Cold start injector fuel hose- the 'little perisher'

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olympia57
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Re: Cold start injector fuel hose- the 'little perisher'

Post by olympia57 »

Funnily enough I redid mine for the second time a couple of weeks ago . I had did it when restoring the car but a nagging doubt reigned as to whether I had used the correct fuel injection hose .
I found that it all went very easy this time round after I had aligned the hose clip on the CSI to give me direct access from above .
Car up on stands and access up under the manifold was quite straight forward ( long arms required though ..). I sleeved the fuel hose with foam pipe insulation where it passes through the hole on the inlet manifold .
1981 635 series 1
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sansouci
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Re: Cold start injector fuel hose- the 'little perisher'

Post by sansouci »

You might want to read this post by Shogun on the bimmerforums site:

"Good idea with the heat shield for the fuel hoses. Just checked with the part number I saw on your pic, spec:
HEATSHIELD PRODUCTS (204012) 1/2" ID X 10' HOT ROD SLEEVE ROLL Price: US $28.01
Hot Rod Sleeve is thermal sleeving capable of withstanding 1100 degree Fahrenheit continuous. This non-flammable sleeve has a special weave that allows it to expand and contract over fittings. In addition, it has that old school sleeve look with modern heat shield technology. Ideal for shielding fuel lines - helping to stop vapor lock, protect sensitive wire looms from close proximity heat, shield brake lines and hoses, and stop clutch cables from melting. This enables you to fit things into those tight places, and Heatshield Products know custom builds have lots of tight places. Available in 10 feet and 100 feet rolls. Continuous operating temperature of 1100 degree Fahrenheit, 2000 degree Fahrenheit intermittent, Capable of reducing up to 60 percent of radiant heat
Special weave that allows it to expand and contract over fittings, terminals and more, Helps to prevent vapor lock, protects wires from melting, shields oil and brake lines
Manufacturer: Heatshield Products, Shipping Weight: 35, Product Dimensions: width: 2.70, length: 7.10, depth: 1.10"

Also, use ABA clamps instead of the worm drive junk found everywhere

Here's a possible source:
https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.u ... -235-c.asp

And on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/22013-Stainless- ... B00OL26AW0
--Ken
Last edited by sansouci on Tue Jan 30, 2018 2:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Brucey
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Re: Cold start injector fuel hose- the 'little perisher'

Post by Brucey »

sansouci wrote:
Also, use ABA clamps instead of the worm drive junk found everywhere...
most 'ABA clips' are worm drive... if you mean 'ABA mini-clips' I can see the appeal but perhaps not for the CSV joint; a worm drive clip normally has a deeper hex on it and this makes it easier to tighten when you are working at a distance; I find that you need to hold a mini-clip in position with one hand when you start tightening the screw with another, and often that just isn't possible.

cheers
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randall977
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Re: Cold start injector fuel hose- the 'little perisher'

Post by randall977 »

On my car someone has disconnected the CSV hose from the fuel rail and plugged the fuel rail outlet - it was obviously starting okay without the CSV... Should I reinstate it?
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Re: Cold start injector fuel hose- the 'little perisher'

Post by hornhospital »

The old rule "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" applies, but I'd make very sure the cap-and-plug job is solid. You don't want that leaking/blowing off. :shock:
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Re: Cold start injector fuel hose- the 'little perisher'

Post by Jim Con »

Just replaced this hose and this is how I did it.

On the new hose I split the CSI end in 2 places about 3/8" from the end with a razor blade and put a hose clamp about 1/2 inch back from the cuts.
The split allowed me to center the hose on the plastic nipple.Also the $3.99 11" Harbor Freight pliers with the angled tips helped to center it.
Then I wedged a large flat head screwdriver on the hose clamp head and levered it toward the nipple till the end of the splits were all the way on the nipple.
Then I trimmed the split ends of the hose with a razor blade and used a screwdriver to rotate the hose clamp and the hose so I could trim both split ends.
Then it was back to leveraging the hose clamp with the big screwdriver so the now unslpit end of the hose was all the way on the nipple.

Tightened the hose clamp and I was done, no leaks.
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Re: Cold start injector fuel hose- the 'little perisher'

Post by Pod »

Jim Con wrote: Sat Apr 27, 2019 12:39 am Just replaced this hose and this is how I did it.

On the new hose I split the CSI end in 2 places about 3/8" from the end with a razor blade and put a hose clamp about 1/2 inch back from the cuts.
The split allowed me to center the hose on the plastic nipple.Also the $3.99 11" Harbor Freight pliers with the angled tips helped to center it.
Then I wedged a large flat head screwdriver on the hose clamp head and levered it toward the nipple till the end of the splits were all the way on the nipple.
Then I trimmed the split ends of the hose with a razor blade and used a screwdriver to rotate the hose clamp and the hose so I could trim both split ends.
Then it was back to leveraging the hose clamp with the big screwdriver so the now unslpit end of the hose was all the way on the nipple.

Tightened the hose clamp and I was done, no leaks.

Good thinking :wink:
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Re: Cold start injector fuel hose- the 'little perisher'

Post by 635csiSyd »

Talk about a picture being worth a thousand words,

I just spent ages with the car on the hoist wondering how I was going to get at the CSI end of this hose up under the inlet manifold ( really who would ever have thought that was a good place for it !!!!) ...take off oil filter, remove that bracket , loosen that clamped hose etc etc all from under car then I saw the photos with the inlet plastic hose etc removed took me 20 mins still an unbelievable amount of time to loosen 2 hose clamps replace hose and tighten, but way easier than I thought it would be.
thanks for the photos :)
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Re: Cold start injector fuel hose- the 'little perisher'

Post by Jim Con »

I forgot the part about getting the old clamp off.
I put a long narrow tip flathead screwdriver in the grooves on the clamp and tapped it around so I could unscrew it.
Be careful on this, you don't care about the old clamp or hose but the 8mm nipple is PLASTIC!
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