Spasso's Euro 635 #5546139
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
My dad had some laying around, I think they came from a e28 based 633 (but don't quote me). I didn't document the procedure but as long as you have the correct side it's a pretty simple swap, besides the annoyance of getting in there.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Yeah, pulling the doors apart are on the "long list" attached to the car.tschultz wrote:My dad had some laying around, I think they came from a e28 based 633 (but don't quote me). I didn't document the procedure but as long as you have the correct side it's a pretty simple swap, besides the annoyance of getting in there.
I spent TWO weeks rebuilding the electric windows on one of my other cars and swore I would never do it again.
They were cable operated. Pulleys everywhere, cables crisscrossed (per drawing) and a dual winding drum that each end of the cable attached to.
The stuff of nightmares.
Finally finished the water pump job.
I can't believe it took me a month in a half but that thing called life keeps altering my intentions.
Not a simple R & R, lots of cleaning and refurb.
- All new factory bolts throughout.
- Radiator cleaned and all of the fins straightened before repaint in semi-flat paint.
- A/C condenser fins blown out.
- Fan and hub cleaned. Blades deburred from foreign object encounters.
- Pulleys cleaned and repainted.
- Core support cleaned and all new nut-clips installed
- Fan shroud cleaned with lacquer thinner to like new.
- Now on to the master cylinder R & R.
I can't believe it took me a month in a half but that thing called life keeps altering my intentions.
Not a simple R & R, lots of cleaning and refurb.
- All new factory bolts throughout.
- Radiator cleaned and all of the fins straightened before repaint in semi-flat paint.
- A/C condenser fins blown out.
- Fan and hub cleaned. Blades deburred from foreign object encounters.
- Pulleys cleaned and repainted.
- Core support cleaned and all new nut-clips installed
- Fan shroud cleaned with lacquer thinner to like new.
- Now on to the master cylinder R & R.
Finally got back to work on Gretchen.
Stripped and cleaned the battery tray and hardware.
Repainted the tray with banner red which is the closest I could get to Helrot.
Repainted mounting hardware gloss black
Re-terminated the positive battery cable with a zinc clamp and also retermed the accessory wires that also went to the clamp.
Install battery.
Stripped and cleaned the battery tray and hardware.
Repainted the tray with banner red which is the closest I could get to Helrot.
Repainted mounting hardware gloss black
Re-terminated the positive battery cable with a zinc clamp and also retermed the accessory wires that also went to the clamp.
Install battery.
- Attachments
-
- Battery 1 (Small).JPG (59.72 KiB) Viewed 11037 times
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- Tray_2 (Small).JPG (72.91 KiB) Viewed 11037 times
Finished up passenger mirror installation and re-installed all of the interior trim, plus missing bits and pieces elsewhere. Very time consuming to get it all correct with the proper screws etc...
Put coolant in the car and got it down off the jack stands.
She fired right up after sitting all winter.
It took an hour or so to get it out of my basement and moved up in front of the shop.
Once she warned up she settled down to a nice idle.
Here are a couple of shots since I took the Rondell 58's off and installed the Style 4's. (It was raining out)
I think it is a better look for this car and the wheel offset will work better with the suspension geometry.
Put coolant in the car and got it down off the jack stands.
She fired right up after sitting all winter.
It took an hour or so to get it out of my basement and moved up in front of the shop.
Once she warned up she settled down to a nice idle.
Here are a couple of shots since I took the Rondell 58's off and installed the Style 4's. (It was raining out)
I think it is a better look for this car and the wheel offset will work better with the suspension geometry.
- Attachments
-
- Front (Small).JPG (64.6 KiB) Viewed 11036 times
-
- LF (Small).JPG (76.9 KiB) Viewed 11036 times
-
- Right Side (Small).JPG (83.08 KiB) Viewed 11036 times
I just finished a master cylinder replacement and if you are already there, have Jay Stratton (JCS) rebuild your booster and replace your brake accumulator. Once you take out the M/C everything else is a whole lot more accessible.
I had a '71 Z-car long ago that I needed floor pan and wheel well replacement as rust proofing was non-existent.
Great job and beautiful car!
I had a '71 Z-car long ago that I needed floor pan and wheel well replacement as rust proofing was non-existent.
Great job and beautiful car!
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
Hi Sansouci,
Thanks for the compliment. I am rather smitten by the car myself.
- I have sourced an ATE master cylinder with related gaskets and grommets already but hadn't thought of rebuilding the booster.
- Currently it works perfectly but it would probably be a good idea to have a rebuilder on file.
- Where is Jay Stratton located? Average cost for a rebuild? Contact info? (I'm in the Pacific Northwest.)
- Also, I did a search using my VIN 5546139 in RealOEM to look at what other brake parts are effective for my car and it does not appear that I have a "Pressure Regulator/ Accumulator", what you would call a "Brake Bomb?"
- No brake servo unit and I haven't found evidence of ABS (If this year even had it).
- From what I can see these are the items effective for my car (RealOEM Links):
Master cylinder, http://snipurl.com/292fnx1
Expansion Tank, http://snipurl.com/292fnzb
Power Booster, http://snipurl.com/292fo1t
Thanks for the compliment. I am rather smitten by the car myself.
- I have sourced an ATE master cylinder with related gaskets and grommets already but hadn't thought of rebuilding the booster.
- Currently it works perfectly but it would probably be a good idea to have a rebuilder on file.
- Where is Jay Stratton located? Average cost for a rebuild? Contact info? (I'm in the Pacific Northwest.)
- Also, I did a search using my VIN 5546139 in RealOEM to look at what other brake parts are effective for my car and it does not appear that I have a "Pressure Regulator/ Accumulator", what you would call a "Brake Bomb?"
- No brake servo unit and I haven't found evidence of ABS (If this year even had it).
- From what I can see these are the items effective for my car (RealOEM Links):
Master cylinder, http://snipurl.com/292fnx1
Expansion Tank, http://snipurl.com/292fnzb
Power Booster, http://snipurl.com/292fo1t
Last edited by Spasso on Wed Jul 02, 2014 2:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
One other project item on the car is the cruise control.
Did these even come with it from the factory?
The one installed does work although the control stalk has been broken.
Unfortunately the cruise control only works at 72 MPH.
I am unable to change the cruise speed because I believe a magnet is missing from the drive line.
(Adjacent to the drive line is a pulse generator.)
Anyone have experience with this set up?
Any ideas where to source the correct magnet and proper attach method?
Did these even come with it from the factory?
The one installed does work although the control stalk has been broken.
Unfortunately the cruise control only works at 72 MPH.
I am unable to change the cruise speed because I believe a magnet is missing from the drive line.
(Adjacent to the drive line is a pulse generator.)
Anyone have experience with this set up?
Any ideas where to source the correct magnet and proper attach method?
Spasso,
I'm not sure about your brake system as mine is a plain vanilla 84 633 vin 6997510. Realoem will tell you whether you have an accumulator or not. I think your booster is unlike mine but is the big round thing on the firewall. My booster is a narrow tube shaped device mounted on the firewall and is directly connected to the master cylinder.
For your reference Jay Stratton is a Big Coupe member with the handle "jcs." He has a number of posts regarding his rebuilding services.
For myself, I bought an aluminum seal holder from "maxlumens" (google that one) that I will eventually send to Jay with the booster for a rebuild. The machined aluminum item replaces the vintage plastic seal holder. Now that the car is 30 years old becomes suspect.
This weekend (thankfully it is a long holiday) I will finally struggle to remove the PITA power flow regulator with the attached pressure accumulator (AKA "brake bomb") and replace the BB with a new FEBI unit.
If I haven't busted my knuckles too much, I will also remove the new master cylinder to get to the booster, simply because the accumulator and bomb removal creates more clearance to work on the booster.
I keep reminding myself that brakes are a key safety system.
Keep up the good work and am envious at your diligence on detailing the nooks and crannies.
--Ken
I'm not sure about your brake system as mine is a plain vanilla 84 633 vin 6997510. Realoem will tell you whether you have an accumulator or not. I think your booster is unlike mine but is the big round thing on the firewall. My booster is a narrow tube shaped device mounted on the firewall and is directly connected to the master cylinder.
For your reference Jay Stratton is a Big Coupe member with the handle "jcs." He has a number of posts regarding his rebuilding services.
For myself, I bought an aluminum seal holder from "maxlumens" (google that one) that I will eventually send to Jay with the booster for a rebuild. The machined aluminum item replaces the vintage plastic seal holder. Now that the car is 30 years old becomes suspect.
This weekend (thankfully it is a long holiday) I will finally struggle to remove the PITA power flow regulator with the attached pressure accumulator (AKA "brake bomb") and replace the BB with a new FEBI unit.
If I haven't busted my knuckles too much, I will also remove the new master cylinder to get to the booster, simply because the accumulator and bomb removal creates more clearance to work on the booster.
I keep reminding myself that brakes are a key safety system.
Keep up the good work and am envious at your diligence on detailing the nooks and crannies.
--Ken
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
- I am inclined to think mine is vanilla as well.
- The Accumulator "bomb" is not effective on my car per RealOEM.
- Also, the brake servo system is also not effective.
- My booster is indeed the big round diaphragm type with a simple dual path master cylinder on the front of it, which I am glad of.
- I value simplicity as a form of efficiency.
I will take a better look at the car this weekend.
- The Accumulator "bomb" is not effective on my car per RealOEM.
- Also, the brake servo system is also not effective.
- My booster is indeed the big round diaphragm type with a simple dual path master cylinder on the front of it, which I am glad of.
- I value simplicity as a form of efficiency.
I will take a better look at the car this weekend.
I looked up your car in RealOEM to see how it is put together, the Brake Servo Unit (narrow tube device) and the related Pressure Regulator/Accumulator (bomb). Now I see why your task is daunting. I hope mine is not so much.sansouci wrote:Spasso,
I'm not sure about your brake system as mine is a plain vanilla 84 633 vin 6997510. My booster is a narrow tube shaped device mounted on the firewall and is directly connected to the master cylinder.
--Ken
- The difference in brake systems, mine uses a vacuum powered booster (diaphragm) and yours is hydraulically boosted.
Evolution of design. Interesting.
Good luck this weekend
Last edited by Spasso on Wed Jul 02, 2014 9:59 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- Ralph in Socal
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2746
- Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 3:32 am
- Location: High Desert of SoCal
AFAIK an 84 633 will have the hydraulic system. The conversion from vacuum to hydraulic booster occurred with the introduction of the E28 chassis platform in 5/82. I'm under the impression the change was made to accommodate the intake manifold of the "new" motronic system.
JCS is located here in SoCal and he provides an excellent service for the hydraulic boosters. Far less cost than anyone else and far better product to boot. You can just buy the kit and rebuild the booster yourself as it is simple and straightforward.
Ralph
JCS is located here in SoCal and he provides an excellent service for the hydraulic boosters. Far less cost than anyone else and far better product to boot. You can just buy the kit and rebuild the booster yourself as it is simple and straightforward.
Ralph
There is a very fine line between "Hobby" and Mental Illness.
85 635csi Zinno Auto
84 528i Euro
83 635 Euro Arktik
81 528i Kastanien 5-speed
88 528e Bronzit (Granpa Car)
86 535i Auto (For Sale)
81 633 csi (retired)
85 635csi Zinno Auto
84 528i Euro
83 635 Euro Arktik
81 528i Kastanien 5-speed
88 528e Bronzit (Granpa Car)
86 535i Auto (For Sale)
81 633 csi (retired)
Part of the reason I pulled the water pump on this car was not only because it started leaking but because I could hear a mechanical noise from the front of the engine, sort of like a water pump bearing going out.
Well, When I ran the car up to the shop last week it still had that noise and seemed to have gotten worse.
I got out my trusty garden-hose-stethoscope and found the noise coming from the water pump area; specifically by the pulley and back side of the fan clutch.
The only way to find the noise (while PRAYING IT WASN'T THE TIMING SET) was to drain the cooling system and pull the radiator again.
- The next step was to pull the fan & clutch and start the car.
- The noise was still there. (crap)
- Next I pulled the P/S belt and the alternator/ water pump belt.
- The noise went away. (whew).
- The engine was nice and quiet, ESPECIALLY the timing set after I poked my hose around some more. (nice)
- That was the end of my 4th of July and went to bed relieved.
****
- July 5th found me testing the alt/W/P belt and found that the noise was caused by misalignment of the alternator and too high of a tension on the belt.
- Looking down from the top, the nose of the alternator was cocked clockwise/rotated forward.
- Off comes the alternator and brackets. I took a torch to the slotted adjuster bracket and reshaped it so it would move the alternator back a little.
- The main pivot bolt up top had some play in it due to worn bushings in the alternator itself, allowing the belt to pull the pulley sideways somewhat.
- To cancel the play on the forward side of the pivot and keep the alternator square with the the engine I rotated the bushings in the alternator mounts so the oblong sections were perpendicular to the load.
Not much else I could do with what materials I had on hand.
- I checked the fan clutch again and it has zero play and rotates smoothly so I reinstalled it.
- Radiator and coolant goes back in.
- Start and run to full temp. Bleed the t-stat housing and took it for a drive.
- I forgot how great this thing sounds with dual pipes (and no catalytic converters). At 4500 RPM it barks pretty good.
** So now I'm back to where I was 7 days ago.
Well, When I ran the car up to the shop last week it still had that noise and seemed to have gotten worse.
I got out my trusty garden-hose-stethoscope and found the noise coming from the water pump area; specifically by the pulley and back side of the fan clutch.
The only way to find the noise (while PRAYING IT WASN'T THE TIMING SET) was to drain the cooling system and pull the radiator again.
- The next step was to pull the fan & clutch and start the car.
- The noise was still there. (crap)
- Next I pulled the P/S belt and the alternator/ water pump belt.
- The noise went away. (whew).
- The engine was nice and quiet, ESPECIALLY the timing set after I poked my hose around some more. (nice)
- That was the end of my 4th of July and went to bed relieved.
****
- July 5th found me testing the alt/W/P belt and found that the noise was caused by misalignment of the alternator and too high of a tension on the belt.
- Looking down from the top, the nose of the alternator was cocked clockwise/rotated forward.
- Off comes the alternator and brackets. I took a torch to the slotted adjuster bracket and reshaped it so it would move the alternator back a little.
- The main pivot bolt up top had some play in it due to worn bushings in the alternator itself, allowing the belt to pull the pulley sideways somewhat.
- To cancel the play on the forward side of the pivot and keep the alternator square with the the engine I rotated the bushings in the alternator mounts so the oblong sections were perpendicular to the load.
Not much else I could do with what materials I had on hand.
- I checked the fan clutch again and it has zero play and rotates smoothly so I reinstalled it.
- Radiator and coolant goes back in.
- Start and run to full temp. Bleed the t-stat housing and took it for a drive.
- I forgot how great this thing sounds with dual pipes (and no catalytic converters). At 4500 RPM it barks pretty good.
** So now I'm back to where I was 7 days ago.
Someone (I can't recall who) said there is a 5-series alt bracket that is more robust than that skinny bracket.
Please chime in with the PN and whatever mods need to be done to the alt to make it fit
I spent the 4th looking at my 6'er and 740 thinking about priorities.
6 a garage queen and the 7 needs a bunch of fixes. Little time and only modest skills.
Thanks!
Ken
Please chime in with the PN and whatever mods need to be done to the alt to make it fit
I spent the 4th looking at my 6'er and 740 thinking about priorities.
6 a garage queen and the 7 needs a bunch of fixes. Little time and only modest skills.
Thanks!
Ken
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
Found it - courtesy of Brucey
9/86 on (I think) they used a double-sided bracket on E24s and a similar bracket on E34s.
There are differences in the aluminium support piece as well, but with a little work it is possible to mount the later style of bracket to an earlier car.
The other change they introduced at the same time was a change to a solid alternator mounting; no more collapsing rubber bits!
cheers
_________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
9/86 on (I think) they used a double-sided bracket on E24s and a similar bracket on E34s.
There are differences in the aluminium support piece as well, but with a little work it is possible to mount the later style of bracket to an earlier car.
The other change they introduced at the same time was a change to a solid alternator mounting; no more collapsing rubber bits!
cheers
_________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
Hydraulic brake booster DIY repair kit and rebuild service.
Hi Spasso,
Here is a link to my website for the DIY repair kit or my rebuild service,
after you clic on the link, clic on the first photo to enlarge, then scroll down a little to read the captions under each photo. for my address see the shipping instructions photo #8.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1135658876 ... Z7f6JrUyQE#
Best,
Jay
Here is a link to my website for the DIY repair kit or my rebuild service,
after you clic on the link, clic on the first photo to enlarge, then scroll down a little to read the captions under each photo. for my address see the shipping instructions photo #8.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1135658876 ... Z7f6JrUyQE#
Best,
Jay
Spasso wrote:Hi Sansouci,
Thanks for the compliment. I am rather smitten by the car myself.
- I have sourced an ATE master cylinder with related gaskets and grommets already but hadn't thought of rebuilding the booster.
- Currently it works perfectly but it would probably be a good idea to have a rebuilder on file.
- Where is Jay Stratton located? Average cost for a rebuild? Contact info? (I'm in the Pacific Northwest.)
- Also, I did a search using my VIN 5546139 in RealOEM to look at what other brake parts are effective for my car and it does not appear that I have a "Pressure Regulator/ Accumulator", what you would call a "Brake Bomb?"
- No brake servo unit and I haven't found evidence of ABS (If this year even had it).
- From what I can see these are the items effective for my car (RealOEM Links):
Master cylinder, http://snipurl.com/292fnx1
Expansion Tank, http://snipurl.com/292fnzb
Power Booster, http://snipurl.com/292fo1t
Jay
'88 M6, Red/Tan
My NEW Website https://www.jaysbmwparts.com/
'88 M6, Red/Tan
My NEW Website https://www.jaysbmwparts.com/
You are correct, I believe it's the same style as used on the 2002's and almost the exact same as the E3's.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Got the master cylinder replaced today.
Pretty much straight forward but was surprised at having FIVE brake lines connected to it.
I noticed two separate brake lines to each front caliper and three bleeders on each.
Quite a set-up.
Tomorrow I'll try out my pressure bleeder for the first time.
Next on the agenda, R & R the idler arm, RH side. It moves up and down about 1/4".
Pretty much straight forward but was surprised at having FIVE brake lines connected to it.
I noticed two separate brake lines to each front caliper and three bleeders on each.
Quite a set-up.
Tomorrow I'll try out my pressure bleeder for the first time.
Next on the agenda, R & R the idler arm, RH side. It moves up and down about 1/4".