Trailing Arm bushing removal

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corsachili

Trailing Arm bushing removal

Post by corsachili »

This job is way worse on an E24 than it is on an E9, and the E9 is no walk in the park either. I tried using a threaded rod with a washer and bolt on one end, and a deep socket with an ID big enough to allow the bushing to pull in to it, but with the right ID to press against the trailing arm body, but that failed miserably. I can't even get the bushing to move, probably because I'm putting pressure on the inner sleeve which is connected via rubber to the outer metal sleeve and so not enough of the force is being applied to the outer.

Is there a specific tool for this job? You can't even cut the bushing out because there is a third metal sleeve in between the inner and outer, preventing any sort of drill or knife in to that area.

I knew this job would be tough but I didn't know how tough. I would prefer just to leave them be, but at this point it seems stupid to replace the shocks and subframe mounts and not do the trailing arm mounts.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Warnings? Blessings? Prayers?

-tj in los gatos
corsachili

Post by corsachili »

Just found BMW Rear A-Arm Bushing Kit in the Baum Tools catalog which is used to remove the subframe bushings on all 6 series from 82-on. I'll call in the morning to find out how much this part costs. I really don't have a choice as I don't see any way to get them out without it.

-tj in los gatos
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Brucey
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Post by Brucey »

heat is your friend here; with the studding and the deep socket the inner parts will come out, leaving a bad smell in the air and a metal sleeve stuck in the arm.

The sleeve can be pressed out, welded to and pressed/hammered out, or cut out. Most people opt for the cutting out using a saw.

It is a horrible job, and you still might well need a special tool to install the new ones; they are often supplied ridiculously oversize and can be a real struggle to fit.

cheers
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JCS
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Trailing arm bushing removal

Post by JCS »

Corsa,

Try this First Fives website, I have not done this my self.

http://www.firstfives.org/faq/trailing_ ... g_faq.html
Jay
'88 M6, Red/Tan
My NEW Website https://www.jaysbmwparts.com/
Chris Wright

Post by Chris Wright »

After reading these links, I don't think I would waste my money on the "Tool". It sounds like the trailing arms have to come out and put on a 60 ton press or burned out:

viewtopic.php?t=13025&
viewtopic.php?t=9393&
viewtopic.php?t=9604&
corsachili

Post by corsachili »

Chris,

I already ordered the tool. I hope you're wrong. If the trailing arms need to come out so be it. I've heard installing the new ones can be trouble too. I guess this is why shops charge $1200 to do this job.

Regards,
TJ
Chris Wright wrote:After reading these links, I don't think I would waste my money on the "Tool". It sounds like the trailing arms have to come out and put on a 60 ton press or burned out:

viewtopic.php?t=13025&
viewtopic.php?t=9393&
viewtopic.php?t=9604&
Chris Wright

Post by Chris Wright »

Hope it all works out, [-o<

and take some pics of the tool in action! 8)
Area 52

Post by Area 52 »

Chris Wright wrote:After reading these links, I don't think I would waste my money on the "Tool". It sounds like the trailing arms have to come out and put on a 60 ton press or burned out:

viewtopic.php?t=13025&
viewtopic.php?t=9393&
viewtopic.php?t=9604&
On my E28 (same type of arms):
20 ton press didn't work
40 ton press popped one loose
60 ton press didn't budge the other three and crushed the heavy duty socket that had the same diameter as the bushings and used between the press and bushing.
Acetylene rosebud torch worked to burn out the rubber (billowing toxic smoke)...then split the remaining steel bushing housings and knock em out.
Be forewarned...if they pop loose in the press, it sounds like a 12 gauge shotgun being fired right next to your ear.
corsachili

Post by corsachili »

Well, as the kids say, that was an "epic fail". The tool arrived yesterday from Baum Tool. It looked impressive in its carrying case. It's heavy, seemingly well made, and can be configured to remove and replace the trailing arm bushings for a variety of BMW models.

The instructions are simple and clear; "Install tool with proper configuration and remove trailing arm bushing". "Use of power tools voids warranty". I set it up for "removal" and installed it on my trailing arm. I used a ratchet with a good sized handle and started tightening the nut on the threaded rod which is supposed to put proper pressure on the other end with the drift on it to pull the bushing through the trailing arm.

I didn't get very much pressure on it before the bolt sheared and the entire assembly went flying apart. I don't know if the bolt was defective or if the tool just doesn't work. Regardless, that was a $200 failure.

Score
Trailing Arm bushing-2, TJ-0

-tj in los gatos
Chris Wright

Post by Chris Wright »

There is a guarantee on the tool, right? [-o<
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Da_Hose
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Post by Da_Hose »

I CANNOT EMPHASIZE ENOUGH just how difficult those bushings were to remove. [-X

As someone else said, when they finally let go, the entire 60-ton press jumped and so did everyone in the shop. I also ruined a press tool that was supposed to be able to drive out the bushing. I did use the cup to push the bushing out, but used 3/4" thick plates of steel to interface the bottom of the ram to the die and 3/4" thick solid steel bottom plates, matched to the diameter of the control arm. If you don't have production shop tools and skills for this job, it is a very rough ride.

Don't mess with those trailing arm bushings if you don't absolutely have to. If you must, take the t-arms off and take them to a shop. Get a quote ahead of time, so they can deal with the nightmare and you will now know just how much your sanity costs to maintain. :lol:

Jose
1987 M6 - My dream car
corsachili

Post by corsachili »

Chris-I'm not sure about the tool. I will call Baum tomorrow morning.
Da-Hose-It's a bitch of a job but it is not impossible, provided the trailing arm bushings aren't completely seized in the trailing arm.

Most people are of the opinion that the only way to remove them is to burn out the rubber center, and then hack saw the metal sleeves in several places until you can knock the old bushings out. Of course the problem then is getting the new ones in.

I started burning and cutting one out yesterday. The biggest challenge here is finding a way to hold the trailing arm. I did manage to make some progress but bushing #1 is not out yet, and of course I still have 3 to go. It's going to be a long afternoon.

But first I'm going for a ride on the F1 in an attempt to squeeze some joy out of what will be a day filled with a lot of unpleasant work.

-tj in los gatos
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Da_Hose
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Post by Da_Hose »

Putting in the new bushings is easy.

My experience was that the metal/metal interfacing parts end up experiencing corrosion which causes galling. Then the bushing and control arm are basically all one solid piece. A little heat cycling would probably have helped during the removal.


You know ... thinking about it there is another way we haven't talked about.

Instead of burning out the cores, use a hole saw jus a bit smaller than the inner metal sleeve. Don't use the pilot drill type hole saw. Use the open tube type. Then you can easily pull the core and get at the outer sleeve with a hacksaw.

Jose
1987 M6 - My dream car
corsachili

Post by corsachili »

It's done. It was a nasty, painful, frustrating, dirty job. It took about 4 hours to get all 4 bushings out. I used a propane torch to remove the inner sleeve, and then cut through the middle and outer sleeve with a hack saw. Then I pried the middle sleeve out and worked on driving the rest of the bushing out of the trailing arm.

I don't see how a hole saw would work. There's not enough room in between the outer and middle sleeve for a hole saw, and I don't think that you'd be able to do it because the saw would grab on the rubber. I could be wrong, but at this point I'm just glad the hard part of the job is done.

I'm going to install them with a press at my friend's shop. I tried to get one in and didn't have any luck, and I really don't want to damage the bushing or the trailing arm, or worse, have to remove another one.

Thanks to all for the advice and encouragement. Hopefully Sharkie will be back on the road soon, with new road holding manners.

-tj in los gatos
GripGreg
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Post by GripGreg »

Don't forget to use some sorta lubricant to install the new ones.
Good luck,,,,Greg
Hit the apex
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WISE9UY
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Re: Trailing Arm bushing removal

Post by WISE9UY »

Wow this is a good read and I know digging up a very old thread, but that is the great thing about an established forum... A wealth of knowledge that stands the test of time! I was in the boat of trying to remove my old bushings. I concur that this process is extremely difficult and ultimately beat me. I agree that the best approach would have been heat and burning out the bushing to then remove the metal sleeve. For the time and effort, it was easier to get a replacement and I would sincerely recommend to anyone whose time is of the greater value, the cost in time to remove may not be worth preserving the original.
------------------------------------
1988 M6 / 1988 635csi 5sp / 1986 635csi 5sp / 1986 635csi Auto
1989 325i 5sp / 1987 325is 5sp
1973 3.0CS / 1970 2800CS
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Gone but not forgotten:
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Ronnie Wilson
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Re: Trailing Arm bushing removal

Post by Ronnie Wilson »

Hi all

After changing my rear trailing arm bushes and subframe bushes if you don't have access to a work shop then the only real option is to heat the out side of the subframe with a blow tourch The rubber will become tacky and can be pulled out.

The trailing arm bushes need also need to be heated up with the blow tourch the centres will again become tacky then you can simply push them out.
The out sleeves of the bushes need to be cut with a haxsaw being carefull not to start cutting into the trailing arm.
Getting the new ones in can be done using a lengh of high tensile 12mm dia stud with long 12mm nuts as used on suspended ceilings. Applying heat again to the outside of either the subframe or the trailing arms makes it a bit easier to get the new bushes in.
Ronnie
Liverpool uk.
1986 635csi.
Bronze Beige Metallic.
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