Rear end has no bounce at all!

[songzunhuang]

Before you all start with Kim Kardashian jokes... I recently got an 84 633Csi. I noticed that when I press on the rear, nothing happens. It's like there are no shocks at all. It's the same on both sides. The front suspension seems ok.

The question is, what exactly do I need to replace? I think the original shocks are still on there. It seems to me that the springs should still raise up the back and give it some bounce. Is it all shot?

Thanks for any info.

[Brucey]

depends what springs and shocks you have, and what the ride height is right now, and why.

If you can take some pics showing ride height and what the springs/shocks look like, I'm sure you will get some answers.

There are at least three common different shock setups and an infinite number of different springs that someone might have fitted...

cheers

[GripGreg]

Brucey is of course correct. But, just because it doesn't move
doesn't mean it necessarily should be replaced IMHO.
Take it for a ride to feel it out?
Change at least the front brake pads & bleed the whole system first.
One thing at a time in my opinion.
Don't let any mechanic tell you you need to replace things just because they say so.

[songzunhuang]

Well, I purchased the car as a No-Op and it's still parked at a remote location. I can only go visit every once in a while and work on things a little at a time until I get it smogged and registered in California.

Bottom line is that I don't have easy access to go take pictures and such. So this will have to wait a few days. Meanwhile, the below is the best picture I have from a previous session. I don't know if the angle of the shot will affect the ability to see how it's sitting.

I was just trying to get a head of the game an learn as much as I can. Thanks forthe suggestions.

[GripGreg]

Thanx, Song.
From that same angle, if you put the camera at door handle
height, it would give us a better idea of how low it is.
Good pictures!
I understand getting ahead of the game but, do it in the right order.
Get it running, change the oil & antifreeze and hoses & belts and then, get it stopping!
If you have extra duckets, maybe you can buy a set of wheels with tires (hint-hint) when they pop up?

[songzunhuang]

Thanx, Song.
From that same angle, if you put the camera at door handle
height, it would give us a better idea of how low it is.
Good pictures!
I understand getting ahead of the game but, do it in the right order.
Get it running, change the oil & antifreeze and hoses & belts and then, get it stopping!
If you have extra duckets, maybe you can buy a set of wheels with tires (hint-hint) when they pop up?

Cooling system flushed. Hoses changed. Oil and filter changed. It's running very well. I need to get the car to a smog station and I wanted to drive it there next week. This is why a started worrying about the wheels and tires. The tires in the car are not going to make it. Of course thinking of the wheels and tires led to the suspension. That's how I got here.

[GripGreg]

Change the air filter before going to the smog station!
I forgot,, did you change the plugs? Change them before smogging!
There's something about fresh plugs & air filter!
Are you sure about the tires? No joke, Join Triple A! Today!
Put 32 psi in the tires & see how they feel & look. Just don't drive hard.
Also, our cars pass smog easier if they're warmed up really good.

Check 'cars and parts for sale' again for 'Lpineshark'!
I'm not sure if he has what will work for your car but, he has alotta parts.
These guys will help you with that. I don't want to confuse you.

[hornhospital]

Before you all start with Kim Kardashian jokes...

I recently got an 84 633Csi. I noticed that when I press on the rear, nothing happens. It's like there are no shocks at all. It's the same on both sides. The front suspension seems ok.

Explain what "nothing happens" means. Does the rear end not go down when pushed down? Does it mean it goes down, then up when released and doesn't bounce (as your thread title implies)? If it does that, it's doing exactly what it's supposed to do. The shocks are dampening the rebound just as they should.

[songzunhuang]

Before you all start with Kim Kardashian jokes...

I recently got an 84 633Csi. I noticed that when I press on the rear, nothing happens. It's like there are no shocks at all. It's the same on both sides. The front suspension seems ok.

Explain what "nothing happens" means. Does the rear end not go down when pushed down? Does it mean it goes down, then up when released and doesn't bounce (as your thread title implies)? If it does that, it's doing exactly what it's supposed to do. The shocks are dampening the rebound just as they should.

Nothing happens means that it doesn't go down or up. It's like I'm pushing on the ground. No movement whatsoever, nada. It's like the suspension is in a permanent state of bottomed out.

What confused me is that you would think the springs would have some function, unless the shock is frozen completely. In all my years messing with cars, I've never come across a completely froze immobile rear end.

Anyway, I hope that's a bit clearer now.

[GripGreg]

I'm only guessing but, the shocks just may be frozen in place because of lack of use?
Try jacking the car up & dropping it in place using a four wheel jack, There's another name but, my mind is going blank again.
Also, I'm just inventing a way right now. You may need to pull it away from that wall a little bit?

Fill the tires first?
There is an air pump you can plug into the cig lighter.(If that works!) Check the fuses.

There are four jacking points; find & use only them!!!!
Maybe with a 6" or 8" 2X4 laid flat on the jack's cup to protect the body??
You can get that free block of wood from Home Depot in a bin next to the cutting saw in back of the lumber dept.
Cut it yourself if it's too long & that'll be free too.
I invent as I need to, can you tell?
Back under my small shade tree,,,,Greg

Ps; On second thought, ask here what this may do to the suspension!

[hornhospital]

Greg's got it. The shocks are frozen in place. You may be able to break them loose with repeated bouncing on the back. Shoot some oil on the shock rods beforehand. Lift the dust cover to do that (if either one still has them). Try and get the oil ON the top of the shock where the seal is.

As to your ride height....it looks normal to me in the picture provided.

[Pod]

There are four jacking points; find & use only them!!!!

Well, Greg, I know there is far less chance of corrosion of the sills in your neck of the woods, but that's the last thing I would do! Only ever jack an E24 on the "chassis" rails and (forward) rear mounts (or maybe the diff). That way you won't risk seeing the jack disappear into the sill section as you jack it up

[wattsmonkey]

I had the same reaction to Pod: us Brits would NEVER use the jacking points on a UK car, and "proceed with extreme caution" urged even for you lucky sun-kissed Californians!

Watch out for the square pads at the front of the sill/rear of the front wheelarch: they are NOT for lifting, even though they are referred to as "lifting pads"!

[songzunhuang]

I had the same reaction to Pod: us Brits would NEVER use the jacking points on a UK car, and "proceed with extreme caution" urged even for you lucky sun-kissed Californians!

Watch out for the square pads at the front of the sill/rear of the front wheelarch: they are NOT for lifting, even though they are referred to as "lifting pads"!

Oh crap, I used those square pads when I changed the tires.
So where are the actual lifting points?

[Pod]

Oh crap, I used those square pads when I changed the tires.
So where are the actual lifting points?

Read my last post - I told you how to do it

[songzunhuang]

Oh crap, I used those square pads when I changed the tires.
So where are the actual lifting points?

Read my last post - I told you how to do it

Thanks POD, I see it now.
Sometimes I'm reading this forum on my iPhone while commuting on a train. The type is teeny tiny and miss some things.

I'll need to be more careful next time. I know I wasn't jacking it up in the right places. the good news is that nothing "gave".

I'll get to do it all again when I change my wheels in the near future.

[GripGreg]

In England they have to be extra careful of rust because of the rainy/dreary weather.
I get it but, I wouldn't use the differential. The chassis is a better choice between the two.
I believe the chassis would be a lot stronger. The diff can possibly go through the floor?
Everyone has their opinion and we're all trying to help. The choice is yours.

To me, those jacking points are made to hold the weight?
I use them every time I lift the car but, it's a Bakersfield raised car.
Your barn find has been out of the weather for how long?
Something to consider.
Good luck,,,,Greg

[wattsmonkey]

[quote
Oh crap, I used those square pads when I changed the tires.
So where are the actual lifting points?[/quote]

I used these on my first E28 (same floorpan arrangement as the six): the jack went up; most of the car stayed where it was! It's the use of these that cracks the underseal and lets the rust get a hold in loads of old fives and sixes here.

Like Greg says, in your climate it may well be fine, but as per Pod's advice, a jack under the chassis rail at the front is DEFINITELY fine, especially with a block of wood to spread the load and at the rear I use the beam mounting bolts.

Regardless of rust issues, these are big, (very) old, floppy cars, so avoiding any avoidable twisting is a good idea. The abundant posts on how effective strut braces should give you an idea how much floppiness is going on.

Your car looks ace, by the way: the absence of a spoiler on the boot gives it a really clean line.

[Pod]

In England they have to be extra careful of rust because of the rainy/dreary weather.
I get it but, I wouldn't use the differential. The chassis is a better choice between the two.
I believe the chassis would be a lot stronger. The diff can possibly go through the floor?

Point taken, Greg - but if the diff went through the floor, the car would be SO corroded, it would not be safe to even sit in

I've broken many E24s and I've never seen any corrosion around the diff mounting points.

Maybe I should have been clearer. I usually jack the rear end using the diff as a temporary measure, immediately placing axle stands under the rear "chassis" sections to take the load. This is the quickest way to do it and the jack is not (in the way) where I wish to place the stands!

Obviously I also use wheel chocks when only lifting one end, especially important when raising the back

[GripGreg]

Okay Pod, now that makes more sense! I thought you knew better.
After all, your shade tree is larger than mine!
Back under my small shade tree,,,,Greg

Edit: Wattsmonkey; I like your thoughts too!

[jps635]

The following maybe helpful

viewtopic.php?t=13163&highlight=jacking+points

[Brucey]

mad thought; if the shocks have not moved for a long time the seals will be bone dry and very sticky; this might be enough to cause the shocks not to move.

If you can do, try some spray lube (WD40 or similar) where the shock shaft enters the shock body, then jiggling the car up and down by hand. If that doesn't work, try lifting the car up instead; this way the (hopefully clean and well lubricated) shock shaft inside the shock will try to extend out of the seal and this should go a bit easier, perhaps?

hth

cheers

[GripGreg]

Song:
Here's another Grip thought, Try lubing what these guys say and just drive it!
Don't sweat the small stuff and create an issue?

Just drive it. I bet it'll loosen up eventually.
Replace the front pads first!
Back under my small shade tree,,,,Greg

[Da_Hose]

Have you considered the possibility of hydro-lock from the pump malfunctioning? Remember that liquid does not compress.

Is there a pressure release in the pump hydraulic line, so you can confirm it isn't just completely pumped full?

Jose

[GripGreg]

Jose`
How does that work? I did not know that.
Greg