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Hi all, I've got a bit of an oddball spare engine that I'm using for the supercharger project - it appears to be a 91 Hartge H35 head (albeit with Schrick cam) stuck on a standard Highline (i.e. late Euro E24 B35) lower end. I'm going on various receipts and the fact the inlet valves are definitely ...

I have these in PS4 flavour on the six, front and rear with 8" ET20 style 5s on the front (from an E39) and ET10 on the rear (from an E31). I went with these using a conversion from the 225/50r16 size that I've always used - 235/45R17 come out a bit bigger, for what it's worth: +1.6% compared t...

Good work! scraped knuckles and swearing mandatory in my experience!

Also (and Ron taught me this), open the rear windows to make it a whole lot easier.

Like Phil says, readily available.

I got mine from Reluctorrings.

I've replaced three sets on various E24s, often failing through having cracked which is not immediately obvious from a visual inspection when the teeth all look good.

I blanked this off on my M with a piece of threaded bar inserted into the hose with a jubilee clip on the outside for peace of mind (not that it can go anywhere!)

They fit the mounting studs no problem, and the ports are the same iirc, but the E34 bay is a different shape - wider. I bought a rhd set years ago to try to fit to my M given the shortcomings of the rhd manifold, but it was never going to fit. I should imagine the lhd S38 manifold is different, of ...

Beautiful car and beautiful place, Don. So glad you've got there after so much messing around and extra work.

Not unusually tall, but long body and short legs, a bit like the Lego Yoda, seen holding a very rusty sill in the picture!

All the above, plus the fun of burning Waxoyl! I'm sure your garage will have their own ways of doing things, but I found that cutting out the seat mounting rails and part of the rear seat mount allowed very easy access to the straight run of the inner sill/floorpan edge. It also allowed me to cut 1...

Glad you got it sorted!

Those chrome caps look great - nice one.

Looking through from above, you'll see the rollers: a bit of wiggling and you'll see the channels they engage with on the top side of the trim panel.

Give it a wiggle!

Apologies, there is a fantastic diagnostic printable table to check the harness connector to the ECU that I have failed to find - perfect to make sure all of the signal inputs are doing their thing. I'll keep digging, but perhaps someone else knows what I'm talking about. It sounds like you've done ...

No idea about Eldorado's scheme for a better brace, but a couple of observations: W&N brace fouled the throttle cable mount on my M635. They make topping up the oil on M30'd cars difficult All the braces readily available have hinged joints either end and it's my feeling that old sixers could do...

I always found this job an absolute pain - maybe it's easier on the late cars, but I ended up trying a different approach which was to tilt the sunroof all the way up. Looking through the gap, you can see the rollers that allow the trim to tilt up at the same time as the lid, too. It's pretty easy t...

Do have a good look at the checklist - not sure you've checked "everything". those sensors (two of them) are likely culprits, but easy to rule out. Have you checked the coil is generating a spark by removing king lead? is the distributor cap/rotor then doing the business with the spark? ht...

This is for a B35 head. Possibly a ported and polished Hartge head, if that makes any difference. Left to my own devices I'd use .30mm cold (0.012"), inlet and exhaust as per the B34 gap recommended in the Bentley manual (what I always use). I found a bimmerforums post that recommends slightly ...

Something I just found, having snapped off the slider tangs in past attempts, is that you can drill out the (x2) rivets underneath the bottom-left arrow in the pic which allows the whole panel to pull out. bowden cables easy to slip on/off with appropriate position of the levers. That Alpina digital...

Like Ralph says - I've got one good one out of four spares, and that was from an M90! There is supposed to be an advantage with head cooling using the B34 arrangement, but like all these internet things, it is anecdotal rather than empirically proven. Common sense suggests that the outlet at the bac...

I think I know what the difference is Phil - the B35's system has the outlet at the rear of the head blanked off. You need to replace the blank with the "goose neck" from the back of the B34 head. As I understand it, this will allow the rest of the B34 cooling system to fit right up. Obvio...

Thank you so much, Phil, so generous of you. This is brilliant - nicely made and feels so much better than the plastic. They must be using a mould from the original- it’s identical.

I didn't realise that they should close completely. Yes, that makes sense - I used the bypass adjustment to bring the idle down to a sensible level on startup with the M valve - that's why it wouldn't run right when warm. Thanks again. Stoffie - if your M is a Euro, it should have the same number as...

Has anyone got a spare? I drove one of Ron's cars a while back and I'm missing that leathery feel!!!! Otherwise, has anyone got any experience of j-f-customs on ebay.co.uk? This is only £30-odd. I've got a spare E34 lever, hoping I could use the end bit, but it is a bit more involved and damage indu...

Thank you, Jubilados, that's really helpful. I know what you mean about the apparent interchangeability, but I was running like a bag of nails at idle with the M valve (in full working order) - a rich-running bag of nails that smelled of petrol, too! I'll try the freezer trick, would be nice to have...