Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
That's always good!
I actually made a typo in the above post. I meant TCD CHIP and RRFPR. Low boost setup on stop B34. I think it will be the best route to keep a reasonable timing without having to go MS2 (I'm not ready to optimize the existing system, just get it running reliably for some fun).
Oh and I must say, the photos of your car with Style 42's are making me want to pursue the set that is local to me-- it looks killer with those wheels IMO!
I actually made a typo in the above post. I meant TCD CHIP and RRFPR. Low boost setup on stop B34. I think it will be the best route to keep a reasonable timing without having to go MS2 (I'm not ready to optimize the existing system, just get it running reliably for some fun).
Oh and I must say, the photos of your car with Style 42's are making me want to pursue the set that is local to me-- it looks killer with those wheels IMO!
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
I think it's wise to start with a low boost set-up and learn how to optimize what you have. That's where I'm at.tschultz wrote:That's always good!
I actually made a typo in the above post. I meant TCD CHIP and RRFPR. Low boost setup on stop B34. I think it will be the best route to keep a reasonable timing without having to go MS2 (I'm not ready to optimize the existing system, just get it running reliably for some fun).
Oh and I must say, the photos of your car with Style 42's are making me want to pursue the set that is local to me-- it looks killer with those wheels IMO!
- Do it by the numbers and learn how to get everything out of the system I can while retaining drivability and dependability, THEN decide if I want to go a little more radical.
- The style 42's fit great with good clearance and the car drives nicely with them. No spacers.
- I pulled them off last fall and put them on the 530 for winter driving because they have some nearly new Michelin Pilot A/S Sports on them.
- Currently they are up on the Schwaben wall rack with my snow wheels and I'm back to the Rondell 58's on the 530.
- Amazingly the fake M5 wheels fit on the 635 pretty good for being 18"dia. Same width all around but using the narrowest tire I could on the front for fender clearance.
Dana,
What injectors do you have in the car now? Does the MAF Control then with a custom map?
Also what shocks and springs do you have on your car?
What injectors do you have in the car now? Does the MAF Control then with a custom map?
Also what shocks and springs do you have on your car?
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Per the previous owner:
Injectors are Ford high performance, 42 lb/hr. They are WHITE in color.
The chip is a programmable Miller WAR.
- The MAF that came with the car was a "special" Miller MAF. It died a couple of years ago so I referenced the part number off it and found it to be same as that used on the Ford Lightning pickups and the Mustang Cobra. ( 2000 -2003 models IIRC)
* The MAF and chip work in concert. (Part of the MAF conversion etc....)
- I'm not sure what was done by Miller (if anything) to make the MAF "special" other than grafting a different socket on it so it could be plugged into the stock wire harness.
- With the new MAF I bought a new mating connector and grafted it to the wiring harness on the car so I wouldn't have to modify the MAF socket.
- Currently I am staying with one tune/fuel map until I get a rising rate pressure regulator and wide band O2 set up..
******************************
- I am unsure what springs are on the car. They might be after-market (blue). I think the front ones may have been cut.
- Not sure what type of shocks either. They are yellow IIRC.
I do know the front struts are blown.
* I will be replacing all with H & R springs and Bilsteins.
Injectors are Ford high performance, 42 lb/hr. They are WHITE in color.
The chip is a programmable Miller WAR.
- The MAF that came with the car was a "special" Miller MAF. It died a couple of years ago so I referenced the part number off it and found it to be same as that used on the Ford Lightning pickups and the Mustang Cobra. ( 2000 -2003 models IIRC)
* The MAF and chip work in concert. (Part of the MAF conversion etc....)
- I'm not sure what was done by Miller (if anything) to make the MAF "special" other than grafting a different socket on it so it could be plugged into the stock wire harness.
- With the new MAF I bought a new mating connector and grafted it to the wiring harness on the car so I wouldn't have to modify the MAF socket.
- Currently I am staying with one tune/fuel map until I get a rising rate pressure regulator and wide band O2 set up..
******************************
- I am unsure what springs are on the car. They might be after-market (blue). I think the front ones may have been cut.
- Not sure what type of shocks either. They are yellow IIRC.
I do know the front struts are blown.
* I will be replacing all with H & R springs and Bilsteins.
I swear this car is possessed.
I ran into another "No-start" this last Sunday.
The OEM alarm and disable circuit has been arming itself and setting itself off at random times over the last few months.
I disconnected the horn but obviously until I disconnect the wires from the OBC I can't trust the car to start when I want it to.
Thanks to the guys over in the saloon they got it figured out for me.
viewtopic.php?t=25213&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
I ran into another "No-start" this last Sunday.
The OEM alarm and disable circuit has been arming itself and setting itself off at random times over the last few months.
I disconnected the horn but obviously until I disconnect the wires from the OBC I can't trust the car to start when I want it to.
Thanks to the guys over in the saloon they got it figured out for me.
viewtopic.php?t=25213&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
I have an RRFPR to try out on my car, but will be working on a shock/spring swap first.
I am hesitating in deciding which route to go to optimize air/fuel-- it seems that Miller MAF may not be super useful.
I am hesitating in deciding which route to go to optimize air/fuel-- it seems that Miller MAF may not be super useful.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
9mil Phil had the same dilemma with his build as well and decided against Miller and went with Megasquirt IIRC because of flexibility.
I know the Miller chip is programmable but you need the software to do it and that costs extra.
You can program multiple maps and if I'm not mistaken can also monitor on the fly with a lap top.
I think the guys on MyE28 would be the better judge in your situation.
I know the Miller chip is programmable but you need the software to do it and that costs extra.
You can program multiple maps and if I'm not mistaken can also monitor on the fly with a lap top.
I think the guys on MyE28 would be the better judge in your situation.
Since my last "No-start" I disconnected the battery and put a maintainer on it because it was a little low, I imagine because it was activating the alarm and code relays for the preceding couple of weeks.Spasso wrote:I swear this car is possessed.
I ran into another "No-start" this last Sunday.
The OEM alarm and disable circuit has been arming itself and setting itself off at random times over the last few months.
I disconnected the horn but obviously until I disconnect the wires from the OBC I can't trust the car to start when I want it to.
Thanks to the guys over in the saloon they got it figured out for me.
viewtopic.php?t=25213&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
I went out there yesterday and hooked up the battery and it fired right up.
* Scheiß Haufen indeed.....*
...
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
So, Turbo car gets a little sister today.
A Diamondschwarz '84 Euro 635, #8183039.
See here, viewtopic.php?f=25&t=26429
A Diamondschwarz '84 Euro 635, #8183039.
See here, viewtopic.php?f=25&t=26429
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
When will you be adding the intercooler?
I'm going to be working on mine in the next couple of months when I change the turbo, but would be curious to compare to somebody else when working through it.
I'm going to be working on mine in the next couple of months when I change the turbo, but would be curious to compare to somebody else when working through it.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
After I do some suspension and steering work I'll be looking at the intercooler.
I'm considering rotating the turbo outlet back to the down position like OEM so I can more easily route the piping over to the other side of the car.
I will probably do some sorting on the Euro I just picked up first so I can use it this summer.
I'm considering rotating the turbo outlet back to the down position like OEM so I can more easily route the piping over to the other side of the car.
I will probably do some sorting on the Euro I just picked up first so I can use it this summer.
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
Funny how the sorting turned into a full engine rebuild...Spasso wrote:........
I will probably do some sorting on the Euro I just picked up first so I can use it this summer.
Project drift at it's worst but worth it...
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
You must work for one of the local software companies!Spasso wrote:Project drift at it's worst but worth it...
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
Your poor turbo car has been neglected. You have been saying intercooler for years. That should be a weekend project (including flipping the throttle body) with the detail and progress we have seen you make on the euro car!
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
Yup. The turbo car went on the back burner this year.tschultz wrote:Your poor turbo car has been neglected. You have been saying intercooler for years. That should be a weekend project (including flipping the throttle body) with the detail and progress we have seen you make on the euro car!
Between the Euro car and work on my house (lots) there just wasn't the time.
You mention flipping the throttle body, did you mean the turbo outlet?
Am I correct that in order to flip the turbo outlet I have to pull the exhaust manifold?
It's pretty tight in there.
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
Flipped throttle body, meaning intake charge air comes in on the driver's side as opposed to the engine exhaust side. This is ideal for use with an intercooler, but not how mine is set up:
http://e28-535i.com/upload/manifoldintake2.JPG
http://e28-535i.com/upload/manifoldintake2.JPG
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
I think TCD does the throttle body re-position as part of their system?
I've seen it and something I would like to do ultimately.
Makes for a much better routing for sure.
I got wrapped up in installing new exhaust manifolds, pipes, mufflers, plugs, wires and electric cooling fan on my truck this spring as well as the work on the Euro.
So many things, so little time.
At least I got to drive the Euro to work today, a whopping 1,000 miles on it so far.
I've seen it and something I would like to do ultimately.
Makes for a much better routing for sure.
I got wrapped up in installing new exhaust manifolds, pipes, mufflers, plugs, wires and electric cooling fan on my truck this spring as well as the work on the Euro.
So many things, so little time.
At least I got to drive the Euro to work today, a whopping 1,000 miles on it so far.
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
Am I correct that in order to flip the turbo outlet I have to pull the exhaust manifold?tschultz wrote:Flipped throttle body, meaning intake charge air comes in on the driver's side as opposed to the engine exhaust side. This is ideal for use with an intercooler, but not how mine is set up:
http://e28-535i.com/upload/manifoldintake2.JPG
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
No, I don't think so. The turbo outlet is determined by the position where the bolts on the compressor are tightened down. Loosed the 4-6 nuts and rotate the outlet.
it's called 'clocking the turbo.' You will have to see if you can get to all of these nuts and then see if you have the space in the engine bay to rotate it. You should be able to in place though...
it's called 'clocking the turbo.' You will have to see if you can get to all of these nuts and then see if you have the space in the engine bay to rotate it. You should be able to in place though...
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
I'll have to get in there and take another look but last time it looked like I was going to have trouble getting to all the bolts.tschultz wrote:No, I don't think so. The turbo outlet is determined by the position where the bolts on the compressor are tightened down. Loosed the 4-6 nuts and rotate the outlet.
it's called 'clocking the turbo.' You will have to see if you can get to all of these nuts and then see if you have the space in the engine bay to rotate it. You should be able to in place though...
Dropping the down pipe may open things up a bit.
Currently the outlet is so close to the frame that I think it will hit if I try to turn it in that direction unless you mean to pull the outlet housing completely off and then reinstall...
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
Sorry to ask such a primitive question, but what is the benefit in clocking the turbo?
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
Currently the charge air outlet is clocked facing upwards like in the picture above with the tubing going straight to the throttle body/ intake manifold on my car.francoid wrote:Sorry to ask such a primitive question, but what is the benefit in clocking the turbo?
(Check pictures earlier in the thread.)
The original intent by the previous owner was to install a methanol/air intercooler above the turbo, next to the valve cover and then route over to the throttle body.
There is no intercooler installed at this time which requires limited boost and restricted use so as not to fry pistons with hot charge air.
I plan to install an air/air intercooler behind the airdam which is a much simpler system.
By clocking the turbo outlet back down to factory position it will be easier to route charge air forward along the frame rail to the right side of the intercooler without snaking around the existing inlet/MAF/filter tubing.
Ideally the intercooler outlet will re-enter the engine bay on the driver's side where the battery now sits.
As Tom mentions, the best routing from there would be to a re-located throttle body on the OUTBOARD side of the intake manifold. This would require some cutting and welding of a new mounting flange for the throttle body and blocking off of the original location.
It would be a cleaner set up all around and easier to work on the top end of the engine without removing half of the system, (simple things like changing the spark plugs and adjusting valves).
* MY question is, once the T/B is flipped what throttle cable is used?
- Attachments
-
- manifoldintake2.JPG (87 KiB) Viewed 12434 times
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
From a mye28 post:
andShadow wrote:with a bend is better to retain stock cable.
3'' cast bend. Hope the pic helps.
BadM535i wrote:for the throttle cable, one from a e36 m3 was used since it was a little longer.The motor that you see in the pic was fitted in a e30 but I am sure it would also work fine in a e28.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
Your link above doesn't work.
Nice layout above.
It almost looks like the stock E24 cable would work.
Nice layout above.
It almost looks like the stock E24 cable would work.