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633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

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tschultz
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Fri Aug 26, 2016 1:51 pm

So the last few days I was getting the car ready for MS2 install. Below is what I did:

1. Remove and replace harmonic balancer with 60-2 from B35. Replaced old sensor and bracket with the new one. Checked clearances to the wheel and all looked good.

2. While I had the front end apart, I removed the AC condenser, compressor, and lines in the front. I realized I wasn't going to retrofit to R12 and why bother having all of those parts in the way.

3. I removed the AFM and reinstalled the Callaway manifold with the IAT sensor in place. I wired up the sensor to the AFM connector.

4. I removed the 2.5bar FPR and reinstalled the 3.0. Then I removed the RRFPR and put a fuel accumulator in place of it.

5. I replaced the 24lb injectors with new 42lb injectors (BOSCH 0280155968). My tune Req_fuel setting is 8.8 with these injectors.

6. I replaced the 3 pin TPS with the M30B35 vTPS. After connecting the MS2 unit, I was able to rewire it and then verify proper operation.

7. I connected the MAP signal (vacuum tube) to the back of the MS2 unit.

8. I put my wideband AEM UEGO in P00 mode and connected it to the MS2 via the stock harness. In MS2, I set it for this sensor and verified that the readings matched.

9. I connected the wiring of the VR sensor to the speed sensor input. My unit came with a harness that seemed to plug in directly. From what I understand, polarity does not matter on this signal.

10. So then I supplied power and found that the ICV was buzzing and getting power. I check and IAT sensor is sending a good signal. AFR signal is good; CLT temp appears good. TPS was configured and calibrated.

I cranked and noticed that the car was getting an rpm input signal. unfortunately the car did not start. I tried a few more times but still nothing.

So I went back through the MS FAQ here on the forums and changed my idle settings to that of Shawn D. Unfortunately this did not do it either. It had been getting sort of late so I decided to take a break for the night. I didn't get a catch like it was even close to starting.


So the next day, I checked the wiring on my TPS and found that I had it incorrect. I have it fixed and all is working smoothly now.

I also updated firmware and now open up tunerstudio and the current tune in the updated format.

Unfortunately I am still having a starting issue, even after using Elcrazon's tune. I checked for spark and found that I am NOT getting spark. So i checked the wiring to the coil and I am not getting power there during cranking.



Looks like I need to double check power through the ignition switch to the coil wire and verify the ground is good. From what I am seeing, it takes power directly through the ignition on crank. If I am not getting spark because of lack of 12V power, this would seem to be the only possible cause. I will investigate tonight.

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Is there a setting that that I may be missing in tunerstudio? OR maybe a jumper on the MS2 board? I'll do some reading...

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by davem6 » Fri Aug 26, 2016 9:12 pm

You should have a 12V supply onto one side of the ignition coil with the ignition both on and engine cranking. Without this it will never start. If you do not have this the problem is nothing to do with the MS2. If you do have this and the MS2 is not pulsing the other supply of the coil to ground then it is something to do with the MS2. How did you connect the main earth connections (pin numbers 16-19) from the MS2 to the chassis of the car, make sure these are sound. I assume you have these manuals.
http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS2 ... e-3.4.html
Does your fuel pump get a start signal when cranking?
1987 M6
NSW Australia

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tschultz
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Fri Aug 26, 2016 10:53 pm

Thanks Dave.

I checked again tonight and I do have signal at the green wire on the coil.

The fuel pump did used to prime for 2 seconds on the old firmware but doesn't on the new. Also after not starting I do register an AFR, so I know fuel is getting in. double checked when pulling spark plug...

Just confused on where to check for spark info on the MS system. Will do more reading from that link regarding spark...

All of my hardware like coil and wires worked before with M1.0.

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Tue Sep 13, 2016 1:56 am

Waiting for Peter F to get me my MS2 unit back, i decided to review some photos from D4C. If you didn't already see, there's some video footage in the 2016 D4C event video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_01-wKaOe0


But I also got some photos of the car on the long return route home. We took US 550 from Durango along the Million Dollar Highway (some of the footage in the above video is from that route) to Ouray. It isn't the best driving road as there isn't much passing space but it is very scenic and there are quite a few cliffs without guard rails.

The two sharks at Wolf Creek Pass. The other is a true euro 633CSi, very early production in 1976. He actually showed me something with the original headlights-- they had the VIN stamped into the glass. He had only one remaining original headlight. Avery rare color too.

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On our extended drive, we made a stop in Purgatory... let me tell you it is not so bad with a group of BMW enthusiasts!

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Looking over the historic mining town of Silverton

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My headlight got busted on the way up Wolf Creek Pass. Poor euro lens :( :x

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We did some dirt road driving. The dirt road and billowing dust was the most awesome I have ever driven. Didn't get good pictures of it, but got a neat one of my friend's M5.

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Intercooler is visible. But i sure did get a lot of rock chips on my spoiler this trip!

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Overlooking the Land's End observatory of Grand Mesa.

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Thu Sep 15, 2016 1:20 pm

Waiting on getting my ms2 unit back from Peter F, who found an incomplete connection to the spark output pin. He's going to repair it and install a mapdaddy sensor for on the fly barometric correction when I drive into the mountains.

In the mean time, I decided to mess with my air box. I really didn't like the cone that I had on the car, but I didn't have many alternatives as it didn't fit in the car with the Callaway kit. Fortunately, with the megasquirt I am removing the AFM and using an IAT sensor instead. When I started looking, I realized that i can finally put a stock airbox back on the car. I got this one and have had it sitting around with the intention of installing.

The main reason being some infared images I saw on this board back when I joined the forum. I have saved them for reference:
Its thermal sensor is 320x240. The camera is professional level designed mainly for industrial work. My buddy uses it to do diagnosing of electrical connections and equipment in commercial and industrial buildings.
Its range is -40°C To +2,000°C, thermal sensitivity 0.08°

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The second picture illustrates how good the stock airbox is. I'm not sure if the car is idling or in heat soak, but either way, it works very well.

I adjusted the turbo inlet height and position of the elbow/coupling so that it would align a little better. I mocked up the air box using a bracket I had laying around, the positioning is slightly forward of stock, but the hood still closes and now the air filter is more secured than ever before.

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I also like that it makes the engine bay look more stock. Now when I pop the hood, it will be less obvious that the car is turbocharged.

Here you can see the diverter valve and piping, along with the placement of the IAT sensor. I didn't even have to adjust the hole where the 7th injector used to be. The bore was very close to an NPS tap drill, so all we had to do was to tap it 3/8" NPS. I think this works better than a bung as it places the sensor closer to the center of the intake pipe.

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The engine bay is looking so much better than it had been. This air box helped, along with removing the extra wiring for the Callaway Microfueler.
Oh yeah, I also removed AC components in the engine bay as I realized I wouldn't be converting it ever. I did this when I put the 60-2 toothed wheel a few weeks back. I had to remove the radiator, but otherwise it was pretty simple. I haven't removed the parts under the dash, but I still removed probably 45 lbs of weight.

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Mon Sep 26, 2016 2:11 pm

9/24:
I got the Ms2 back and had some time to mess with settings. It fired up with Elcrazon's tune but I had to adjust Warmup inrichment and afterstart enrichment. It also seemed that my idle settings needed some adjustment.

My brother and I adjusted the the spark timing enough so that it wouldn't totally die and got to a point where it was able to idle and not hunt. A few things I need to resolve though:

1. Noisy signals. The CLT, TPS and AFR #'s all jump around a lot when the car gets running. I realize this was happening before megasquirt as the AFR's never seemed to settle out. Any comments here? I checked grounds at the battery/chassis, head/firewall and head/wire harness (the only 3 major ones I know of) and they all look good... Any thoughts here?


2. No tach signal on instrument cluster. I read this on E30's about jumping the engine speed output to the cluster:
the engine speed output and gives the instrument cluster the signal for the tachometer. This must be jumped to pin #32, the fuel consumption output, whichgives the cluster the signal for the econogauge
I also read about an inline resistor. Anybody been through this?

9/25

I added some lag factors for now until I can get it sorted. It seems the TPS and AFR have the most noise so I will have to try to shield the TPS wiring or rewire power and ground to my AFR sensor.

I adjusted the warmup and after start enrichment and was able to get the car to start better at my elevation. I tried it this morning in 55F and it started right up. I did some reading and changed the Idle value to "Use last vale" instead of use table. This made a big difference in removing the idle hunting that I had.

Now my idle returns to about 1100rpm and takes about 6-8 seconds to activate CL Idle mode and drop to my target of 850-900rpm. I found this engine with motronic always seemed to idle higher than my 535i, so I'm ok with it.


Regarding the tach, does this sound right?
From my research of following the quote in my last post, I need to tap into Pin 11 of my motronic harness (white wire, fuel output) and connect it to the white/black wire for the tach input:
Image


I'll try to share a video by this weekend. I am working on the base map without EGO control. With windows up I could hear some detonation/pinging with a hybrid of your tune and the FAQ ignition timing. I suspect it is related to 85octane we have here. I have removed 5-8 degrees and will continue refining. The plan is to have it ready in about 3 weeks for another track day

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Tue Oct 04, 2016 4:37 pm

I have been driving the car, but still haven't figured out the tach. The C103 signal is connected and should be bringing the output to the tach. I don't know where my tach output pin is as there appear to be a few different outputs possible. If I change my 'tacho output' from IGN (JS10), the car won't start.

I have been getting pinging with 87 octane as I approach 120-140kPa. I assume the TCD chip was super retarded as I never had this issue before. I keep removing a few degrees at a time and my map seems very conservative compared to others I have seen. I am very close to getting the full premium (91 oct here) and tuning on that fuel instead.

This is with the TCD turbo, 41lb injectors (req fuel=8.7), and a small intercooler.
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I haven't really been able to tune above that 140kPa range yet but am fairly happy with the other zones (at 70-80 F). When I drive home from work, the uncorrected EGO values are very close to my targets since this is what I have tuned. However, I get to the next morning and on my way into work, the whole range of the ve map seems to be richer than the day before. It is definitely related to temperature. I want to get a handle on this so the EGO correction doesn't have to do so much work. I have found a few threads elsewhere with similar issues but no real solutions. I have been playing with the MAT corrections and this is what I have so far.
I'm not sure it is what I want as it seems I can adjust the table slightly and AFR's come close to target in vacuum but then I think the correction compounds and removes too much fuel under boost. I may just set this table to 100%, I'm not sure yet.

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I had an issue the last few days where I was losing coolant. I was hoping this didn't mean headgasket :x Last night I noticed one of the water pump hoses wet with coolant. Not any dripping, but evidence of coolant turning to the green goo on the end of the hose. I also found some wet spots in the engine bay, again no drips. I'm hoping readjusting that clamp fixes my leak. I really want to get the car to the next track day Oct 16!

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by captain awesome » Tue Oct 04, 2016 5:25 pm

Could be a pinhole developing on one of the hoses. The longer upper hose on mine had a slight weep I couldn't easily trace but as soon as I squeezed the hose a pinhole started squirting fluid. It wasn't obvious to the naked eye though.
84 633csi 5 spd

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by davem6 » Wed Oct 05, 2016 9:55 am

tschultz wrote:9/24:

2. No tach signal on instrument cluster. I read this on E30's about jumping the engine speed output to the cluster:
the engine speed output and gives the instrument cluster the signal for the tachometer. This must be jumped to pin #32, the fuel consumption output, whichgives the cluster the signal for the econogauge
I also read about an inline resistor. Anybody been through this?

9/25


Regarding the tach, does this sound right?
From my research of following the quote in my last post, I need to tap into Pin 11 of my motronic harness (white wire, fuel output) and connect it to the white/black wire for the tach input:
Image
I don't think this is correct. The 83 633 ETM shows the tacho connected to pin 1 of the Motronic, directly to the coil. Pages 113 and 118 here http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/1983% ... Manual.pdf
1987 M6
NSW Australia

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Wed Oct 05, 2016 11:11 am

Great point Dave, thanks for finding that! Here's where I am getting hung up:

The original harness and ecu sent a tach output signal to the cluster through C103 black wire. The signal came from the ECU (008) pin 1. This signal also connected to the Coil- black wire.

I changed the engine/harness, so the new ECU (059) sends Coil- through pin 1 (but not to the cluster). It uses a separate pin 21 (blue/black wire) to send the tachometer signal through C103 to the cluster. This signal was all working properly on the ECU I had in the car before the megasquirt install.

When I change MS "Tacho Output", the car won't start. So I am sending coil signal properly from the MS2 to the coil via IGN.

What I am assume this means is that the signal is not reaching the instrument cluster. I may try disconnecting C103 to see if the car starts without it. If it does, I will try bridging the black coil- wire (or the blue/black wire from the ecu pin 21) to the black cluster wire to see if that solves the problem.

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Mon Oct 10, 2016 1:03 pm

So another update.

The good news is that I was able to get the tach working by connecting the coil to the black wire to the cluster. I did have to disconnect the blue/black (that leads back to the MS unit) as it would cause the car to die when I connected the wires.


I drove around the block and afterwards noticed the dipstick popped up and oil spray all over that side of the engine. Upon further inspection, the breather screen I have is smoking much more than I ever remember before. One last check and pulling the oil cap I no longer have vacuum at idle in the head, it is also smoking out at idle.
The leaking I was getting was related to the dipstick. For some reason I have a lot more blow by all of the sudden and the breather I had on the valve cover wasn't venting well enough so the dipstick kept popping up to relieve the pressure.

I removed the breather and just ran a length of hose out to atmosphere. The dipstick isn't popping up any more, but it just seems to be smoking more than it should be out of the valve cover breather. I don't really want to plumb this breather back into the intake as I don't want the oily mess in the intercooler and charge piping...
I'm not getting any smoke out the exhaust, nor am I getting milkshake color in the oil or coolant.

I took a video to show you guys and see if you have any further thoughts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAiu5jg3e68

My blow off valve and turbo noises coincidentally seemed to get a little louder with this development. I didn't used to be able to hear the turbo spooling up at all, only a slight high pitched whine at 6+psi if the windows were open.

Either way, you can distinctly hear the BOV and turbo spooling now with the windows up (right atmospheric). Here's a short clip: https://youtu.be/QOxR25wHvE8

I am worried about the blowby and will have to do a compression check and determine what's going on... It seems like it may be a cylinder with bad piston rings or somehow a headgasket that isn't really consuming liquids. :cry:

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by hornhospital » Mon Oct 10, 2016 1:41 pm

My money's on blow-by (rings).
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'87 325is "Odette"; '93 325is "Elvira"

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Fri Apr 28, 2017 3:43 pm

If you recall, I was having some issues with the engine in the car. It still ran fine, but leaking oil and crankcase pressure meant that I didn't want to keep running the engine.


I was in and out of jobs and had some spare time to buckle down. So with some coordination, I was able to drive the car down to my brothers place and work on it. There was a hoist there as well as my spare engine block and head assembled (M30B34 US). So on Monday I drove down there and got to work in swapping the engine.


He pulled the engine out and left me an empty garage.
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the replacement
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It had been sitting a while and I blew out the pieces with compressed air later when I took the oil pan off.

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Somebody was having issues when this engine was retired!

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By the end of the work day Monday I had the turbo manifold off and the engine ready to be pulled. So when my brother came home, we commenced progress with the pull.

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Thant's a heavy mother
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And I got it out by the end of Monday after almost 10 hours. The turbo bit removal made it take longer!

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So the next day I had to switch parts over. Almost everything had to move to the new engine .Starting with the oil pan.

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This wasn't encouraging to find in the oil pan. Notice that the there is a JIC nipple on the pan. Was this engine turbo'd in the past???

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I really got after it and forgot to take photos along the way. I swapped the thermostat assembly, intake manifold assembly, alternator, oil filter housing (and changed the oil), cap and rotor/spark plugs, and continued with harmonic balancer, clutch/flywheel and VR sensor. Lastly, mated the 265 to the engine. So after I got the trans mated, I remembered to grab the camera. It looks the same, but this is the new engine assembled.

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I also spent some time adding in the lines for my brake bias valve. I have front and rear separated now, and this car doesn't have ABS. Ready for the brake valve when it arrives. I bled the brakes and got air out of the system which took a little while.

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That night my brother came home around 5pm and was able to help me put the assembled engine set into the car. Luckily we were able to get it to fit and resting in the car for the night. I didn't take any pictures but nothing was hooked up to mate the engine to the car.


That brings us to yesterday where I returned to his garage to reconnect the engine and hopefully get it running. It took a long time to get things reconnected to the engine, but once that was done, I was able to try to start the car without an exhaust. I wanted to make sure any junk in the cylinders wouldn't get into the turbo.

After adding oil and coolant, I cranked it. After remembering to hook up the spark plug wires :oops: it fired up for a few seconds until I turned it off. So i finished hooking up the trans and driveshaft with some extra motivation.

It took all day once again, but just as my brother got home from work I worked on the last bit, reinstalling the turbo. This took an hour and a half but can be done by slightly lifting the engine and dropping it in from the top in front.

Finally at about 7 I was reassembling piping. I was in a rush to finish, so sorry that I didn't get photos. Unfortunately I found that the turbo inlet was block by the engine mounting arm! After trying to force it and realizing there was interference, we got smart and pulled off the mounting arm and taking the one from the old engine since we know it fit. It was in fact different (4 bolts vs 3). But the 4 bolt mount still would work since the engine had 3 threaded bosses in the right spots. Once we swapped that, everything fit back together and we tried starting it up. It fired and I let it idle and bleed. After a successful test drive, I took it home and made it no problem!

The O2 cable had popped off so I wasn't getting signal in MS2, but I fixed that this morning. I still have a lot of noise and I am wondering where it is coming from .Thinking back it still did this with M1.0 I am not sure where to start-- I don't really want to cut up the VR sensor.


So today I decided to change the lag factors in the megasquirt to try to isolate which signal is the culprit. Upon closer inspection I think my AFR could have the most noise. So I will be messing around with it in the next week.

One of the biggest differences with this engine is that the oil pressure is higher than before. Where as the old engine(s) had hot idle of about 7-10psi, this engine sits closer to 15 and that makes me feel a bit better. I don't know if this oil pressure could have caused a piston ring issues but I'm sure that was the problem with the other engine that I pulled.

I decided after talking to my brother that it may be worth it to buy the full version of TunerStudio. It was $10 off and I decided to go for it. I had a fair base tune on the old engine and it drove ok but right away I started with the Tune Analyze auto tuning. It is interesting to see the suggestions of the new fuel values.

I went for a short drive and immediately saw the difference in optimized AFR's. After a short 30 minute drive up and down the highway, I slowly opened up the car as I saw the target
AFR's were more in reach. I have to say, I am very impressed with the program and would recommend it to anybody who has Megasquirt. The performance is night and day compared to just a day earlier. I don't say this kind of thing very often. Boost comes on smooth and I am running about 6.5-7psi.


This morning I did a cold start and ran the analyzer to find that at cold start, idle, and then through the revs after the engine warmed up that the whole tune was too rich. IT wants to take out fuel everywhere. Does anybody else have this problem? Here's the adjusted map after what I thought was a close base tune yesterday:

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Here's a short data log pull from the same drive this morning.

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I am going to try it again in the warm afternoon temps and see if there is a difference.

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Compression Test

Post by Spasso » Mon May 01, 2017 6:34 am

Tom,
Just out of curiosity, did you do a compression check on your old engine before you took it out?

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Mon May 01, 2017 1:47 pm

I didn't after all. But i'm 99% sure if was bad piston ring in cylinder 3 or 4.

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by zinnocoupe » Sat May 06, 2017 4:25 pm

Tom, Thats a lot of wrenching in a short period of time. My hat is off to you. If I tried to do things that fast I would forget 25 things and the engine wouldn't start for 2 weeks. The tune analyze stuff you have looks very interesting. Keep up the good work.
1987 635csi
1979 Euro 635ci no longer a basketcase, just a running rust bucket!
1977 530i New addition ( nonrunner)

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Sat May 13, 2017 4:50 pm

Thanks Dave,

Still messing with MAT and don't have anything new to report since I started a new job this week.

But had some time so sit down and do some research which I wanted to document regarding turbo sizing. I hadn't really had a handle on what the specs mean with wheel sizes, AR and compressor vs turbine, inducer vs exducer on each side, but I think I do now. Here are some of the findings relevant to my current and past turbo.

Understanding that both smaller values are used along with exducer and inducer changing based on either side of the turbo helped my understanding a lot:
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With some research in the past I had written down the original Rotomaster turbo compressor specs as measured by another mye28 member as 48mm inducer, but not sure about turbine exducer. In cross referencing flow charts of other turbos, it was sized for max air flow of about 45 lb/min.
I already knew it was undersized for M30B34 but in running at ~11psi I was at roughly 35lb/min airflow and according to this chart for what I think is a close compressor map, I was getting past the ideal operating conditions and efficiency island. Not terrible, but I imagine the old technology parts didn't help and a rebuild would have made it a reasonable choice.

Estimated originally with 385 CFM and a Pr of ~1.8.
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So in my research and paperwork, my TCD turbo with P trim is Compressor Wheel/Inducer of ~60mm and a Turbine wheel/Exducer of ~65mm. Turbine A/R of .58.
And as quoted by Todd:
A Garrett journal bearing cartrige with an oil cooled and lubrcated bearing.
A 60mm compressor wheel.
A Stage 5 turbine.
A Comp TurboT04e compressor cover and backing plate.
A Garrett .58 on center exhasut housing.

My brother shared the following information which shows the placement in relation to the standard offering, and Todd has stated his unit is a custom variant from Comp.
Product# Turbo Compressor Wheel/Inducer Turbine Wheel/Exducer HP Rating

325558 CT3S 55 58 570
325858 CT3S 58 58 600
326062 CT3S 60 62 660
326262 CT3S 62 62 710
326265 CT3S 62 65 710
326465 CT3S 64 65 800
326767 CT3S 67 67 930
He also created a great thread for turbo comparison and estimated max flow here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=399047

Which gave me a list of other comparable turbos (sorted by max flow):
Brand..................Turbo...............CmpInd.....CmpExd.....TrbInd.....TrbExd.....Flow(lb/min)

BorgWarner.......EFR 7163....................57...............71..............63......N/A.........60
Garrett............GT 3582R...................61.4.............82...........68..........62.2.......60
BorgWarner.......EFR 7670....................57.2...........76............70...........62..........64
Garrett............GTX 3076R..................58.............76.6..........60..........54.9........64
Precision..........PTE 5862....................58.............76.2..........71..........61.9........64
Blouch.............Dom 5.0 XT-R...............62..............84...........68..........62.2........65
Forced Perf.......FP Red......................61.21..........81.79.........67..........59..........65
Garrett............GTX 3576R..................58..............76.6.........68..........62.2........65
BorgWarner.......S257SXE....................57.15...........76.2.........70...........61..........65
CompT..TCD 60/P Trim......58?.....74.9?.....74.2.....64.6.....?
Holset.............HE351CW-9cm..............60..............82...........68...........60..........67
Garrett............GT 4088R..................63.5.............88...........77.........70.4.........67.5
BorgWarner.......BW 8375-S360...............60..............83.........75.9..........68..........68


I wanted to get an idea of where I was at on the compressor map in terms of efficiency for later reference.

So plotting a few total guesses into Matchbot by Borgwarner and plotting the most similar sized Borgwarner I could find from the list, I am able to estimate the compressor map at 11psi. If I enter 6psi (like I am currently running), I barely touch the lower edge visible on the map. This is data point 2.

Slightly smaller - BW S257SXE
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Slightly bigger - BW S360- 8375 (i think)
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This is a good starting point, but I am wondering if I can get a compressor map from CompTurbo.

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tschultz
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Sun Jun 04, 2017 5:28 pm

I got a door hinge last weekend and attempted to replace it yesterday. First tried an electric drill, but the three phillips head screws didn't budge. So i purchased a manual impact driver. Unfortunately that didn't work either. I tried air tools on as low of a setting as possible and the screws still weren't budging. As I slowly cranked up the air pressure, nothing happened until sunddenly the screw stripped. I tried all three and the same happened.

So yesterday I spent the evening drilling out the three.

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To get the door hinge off, I had to almost pull the door off the lower hinge to be able to slide out the upper.

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The offending hinge/pin.

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And finally got it reassembled with new screws. Here's a pretty good photo of the Recaro seats
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Getting back to tuning the map again. Still sitting at 6psi but the car doesn't feel much slower than the Motronic setup at 11psi...

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by ron » Mon Jun 05, 2017 7:03 am

This is the tool you need for anything like that. It fits into an air chisel/ air rivet gun and you can CONTROL the twisting rate, unlike an impact gun. It has a 3/8" square on the end so will accept a variety of bit holders/sockets etc. I've used one for years and I don't think I have ever had a removal failure!

They are available from most aerospace tool suppliers.

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They are ALWAYS rustier than you thought!!!!!!
'88 High line.
'85 M #228
'85 M #207
'80 735i

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tschultz
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Tue Jun 06, 2017 1:38 pm

Interesting, thanks Ron.I have never seen one of those before.
The hinge wasn't bad after I got the screws drilled out, but certainly more in depth than I originally thought!

I noticed I had issues after a windows update, so I reverted to the previous restore point which seemed to work. I do still have communication issues for ~5 mins after a cold start until suddenly the connection is recognized. I suspect it is related to internal temperature of the MS2 box, I'm not sure.

I created a custom dashboard based on one I found online. It's based on the TunerStudio dash shown on the load/open screen. Still trying to decide what is important but this was a good start for me to work on idling and to prevent stalling (Idle PWM%).

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I also like comparing target AFR to actual measured. I am still getting noise in my harness, but I am not sure where to really start to try to iron out the issue. I think it is due to previous splicing into the harness before I bought the engine.

Also I took two different virtual dyno runs in different temperatures, humidity on different days. I thought the result was interesting. I really need to try one of these on the flat part of an empty highway to see if it changes at all in 4th gear. NExt step when I am fairly happy with the tune will be to try these tests with my manual boost controller and see if there is a difference. Then I will turn boost up close to ~10psi/150kPa.

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Tue Nov 14, 2017 2:02 pm

Update from June:
So I haven't worked on this car as much as anticipated due to some issues in June when I was working on the tune. The car was running well, but I was working through the large shifts of rich/lean from drive into work at 6:00am to the drive home at 3:30pm. Over time I had been playing with MAT correction curve, Barometric correction on, dual sensor on, correction off and wasn't having a lot of luck.

Then the car started running rough in early July and I got frustrated with Megasquirt so I didn't drive it or continue tuning. I tried new spark plug wires as it seemed like the issue happened after I added a thin aluminum heat shield around the turbo manifold and noticed some cracking in my plug wires. I thought the spark was arcing or something causing rough running. The car would hardly idle and would surge so I decided not to mess with it in the heat of summer.
Well, new plug wires didn't help anything so I elected to work on other car projects.

So yesterday I decided to try the old WR9LS plugs instead of the colder NGK BPR7ES. When I took them out, many of them were black and my research indicated spark plugs too cold of a range. This spark plug change seemed to help as the car immediately started faster and ran smoother. Great.

I also took the opportunity to adjust the intercooler location and piping slightly to improve the mounting method and stop kinking in one of the elbows. In short, I added an elbow (visible in photos below) and was able to pull the old intercooler entrance pipe up more behind the spoiler. This took a while but I got it all mounted up much more securely than in the past.

Since I had the bumper/spoiler off, I decided to try to mount an M635CSi spoiler on the car. I got this from a friend and had it since last year. Having two cars that look identical is cool, but after two years with the same spoiler on the car I thought I would see if the intercooler and piping might fit behind this one.

To my amazement, it did! The new piping also fit pretty well, and the fog light locations work to still allow airflow to the a brake ducts. The pipe is visible here

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I wasn't happy with the way that the silver piping was visible and I didn't really want to paint them. So when I pulled off the spoiler to paint it I decided to try something else. I used some spare mesh I had laying around and mounted it to the openings in effort to hide the bright silver a bit. Right now it is held in with zip ties so I can remove it if I want, but I think it turned out pretty good:

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It is still meant to be a track car so I'm not worried about a better paint job just yet.

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Unfortunately last night the car started smoking a bunch (blue) on my way home from a short drive for these photos and I need to look at it still. I'm thinking it may be something with the oil feed or oil seals, but oil pressure still looked good, coolant and oil both looked good, coolant temperature was good. Hoping it will be simple as I was hoping to take this car to Drive 4 Corners this year... but if not, I will take the M5. (i'm very happy about the recent work in repairing the front end and getting the euro spoiler on there).

With the old spark plugs, the car was running smoother so I hope to continue working with my tune and map/settings when I figure out this oil smoke issue.


Today:
Last night I had a chance to pull it into the garage and start pulling it apart. Symptoms include really hard start, sputters and doesn't want to rev, and then won't idle (wants to die). Additionally, lots of blue smoke out the back when revving.

No oil in the intake piping and no pools in the downpipe, so I am pretty sure the turbo seals and drain are fine.

With the turbo off, I found cylinder #4 having evidence of oil leaking near the exhaust manifold gasket. Once the turbo was off, I found a small pool of oil in the exhaust port. I suspect the valve guide or valve stem seal failed. I have a new headgasket and hope to have the head off tonight. along with a few photos.

I have a spare head on my work bench ready to go in, it has a slightly better cam, but there is some corrosion on parts of the headgasket of the mating face. I'm trying to deice if I want to just try slapping it on or doing something else. Pictures tonight or tomorrow most likely.

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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz » Wed Nov 15, 2017 3:17 am

From last night:

The oil stain coming from CYL #4
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on the tubo manifold:
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Some new tonight when taking the head off-- I wasn't expecting this! Cyl 2-4 were leaking to each other which explains why it wouldn't start or run very easily. Any ideas as to what caused the failure?

The engine seemed less strong than the one I had pulled out with the ring issue. I suspect these were partially damaged prior to me running it, but there's no way to know for sure. I had been careful to avoid detonation but had been tuning when engine started smoking badly.

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The head as it came off:
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Some cleaning:

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Some strange scratching on the edge of cyl #2:

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I'm not sure the cause but I believe it may have been partially damaged as It was installed... I'm not sure. I didn't replace the HG when I swapped engines.

I was thinking the oil burning was caused by failed valve stem seals-- obviously it wasn't. I had previously pulled my spare head but was upset to find this near cylinder #6. I think it needs reworked and I'm not going to reinstall it after all.

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I have a new elring gasket, I just need to decide how much to really clean up the mating surfaces. I had just done this on my euro 635, but that was with a freshly machined head.

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