rear wheel bearing replacement?

bmwshark · Post by **bmwshark** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 2:42 am

Hello everyone.

Just recently did maintance on my 6 and found the driver side rear axle, a little play laterally and radial that play is also include with hub and axle together.

I need some DIY's on replacement steps of the rear wheel bearings.

Thanks

juzza · Post by **juzza** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 2:30 pm

Just in the process of doing mine, you need to remove the drive shaft using an allen key (8mm I think) to get to the 36mm 'Jesus nut' that holds the hub together, ie its on the inside of the hub. I did this with the trailing arm off the car which meant it was easier to get my local engineering firm to separate the drive flange (inside bit) from the side shaft (outside bit), would be harder with it on the car. On mine (1986 car) there are two bearings, one loose outer one with caged bearings and one inner with caged bearings - pushed out fine with same sized piece of wood for even force, easy peasy for this style of bearing, ie not sealed.

My other (broken) computer contains the BMW manual pages that cover this repair unless anyone can volunteer same

I have pics of mine in bits if you need ....

Torques pdf is a little hard to decipher, anyone have a breakdown of the figures for all the subframe/brake/diff/driveshaft nuts & bolts?

edited to correct inaccuracies

bmwshark · Post by **bmwshark** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 3:32 am

yes i would like to see the pics you have

Chris Wright · Post by **Chris Wright** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 5:08 am

Do you have a Bentley manual yet? It's all in there, step by step with the torques:

"There are no aftermarket repair manuals for the Six, but it shares the same engine, drivetrain, suspension and many systems with the 5-Series so the Bentley BMW 5-Series '82 to '88 (Green cover, $38 at Amazon.com) Manual works very well. The "Driveablity" and the fuel injection sections alone are worth the price for diagnosing running problems.
http://www.amazon.com/BMW-5-Service-Man ... 459&sr=8-3 "

Have you downloaded the ETM yet?

Go to this thread and scroll to the 5th post for some more info:

viewtopic.php?t=8177&

Unfortunately, the free PDF of the Shop Manual listed in the link above is missing the chapter on the rear axle.

juzza · Post by **juzza** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:28 am

bmwshark, check your PMs.

I don't have the Bentley, can anyone supply the torques for my rear end rebuild please please please:

Prop to diff (4 nuts)
Diff to subframe (4 bolts)
Diff mount to body (4 bolts)
Drive shaft to hub (6 allen bolts)
Hub nut (200lbs + ???)
Shocker to Hub (1 bolt)
Pitman arm/dog bones (2 bolts)
Trailing arm bushes (2 bolts)
Subframe bush (1 nut)

Thanks ever so in advance.....

Da_Hose · Post by **Da_Hose** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:51 pm

I scanned and uploaded my copy of a manual and torque spec book. Unfortunately, my manual seems to be missing the rear axle section, but it's still really useful for other areas. The torque spec. book is complete and has all the rear axle torque values. Chris put the links in a thread along with the ETM. I linked it below.

viewtopic.php?t=7762

Mind you, the downloads are big so you better have fast DSL to get the files. I didn't bookmark the torque specs book, but you can search for keywords with your pdf reader.

Jose

Chris Wright · Post by **Chris Wright** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 4:12 pm

juzza wrote:bmwshark, check your PMs.

I don't have the Bentley, can anyone supply the torques for my rear end rebuild please please please:

Prop to diff (4 nuts)
Diff to subframe (4 bolts)
Diff mount to body (4 bolts)
Drive shaft to hub (6 allen bolts)
Hub nut (200lbs + ???)
Shocker to Hub (1 bolt)
Pitman arm/dog bones (2 bolts)
Trailing arm bushes (2 bolts)
Subframe bush (1 nut)

Thanks ever so in advance.....

Aw .... don't PM this stuff ... share!

Post the pics here or better yet do a write-up for the Tech section.

You'll want to get these free downloads:

There is a free downloadable Factory Workshop Manual and a separate Factory Specification Book (you need the Spec book because torques/specs are not included in the Workshop Manual). The Workshop Manual is not the greatest, but you can't beat the price, and it is invaluable for the things not covered in the Bentley. It basically just lists the steps for replacing parts, very little in the way of Troubleshooting or System Descriptions are included, so it is best to still get the Bentley, and use the Factory Manual for e24 specific things that aren't in the Bentley:
viewtopic.php?p=53625

In the mean time (from the Bentely):

Prop to diff (4 nuts) ......................................... 53 ft/lb (72 Nm)
Diff to subframe (4 bolts) ................................. 59 ft/lb (80 Nm)
Rubber Diff mount to body (4 bolts) .................. 35 ft/lb (48 Nm) - Install with Loctite 270
Diff to rubber mount ........................................ 64 ft/lb (87 Nm)
Half shaft to Diff ............................................... 43 ft/lb (58 Nm)
Half shaft to hub (6 allen bolts) .................... 43-46 ft/lb (58-63 Nm)
Hub nut (200lbs + ??? ............ M22 nut - 129-155 ft/lb (175-210 Nm)
............................................... M27 nut - 173-192 ft/lb (234-260 Nm)
Shocker to Hub (1 bolt) ............................. 92-105 ft/lb (125-143 Nm) - (Car in normal position)
Pitman arm/dog bones (2 bolts) ........................ 93 ft/lb (127 Nm) - (Car in normal position)
Trailing arm bushes (2 bolts) ............................. 49 ft/lb (67 Nm) - (Car in normal position)
Subframe bush (1 nut) ............................ 101-112 ft/lb (140-155 Nm)
Stabilizer Bar .............................................. 16-17 ft/lb (22-24 Nm)
Wheel Lugs ................................................ 67-81 ft/lb (90-110 Nm)

Car in normal position = Full weight on the wheels in normal position with 150 lbs in each front seat, 46 lbs in the trunk and a full tank of gas.

juzza · Post by **juzza** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 2:58 pm

Ya beat me to it, I was eventually going to say that the write up will come in time as I'm halfway through the job .....

The PM is for the pics only which I haven't yet removed from the camera!!! I'm a bit peeved at the moment though as the trailing arm bushes that came from GSF Car Parts are for the wrong model, E12 base I presume. Looks like my only option is BMW now at ?160 which I just can't afford. I guess I could do a little pleading with Powerflex & see if they'd do a run of them for all those shark owners out there :?

Chris Wright · Post by **Chris Wright** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 5:08 pm

juzza wrote: I'm a bit peeved at the moment though as the trailing arm bushes that came from GSF Car Parts are for the wrong model, E12 base I presume. Looks like my only option is BMW now at ?160 which I just can't afford. I guess I could do a little pleading with Powerflex & see if they'd do a run of them for all those shark owners out there :?

What bushings cost ?160 ($233)?

Not the trailing arm bushings:
(Meyle - $20/set, OEM $42/set)

Not the Subframe/Axle Carrier Mount:
{Feri-Bilstein OE - $16 ea, OEM $45 ea)

juzza · Post by **juzza** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:02 pm

OMG I love you Chris (yes, bottle of wine involved). Brain cells lacking to find correct link, Meyle w'site not forthcoming with info, maybe a US link is coming up with the goods. OEM where? Sorry to appear incapable ......

Thanks again!

juzza · Post by **juzza** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:23 pm

Chris, just noticed some discrepancies between your lb/ft & Nm figures, can you confirm which ones are correct please (looks like the lb/ft).

Cheers

J

Chris Wright · Post by **Chris Wright** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:45 pm

juzza wrote:Chris, just noticed some discrepancies between your lb/ft & Nm figures, can you confirm which ones are correct please (looks like the lb/ft).

Cheers

J

Which ones?

juzza · Post by **juzza** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 10:49 pm

It looks like the hub nut Nm figures are too low .....

Chris Wright · Post by **Chris Wright** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 12:11 am

juzza wrote:It looks like the hub nut Nm figures are too low .....

Sorry, right you are, I edited the post above.

_________________________________

The examples of the bushings above are from US suppliers:

http://www.AutoHausAZ.com
Or
http://www.Stevehaygood.com/

You might try a new post, "Parts Source in UK" and I'm sure someone will chime in with a good place in the UK.

juzza · Post by **juzza** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:20 am

See "Rear Wheel Bearings answer required ASAP PLEASE PLEASE" for full answer but suffice to say once removed, bearings will need to be replaced with new ones, two full days wasted learning that trick!

j

demet · Post by **demet** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 7:03 pm

From the manual:

To remove the bearing I used a nylon hammer to pop out the axle shaft. One inner bearing shell will stay on the axle shaft and you need a bearing puller to pull the bearing shell off the shaft.

You can then hit the other inner bearing shell off the bearing with a hammer and punch.

Then I used an air impact hammer to push the outer bearing shell out of the housing.

To put the new bearing on I used a hammer and lightly tapped the bearing into the housing. Tap on the outer shell only.

I made this tool to pull the axle shaft into the bearing. This is a must since there is no other way to push the axle shaft into the bearing. It's a press fit. The tool pulls the shaft against the bearing shells. Notice the old bearing shell on the tool.

Chris Wright · Post by **Chris Wright** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 8:14 pm

Nice write-up!

Where did you find the threaded piece in the last photo that threads onto the stub shaft?

Almost looks like a plumbing pipe connector!

What is the thread size?

demet · Post by **demet** » Fri Feb 27, 2009 8:42 pm

chris Wright wrote:Nice write-up! :-)

Where did you find the threaded piece in the last photo that threads onto the stub shaft?

Almost looks like a plumbing pipe connector!

What is the thread size?

Good eye! It is a plumbing connector with SAE threads. I was able to catch about 3 threads of the axle shaft with it (tightened by hand). The pipe section is from a 2" foundation post.

The tool didn't need to exert a lot of pull to get the shaft moving into the bearing. The press fit is not that tight.

The only important aspect of the tool was to push against the bearing race while the axle shaft was pulled through. The old bearing race was perfect for this.

juzza · Post by **juzza** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 6:42 pm

Nice one demet, excellent piece, could have done with that a week ago - ho ho ho. Saves me doing the write up now!

j

DanL · Post by **DanL** » Fri Jul 13, 2012 10:34 pm

Recanting my idiot question.

Thanks.

MÃ¶chteWeiÃŸ · Post by **MÃ¶chteWeiÃŸ** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 3:38 am

DanL wrote:I'm about to replace my rear wheel bearings. Can someone tell me the size of the axle nut? The Bentley manual says 22mm or 27mm but before I make a trip to Northern Tool I'd like to know which I need to get. That seems awfully small BTW. Isn't the front nut a 46mm?

Thanks.

I would think you'd already have a 22mm; and if you don't, it wouldn't hurt (fits the steering wheel and front upper control arm nuts & bolts). So buy both. What have you got to lose?

demet · Post by **demet** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 2:16 pm

DanL wrote:Can someone tell me the size of the axle nut?

Looked at a spare nut that I think came from the rear axle and it takes a 36mm socket, which is also the same size as the front crank nut.

DanL · Post by **DanL** » Mon Jan 14, 2013 7:20 pm

Demet posted some great pics of his puller tool. I took the same idea and tried to improvise and spent a month with my shark on jack stands until I got it right.

My final approach worked like a champ. Just like the picture I used 3/4" threaded rod and associated nuts. I used two nuts at the end as a place to hold on to the tool so it wouldn't twist upon installation. For a washer I used one of the bearing caps from my bearing/ball joint kit install. On the business end I welded a 3/4" x 1" iron pipe adapter and then the old axle nut welded to that. That way there is no risk of messing up the stub axle threads. Instead of fence pipe I used a 6" long piece of iron pipe nipple. I think it was 2 1/2" diameter but just be sure to get the size that fits the inner race of the bearing (just take the old one to the store). All the parts cost about $15 and came from Home Depot. I had a local welding shop shop do the welds. It took them 10mins/$20.

This bearing kit had the right size cups and caps to do the job. The threaded rod is cheap but it worked.

http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front- ... 66829.html

I'm thinking I could swap out the other side in about 90mins.

juzza · Post by **juzza** » Wed Feb 06, 2013 11:00 pm

Here's the thing, wish I'd have thought to swap out the ABS rings as now I think I have a broken one. How big a job is it?

monoi · Post by **monoi** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 9:51 am

juzza wrote:OMG I love you Chris (yes, bottle of wine involved). Brain cells lacking to find correct link, Meyle w'site not forthcoming with info, maybe a US link is coming up with the goods. OEM where? Sorry to appear incapable ......

Thanks again!

OEM are available from your local bmw dealer.

THis french site is also very good: http://www.agretro.com/en/classic/class ... ch_classic

bigcoupe.com

rear wheel bearing replacement?

rear wheel bearing replacement?

Frustrating job but finally complete.