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Hi, I am wanting to fit correct spigot bearing (needle vs ball bearing).

Current crank shaft has spacer / reducer from 32mm and then a needle bearing, although the cage and needles had separated from the needle bearing "outside" sleeve. I bought the engine so not sure when this had happened.
I am nervous about a new needle bearing also coming apart when installing gearbox.

a) If I was to go for ball bearing type, I would need to remove spacer / reducer from the crank.
Question has anyone had success in doing this (sounds harder than removing a the ball bearing).

b) Is there an advantage of the needle over the ball bearing ?

Thanks

Note: I am finding realoem a bit confusing for determining correct part. Suggest ball bearing, but engine had needle bearing.

Note: June 1979 645csi #5550216. Getrag G/B

I would opt for the Ball Bearing unit. I have seen multiple issues with the needle bearing coming apart as yours. The only issue I have encountered with the Ball Bearing unit was the trans input shaft had become semi fused to the inner race so I basically pulled the pilot bearing (with the trans) to separate the trans fom the motor. Bearing pulled off the input shaft after they were apart but of course the clutch had to go with the trans too. Just make sure to lube the input shaft and the inner race prior to assembly.

Ralph

Thanks Ralph,
have you had any experience on removing the reducer / spacer to enable going to the larger diameter ball bearing ? thanks

Not had the pleasure yet but with the Crank Flange threads available you should be able to mount a puller easily. Spray a little bit of fine lubricant to help release the “bond” between the spacer and crank

Ralph

Along these lines
Big question here. Reviewing real oem above as pilot bearing was not sealed and replacement is.

Real OEM diagram above shows install order "capring", felt, covering plate, THEN bearing.

My existing as pictured in my post, install order was bearing, covering plate, felt, capring.


I assume OEM is correct? I'm guessing these bits were to keep grease in the bearing. Does it even matter with a sealed pilot bearing? This could be a big save before I bolt it back up.
Thx
Mike
EDIT

Given time constraints, I'm taking a leap of faith and positioning bits as per OEM which seems only to move bearing a little further back on the input shaft which I don't think is a bad thing.

No need for those other bits with the new type sealed bearing

Ralph

Got the tranny back together. Couldn't hand slide it the last 1/2 inch but working the bolts around snugged it up nicely.

Turn everything by hand (motor with a wrench) before trying to start it. Push clutch in and release a couple of times as well

Put the trans in gear and have someone depress the clutch pedal while you turn the installed driveshaft by hand. Listen for any unusual noise

Don’t forget to preload the center bearing

Inspect the Pedal Bracket for damage. E28 brackets are known to crack and require additional force to engage the clutch

Well done

Ralph

Will do. I expect the starter will take at least as long as putting the tranny back in!