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Spasso's Turbo Shark #0610023

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Mon Jun 11, 2012 1:49 am

I drove it today and everything was working............sort of. The fuel gauge dipped a couple of times and started working again.

I can only surmise that it is the main plugs on the back......................and the POLTERGEIST!

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Post by tschultz » Mon Jun 11, 2012 2:49 am

We need some videos!!

Also what do you like about it as compared to the early euro?

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Mon Jun 11, 2012 5:59 am

tschultz wrote:We need some videos!!

Also what do you like about it as compared to the early euro?
When I get an intercooler on this thing and can stand on it without hurting it I'll try to get some videos.
Right now it sounds just like any another M30 with a 3" exhaust, mainly because I keep my foot out of it, (mostly).:wink:

What do I like about it over my early Euro?
The extra torque when the turbo spools up.
The M30 (M106) is a great engine for low-end torque to begin with but adding a little boost makes acceleration feel effortless, even below 3000 rpm. (10 psi)

The K27 is a fairly small turbo and starts to spool at relatively low rpms, (perfect for a portly 745 with an automatic transmission).

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:59 pm

Driving to work today, another anomaly.
The engine would momentarily quit and the Tach would drop to zero, just for a second, like someone was switching the key off for a second.

It happened three times and then ran fine the rest of the way in.

The ignition switch in this thing is shot so I wonder if that might have something to do with it. I jiggled the key but don't know if that made a difference.

Any insight or probable cause?

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Mon Jun 18, 2012 1:56 am

An update on the driving issues after I replaced the MAF.
* In general the transition from acceleration to cruise would cause the engine to miss and some drive train bucking.
* Driving home during a rain storm the other night the missing during cruise was even worse, it would barely run.
At first I thought it was electrical but when I gave it a little throttle it would smooth right out so that has me thinking it is a fueling problem.

* I had a flash of inspiration Saturday that these drivability issues might be centered around the O2 Sensor.

* I had not checked it's condition since the heavy flooding that occurred when the old MAF malfunctioned a few months ago.

* I pulled it out and it looked like a small charcoal briquet.
I washed it down with Brakleen and blew it off with compressed air.
I then held a propane torch to it VERY briefly to dry it out and re-installed it.

* The car ran noticeably better with smoother transitions and no pronounced missing or bucking.

* Also, the instrument cluster worked perfectly.

Mind boggling.....................................

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Sun Aug 12, 2012 1:43 am

So, I have finally completed the installation of the "new" intake and cold-air box using the aluminum casting and 90 degree boot from the 745. (Thanks to 9mil)

I purchased some 3.00"dia, .065" wall, 6061 to extend the location of the MAF into the forward corner of the engine bay more.

To bead the ends I made a couple of beaders, one 3.00"dia and the other 2.50" for the charge tubing later.
Attachments
Tubing Beaders front (Small).JPG
Tubing Beaders front (Small).JPG (55.05 KiB) Viewed 4783 times
Tubing Beaders side (Small).JPG
Tubing Beaders side (Small).JPG (56.25 KiB) Viewed 4783 times
Last edited by Spasso on Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Sun Aug 12, 2012 1:50 am

I was told that the MAF was very sensitive to total volume flow and that venting the blow-off valve to atmosphere would cause the engine to stumble.

Up until now I have been experiencing quirky throttle transitions and stumbles here and there. Nothing really smooth by any means.

Therefore I decided to recirculate the blow-off to see how much difference it would make.

I added a tube to the forward side of the elbow casting to hook the BF valve to.

I can just barely squeeze it up past the frame and exhaust manifold to install.
Attachments
Welded Tube 2 (Small).JPG
Welded Tube 2 (Small).JPG (56 KiB) Viewed 4782 times
Welded Recirc Tube (Small).JPG
Welded Recirc Tube (Small).JPG (56.71 KiB) Viewed 4782 times
Prep for Recirc Tube (Small).JPG
Prep for Recirc Tube (Small).JPG (53.9 KiB) Viewed 4782 times
Last edited by Spasso on Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:38 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Sun Aug 12, 2012 1:53 am

Next was installation of the elbow casting, 90 degree boot.
Attachments
Intake Tube, upper (Small).JPG
Intake Tube, upper (Small).JPG (68.61 KiB) Viewed 4781 times
Last edited by Spasso on Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Sun Aug 12, 2012 2:01 am

It took hours and hours with cardboard to make a template for the cold-air box sides and bottom.

I had to grind all the bracketry off the fenderwell and prime and paint that.

I thought about using aluminum because it is easier to work with but went with 16 gauge steel because I could weld it with my MIG, not that I am a good welder .
I don't do it enough to stay in practice and make pretty welds but previous training taught me enough to know good burn-in for strength.
Attachments
Cold Air Box inside welds (Small).JPG
Cold Air Box inside welds (Small).JPG (36.73 KiB) Viewed 4780 times
Cold Air Box, Outside (Small).JPG
Cold Air Box, Outside (Small).JPG (33.28 KiB) Viewed 4780 times
Last edited by Spasso on Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Sun Aug 12, 2012 2:02 am

Mock-up of the intake and box.
I ended up removing 2.5 FEET of extra wire from the MAF harness..................?????????????????????
Not needed!
********
I re-plumbed the Blow-off valve, all temporary until the permanent charge tubing is fabbed.
Attachments
Upper Intake 2 (Small).JPG
Upper Intake 2 (Small).JPG (72.13 KiB) Viewed 4779 times
Upper Intake 3 (Small).JPG
Upper Intake 3 (Small).JPG (76.1 KiB) Viewed 4779 times
Last edited by Spasso on Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:43 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Sun Aug 12, 2012 2:09 am

I painted the box inside and out with Duplicolor High Heat (500 degree with ceramic) primer and Aluminum engine paint.

I then faced the outside with 1/4" thick, foil faced jute insulation and taped of the seams with aluminum repair tape.

I repositioned the coil and mounted the box to the core support and inner fender.

The cold air comes through two holes in the radiator core support, behind the headlights, which is fed by cold air from the grill just inboard of the headlights.

I blocked off any other open holes in the core support to maximize flow.

Eventually I'll make a trip to the salvage yard and pick up a blade-seal off another car and glue on around the top.
Attachments
Final Install Top 2 (Small).JPG
Final Install Top 2 (Small).JPG (75.29 KiB) Viewed 4653 times
Final Install Backside 3 (Small).JPG
Final Install Backside 3 (Small).JPG (76.95 KiB) Viewed 4653 times
Insulated Cold Air Box 1 (Small).JPG
Insulated Cold Air Box 1 (Small).JPG (47.05 KiB) Viewed 4653 times
Insulated Cold Air Box, inside (Small).JPG
Insulated Cold Air Box, inside (Small).JPG (36.07 KiB) Viewed 4653 times
Last edited by Spasso on Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:47 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Post by Spasso » Sun Aug 12, 2012 2:38 am

Some thoughts about the before and after:

* If you look at earlier engine bay shots you will see how the old intake passed between the frame and exhaust manifold.
It was flattened at this point with a large hammer, effectively turning it into an oval at this point.

The boot that connected the "oval" tube to the turbo inlet was a step down type that was distorted after installation, it's connection to the intake tube had no bead.

Because of the design and installation of the existing intake I am guessing that the flow was inconsistent and it may have been leaking which would have sent the MAF into a tizzy.

Blowing boost off into the atmosphere probably exacerbated the problem.

* The current intake starts with a 4.00" MAF and steps down to a 3.00" straight tube, a smooth bore boot and the cast elbow from the 745. Everything is tight and sealed. Flow should be consistent.
Blow-off recirculation should maintain volume in the intake tract.

* I've been driving this car for two days. Mostly trips into town. I have used hard throttle, light throttle and everything in between. The throttle transitions have been smooth and predictable, no bucking, no stumbling. The idle is steady with no hunting. It's like driving a well tuned naturally aspirated car, AS IT SHOULD BE.

I still need to do some extended freeway cruising so the jury is still out on that part.

* Of course, true to form, something quit working while driving around. The cooling fan quit coming on automatically, though my manual override still worked. Blown 20 amp fuse in the supply to the rheostat controller. Probably my fault too.

Also, the blinking "check" light used to go off the first time I hit the brakes. No longer. I now have to push the "check" button on the check panel.

I'll add more as time goes by.

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Sun Aug 12, 2012 2:49 am

One other thing, now that the windshield washer bottle has been eliminated I found that I can use the intensive cleaning reservoir up by the firewall as my primary washer bottle. I just have to get it running and plumbed

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Post by tschultz » Sun Aug 12, 2012 3:34 am

Sounds like you have been busy! =D>

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Sun Aug 12, 2012 3:54 am

tschultz wrote:Sounds like you have been busy! =D>
Everything takes for ever, "What should take a day, takes a week".
Wanna put that part there? You have to move three others and rework the wiring etc.......................................
Glad it's a hobby and not a living. :wink:

I want to move the giant muffler further under the car so it's not hanging out like a big dong and push the rear bumper in like I did to the front.

Also need to weld another O2 bung on the header pipe for future testing.

Next I need to remount the oil cooler, or I should say MOUNT the oil cooler and re-run the lines.
It's hanging by one bolt right now and completely in the way of where I need to put the intercooler.

Never ends

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:34 pm

Thought I would tackle a small project this week and make a positive crankcase ventilation system that won't crap up the intake and charge tubing.

I picked up this Mishimoto Oil Separator Tank from Summit Racing.
P/N MIO-MMOCC-LA

I was attracted to it because it had a 1 qt capacity and a level tube.
Also, both barbs were on top.

I was looking at another with a removable top and screen media inside but they wanted 150.00 for it. Too much.

This one should work okay.
I will install it with a check valve between the tank and the inlet boot above the turbo (downstream from the MAF)

Waiting for some rubber adapters and the check valve before I do the hose.
Attachments
Installed- side (Small).JPG
Installed- side (Small).JPG (121.03 KiB) Viewed 4900 times
Installed- top (Small).JPG
Installed- top (Small).JPG (123.36 KiB) Viewed 4900 times
Last edited by Spasso on Mon Jan 13, 2014 11:50 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Post by 9mil » Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:40 am

I dig it! I was waiting to see what you came up with before I pulled the trigger on some thing... I'm still trying to figure out MS cabling currently- but hope to make some headway this week.
1987 635CSI 5spd, M106 Turbo on MS K24 with 35r-Red/Black
1988 Lotus Esprit - LS1 swap
1996 VFR750
Other stuff not nearly interesting

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:58 am

9mil wrote:I dig it! I was waiting to see what you came up with before I pulled the trigger on some thing... I'm still trying to figure out MS cabling currently- but hope to make some headway this week.
Keep pluggin.
Hopefully this winter I can keep moving on this thing.

I've taken it out 4 or 5 times this month and it is running really good. Setting up the blow-off valve to recirculate is what did the trick.
Way better throttle inputs now. Much smoother.

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Mon Nov 05, 2012 8:20 pm

I tried a check valve in the PCV system but it set up too much resistance to the flow so I took it out.
No more crankcase smell.
Last edited by Spasso on Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by 9mil » Tue Nov 06, 2012 2:14 pm

That is exactly what I need to accomplish... When I hooked the vent back to the intake it ran so much better... That was with my original AFM and chip setup. I am guessing even with MS the vent needs to be there to aid in ring sealing or bottom end pressure- so I just need to get it done!
1987 635CSI 5spd, M106 Turbo on MS K24 with 35r-Red/Black
1988 Lotus Esprit - LS1 swap
1996 VFR750
Other stuff not nearly interesting

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Wed Nov 07, 2012 2:36 am

Positive Crankcase Ventilation helps any engine a lot.

When I had the check valve installed it allowed too much pressure to build up in the crankcase and I started getting smoke out the tail pipe.

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Post by ///Moe » Sat Nov 10, 2012 12:27 am

How many whp are you aiming for with this engine?
I'm quite familiar with these engines and I like your build.
E24 635CSiA 85' (garage queen)
E24 628CSiA 83' (turbo/manual?)
E23 745i 82' (turbo project)
E23 728i 86' (745i project)
E23 728i 79' (part's car) [x]
E28 525i 81' (part's car) [x]

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differential

Post by 1988shark » Sat Nov 10, 2012 3:06 am

What is the specs on the differential you are running with the turbo? I have a lead on a 2.93 LSD 210mm with a big case. Would this be an ideal combo for a turbo in the 635?

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Spasso
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Post by Spasso » Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:32 am

///Moe wrote:How many whp are you aiming for with this engine?
I'm quite familiar with these engines and I like your build.
Right now at 10 psi, non-intercooled it might be making 230 to 250 hp at the flywheel. Just a guess using my butt-dyno.

Instead of aiming for a specific horsepower I am looking to optimize performance based on the components of this build, namely, an M106 with the K27 Turbo with the largest intercooler I can fit behind the airdam.

Foremost to the build is to maintain drivability and dependability so I will be going for a conservative set up at first. I don't want to go overboard and blow the guts out of this engine either.

I realize the K27 isn't the best turbo for really strong performance at the higher RPM's, it runs out of breath. However, it DOES provide strong low to mid-range boost which is where this 6-cylinder likes to pull.

I need to install the IC/ charge tubing and then work on the tune and fuel maps.
The 42 lb/hr injectors leaves me a lot of room for boost though I will probably tune for 15 psi at first and dyno then to see what the RWHP is.

When all is said and done, the horse power will be what it will be when the build is optimized and all limitations taken into consideration.

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Re: differential

Post by Spasso » Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:40 am

1988shark wrote:What is the specs on the differential you are running with the turbo? I have a lead on a 2.93 LSD 210mm with a big case. Would this be an ideal combo for a turbo in the 635?
My Diff is a posi unit but I haven't taken the time to see what ratio it is.
It feels like it is somewhere around 3.25:1 (per the Tach readings at freeway speeds.)
Except for getting the car rolling the first 25 feet my first gear is pretty much worthless, I'm into second before I am half way across an intersection.

Because of all the extra torque from a turbo I don't see any reason why that 2.93:1 wouldn't work. You should run a stronger clutch though.

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