Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023

Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 12:00 am

9mil wrote: Also- not sure if it is an optical illusion or was an older picture - but it looks like your wastegate signal line off the compressor housing is capped off with tape from when it was powder coated-

The capped off fitting was from an older picture. It was just tape to mask off for painting I assume. I wasn't involved at that time. The port is in use at this time.

9mil wrote:PO had some questionable tastes in colors BTW . Your a betwr man than I for dealing with it!

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When I adjusted the valves I stripped and painted the cam cover and charge tube gloss black. (High Heat Engine paint)

The inside of the cam cover got a good scrubbing and flush during the process. (It was fun scraping the white over-spray out of the inside of the oil-fill hole.)

I painted the charge tube black after I had the blow-off bung welded on.

I wouldn't mind highlighting the ridges and BMW script on the cam cover with silver to set things off but need to wait for the black to fully cure and the weather to warm up. My shop isn't the warmest these days.

Can't do much about the lime green. A repaint of the intake manifold would require extensive disassembly that I don't have time for (or desire to deal with) at moment.

Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 4:15 am

Spasso wrote:
It was obvious the drain tube in the drain back flange and the pipe in the block didn't come close to matching up and the hose was kinked and collapsed.

A picture from the build thread shows the two lining up. But no longer.

Shown are comparative pictures of "correct routing" and "as found."

I've come to the conclusion that the drain-back flanges shown in each of the two previous pictures are two different parts.

The good one appears to be longer from the tube end to the drain plug than the one that is on the car presently.

I guess the previous owner wanted to keep the other one, which has me wondering if the turbos are even the same in both pictures.

Anyway, I knew I was picking up a project when I made this trade, I keep wondering what I'm going to "find" next.

I made a fillet cut across the top of the drain-back flange I have now and flattened the angle enough to match the block fitting so at least the oil doesn't have to go over a 1/2" hump before making it into the crank case. That can't be good for the turbo..

The cut in the flange was welded this morning and I did a mock-up with a new OEM drain hose. Everything looks spot on so with luck I should have it on in the next day or so, that is, if I can drag my but out to a 28f degree shop in the morning.

Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 6:58 pm

Fixed.
Now I can go back to installing the new spark plugs, heat shields and the charge tube. Next step is to design and build a proper intake route, relocate the MAF and filter etc................................

9mil · Post by **9mil** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:46 pm

Damn - that is getting it done!

Those 2 pics do look oddly different- guess the return outlet can be closked incorrectly....

where did you get that replacement return tube? I used some hose that i know isnt going to last long and need to get the right thing- although i know it will be a PIA to redo...

I get to clean 2 bad injectors tongiht in hopes of reviving them - still sounds good running on only 4 though!

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Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 11:25 pm

9mil wrote:Damn - that is getting it done!

Those 2 pics do look oddly different- guess the return outlet can be closked incorrectly....

where did you get that replacement return tube? I used some hose that i know isnt going to last long and need to get the right thing- although i know it will be a PIA to redo...

I get to clean 2 bad injectors tongiht in hopes of reviving them - still sounds good running on only 4 though!

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I'm still not sure that it was a clocking issue. The length of the drain back flange appears to be different between the two pictures.

If mine was longer it would have been lined up pretty close .

The hose is an OEM part, specific for the application, for use with HOT OIL, 1985 BMW E23 745i turbo,

Found here,
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=50

Hose Part number, 11421278212
Get the correct clamps while you are at it. P/N 07129952113
Gasket P/N 11421730263
The hose price of 30.44 shown is invalid. Shop around a little and it is cheaper elsewhere.

Pelican can get it for you special order, http://www.pelicanparts.com or you may be able to source it locally at a commercial hose and fitting shop.
Dimensions are 21.5 X 28 X 60
You need to make sure it is designed for hot oil application.

Easy to change the hose but you need to order a new gasket for the drain flange.
1) Remove the flange and hose together, disconnect from the block. (One allen bolt is accessed through the drain plug of the flange.)
2) Install new hose on flange.
3) Attach gasket to drain flange with a thin coat of Loctite Anaerobic sealer (#218?, the clear red stuff, non-hardening)
4) Insert new hose onto the block fitting as you reinstall the flange to the turbo.
5) Use BLUE Loctite on the bolts when you re-install.

9mil · Post by **9mil** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 2:33 am

Thanks-!that just took all the guesswork out of it completely. Now if I can only get it running on all 6 and broken in I will be in a good spot.
Is that a reworked k27 or a stock unit?

Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 2:39 am

I was told it was a rebuilt K27.
I found a "KKK" in the compressor casting today but haven't really looked that hard for any other markings yet.
********************************
Edit:
You know, if I had half a brain I would look at the blue data plate on the compressor housing that you can see in the build pictures.

I tried to read it through a mirror today without much luck. I need to stand on my head in there so my eyes will focus.

Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 9:49 pm

Verified today that the turbo is a K27.
Got everything put back together and she fired right up.
No weird noises.
The plugs slid in smooth as butter.
Heat shields installed

I could only run for a few minutes then broke off to go to work.

I need to run it up to full temp and calibrate the controller for the cooling fan then I think I can actually drive the thing a little now that I have a functioning instrument cluster, semi-safe wiring and cooling fan controller installed.

I don't like not having a true oil pressure gauge and would like to add a oil temp gauge at a minimum, not to mention the other REAL gauges that should be in the car.

All I have now is the boost/vac gauge and the OEM water temp gauge to work off of right now.

I have seen preformed PVC gauge clusters for "A" pillar installations, mostly for diesel trucks, that I think I would like to try to adapt. The location puts everything at eye level which to me would be much better than down in the console somewhere.

I guess I'll search around and see if anyone has done the "A" pillar gauge installation and go from there.

Wouldn't you know it, I finally get the thing kind of road worthy and a little snow is forecast in the next few days.

peterpilot · Post by **peterpilot** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 7:07 pm

Impressive!

Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:19 am

Still snowing today and will continue for another two days. Dang!
I haven't had a chance to run it long enough to get it up to full operating temps yet..

9mil · Post by **9mil** » Sat Jan 21, 2012 2:48 pm

Any update? I'm using you to get me motivated to walk out and work on mine!

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Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Sat Jan 21, 2012 10:22 pm

9mil wrote:Any update? I'm using you to get me motivated to walk out and work on mine!

9[/img]

It's been 25f degrees in the shop for the last couple of days. Too cold for my salamander to heat things up enough to work out there. (No insulation yet).

The snow is almost melted but now I have to work weekends to get the schedule caught up again.

The next step is to run the car up to temps, check for leaks and calibrate the cooling fan controller.

From there I should be able to start fabrication on the intake. I have to take in to consideration the size of the intercooler I am using and the routing of the charge tubes before I finalize anything.

I'm afraid progress will be somewhat slow for a while because of the overtime required at work right now, BUT, that means more money for more parts and materials.

Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 5:30 am

Well, I got the old girl running last Sunday and took my Dad out for lunch.
I calibrated the cooling fan controller and it worked just right in town.
The car ran well and pulled good through the gears on the way to town.
My Dad got a big kick out of it.
After getting into town I noticed that it would hiccup a bit between gears but didn't strike me as anything serious.

We drove home and it ran just fine.

Today I went out to move it to the other bay for an oil change and that is when the fun began.

It started up and went to fast idle as usual. I let it warm up a bit and started to back it out.

As soon as I touched the throttle the engine started to stumble at which time I noticed black smoke coming out of the tail pipe.

I can only assume because it went to full rich when I touched the pedal.

I shut the car off and let it sit while I checked all of the connections for the idle control valve, temp sensors and the MAF. All seemed good so I tried a restart. Same thing.
I checked all the fuses and those looked good as well

Normal start up but as soon as I just touch the throttle it goes to full rich and dies. Lots of black smoke.

I have done some reading and searching through the forums but the symptoms I have found don't quite fit what I have going on..

As far as I know, I haven't changed or altered anything on the engine that would affect the fuel injection or mapping.

A reminder that this is an M106 Turbo converted to MAF with a Miller WAR chip, 42 lb/hr injectors, 10 psi.. This thing has run like a champ up until today.

Note: It's still pretty cold out around here, if that makes any difference.

I'm not really sure where I should start..
Anyone with insight to this anomaly?

Thanks, DJ

Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 11:16 pm

I went here to find help. viewtopic.php?t=17310&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Got it solved with the help of the BigCoupe Brotherhood.

Testing:
1) I disconnected the plug from the throttle switch and turned the ignition on to see if power was in the connector. The book says "either" of the two outboard terminals should have 5 volts when grounded to the center terminal. The book said "either", not "both".

The test reveals ONE of the outboard terminals has 5 volts but I forgot to note whether it was term 2 or term 3. I'll check tomorrow.

2) I followed the instructions to test for continuity in the switch itself using table 'K' on Section 7, Page 31.

A) Closed throttle, terms 2 & 18 should have continuity. Test shows .9 ohms.

B) Part throttle, terms 2-18 & 3-18 should have NO continuity. Test shows NO continuity. I forgot to check the point of transition from closed to part throttle. Retest tomorrow.

C) Wide Open Throttle, terms 3 & 18 should have continuity. Test shows .7 ohms.
***************************************
1) I rechecked the TPS and readjusted it. Not sure if it really needed adjusting but did it to eliminate the possibility.
2) Checked the Idle Control Valve, good to go.
3) Checked the ECU connector, good to go
4) Pulled the MAF and rinsed it with carb cleaner, then gently blew dry. (No visible contamination that I could see.)
This appears to be a "generic" piece, no brand type visible. Part numbers: 1L3F-12B579-AB
AFH90-02
5L22
It's a Hotwire type with Thermistor.

I noticed that two of the female contacts inside the wire harness connector were damaged and folded. I used a dental pick to straighten them out as much as possible and cleaned with carb cleaner.
I will be hitting "Pick-a-Part" for a new female connector.

I put the MAF back in and tried to start the car.
It fired after half a revolution and hit on all six.

I let it warm up before touching the throttle and it ran perfectly.
I drove it a quarter mile to test the turbo and ran it up on the rack.
I immediately drained the "gasified" oil. What a stinky mess.

I want to thank everyone for pointing me in the right direction.
Fuel Injection is not my strong suit. I am more of a "nuts and bolts" guy.
I was really pleased to see the detailed testing procedures in the Bentley.
Awesome!

Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Thu Feb 09, 2012 3:59 am

Just for future reference,
the 1L3F-12B579-AB MAF is OEM 2001-2004 Ford Mustang Cobra from what I have found in the web.

Gotta love it.

Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 5:51 am

More saga on the MAF.
viewtopic.php?t=17310&start=15

Replaced the connector with another from Pick n Pull. Nice shape, like new..

Ran good at first but started bucking at neutral throttle during cruise.
Starting surging at idle once in a while.

Pulls hard under pedal so it's doing some stuff right.

I am thinking the MAF is crapping out.

Film at 11:00,

9mil · Post by **9mil** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 1:34 am

Spasso wrote:More saga on the MAF.
viewtopic.php?t=17310&start=15

Replaced the connector with another from Pick n Pull. Nice shape, like new..

Ran good at first but started bucking at neutral throttle during cruise.
Starting surging at idle once in a while.

Pulls hard under pedal so it's doing some stuff right.

I am thinking the MAF is crapping out.

Film at 11:00,

I think your MAF is gone - but I think you already are going down that path..... If it was a volvo there would be no question!junk....

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Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 4:02 am

Ordered one this morning.

9mil · Post by **9mil** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 3:26 am

Spasso wrote:Ordered one this morning.

Did it work?

Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 5:25 am

I finally got around to installing the "new" MAF this morning.

When I received it a couple of weeks ago I found that the socket on the MAF did not match the connector I just replaced on the wire harness. WTF?
The new MAF had a rectangular socket with rounded ends, the old one had squared ends.

I looked closer at the old MAF and found that when the previous owner converted this car to MAF he retained the old OEM rectangular socket and plug and MODIFIED THE MAF by converting it to the old style socket!!

The joint between the squared rectangular socket and the old MAF was not sealed and I am thinking that some "weather" got in there and caused the malfunction(s).

SO, I ordered the correct connector and had to wait another week for it to get here. I spliced it in this morning and installed the MAF.
(Note: This connector had 6 wires and the MAF only four terminals so I had to make sure the splices were aligned. The wires on either end were not used.)

The car fired right up and ran pretty good. The exhaust smelled good, no black smoke etc....
I took it for a test drive and the bucking and lean-out at neutral throttle was pretty much gone.
I still get a tiny flat spot during transition from closed throttle to acceleration, otherwise the car is running better than ever and I can finally drive the dang thing!

mikeB7 · Post by **mikeB7** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 6:29 am

I like your analytical/mechanical skills. Looks like this car fell into the right hands.

Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 8:59 pm

mikeB7 wrote:I like your analytical/mechanical skills. Looks like this car fell into the right hands.

Thanks for the compliment Mike but I owe it to the great help I get from the guys here.
It really reduces the level of "floundering" I experience when I tackle something I am not well versed in.

Now I can get back to redesigning the intake and cold air inlet.
From there I should be able to start looking at an intercooler set up.

Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Mon Mar 12, 2012 12:19 am

Boy, I just can't seem to catch a break with this car.
I went out today to take it for another shake-down cruise and it wouldn't start.
It was running fine when I shut it off a week ago. Nothings changed.
It turned over but no fire.
I think I could smell fuel but ran out of time to investigate further.

Not really sure where to go from here. Good grief.................

Spasso · Post by **Spasso** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 8:32 pm

More investigations here, viewtopic.php?p=125133#125133

9mil · Post by **9mil** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 11:57 pm

Any updates?