€130, came in plastic :shock:), but the issue is still there… It happens only on a hot engine when I'm at a traffic light, if the car is moving ...

Hi guys, would really appreciate your advice on this :-? … Lately I've been experiencing some intermittent issues with the 1st gear (2nd and reverse also some times), in most of the occurrences it's just hard to move it in or out of the gears, at times it just won't engage, and more rarely it has gr...

the U joints should align in a specific way between the front and the rear sections of the propshaft. IIRC there is an even number of splines so in theory there are two 'basically correct' positions for the splined joint. However; - if the prop has been balanced in one orientation, it won't be bala...

my understanding is that if you replace the swivel cruciforms etc it is pretty much mandatory to rebalance the propshaft. If you have not done that, I'd suggest that you do so. The reason is that there may be a tiny offset in the positions of the parts once they are replaced. BTW it certainly is po...

thanks for your support!! :-) Well… this is quite embarrassing :oops: , we partially unbolted the flex disk to check and it looks like it's been mounted correctly all the time, he must have corrected it's position AFTER I took the earlier pics above…. #-o sorry guys! Needles to say of course that th...

Dear Brucey, sorry to bump :oops:... but I really can't figure out this vibration between 1500 and 2400 rpm :?:, everything's new in the propshaft… when you have a minute can you take a look at the pics above and see if the guibo, as suggested by you, has been mounted the right way round? thanks a m...

So your problems are all fixed now? It was the propshaft damper? Mine is an auto so it has no propshaft damper, but thanks for the suggestion. Nick The shot damper was the cause of the vibrations at 120 and 60Km/h, but I still got this pretty obvious vibration at low speed between 1500 and 2400 rmp...

FWIW it is possible (easy in fact...) to install the guibo the wrong way round. This can create all kinds of weird vibrations that are sensitive to the torque in the drivetrain too. Worth double checking this! Also, apologies if this is obvious, but if the gearbox mountings are in bad shape, this c...

Well, as usual, you nailed it Brucey thanks!!!!! =D> =D> =D> Finally managed to replace the propshaft damper, guibo, centre bearing, centring bush and both swivel joints , the damper in particular was pretty shot, and both vibrations at 60 and 120 Km/h have disappeared!!!!! \:D/ but… #-o It now has ...

Brucey thanks for such an in depth analysis, I will get all those areas checked
Sorry if I repeat myself , have you ever heard that strange sound coming from the rear?

http://web.tiscali.it/webspace7/635_rum ... rtenza.mp3

wow Brucey thanks! that was a quick answer! :D 1) the tyres (and/or wheels) are not round will get it checked 2) the wheel balance still isn't correct; (most likely because the flat spots were not run out of the tyres before they were balanced; my advice is to drive about 20 miles, then jack the car...

Hi all! I wonder if anyone can be so kind of giving me some advice on this :D I had a vibration problem at 60 and 120 Km/h so I replaced the following: front axle: L&R thrust rods, L&R wishbones, L&R stabiliser links, center and L&R side steering rods, the steering idler arm rear axl...

Thanks Hornhospital, I think I'll take the risk and go, my full responsibility

just got an extra starter drive with an express shipping and will take it with me just in case