Hope this is in the right section..
I need to get my 87 635 off its weight on all 4 corners while I remove my rear sub frame and suspension so I can paint and redo the bushes. Front is fine but where can I place axle stands at the rear without going through the floor?
Thanks,
Jacking Points
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- TomMan7531
- Posts: 68
- Joined: Fri Feb 24, 2017 1:20 pm
- Location: Southampton, Hampshire, UK
Jacking Points
1987 BMW 635CSI Auto, Royal Blue, Cream interior, daily rust finds....
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Re: Jacking Points
I made up some lengths of timber with reliefs for the sill drain points to place under the sills.
"Most of it necessary; all of it enjoyable." LJKS
'84 635CSi, dogleg...itbs and supercharger????? Eaton Mess
'84 635CSi, dogleg...itbs and supercharger????? Eaton Mess
Re: Jacking Points
I also had this dilemma as I had to work on the sill and jacking points but also had the rear subframe and axle removed.
I eventually supported the shell of the car under the rear floor ( after the axle was removed ) elevating it to a safe working height to gain access to all the areas that I had to repair .
The photo shows the timber blocks and 6ton stands that I used . I drilled two holes through the floor on each side and and screwed the blocks to the floor to prevent slippage . If I was to do it again I'd run timber across the car from side to side just to spread the weight further .
I had no problems with distortion even though it was two full years supported like this .
I'd suggest you leave the front down on it's wheels whilst you work on the rear as this will prevent you having to raise it way too high to work on .
Good luck .
Don
I eventually supported the shell of the car under the rear floor ( after the axle was removed ) elevating it to a safe working height to gain access to all the areas that I had to repair .
The photo shows the timber blocks and 6ton stands that I used . I drilled two holes through the floor on each side and and screwed the blocks to the floor to prevent slippage . If I was to do it again I'd run timber across the car from side to side just to spread the weight further .
I had no problems with distortion even though it was two full years supported like this .
I'd suggest you leave the front down on it's wheels whilst you work on the rear as this will prevent you having to raise it way too high to work on .
Good luck .
Don
1981 635 series 1
- TomMan7531
- Posts: 68
- Joined: Fri Feb 24, 2017 1:20 pm
- Location: Southampton, Hampshire, UK
Re: Jacking Points
Thanks all, I have placed the stands on the Sills for now and seems to be holding the weight too, that said if any one knows a linked article showing how to remove all the diff/arms and the big bar then please let me know.
1987 BMW 635CSI Auto, Royal Blue, Cream interior, daily rust finds....
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- Posts: 239
- Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2016 11:40 pm
- Location: Liverpool uk
Re: Jacking Points
Hi Tom,
I put axle stands underneath the jacking points at the rear.
But first made a plate to go ontop of the axle stands with lots of rubber in between the car sill and plate.
This is the only area you have. When you come to reassemble the subframe you need clear access otherwise you have to reposition the stands out of your way.
Good look.
I put axle stands underneath the jacking points at the rear.
But first made a plate to go ontop of the axle stands with lots of rubber in between the car sill and plate.
This is the only area you have. When you come to reassemble the subframe you need clear access otherwise you have to reposition the stands out of your way.
Good look.
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Ronnie
Liverpool uk.
1986 635csi.
Bronze Beige Metallic.
Liverpool uk.
1986 635csi.
Bronze Beige Metallic.