E24 engine swaps

Post here for mechanical and engine topics such as fuel issues, transmission problems, rough idle, exhaust, electrical issues, etc

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Finally6

Post by Finally6 »

raffi91 wrote:Another angle
my question is where does the hoses on the right side come from and go??
raffi91

Post by raffi91 »

Do you mean the hose connected to the air filter? That goes to the back of the SC and feeds into the throttle body.
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sharkfan
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Post by sharkfan »

Finally6 wrote:
raffi91 wrote:Another angle
my question is where does the hoses on the right side come from and go??
I'm guessing an intercooler somewhere in the depths of the shark-nose ???

Sharkfan
raffi91

Post by raffi91 »

Ya im sure he mounted one near the oil cooler
dailydriver

Post by dailydriver »

uh, oh... gonna revive this topic. i've owned a couple of V12's: a '92 750iL and a '98 750iL, as well as a '99 540i6. by far the most fun is in the 4.4L V8. the V12 was neat to own and hold but didn't flip my gidgets...

also, a comment on maintenance on the "1st gen" e32 V12: you've probably heard it before but it was just two 6-cylinder engines strapped together. one of the fun features is that it had TWO of the $100 distributor caps commonly found on my M30 3.2L, e.g. and changing them was an issue of patience as everything was ity bitty small clearance.

bottom line, i not only enjoy working on (and being able to fit in the engine compartment with) my M30, it's relatively cheap to maintain. i've come to appreciate a lack of Pentium-era electronics. as frustrating as 20-year-old electrical problems can be at least most are known...

as for a thread-relevant reply: go for the M30b35! more growl... still lots of room in the engine compartment, even with a blower.
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Brucey
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Post by Brucey »

I have been wondering about fitting the battery in the boot and using the space for a Rotrex (or similar) blower; these are very small, and from an airbox just above would outlet nicely to a cross-front intercooler, then back into the TB in the usual (ish ) way.....

Yeah, the M30 is a tough old bird and right now as cheap as chips in the scrappies; this will not last!

cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Sixer Kid

Post by The Sixer Kid »

Brucey wrote:I have been wondering about fitting the battery in the boot
I did this using some 2 gauge wire and some metal straps. It freed up the front left corner of the space under the hood so I can mount the aftermarket ignition box.
dailydriver

Post by dailydriver »

thesixerkid wrote:
Brucey wrote:I have been wondering about fitting the battery in the boot
I did this using some 2 gauge wire and some metal straps. It freed up the front left corner of the space under the hood so I can mount the aftermarket ignition box.
Did you put this in the DIY? Which side of the car and how did you insulate your 2GA? What existing holes did you use? Did you run under the car?
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Brucey
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Post by Brucey »

-oh, and is there a slick way of making the connections without making it irreversible? I can do all this stuff but I'd hate to see a slicker way of doing it after I chop my wiring up into pieces needlessly....

Also a battery isolation switch in the cabin seems like a good idea....

cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Sixer Kid

Post by The Sixer Kid »

dailydriver wrote: Did you put this in the DIY?
No
dailydriver wrote: Which side of the car and how did you insulate your 2GA? What existing holes did you use? Did you run under the car?
The battery is in the middle of the trunk, strapped to the back wall.

The cable was already insulated but on the spots that I had to splice, I used lots of heat shrink wrap and heavy duty electrical tape. The wires are run on the bottom side of the car. I maintained a positive terminal in the engine bay for jump starting purposes. The cable runs up through the spare wheel well. There are holes already drilled for the SLS system (removed) so its was a piece of cake.
The Sixer Kid

Post by The Sixer Kid »

Brucey wrote:-oh, and is there a slick way of making the connections without making it irreversible? I can do all this stuff but I'd hate to see a slicker way of doing it after I chop my wiring up into pieces needlessly....
Everything on my car is completely reversible. I could move the battery back up to engine bay in about 15-20 minutes.


I'll post up some shots when I get back to CA in a couple weeks.
german performance inc

Post by german performance inc »

i salvaged everything from an e30 325 ,battery cable, junction block ,jump post for the front and an additional jump post setup from e32 in the rear, so the battery is hid and my audio amplifiers power up from the jump post in the rear , because with the sub woofer enclosure in the trunk the battery is a PITA to get to without the jump post
mbourland1

Post by mbourland1 »

The M70 V12 is 2 M30s that share a crank, as far as harness intergration, if you have a complete car...as I do, the harness is all there. I think im going to give it a shot! let you guys know how it goes
german performance inc

Post by german performance inc »

dont forget .......pictures and a kot of them......dont cheat us :D
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Jordanmilos
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Supercharger

Post by Jordanmilos »

While I was in Germany, I came across a 535i which had a Eaton M90 unit in place of the AC compressor. I've seen a cleaner setup than the one Raffi posted and pulled dimensions off of the bracket that was made, still looking for time to pop one out of the CNC mill but real work keeps getting in the way. The Eaton unit is the chapest, you can usually get a whole setup from the Thunderbird Supercoupes for about $400. A Vortech V1 would do nicely, around $1500 on average before you take care of piping and fueling.
I can see the points from both sides. Turbocharging has become very easy considering you can buy a kit and everything is already there for you. I do like the idea of a supercharged M60 6 speed E24. The ESS supercharger kit is over 6K new but I've seen them go for half on feebay. So, 2k for the engine, 1.5K for the tranny, 1.5K for the electricals and bracketry, 3K for the supercharger kit and a good amount of time. Last time I had a driveshaft modified to a custom spec it cost me $450. I would think 9 thousand dollars would put out a V8 E24 with around 420hp and a six speed. Fun in my book and very few can say they have the same thing.
Mind you I do have a welder, a couple of engineers and a machinist who are more than willing to help me out so if you're having a shop put it in, you can forget about it. I can see it costing 20K to make it work.
Big Bore Throttle Bodies, Gauge Kits, and more.... No more actually.
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