In what is rapidly devolving into the clutch from hell, the tranny now won't release from the engine. Lower half will give slightly, but not the top.
I'm assuming the locarlting pin near the starter is frozen in but everyone must have to deal with this?
The starter is now out as the rocking of the tranny had it give way.
No luck with help from clutch slave.
Any and all ideas welcomed.
Thx
Mike
Tranny stuck to engine
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- Ralph in Socal
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Re: Tranny stuck to engine
Replied to your PM
Ralph
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Re: Tranny stuck to engine
Thank you Ralph. Hidden valley bolt it was. Totally my fault as I had repeatedly blindly put a socket exactly on that bolt while trying to remove the one immediately towards the passenger side of that one and then forgotten all about it.
I do not look forward to the reinstall. One thing all clutch threads should note is that the starter doesn't have to be removed at all, at least in my case. The starter bolts only threaded into the motor. Fooling with that cost many hours and will cost more going back in. I may look for the smaller starter only to spare myself the pain if the top starter bolt!
I do not look forward to the reinstall. One thing all clutch threads should note is that the starter doesn't have to be removed at all, at least in my case. The starter bolts only threaded into the motor. Fooling with that cost many hours and will cost more going back in. I may look for the smaller starter only to spare myself the pain if the top starter bolt!
- Ralph in Socal
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Re: Tranny stuck to engine
Install prep:
Check trans input shaft goes into pilot bearing before installing the bearing to the crank. Same with clutch disc on to the splines
Replace clutch fork pivot pin. Push old pin out from behind, outside the trans
Using a clutch alignment tool is no guarantee that the disc is lined up properly. The plastic align tool will allow the disc to sag during tightening up of the pressure plate. Visually verify it is as centered as possible.
Lightly grease the throw put bearing guide tube as well as the clutch fork where the TO bearing sits and at the new pin
Put the trans in first or second gear before attempting install. This will allow you to turn the input shaft by turning the output flange so that you can line up the clutch disc splines
Ralph
Check trans input shaft goes into pilot bearing before installing the bearing to the crank. Same with clutch disc on to the splines
Replace clutch fork pivot pin. Push old pin out from behind, outside the trans
Using a clutch alignment tool is no guarantee that the disc is lined up properly. The plastic align tool will allow the disc to sag during tightening up of the pressure plate. Visually verify it is as centered as possible.
Lightly grease the throw put bearing guide tube as well as the clutch fork where the TO bearing sits and at the new pin
Put the trans in first or second gear before attempting install. This will allow you to turn the input shaft by turning the output flange so that you can line up the clutch disc splines
Ralph
There is a very fine line between "Hobby" and Mental Illness.
85 635csi Zinno Auto
84 528i Euro
83 635 Euro Arktik
81 528i Kastanien 5-speed
88 528e Bronzit (Granpa Car)
86 535i Auto (For Sale)
81 633 csi (retired)
85 635csi Zinno Auto
84 528i Euro
83 635 Euro Arktik
81 528i Kastanien 5-speed
88 528e Bronzit (Granpa Car)
86 535i Auto (For Sale)
81 633 csi (retired)
- Ralph in Socal
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Re: Tranny stuck to engine
I used a lift with a high lift trans jack to do the e24. Recently I did my e12 motor install while the trans was in place. That was a real PITA
Ralph
Ralph
There is a very fine line between "Hobby" and Mental Illness.
85 635csi Zinno Auto
84 528i Euro
83 635 Euro Arktik
81 528i Kastanien 5-speed
88 528e Bronzit (Granpa Car)
86 535i Auto (For Sale)
81 633 csi (retired)
85 635csi Zinno Auto
84 528i Euro
83 635 Euro Arktik
81 528i Kastanien 5-speed
88 528e Bronzit (Granpa Car)
86 535i Auto (For Sale)
81 633 csi (retired)
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Re: Tranny stuck to engine
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96-MB C220 SOLD
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Re: Tranny stuck to engine
Lucky enough to have access to a real lift. Having done many jobs on my back in the driveway, kudos to others who said that have done this job that way.
Killer advice on the prefit. Will do as nothing has gone according too plan yet!
Near as I can tell, the car was on the original clutch at just over a 100k miles. Not terribly worn but hopefully this job relieves what I found to be pretty high clutch effort.
Seals, Pilot bearing and all throw out hardware is being replaced. Why wouldn't you? Good info in the pivot pin though mine was plastic with modest signs of wear and will be replaced with plastic and came right out with strategically applied vise grips as the grime covered any through visibility in the rear. IS the Bosch SR441X the preferred smaller starter of choice?
My pilot bearing puller was too big, so off this am to procure a 1/2 inch unit. That said I haven't seen a "bearing keeper" like this before. Can be seen inside the flywheel. Sort of a washer that sits out between the bearing and the rest of the input shaft?
fingers crossed for some real progress today.
Killer advice on the prefit. Will do as nothing has gone according too plan yet!
Near as I can tell, the car was on the original clutch at just over a 100k miles. Not terribly worn but hopefully this job relieves what I found to be pretty high clutch effort.
Seals, Pilot bearing and all throw out hardware is being replaced. Why wouldn't you? Good info in the pivot pin though mine was plastic with modest signs of wear and will be replaced with plastic and came right out with strategically applied vise grips as the grime covered any through visibility in the rear. IS the Bosch SR441X the preferred smaller starter of choice?
My pilot bearing puller was too big, so off this am to procure a 1/2 inch unit. That said I haven't seen a "bearing keeper" like this before. Can be seen inside the flywheel. Sort of a washer that sits out between the bearing and the rest of the input shaft?
fingers crossed for some real progress today.