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If your heater control is on full cold and your heater valve is working properly this should be regulating the water flow through your heater core. The new "BMW" heater valve I purchased was not good. http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=31277&p=223549&hilit=heater+va...

Stumbled across this new stand-alone ECU install. Parts 1-3 with dyno tuning still to come Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Os32sOzAxms Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zpT-qdydTM Part 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFEkzIq08Sk Overview: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovp2sMvT-JU

These should answer your questions

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=30996&p=222581&hil ... il#p222581

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=25840&p=184308&hil ... il#p184308

I've got a couple of these https://goodnature.co.nz/products/a24-rat-stoat as every winter they invade the woodpile and have got in under the roof space before, and we no longer have a cat. They are NZ made, but you may have something similar. They automatically reset, with bait and gas cylinder las...

See below, posts from Brucey and Ron http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4875&p=33163&hilit=removing+mirror+glass#p33163 I did this a few years ago. You have to be a bit brutal and careful at the same time. I used a putty knife. Be careful not to damage the rubber boot. You'll...

Basically I followed the instructions for the 3M 90 adhesive. I didn't remove the hood, but covered everything I didn't want adhesive on. Sprayed both surfaces (one section at a time) and let dry until tacky - just a few minutes, and of course with any contact adhesive line up carefully before apply...

Have a look at these products by CorrosionX, specified by a number of high end reel manufacturers. Have good adhesion properties.

https://www.corrosionx.com/products/reelx

https://www.corrosionx.com/collections/ ... cts/speedx

You could go for something like this (hydro dipping) https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/showt ... ?t=1511221

Nice wheels. I think shadow chrome would look better on your car but is very subjective.

Under hood liner http://www.classic9leathershop.com/bonn ... s-for-bmw/ (good stuff)

The spring return was buggered in mine and I couldn't get a definitive answer on what needed replacing so replaced both the switch and the ignition lock barrel (swapped over the cylinder). From memory the spring return is in the switch. Either way it's not too difficult a job but painful. If no one'...

I recall reading discussions about all this when I changed mine years ago. I believe Chris Wright detailed the various transistors but can't seem to search on his posts now, however came across this, which may be of help. Post by ScottAndrews » Mon Mar 14, 2005 5:33 am There is a lot of confusion ab...

Type spax into the search box at the top. Haven't read them but a number of posts.

Good job Regarding the door boots. I replaced mine some time ago - had to buy the whole door loom. The thing with these is the transition sections to the rectangular shaped flanges aren't stiff enough, and collapse, resulting in the flange continually pulling out of the door post - had to bond them ...

There's plenty of heat shielding products around, like here. https://www.heatshieldproducts.co.nz/header-armor.html The header armour is easy to work with and mould to shape. I've seen plenty used on race cars to shield hydraulic reservoirs and had an AU Falcon with a factory exhaust manifold shield...

See attached (n0t mine) which gives some guidelines on what to expect with varying levels of modification and relative investment. I have a modified Euro B34 doing 214 at the wheels on a dyno dynamics rolling road (250-260 at fly) - 10.6:1 comp - 284 schrick cam, schrick springs, titanium retainers,...

There were a bunch of logo designs posted on here a few years ago.....somewhere

Be happy! M90s are notorious for burning head gaskets between the cylinders where they are thinner than the m30b34. Ask me how I know. :)

This must be what Jeremy Walton refers to in his book when talking about the development of the M30b34

Hopefully you can open both attached pdf's

These are the identifying marks of a supposed M30 I purchased turned out to be a M90. Actually had M90 embossed on front end of head

Before you panic too much check it hasn't come from the power steer reservoir, which can happen if overfilled and the car not run for a few weeks or more. It will likely run along the chassis rail and drip to ground somewhere around the centre of the cross member.

Hi Gaz. Weclome back, you've been missing a while. Baders, I have the rear K Macs - they do a good job of correcting the rear camber squat with Bilstein sports / H&R's, but do stiffen things up a bit. Replaced the below tyres late last year - 255/40/17 on 9" RC ET22 rims with 15mm spacers. ...

That is eye-opening, particularly the f/r baseline. I always thought that the E24s were closer to 50/50 balanced front to rear. I weighed mine over Police weigh station (rolling) scales in Jan. All up weight including me (89Kg) + full tank fuel - 30km travel + circa 10kg crap in boot (besides spare...

Looks bloody good

If you're not bothered about noise then the world's your oyster When I got my car the exhaust was rooted, so for a while - year or so, I ran with a single 2 into 1 edelbrock central muffler, back to twin pipes out the end. It was raucus and a hoot on short trips, would set off car alarms in narrow s...

I've tried the JB weld 2 part mix before and is quite liquid - takes a while to cure and won't hang up in that location. I would think a putty would be more suitable; just did a quick search so something like this https://www.motoquipe.co.nz/buy/jb-j-b-weld-automotive-steelstik-steel-reinforced/JB8267