Seeking advice: 1983 633csi
Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 4:09 am
I am new to the forum - have been reading up on 6-series coupes and this forum is a great resource. I am hoping to get some collective advice from the group. I am not sure if I'm posting this topic in the right area (moderator, feel free to move me out if I should be elsewhere ).
I guess my main question is: Would you pay $6k for a 1983 633csi (USA spec) with zero maintenance history?
BACKGROUND
Earlier this summer, I started to keep an eye on ebay/craigslist/BAT/etc for a potential fair weather daily driver. I am considering E24/E28/E30 but the E24 is most appealing...love the lines of the E24 and feels like I can get the most 'bang for your buck' with a E24 in the current market for 1st/2nd gen BMW's. I have some flex in my budget but would like to keep it below $8k for a sorted driver (could go higher for something exceptional). I came across a 1983 633csi near me on CL; it's the first one I have been able to test drive and check out in-person. Here are my observations...
SPECS
1983 633csi (USA spec 5 spd) unknown miles (odometer stuck on 79k). VIN search indicates that the odometer claimed at 75k in 2000 but unclear if it was already stuck at that point. No title issues. Hennarot exterior with black interior. Zero maintenance history. Current owner acquired it last year in a trade; he has stored it indoors but not driven it much. Price is $6k firm.
INTERIOR
Black leather seats are in pretty good shape. No cracks in seats. Front cushion padding is worn expected for its age. A couple seat seams are coming undone but presentable and suspect it would be easy to refinish the seats. Dash is cracked in multiple places and would need to be covered/refinished/replaced. Area behind rear seats on the rear deck is peeling up but otherwise not cracked. No sign of water in the interior (including glove box, truck). Aftermarket radio but otherwise unmolested interior. I liked the manual seats (vs. powered seats in latter models).
EXTERIOR/BODY
Paint is tired but presentable at a distance. I was surprised that there is only one relatively small rust spot on the passenger rear wheel well (inside the lip of the wheel well, just under 4 inches long and not rusted through or bubbling on the exterior of the panel). Shock towers, spare tire well, door sill/rocker all look solid. I didn't have the car on a lift but I was expecting more visible rust from a car that has lived its life in Maryland + Ohio. I hate rust which is a problem living in the Midwest and having a soft spot for 1970/80's automobiles.
MECHANICALS
Started and drove relatively well. No alarming smoke or obvious leaks. Temp never above half on the gauge. No idiot lights once it warmed up. I did notice a high idle (1200-1500) when warmed up (vacuum leak?) and the center yellow '!' light flashed a few times when I started it up (I believe it went off when I tapped the accelerator). Some noise shifting into 2nd and 3rd when warmed up and under power (clutch slave? worse?) but went through the gears otherwise without incident. Steering and braking was straight and uneventful. Fun car to drive even with the USA spec low compression 3.2L.
ELECTRICALS
Front passenger up window button requires repeated pushing to get it to work. A/C blows but no cold air. Power mirrors don't work. Sunroof works. Test button lit up all the warning lights which all went off when I let go of the button. Aforementioned broken odometer. Engine bay shows no sign of electrical or other 'shadetree' modifications.
Thoughts? I would need to have a mechanic really go over it but the seller is stuck on $6k which feels a bit steep for a 633 with no maintenance history. Some of the issues I feel comfortable tackling myself (e.g. odometer; window switch) with the help of this forum and other resources but I would want a mechanic to help me understand what I'm getting myself into. $6k feels like a decent deal if any issues are minor but wouldn't feel so great if I'm immediately pouring money into the car to resolve serious issues that I might not have the time/ability to tackle. Any advice would be most appreciated.
I guess my main question is: Would you pay $6k for a 1983 633csi (USA spec) with zero maintenance history?
BACKGROUND
Earlier this summer, I started to keep an eye on ebay/craigslist/BAT/etc for a potential fair weather daily driver. I am considering E24/E28/E30 but the E24 is most appealing...love the lines of the E24 and feels like I can get the most 'bang for your buck' with a E24 in the current market for 1st/2nd gen BMW's. I have some flex in my budget but would like to keep it below $8k for a sorted driver (could go higher for something exceptional). I came across a 1983 633csi near me on CL; it's the first one I have been able to test drive and check out in-person. Here are my observations...
SPECS
1983 633csi (USA spec 5 spd) unknown miles (odometer stuck on 79k). VIN search indicates that the odometer claimed at 75k in 2000 but unclear if it was already stuck at that point. No title issues. Hennarot exterior with black interior. Zero maintenance history. Current owner acquired it last year in a trade; he has stored it indoors but not driven it much. Price is $6k firm.
INTERIOR
Black leather seats are in pretty good shape. No cracks in seats. Front cushion padding is worn expected for its age. A couple seat seams are coming undone but presentable and suspect it would be easy to refinish the seats. Dash is cracked in multiple places and would need to be covered/refinished/replaced. Area behind rear seats on the rear deck is peeling up but otherwise not cracked. No sign of water in the interior (including glove box, truck). Aftermarket radio but otherwise unmolested interior. I liked the manual seats (vs. powered seats in latter models).
EXTERIOR/BODY
Paint is tired but presentable at a distance. I was surprised that there is only one relatively small rust spot on the passenger rear wheel well (inside the lip of the wheel well, just under 4 inches long and not rusted through or bubbling on the exterior of the panel). Shock towers, spare tire well, door sill/rocker all look solid. I didn't have the car on a lift but I was expecting more visible rust from a car that has lived its life in Maryland + Ohio. I hate rust which is a problem living in the Midwest and having a soft spot for 1970/80's automobiles.
MECHANICALS
Started and drove relatively well. No alarming smoke or obvious leaks. Temp never above half on the gauge. No idiot lights once it warmed up. I did notice a high idle (1200-1500) when warmed up (vacuum leak?) and the center yellow '!' light flashed a few times when I started it up (I believe it went off when I tapped the accelerator). Some noise shifting into 2nd and 3rd when warmed up and under power (clutch slave? worse?) but went through the gears otherwise without incident. Steering and braking was straight and uneventful. Fun car to drive even with the USA spec low compression 3.2L.
ELECTRICALS
Front passenger up window button requires repeated pushing to get it to work. A/C blows but no cold air. Power mirrors don't work. Sunroof works. Test button lit up all the warning lights which all went off when I let go of the button. Aforementioned broken odometer. Engine bay shows no sign of electrical or other 'shadetree' modifications.
Thoughts? I would need to have a mechanic really go over it but the seller is stuck on $6k which feels a bit steep for a 633 with no maintenance history. Some of the issues I feel comfortable tackling myself (e.g. odometer; window switch) with the help of this forum and other resources but I would want a mechanic to help me understand what I'm getting myself into. $6k feels like a decent deal if any issues are minor but wouldn't feel so great if I'm immediately pouring money into the car to resolve serious issues that I might not have the time/ability to tackle. Any advice would be most appreciated.