Hi, can anyone help....
Took the 6 out for a drive, fine when cold, as soon as it started to warm up, could not - would not rev, major loss of power...
Limped home, nearly got there had to get the wife to tow me home...
My mechanic came to get it, it is now in his workshop, he has suggested it is either the AFM or the ECU, because he can manually get it running right by adjusting (shoving his finger in to AFM) by hand the AFM Flappy bit at the front...
Does any body have any ideas.......or does anybody have one I could buy or borrow to eliminate this part from the enquiries...????
My car is 82 635 Csi Vin No WBAEC4202C5586092
Chassis number 5586092
Vehicle code 5342
Series E24
Model 635CSi
Body type coupe
Catalog model ECE
Production date 1981 / 12
Engine M30
Transmission Automatic
Steering Right
Catalyzer NONE
This production run stopped at 5586143 in March 82 so I think your car is in the 51st from last RHD E12 based 635. (thanks m3cecotto for that info)
Please help.......Colin
Major mechanical meltdown!!
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
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sohlman
sounds similar to a problem that had me vexed for some time. It is probable one of two things.
Either the fuel pump relays of which there are two. They cost peanuts to fix Approx cost ?5-10 per relay
Or the engine sensors. Again they are two and as long as they don't shear off when you take them out this is easy to fix. Approx cost ?30-40 per sensor.
With my car it ran well whilst it was cold and then once up to full operating temperature the car would cut out if any throttle was applied and left me stranded. Turned out to be the engine sensor mounted on the side of the gearbox thats sends a pulse to the ECU and thus AFM.
Another possible problem could be that your distributer cap has had it. This in the past has also caused a similar problem and was a result of an over tightened screw that had cracked the cap and had allowed moisuture inside thus ruining the carbon contact.
Hope this helps
James
Either the fuel pump relays of which there are two. They cost peanuts to fix Approx cost ?5-10 per relay
Or the engine sensors. Again they are two and as long as they don't shear off when you take them out this is easy to fix. Approx cost ?30-40 per sensor.
With my car it ran well whilst it was cold and then once up to full operating temperature the car would cut out if any throttle was applied and left me stranded. Turned out to be the engine sensor mounted on the side of the gearbox thats sends a pulse to the ECU and thus AFM.
Another possible problem could be that your distributer cap has had it. This in the past has also caused a similar problem and was a result of an over tightened screw that had cracked the cap and had allowed moisuture inside thus ruining the carbon contact.
Hope this helps
James
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82csi635
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ScottAndrews
Is this a Motronic car, or an L-Jet? It's hard to tell from the year since it is transitional.
If it is an L-Jet, then all the talk of engine sensors is not relevant.
Since you have your mechanic working on it this is probably moot, but here are my thoughts... Since it ran cold OK, and then went south when it warmed up, I would look at things associated with temperature (sensible...)
There are two primary temeperature sensors. The coolant sensor and the thermo time switch. If the thermo time switch is bad, then it MAY cause the systyem to keep flooding the engine with gas..althogh it should not do this if the key ins noi tin the start position. If the coolant sensor is bad, then it may simply have the ECU thinking the engine is cold. This is like driving around in a carbed car with the choke on.
Lastly, it might simply be a leaking cold start injector (If you have an L-jet).
S
If it is an L-Jet, then all the talk of engine sensors is not relevant.
Since you have your mechanic working on it this is probably moot, but here are my thoughts... Since it ran cold OK, and then went south when it warmed up, I would look at things associated with temperature (sensible...)
There are two primary temeperature sensors. The coolant sensor and the thermo time switch. If the thermo time switch is bad, then it MAY cause the systyem to keep flooding the engine with gas..althogh it should not do this if the key ins noi tin the start position. If the coolant sensor is bad, then it may simply have the ECU thinking the engine is cold. This is like driving around in a carbed car with the choke on.
Lastly, it might simply be a leaking cold start injector (If you have an L-jet).
S
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82csi635
Thanks Scott,
My Mech is diagnostic testing the fuel system at the moment...
The AFM checked out ok, working fine........
Next up are the sensors and ECU... so we will have to wait and see..
Limited funds means that he can only work on it as an when he is able!!!
So maybe a while yet...
Thank for the info.
Colin.........
My Mech is diagnostic testing the fuel system at the moment...
The AFM checked out ok, working fine........
Next up are the sensors and ECU... so we will have to wait and see..
Limited funds means that he can only work on it as an when he is able!!!
So maybe a while yet...
Thank for the info.
Colin.........
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ScottAndrews
You still didn't say if it is L-Jet ot Motronic.
The easiset way to tell this is by the intake manifold. on the l-Jet, the inake runners are separate tubes (see pic of my l-jet car). On the Motronic, the intake is one piece and it sort of covers up the left sid eof the engine.
If it is a Motronic car, then many more things can go wrong.
ECU, Crank sensor, nuerous relays, etc. The L-Jet is very simple and easy to diagnose.
I would still look at the coolant sensors and thermo time swtich. These are mounted at the top front of the engine on the top of the thermostat housing. They can wreak havoc on the EFI system, and they are relatively cheap. In fact, at the risk of wasting your money, it might be cheaper to buy some replacements and simply try them. The cost of doing this is probably less than paying your mechanic to sleuth around for an hour.
Let me know on the L-Jet/Motronic quesiton.
S
The easiset way to tell this is by the intake manifold. on the l-Jet, the inake runners are separate tubes (see pic of my l-jet car). On the Motronic, the intake is one piece and it sort of covers up the left sid eof the engine.
If it is a Motronic car, then many more things can go wrong.
ECU, Crank sensor, nuerous relays, etc. The L-Jet is very simple and easy to diagnose.
I would still look at the coolant sensors and thermo time swtich. These are mounted at the top front of the engine on the top of the thermostat housing. They can wreak havoc on the EFI system, and they are relatively cheap. In fact, at the risk of wasting your money, it might be cheaper to buy some replacements and simply try them. The cost of doing this is probably less than paying your mechanic to sleuth around for an hour.
Let me know on the L-Jet/Motronic quesiton.
S
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82csi635
Thanks Scott, my engine looks nothing like yours from the AFM to the block, definately not separate runners, so Im assuming that it is a Motronic..
I think you are right about buying the coolant sensor and the thermo time switch and just replacing them!! Will check out cost on Monday with my local stealer and then at a motor discount factor!!!
My mech is ok he just works on it when he can, inbetween real (read more expensive) paying work, so i get v.cheap rates :)
Thanks for the ideas, we are just waiting for a fuel pressure regulator thingy from BMW, because his normal parts supplier did not stock it, has taken nearly a week already!!!
I must just say what a beautiful engine bay you have there!! took my breath away, if I can get mine halfway looking as good as that, i will be more than pleased.....!!
Colin
I think you are right about buying the coolant sensor and the thermo time switch and just replacing them!! Will check out cost on Monday with my local stealer and then at a motor discount factor!!!
My mech is ok he just works on it when he can, inbetween real (read more expensive) paying work, so i get v.cheap rates :)
Thanks for the ideas, we are just waiting for a fuel pressure regulator thingy from BMW, because his normal parts supplier did not stock it, has taken nearly a week already!!!
I must just say what a beautiful engine bay you have there!! took my breath away, if I can get mine halfway looking as good as that, i will be more than pleased.....!!
Colin
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ScottAndrews
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joe
engine bay
well done scott, its the only way to do it , with the engine out, nice colour
...joe
...joe
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82csi635
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82csi635
On going saga!!
Spoke to mechanic today reckons "fuel pressure regulator" gone, he already ordered one from BMW (AAAHHHH) took a week to get here and he wants to charge me ?47 for it??? 
He has already fitted it and apparently everything running fine now!!!
Is ?47 about right for a Fuel pressure regulator valve thingy or not?? :?
I won't get the actual invoice untill next week, because he is now sorting out my binding rear brakes, lets hope he does'nt buy and more bits from BMW............
Colin........
He has already fitted it and apparently everything running fine now!!!
Is ?47 about right for a Fuel pressure regulator valve thingy or not?? :?
I won't get the actual invoice untill next week, because he is now sorting out my binding rear brakes, lets hope he does'nt buy and more bits from BMW............
Colin........
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ScottAndrews
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82csi635