Search found 10019 matches
- Wed Nov 27, 2019 12:11 am
- Forum: Exterior
- Topic: stuck door!
- Replies: 18
- Views: 14229
Re: stuck door!
after much wailing and gnashing of teeth I finally managed to gain entry, without breaking anything. I would never have guessed at the correct shape rod unless I have another door internal to look at, and furthermore when used as intended, it turned out the rod changed shape, so that it needed reset...
- Sat Nov 23, 2019 9:13 am
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: M6 E24 Engine cuts suddenly
- Replies: 2
- Views: 2540
Re: M6 E24 Engine cuts suddenly
it could be one of several things but this behaviour is exactly consistent with a failing main relay.
cheers
cheers
- Fri Nov 22, 2019 8:38 pm
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: More sensors - which ones are these...?
- Replies: 6
- Views: 4911
Re: More sensors - which ones are these...?
a good way of testing for air leaks is to (carefully) introduce a fuel external to the inlet manifold at tickover; this might be lighter fuel or gas from a cartridge; anything that you can direct to a specific location really. When the fuel is sucked in a misfire may disappear and the at the least t...
- Fri Nov 22, 2019 2:51 pm
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: More sensors - which ones are these...?
- Replies: 6
- Views: 4911
Re: More sensors - which ones are these...?
one of the wires will be the oil level sensor but the others I'm not sure about. The sensors that make your B35 engine run are a) the front crank sensor and b) the cam phase sensor (on one of the plug leads) these don't normally go bad when the engine warms up but you never know. Some common causes ...
- Tue Nov 19, 2019 11:29 pm
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: missing sensor?
- Replies: 2
- Views: 2254
Re: missing sensor?
standard feature on that vintage of 6er; if you find out what it is for do let us know!
cheers
cheers
- Tue Nov 19, 2019 11:25 pm
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: Damaged sensor ID - Thermo time?
- Replies: 2
- Views: 2152
Re: Damaged sensor ID - Thermo time?
you have got no 7th injector and no thermotime switch on an E24 with the M30B35 motor fitted (~7/87 onwards). Check the wire colours against the wiring diagram to be sure but I think the two contacts in that fitting are a) the sender for the temperature gauge in the dashboard and b) the switch for a...
- Tue Nov 19, 2019 11:14 pm
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: More sensors - which ones are these...?
- Replies: 6
- Views: 4911
Re: More sensors - which ones are these...?
Your photos are not super clear (not least because they are on photophuckit and to the rest of the world have a stupid and highly obtrusive watermark on them) . If you want to get familiar with your motor there are three ways you can do it 1) Look in an online ETK (realoem or BMWfans perhaps); this ...
- Mon Nov 18, 2019 3:09 am
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: No fuel injector pulse?
- Replies: 5
- Views: 3919
Re: No fuel injector pulse?
the speed and position sensors give different voltages when you use a DVM because the former creates a continuous series of pulses and the latter generates a single pulse per crank revolution. If you want to test them properly then you ought to use an oscilloscope, but that they measure the correct ...
- Sun Nov 17, 2019 2:29 pm
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: No fuel injector pulse?
- Replies: 5
- Views: 3919
Re: No fuel injector pulse?
IIRC the 008 ECU was used on non-cat motronic 633CSi from sept 1981. Maybe you answered this in a previous post but -when cranking, have you got the 'start' signal at pin 4 on the ecu…? If not this disables the motronic system; I can't remember offhand if it disables both spark and fuel or just one ...
- Sat Nov 16, 2019 5:45 pm
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: Battery drain issue solved!
- Replies: 2
- Views: 2127
Re: Battery drain issue solved!
series 1 cars have a different set of problems; series 2 cars usually have a ~60mA parasitic drain from the circuit that charges the SI batteries.
cheers
cheers
- Fri Nov 15, 2019 9:57 pm
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: Electric fan - radiator cooling
- Replies: 2
- Views: 2189
Re: Electric fan - radiator cooling
if you unplug the wires from the sensor (which I think is on the RHS of the radiator and has three wires on your car; earlier ones are different) you can connect the wires using a jumper and the fan should work at both speeds. Alternatively you can put a jumper in place of the relay (s) and test the...
- Thu Nov 14, 2019 11:57 pm
- Forum: Interior
- Topic: Heater valve repair
- Replies: 20
- Views: 14350
Re: Heater valve repair
https://www.amazon.com/MTC-3065-Mercede ... B00BCR2Y0E
shows as $16.83 plus $5.14 shipping, no taxes, when I enter 'ship to Australia'.
cheers
shows as $16.83 plus $5.14 shipping, no taxes, when I enter 'ship to Australia'.
cheers
- Thu Nov 14, 2019 1:53 pm
- Forum: My Project
- Topic: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
- Replies: 63
- Views: 46438
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
thanks for the reply. Yes it certainly is challenging and there are complex issues. FWIW if there is a bad fuel smell from the exhaust when the car starts this is usually caused by overfuelling when the car is cold. One of my mad plans is to have momentary action switches to run the fuel pump and ma...
- Thu Nov 14, 2019 9:34 am
- Forum: Interior
- Topic: Heater valve repair
- Replies: 20
- Views: 14350
Re: Heater valve repair
IIRC the 'no heat at speed' symptom is usually a small leak in the diaphragm. At low engine speeds the valve can work even if there is a little damage, but at higher (engine) speed the flow conditions in the valve change and any tiny fault is more apparent. FWIW the valve works on the pilot principl...
- Wed Nov 13, 2019 10:59 am
- Forum: Interior
- Topic: Heater valve repair
- Replies: 20
- Views: 14350
Re: Heater valve repair
my POV on this is that the MTC kit is so cheap it is worth a punt. You definitely need to reassemble the valve with all the same parts as it came with originally, which means yes you need the washers etc if the kit comes without them. I've seen more valves that have been 'repaired' badly than I have...
- Wed Nov 13, 2019 10:44 am
- Forum: My Project
- Topic: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
- Replies: 63
- Views: 46438
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
I appreciate your point of view but I didn't post my project here to get into a debate about justifying electrical transportation. I've been involved with electric cars since the early nineties and have heard every argument similar to what you have made and many others. I have no idea why you would...
- Tue Nov 12, 2019 11:50 pm
- Forum: My Project
- Topic: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
- Replies: 63
- Views: 46438
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
in terms of saving the planet, maybe it would have been better to have started with a 6er that was more of a basket case. OK those parts you don't need will hopefully see another life, but even so. If you only drive 25mph on your commute then probably there is another way of doing it (like cycling) ...
- Mon Nov 11, 2019 11:19 am
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: Heater Won't Blow Hot
- Replies: 4
- Views: 3144
Re: Heater Won't Blow Hot
the first thing I would do to check that the heater valve is signalled to be 'open' when you want it to be hot. With the ignition on the valve should click (not very loudly, you won't hear it inside the car) when the heater dial is turned between hot and cold. If this doesn't happen there is a fault...
- Mon Nov 11, 2019 11:05 am
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: Fuse 23 Blows Instantly
- Replies: 3
- Views: 2888
Re: Fuse 23 Blows Instantly
you may be able to track down the fault by simply disconnecting sections of the wiring harness selectively; preferably this would be by disconnecting plugs but if push comes to shove you will have to cut wires (in places where they can be rejoined easily of course). Another route is to use a bit of ...
- Sun Nov 10, 2019 8:13 pm
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: brake warning at 3000 rpm
- Replies: 8
- Views: 4642
Re: brake warning at 3000 rpm
…. The ABS light on my 635CSi comes on occasionally at about 15mph but not always. Sometimes when I shut the car off and restart it the light goes out and stays out for days. .... The Jag had been doing exactly the same thing for a long time. Interestingly the jag's toothy wheels were entirely corr...
- Sat Nov 09, 2019 2:00 pm
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: brake warning at 3000 rpm
- Replies: 8
- Views: 4642
Re: brake warning at 3000 rpm
Brucey, Years ago I had the high speed problem and replacing the hubs solved the problem, they were just too rusty. Then a few years ago when I got to about 15 mph, no wheel spin just normal take off the light went on. Wound up being the front right sensor. yes, it makes sense and is also what I've...
- Fri Nov 08, 2019 10:39 pm
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: brake warning at 3000 rpm
- Replies: 8
- Views: 4642
Re: brake warning at 3000 rpm
if the ABS light comes on at about 75-80mph then it normally indicates that one of the rear sensors is failed or at least the rear sensors are not sending 'clean' signals (eg because the toothy rings are not perfect, or there is too much rust on the sensor, which is magnetic). I suspect that at lowe...
- Thu Nov 07, 2019 1:14 am
- Forum: Interior
- Topic: First Aid Box Position
- Replies: 9
- Views: 7053
Re: First Aid Box Position
If you have rear seat headrests, the first aid kit sits perfectly into the compartment under the hinged flap. It doesn't matter if you have headrests or not, there is a hinged flap and a storage area beneath. If however you have the premium audio speaker pods things are a bit different. The LH cubb...
- Thu Nov 07, 2019 12:04 am
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: No Start - Cranking - No Fuel - No Spark
- Replies: 13
- Views: 7228
Re: No Start - Cranking - No Fuel - No Spark
if you have volts at one fuel pump and not the other, it most likely means that the wiring (at the back of the car) is faulty, since they are fed by the same wire and should both run at the same time.
cheers
cheers
- Wed Nov 06, 2019 11:46 pm
- Forum: Engine - Mechanical - Electrical
- Topic: Locking in Battery
- Replies: 1
- Views: 1491
Re: Locking in Battery
did you get the correct battery? The correct one has a flange at the base. If the battery is the wrong size and/or lacks the flange at the base, the clamp can't possibly work as intended. A typical BMW battery with flange at the base; https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/6MEAAOSw7ilci9tW/s-l300.jpg cheers