Repair to black sealant/wiring loom

[gray635]

All:

The black sealant around the wiring harness where it enters the passenger compartment (left side of cowl) in my car has dried out and is flaking. It is shown in the lower right corner of this photo (not of my car): https://www.google.com/search?q=images+ ... 0702&vet=1

I've searched around but cannot find any information about a possible repair to this. I'd appreciate any advice or helpful links. Many thanks.

[GRNSHRK]

Been working on that myself, work still in process, however

I am attempting to "repair" mine with a product called "Shoe Goo", I kid you not

http://eclecticproducts.com/products/shoe-goo.html

If you try it, order black, of course

I was trying to make a mold to form a new grommet, but I couldn't keep the goo from sticking to the mold

Like I said, work on process

[bpoliakoff]

Bobbo google "mold release" .There you will find the solution to your problem. Once done, make multiples. At the same time, if successful, you will probably have to "slit: a new one to get it over the harness. When "sticking" it back together, as a caution, and just in case, make sure the slit is at the bottom just in case any moisture gets in there it has a place to get out.

[86_6series]

I used this one of these, don't remember which brand

https://www.homedepot.com/s/ligiud%2520 ... ape?NCNI-5

[GRNSHRK]

Liquid electrical tape

WTF is that

Any photos

I won't post pix until i get the desired results

[gray635]

Well, at least I know I'm not the only one struggling with this problem! A concours judge told me several years ago that this appearance would not cause any points deduction, since it was normal aging to the car, but the appearance still bugs the stew out of me. This is the last real "issue" that I have with the engine bay of the car (within reason!). If you guys figure out a good fix, please let me know.

Thanks,
Mike

[hornhospital]

Ta-dah.....

Liquid electrical tape.jpg.jpeg (100.1 KiB) Viewed 7416 times

[rhanley 635csi89]

I've used Liquid tape to cover/reinforce the failing, crumbing plastic connectors in the engine bay, works great.
BASF makes a sealant NP 1, IMO best sealant product on the market, you can mold it before it dries in place, apply several coats to build up the that area at the wiring loom. Seems to last forever.

Roger

NP-1 Primary Uses: Interior or Exterior sealant. Its is the toughest most durable sealant, and suitable for all common construction materials, including: Concrete / masonry, aluminum, wood and wood window frames, expansion wall joints, curtain wall construction, panel walls, pre-cast units, fascia, parapets, structural components, siding.

[gray635]

Roger:

The BASF product sounds like it might do the trick. Multiple coats and ability to mold it before it dries sounds like a workable solution. Thanks for the tip!

[bpoliakoff]

I am guessing NP1 has to be a rating or classification? So while googling BASF NP1, Masterseal NP! comes up at only $6 a tube versus $60 a tube for the BASF product. They both appear to be a polyurethane caulking. Not being an engineer I do not know the finer points that warrant such a large price differentiation. So maybe Ken or Roger can add to this ??

[rhanley 635csi89]

Bert,
MasterSeal NP1 Black (Formerly Sonolastic NP1), BASF have numerous MasterSeal products.
My google search came up with a case of 12 for $60, for single tube, I've aways paid $6 to $8 per tube from builders supply company, not the big box stores.
Spec sheet below:
https://www.buildsite.com/pdf/master_bu ... B33807.pdf
Roger

[bpoliakoff]

Hello Roger

So if my tech deprived mind digested this correctly, NP!, regardless of manufacturer, could very well do the trick and give a decent looking end result if applied with a little forethought and effort?

[rhanley 635csi89]

Hi Bert,
After a few more google searches, MasterSeal is Registered name of BASF and NP 1 is a Trade Mark of BASF. I personally would use the product of brand name company I feel comfortable with, it's readily available from many sources. As the product starts to cure you can shape it and have a a great looking product. Tongue depressors (pop sticks) or clay sculpture tools (Hobby Lobby have them in the Art department).

I don't know if all "NP" sealants are equal, however, BASF is a well known company.

Roger

From the BASF spec sheet:
3.Dry tooling is recommended. Proper tooling
results in the correct bead shape, neat joints,
and optimal adhesion.
Clean Up
1.Immediately after use, clean equipment
with MasterSeal 990 or xylene. Use proper
precautions when handling solvents.
2. Remove cured sealant by cutting with a
sharp-edged tool.
3. Remove thin films by abrading.

[hornhospital]

The mention of Zylene as a clean-up agent brings to mind a quart of the stuff I bought years ago. On the front of the can in large letters it said "ZYLENE"...and just below that the warning "CAUTION: MAY CONTAIN ZYLENE!" Really???
That was one of those head-shaking moments.

[gray635]

Just ordered a tube from Amazon. Could not find it at my local Lowe's big box. $15.94 shipped to my front door. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UM ... UTF8&psc=1

I'll give it a try. Will probably make a big mess - as usual!

[bpoliakoff]

So Gray, It looks as though you may be the sacrificial lamb. Please share your findings with us and some pictures as well. i think a big thank you is in order

[rhanley 635csi89]

Gray,
I've used NP1 in similar applications, you'll do fine. The product carries an expiration date, check the tube date. IIRC, just before the product cured, I applied a very very light coating of lacquer thinner on the sculpture tool to prevent the NP1 from sticking to it and finished the task.
Roger

[gray635]

Roger:

Thanks for the helpful hints. I'll take a stab at this and get back to the group with some before and after shots. But it won't be before SESF this coming weekend!

Regards,
Mike