Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
Sadly, it doesn't look I will be progressing on design and build of the intercooler system this year.
I'm looking at dropping 25k for a new electrical service and roof for the house. Not what I want to spend money on but gotta keep it dry.
She runs good and drives just like a naturally aspirated car when using a light foot.
On the last drive it was breaking loose through 2nd at 9psi, dry pavement, 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
Looking forward to getting back on it at a later date.
See ya then.
I'm looking at dropping 25k for a new electrical service and roof for the house. Not what I want to spend money on but gotta keep it dry.
She runs good and drives just like a naturally aspirated car when using a light foot.
On the last drive it was breaking loose through 2nd at 9psi, dry pavement, 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
Looking forward to getting back on it at a later date.
See ya then.
Any more photos or videos??
Also curious how your euro e24 is doing-- hadn''t seen any updates in a while.
Also curious how your euro e24 is doing-- hadn''t seen any updates in a while.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Hi Tom,
No new photos of the Turbo car. Nothing has really changed since the pictures in previous posts.
I have been driving it on the weekends and it has been running quite well, consistent.
I still get the speedo dropping out once in a while but I know what is causing it. The gang plug on the back is still a little loose.
I can't run this thing too hard until I get some new brakes and suspension on it. All the rotors are cracked currently and it shakes hard on braking due to wasted thrust arm bushings. Totally sacked. The inboard pivot bolts are almost touching the ends of the castings.
Nothing new on the Euro. It's put to bed for the winter. When it comes out it needs a water pump and master cylinder. I am getting a clunk up front and excessive play in the wheel so I will need to take a closer look at the suspension/steering for safety.
None of the above can be addressed until I put a new roof on my house so that kind of puts a damper on automotive endeavors for a few months.
No new photos of the Turbo car. Nothing has really changed since the pictures in previous posts.
I have been driving it on the weekends and it has been running quite well, consistent.
I still get the speedo dropping out once in a while but I know what is causing it. The gang plug on the back is still a little loose.
I can't run this thing too hard until I get some new brakes and suspension on it. All the rotors are cracked currently and it shakes hard on braking due to wasted thrust arm bushings. Totally sacked. The inboard pivot bolts are almost touching the ends of the castings.
Nothing new on the Euro. It's put to bed for the winter. When it comes out it needs a water pump and master cylinder. I am getting a clunk up front and excessive play in the wheel so I will need to take a closer look at the suspension/steering for safety.
None of the above can be addressed until I put a new roof on my house so that kind of puts a damper on automotive endeavors for a few months.
Bummer- well it sounds like you have a lot going on!
Just for reference, I have play in my steering because of the joint on #5 (e12 based car):
Just for reference, I have play in my steering because of the joint on #5 (e12 based car):
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
One victory this weekend was converting the intensive clean wash-bottle to the primary wash-bottle duty for the windshield.
It only holds half the amount of the original primary but beats not having one at all with all the rain and grease on the roads around here.
The new cold air box eliminated the primary bottle.
The hardest part was unplugging the nozzles and re-aiming them
It only holds half the amount of the original primary but beats not having one at all with all the rain and grease on the roads around here.
The new cold air box eliminated the primary bottle.
The hardest part was unplugging the nozzles and re-aiming them
Musical wheels this weekend.
I pulled the Style 42's off my 2002 530 and put them on this car so I could put the Style 4's on the Euro 635. I feel the Style 4's fit the character of the Euro car better.
The 42's fill out the wheel wells on this car better.
The Rondell 58's that were on the Euro went to the 530. The Rondells are 8.5" wide with less offset/ more lip. Nice look.
I pulled the Style 42's off my 2002 530 and put them on this car so I could put the Style 4's on the Euro 635. I feel the Style 4's fit the character of the Euro car better.
The 42's fill out the wheel wells on this car better.
The Rondell 58's that were on the Euro went to the 530. The Rondells are 8.5" wide with less offset/ more lip. Nice look.
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- LR Side (Small).JPG (93.25 KiB) Viewed 14561 times
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- LF (Small).JPG (93.62 KiB) Viewed 14561 times
Last edited by Spasso on Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
530 on Rondell 58's.
You can see the difference in lips.
You can see the difference in lips.
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- IMG_0002 (Small).JPG (63.79 KiB) Viewed 14560 times
Last edited by Spasso on Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The type 42's have a bunch of curb rash on then so they are perfect for the 635 "Schei?haufen" (S**tpile) rat car.
Since I got the cobbled together wiring straightened out on the the 635 it's actually fun to drive. The thing really pulls hard through second gear but just don't try to stop.
The rotors are all cracked, the front left balljoint ball joint is cracked, the rod ends are gone, thrust arms are junk and the rear suspension sounds like like Saturday night in a whore house with all the squeaking and clunking going on..
Currently it's the only thing I have as a daily driver is the 635 because the 530 is in for a conversion from the POS dual-mass flywheel to the UUC/ M5 Clutch kit. That will REALLY make it fun to drive.
I'll be installing the cold weather Crank-Case Ventilation system while I'm at it.
How is your stuff coming along?
Since I got the cobbled together wiring straightened out on the the 635 it's actually fun to drive. The thing really pulls hard through second gear but just don't try to stop.
The rotors are all cracked, the front left balljoint ball joint is cracked, the rod ends are gone, thrust arms are junk and the rear suspension sounds like like Saturday night in a whore house with all the squeaking and clunking going on..
Currently it's the only thing I have as a daily driver is the 635 because the 530 is in for a conversion from the POS dual-mass flywheel to the UUC/ M5 Clutch kit. That will REALLY make it fun to drive.
I'll be installing the cold weather Crank-Case Ventilation system while I'm at it.
How is your stuff coming along?
Last edited by Spasso on Wed Mar 27, 2013 2:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
If they built E34's NEW with the same quality as they did then I would buy an M5 in a heart beat.Spasso wrote:8.5"wide x 17"dia with and think 15mm offset.. No rubbing. They came off my old E34 (Miss that car but it had 277 miles on it when I traded it in)9mil wrote:I really like those 58's- that's the kind of lip I'm talking about. I wish I could make headway on mine like you!
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Latest weekend project.
I just couldn't stand the 1/4" wide cracks in the rear spoiler so I thought I would try a reasonably quick and inexpensive fix just to make the car look less like a derelict.
I'm pretty sure the previous owner primed and painted the spoiler with regular products. Lots of micro cracks in the paint, this besides the point there were large splits along the lip.
Like the rest of this car it was assembled on the cheap (excluding the engine and drive train). That's where all the money went.
I sanded the black paint off down through the most of grey primer, which was micro-cracked. I should have taken it all off but thought I could get by.
I used a DA with 320 grit for all stages
One thing to remember is that this spoiler is not rigid. It's very soft and spongy like foam. Once you are through the gloss you are into the foam and you have to reseal it.
I just couldn't stand the 1/4" wide cracks in the rear spoiler so I thought I would try a reasonably quick and inexpensive fix just to make the car look less like a derelict.
I'm pretty sure the previous owner primed and painted the spoiler with regular products. Lots of micro cracks in the paint, this besides the point there were large splits along the lip.
Like the rest of this car it was assembled on the cheap (excluding the engine and drive train). That's where all the money went.
I sanded the black paint off down through the most of grey primer, which was micro-cracked. I should have taken it all off but thought I could get by.
I used a DA with 320 grit for all stages
One thing to remember is that this spoiler is not rigid. It's very soft and spongy like foam. Once you are through the gloss you are into the foam and you have to reseal it.
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- Micro-cracks after sanding (Small).JPG (65.86 KiB) Viewed 14525 times
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- Lip Cracks 1 (Small).JPG (51 KiB) Viewed 14526 times
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- Lip Cracks 2 (Small).JPG (56.07 KiB) Viewed 14526 times
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- Lip Cracks 3 (Small).JPG (51.81 KiB) Viewed 14526 times
Last edited by Spasso on Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:03 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Next was blow down and application of a light bodied Vinyl Repair glue. I was careful not to put it on too thick as it was harder to sand off than the surrounding soft material. It is a long and tedious process to lay each bead but that's part of the game.
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- Vinyl Application (Small).JPG (44.25 KiB) Viewed 14524 times
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- Vinyl Sealant Repair (Small).JPG (61.5 KiB) Viewed 14524 times
Last edited by Spasso on Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Next was re-sand with special attention to the raised bead areas along all the cracks, this includes the ones on top not shown.
Because the original gloss coat was damaged, the amount of sanding was different to get everything smooth the final application of paint was inconsistent due to different rates of absorption.
Any place that the gray primer was left on the upper surface showed micro-cracks through the new paint. Not totally unexpected.
The positive outcome was the elimination of the really big splits along the aft edge.
I ditched the bogus CF roundel and installed a blue one I had laying around.
Because the original gloss coat was damaged, the amount of sanding was different to get everything smooth the final application of paint was inconsistent due to different rates of absorption.
Any place that the gray primer was left on the upper surface showed micro-cracks through the new paint. Not totally unexpected.
The positive outcome was the elimination of the really big splits along the aft edge.
I ditched the bogus CF roundel and installed a blue one I had laying around.
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- RH Corner and Lip (Small).JPG (40 KiB) Viewed 14523 times
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- New Lip (Small).JPG (41.88 KiB) Viewed 14523 times
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- Duplicolor Vinyl Spray (Small).JPG (49.84 KiB) Viewed 14523 times
Last edited by Spasso on Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:07 pm, edited 4 times in total.
Probably the most fun was converting the original "635 CSI" emblem to the phantom "645 CSI" to denote the turbo six series that never existed.
The extra old rivet holes in the emblem were filled with the 3M BLACK Weather Strip adhesive which was then also used to mount the emblem.
The extra old rivet holes in the emblem were filled with the 3M BLACK Weather Strip adhesive which was then also used to mount the emblem.
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- Rear Lip & Emblem (Small).JPG (52.02 KiB) Viewed 14522 times
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- New Roundel & Model Number (Small).JPG (40.36 KiB) Viewed 14522 times
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- Open Rivet Holes (Small).JPG (53.49 KiB) Viewed 14522 times
Last edited by Spasso on Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:10 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Back before the bean counters ran everything the numbers were riveted on and had to be ground off to remove the numbers. The hole were later filled with 3M BLACK Weatherstrip adhesive.
(Yes, the ugly muffler is going bye-bye) Then I can push that rear bumper in like I did the front.
(Yes, the ugly muffler is going bye-bye) Then I can push that rear bumper in like I did the front.
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- Rear (Small).JPG (77.94 KiB) Viewed 14904 times
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- Placement of New Numbers (Small).JPG (51.53 KiB) Viewed 14904 times
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- Number Removal (Small).JPG (50.74 KiB) Viewed 14904 times
Last edited by Spasso on Mon Jan 13, 2014 11:44 pm, edited 8 times in total.
No build thread - the little kids make its hard enough to get the work done in the first place!
I am dangerously close to having my MS wired up for at least a start situation. Going to go throught the pre- start tests before putting power at it tonight and tomorrow.... Supposed to be using ASP remote tuning too... Still a lot of wiring and routing to do, but I needed a win... So I figure I would at least get it going.
21 mph is pretty good... You're not driving it hard enough
I am dangerously close to having my MS wired up for at least a start situation. Going to go throught the pre- start tests before putting power at it tonight and tomorrow.... Supposed to be using ASP remote tuning too... Still a lot of wiring and routing to do, but I needed a win... So I figure I would at least get it going.
21 mph is pretty good... You're not driving it hard enough
1987 635CSI 5spd
1984 928S Black/Black 5spd
1988 Lotus Esprit - LS1 swap
1996 VFR750
Other stuff not nearly interesting
1984 928S Black/Black 5spd
1988 Lotus Esprit - LS1 swap
1996 VFR750
Other stuff not nearly interesting
I checked the differential data tag and it reads S 325 0581 so I assume it's a posi 3.25:1 Diff but I think my speedo is off.Spasso wrote:I checked mileage on my last tank of gas, mostly freeway at 65 MPH and got 21 MPH. Driving to work daily.
A pleasant surprise.
The speedo reads 65/70 on the way home as usual but I am taking up to 8 more minutes to get there. This is an electronic speedo drive on this 5-speed from what I can tell. Originally the car was an automatic.
Would a speedo gear in the transmission still play a factor?
Last edited by Spasso on Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:18 pm, edited 4 times in total.
It's my daily right now, I don't want to beat it.9mil wrote:No build thread - the little kids make its hard enough to get the work done in the first place!
I am dangerously close to having my MS wired up for at least a start situation. Going to go throught the pre- start tests before putting power at it tonight and tomorrow.... Supposed to be using ASP remote tuning too... Still a lot of wiring and routing to do, but I needed a win... So I figure I would at least get it going.
21 mph is pretty good... You're not driving it hard enough
Sorry to hear you aren't making the progress you would like.. That life thing takes over as you well know.
I have about 5k of electrical to do on the house and a new roof, about 20k.
I'll figure out how to spring some money out of it for other things.