bigcoupe.com

Hi guys

Does anyone have a procedure for repairing the front drivers side jacking point and foot well.
Have removed the wheel arch covering plate which was corroded at the bottom to reveal the front of the jacking point corroded and a hole of around 10mm.
Do i simple hack of the old jacking point and fabricate a new one and cut out a small section of corroded floorwell and fabricate that also. Does anyone know who is selling new or good second hand covering plates for the drivers side and passenger side. Thanks guys.

This photo shows the front jacking point on the E24 .As you can see it is rusted and was cut out and replaced If you are talking about the square body jig mount then unless you are looking for a concours resto it can be removed and repairs made to follow the toe board contour .Even if good ,it should not be used for jacking up the car as there is insufficient inherent strength at that point.
I have seen rear floor sections for sale but not stamped fronts . I made my own from 18 gauge sheet steel . A point of note . When the inner wing splash guards are removed there should be a 18mm dia hole in the bottom of the A piller . This is the actual exit for the sunroof drain pipes . On mine , and many others , these pipes end about two inches away from this hole allowing drain water from the sunroof to drain straight into the sill areas accelerating corrosion in that area . The end of the pipe(s) can be reached once the speaker is removed . They can then be extended down and out where they belong .
Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Thanks for your reply. Sorry yes i mean the factory assembly points. Have attached a picture of my issue. Did you use plastic pipe to extend the drain and if so did you slide it over the original.
What internal dia pipe would be best. Does anyone know where i can get replacement fender/ wheel arch covering plates for drivers and passenger side. I haven't taken the passenger side covering plate of yet to see what condition that is in but the covering plate on that side looks ok.
What would be the process of pulling back the drivers side footwell carpet.sorry a know thats alot of questions but any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks [attachment=0]IMG_0154

Hi Ronnie,

The inner wing splashguards took me ages to get from the dealer. Someone was selling expensive carbon fibre (iirc) ones on ebay a while back. You might want to re-make your own.

Driver's carpet can be pulled back by removing lower dash panel (four screws), removing the speaker pod, then removing the accelerator pedal linkage. This will allow you to pull it to one side to see the soundproofing underneath. You will probably find that this is soaking wet.

On the positive side, they all rust here and it's not too hard to repair. I did not need to cut out as much as Don's example, but the area above the lifting pad was bad, with the sill either side of the jacking point having suffered.

I know I'm likely to be on my own with this, but I did not replace the factory lifting point or the jacking points on my M due to their rustprone construction. Instead, I welded a shallow "U" shaped 3mm plate over the relevant part of the chassis rail for lifting duties.

Thanks for that guys.

[quote="Ronnie Wilson"]Thanks for your reply. Sorry yes i mean the factory assembly points. Have attached a picture of my issue. Did you use plastic pipe to extend the drain and if so did you slide it over the original.
What internal dia pipe would be best. Does anyone know where i can get replacement fender/ wheel arch covering plates for drivers and passenger side. I haven't

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sorry for the slow reply .
15mm OD plastic domestic water pipe is a tight interference fit . I pushed it up about two inches and used a little plastic adhesive to seal it .Depending on where your drain pipe ends you may have to heat the pipe insert prior to fitting it to get the radius to the actual exit hole .

Re my posted photo and the amount of floor cut away. I had a ( the normal !) circa 5 inch square area of rust in that corner ( less in the LHS ) but as I was removing those awful removeable circular plates from all four floors ,and I wanted to see inside the outer sill on that side , I cut one large section which was easier to fabricate and replace than two or three smaller sections. It also looks less like a patch work quilt and indeed is barely noticeable from underneath.
Don

New front wheel arch covering plates arrived at the dealer yesterday.£126 for the pair less the BMW club discount.
Once the repair to the drivers side floor are done i will get the covering plates black powder coated.

Shiny new bits! Now cover them in zinc primer, stonechip and underseal!