1985 Euro Resto Blog

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1988shark
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UPDATE AUG 30th, 2012

Post by 1988shark »

SUCCESS!
After and hour of contorting my body under the car to replace the ruptured fuel line a few cranks later the old bird started! Sounded like a modified bike since the exhaust is not connected.
Sad to say my triumph was short live....Since the P.O said there was a head gasket problem, I was looking at the idiot lights and the water did not come on but the oil light did. I go over to the engine bay and see all this motor oil gushing out of the filter housing! What an idiot! Change the oil and not secure the filter. Lesson learned on this car, I wont leave anything to chance.

Talking about PISSED! I just cleaned up the garage before vacation. 40lbs of cat litter later I went back for another 40lbs to continue the cleanup after this 1st phase gets soaked up. Guess I gotta take the good and the bad that comes along each step. Any suggestions on what else I should look for? I am open to suggestions.
Last edited by 1988shark on Thu Aug 30, 2012 10:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
kronus

Post by kronus »

Ouch! Kitty litter is a lifesaver when that happens..

If it has a headgasket issue, it'll blow white smoke out of the exhaust when it gets up to temp. Burning oil is blue smoke, and happens at high RPMs if your rings are on the way out.
1988shark
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Post by 1988shark »

kronus wrote:Ouch! Kitty litter is a lifesaver when that happens..

If it has a headgasket issue, it'll blow white smoke out of the exhaust when it gets up to temp. Burning oil is blue smoke, and happens at high RPMs if your rings are on the way out.
Thanks, Kronus. I will look out for that, now I gotta pick up a strap to remove the filter, a new filter just in case. Hopefully the X-thread did not cause any damage to the seal. Yeah, I think I will order one of those too just to be on the safe side.
kronus

Post by kronus »

You shouldn't need a strap. It's a canister-type filter, tightened with a 17mm bolt from the top of the housing IIRC.
1988shark
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Post by 1988shark »

kronus wrote:You shouldn't need a strap. It's a canister-type filter, tightened with a 17mm bolt from the top of the housing IIRC.
So, once I loosen this bolt the canister will drop from the cover that I can align it properly?
kronus

Post by kronus »

that's the idea.
1988shark
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Post by 1988shark »

kronus wrote:that's the idea.
Thanks Kronus, I got it done no leaks from the filter housing, I guess the seal was not damaged. I do need to top of the oil. I did not run it long enough to warm up on a starving engine. I have a lot on the table with school work but hopefully I can squeeze some time in to bolt up the downpipe to the exhaust so I can hear myself think. According the Brucey's info the 1988 tranny is pretty robust so I think I will move it to the 85. I started shopping around for different clutch kits. Sachs offers 2 types 652.. and a 752. but it only list the 752 for the M6 and from 1988. I was interested in a 6 puck disc for applications up to 460 HP for street use. My goal is 350 to 400HP. What are the compatibility issues if any of installing the 88 transmission in the automatic 85 Euro? What would be my laundry list of parts I can salvage or have to source?
kronus

Post by kronus »

You'll need:

- pedal box
- clutch master cylinder
- clutch slave cylinder
- transmission
- transmission mount
- manual driveshaft
- giubo
- manual flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, pilot bearing for an M30B34

Another thing you have to be aware of is the pulse and reference sensors. in 1988 e24s came with Motronic 1.3, which uses a crank position sensor that reads off the front pulley. (known as a CPS) an '85 Euro will be using Motronic 1.0, which has a pulse and a reference sensor, both mounted in the transmission bellhousing. If you're swapping an 88 trans in, you'll need to switch all the engine management to 1.3 as well, since the 88 trans doesn't have the pulse/ref sensor holes in the bellhousing.
1988shark
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Post by 1988shark »

kronus wrote:You'll need:

- pedal box CHECK
- clutch master cylinder - WILL BUY NEW ONE,
- clutch slave cylinder - WILL BUY NEW ONE
- transmission - CHECK
- transmission mount - WILL BUY NEW ONE
- manual driveshaft - CHECK
- giubo - WILL BUY NEW ALONG WITH SHAFT SUPPORT BEARING
- manual flywheel - LOOKING FOR A LIGHTENED ONE TO BUY OR MODIFY WHAT I HAVE
pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, pilot bearing for an M30B34 - WILL BUY NEW CLUTCH KIT (PRESSURE PLATE, DISC AND THROWOUT BEARING) AND A PILOT FOR M30B34
QUESTION B35 STARTS FROM WHAT YEAR??

Another thing you have to be aware of is the pulse and reference sensors. in 1988 e24s came with Motronic 1.3, which uses a crank position sensor that reads off the front pulley. (known as a CPS) an '85 Euro will be using Motronic 1.0, which has a pulse and a reference sensor, both mounted in the transmission bellhousing. If you're swapping an 88 trans in, you'll need to switch all the engine management to 1.3 as well, since the 88 trans doesn't have the pulse/ref sensor holes in the bellhousing.
- pedal box - REUSE
- clutch master cylinder - WILL BUY NEW ONE,
- clutch slave cylinder - WILL BUY NEW ONE
- transmission - REUSE
- transmission mount - WILL BUY NEW ONE
- manual driveshaft - REUSE
- giubo - WILL BUY NEW ALONG WITH SHAFT SUPPORT BEARING
- manual flywheel - LOOKING FOR A LIGHTENED ONE TO BUY OR MODIFY WHAT I HAVE
pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, pilot bearing for an M30B34 - WILL BUY NEW CLUTCH KIT
QUESTION...
1. The 88 is B35 correct and the 85 is a B34?
2. Is there a writeup on doing Motronic 1.0 to 1.3 conversion somewhere??
3. How would this conversion affect the throttle body, would I need to replace it since the wiring to the sensor is different than on the 88?
4. Swapping the intake manifold is that a possibility and is it more efficient than the 3.2/3.5 intake on the '85? It would seem simpler to just yank the whole thing out throttle body and all (can you tell Im lazy?)
5. On a scale from 1 to 10, level of conversion difficulty 1.0 to 1.3 Motronic?
6. What will I loose on the 85 and gain by using the 88 Mgmt system?
7. Would there be any gains using the head from the '88 on the '85 block? or leave as is? The '85 has higher compression (more HP) than the '88 but I think the '88 has better air flow correct me if I'm wrong here.
After I get it running I plan on adding the Miller Warchip. Would I need to bother with the conversion anyway using this system?
***I need some guidance here as not to waste time and money*** Any input from the Seniors are welomed here. Thanks for the response Kronus.
kronus

Post by kronus »

1988shark wrote:
kronus wrote:You'll need:

- pedal box CHECK
- clutch master cylinder - WILL BUY NEW ONE,
- clutch slave cylinder - WILL BUY NEW ONE
- transmission - CHECK
- transmission mount - WILL BUY NEW ONE
- manual driveshaft - CHECK
- giubo - WILL BUY NEW ALONG WITH SHAFT SUPPORT BEARING
- manual flywheel - LOOKING FOR A LIGHTENED ONE TO BUY OR MODIFY WHAT I HAVE
pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, pilot bearing for an M30B34 - WILL BUY NEW CLUTCH KIT (PRESSURE PLATE, DISC AND THROWOUT BEARING) AND A PILOT FOR M30B34
QUESTION B35 STARTS FROM WHAT YEAR??

Another thing you have to be aware of is the pulse and reference sensors. in 1988 e24s came with Motronic 1.3, which uses a crank position sensor that reads off the front pulley. (known as a CPS) an '85 Euro will be using Motronic 1.0, which has a pulse and a reference sensor, both mounted in the transmission bellhousing. If you're swapping an 88 trans in, you'll need to switch all the engine management to 1.3 as well, since the 88 trans doesn't have the pulse/ref sensor holes in the bellhousing.
- pedal box - REUSE
- clutch master cylinder - WILL BUY NEW ONE,
- clutch slave cylinder - WILL BUY NEW ONE
- transmission - REUSE
- transmission mount - WILL BUY NEW ONE
- manual driveshaft - REUSE
- giubo - WILL BUY NEW ALONG WITH SHAFT SUPPORT BEARING
- manual flywheel - LOOKING FOR A LIGHTENED ONE TO BUY OR MODIFY WHAT I HAVE
pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, pilot bearing for an M30B34 - WILL BUY NEW CLUTCH KIT
QUESTION...
1. The 88 is B35 correct and the 85 is a B34?
2. Is there a writeup on doing Motronic 1.0 to 1.3 conversion somewhere??
3. How would this conversion affect the throttle body, would I need to replace it since the wiring to the sensor is different than on the 88?
4. Swapping the intake manifold is that a possibility and is it more efficient than the 3.2/3.5 intake on the '85? It would seem simpler to just yank the whole thing out throttle body and all (can you tell Im lazy?)
5. On a scale from 1 to 10, level of conversion difficulty 1.0 to 1.3 Motronic?
6. What will I loose on the 85 and gain by using the 88 Mgmt system?
7. Would there be any gains using the head from the '88 on the '85 block? or leave as is? The '85 has higher compression (more HP) than the '88 but I think the '88 has better air flow correct me if I'm wrong here.
After I get it running I plan on adding the Miller Warchip. Would I need to bother with the conversion anyway using this system?
***I need some guidance here as not to waste time and money*** Any input from the Seniors are welomed here. Thanks for the response Kronus.
1 - The 88 is a B35. I'm not sure what your 85 has... not familiar with euro motor generations.

2 - most likely. It's more often done on E28s, you will do well to search mye28 for conversion tips and guides. I've heard of 1.3 conversion kits being sold there, as well, which might guide you to any parts I may have forgotten.

3 - The throttle position sensor looks different between early and later models but it is functionally identical.

4 - The whole engine electrical harness is attached to the intake manifold, making it a real convenient way to upgrade to 1.3. I'd advise going this route unless you really really want to dig deep into it.

5 - no idea, haven't done it. If you're handy electrically it's easier, if you're handy mechanically it's harder. Swapping the whole manifold makes it not too bad.

6 - also no idea, haven't done it. mye28 forums will have answers to this.

7 - your car may have "dirty" euro b34 with 10:1 piano-top pistons, in which case I'm not sure the B35 head would go on there. I also don't know how to check if that's what you have, but you should be able to research that.
m_stance
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Post by m_stance »

Funny story actually, my dad was very interested in this exact car and I had personally spoke with the PO he talked about the new head and everything but once I saw the pictures missing headliner, auto transmission, and interior it threw me off I didn't go for it and found my Burgundrot running 85' euro which I am happy with but hey hopefully you get your money back and keep the car! =D>
1988shark
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Post by 1988shark »

m_stance wrote:Funny story actually, my dad was very interested in this exact car and I had personally spoke with the PO he talked about the new head and everything but once I saw the pictures missing headliner, auto transmission, and interior it threw me off I didn't go for it and found my Burgundrot running 85' euro which I am happy with but hey hopefully you get your money back and keep the car! =D>
As of now I haven't heard anything. All is quiet. It would be a disaster if I did not have the 88 to source a few items from (manual conversion). Even worse if I needed to drive this car to get to work. Yeah, the head is new but its basically striped of everything. It only has valves installed, no rockers, springs or cams. The car came with a new headliner in the box. Its off-white like an eggshell, don't know If I'll go that route or use alcantara. I am not keeping my hopes up on this, just take my lumps and move on.
I did get it started but have not run it long enough to determine if it really has a head gasket problem. I spent about 2 hrs this afternoon cleaning up the engine bay. There's still a bit more cleaning to do. I have to take the headlight grills out and get behind there to get the unreachable spots.
This week my goal is to do the 1.3 Motronic conversion and salvage the cruise control system from the 88. I'm Trying to source a new set of throttle cables for the install after the intake and valve over gets powdercoated. I'm still looking for a differential. I think I will head to the junkers in the morning, there's a 525 and a 540 in the lot. I might get lucky. While I'm there I need to find a missing front caliper bracket and master cylinder to complete my BBK. I got new rotors and ceramic pads in the mail, should be here tomorrow. I bought a strut brace and will be mailing that back tomorrow, the build quality is inferior to many I've seen. Slow and sure wins the race. Its great you actually got to drive your car. This one will probably sit for two years but when its completed I will look back and say the drive was worth all the struggles I had putting her back together.
kronus

Post by kronus »

Mine sat for a year and a half! It's totally worth it when you get it running good again :)
m_stance
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Post by m_stance »

1988shark wrote:
m_stance wrote:Funny story actually, my dad was very interested in this exact car and I had personally spoke with the PO he talked about the new head and everything but once I saw the pictures missing headliner, auto transmission, and interior it threw me off I didn't go for it and found my Burgundrot running 85' euro which I am happy with but hey hopefully you get your money back and keep the car! =D>
As of now I haven't heard anything. All is quiet. It would be a disaster if I did not have the 88 to source a few items from (manual conversion). Even worse if I needed to drive this car to get to work. Yeah, the head is new but its basically striped of everything. It only has valves installed, no rockers, springs or cams. The car came with a new headliner in the box. Its off-white like an eggshell, don't know If I'll go that route or use alcantara. I am not keeping my hopes up on this, just take my lumps and move on.
I did get it started but have not run it long enough to determine if it really has a head gasket problem. I spent about 2 hrs this afternoon cleaning up the engine bay. There's still a bit more cleaning to do. I have to take the headlight grills out and get behind there to get the unreachable spots.
This week my goal is to do the 1.3 Motronic conversion and salvage the cruise control system from the 88. I'm Trying to source a new set of throttle cables for the install after the intake and valve over gets powdercoated. I'm still looking for a differential. I think I will head to the junkers in the morning, there's a 525 and a 540 in the lot. I might get lucky. While I'm there I need to find a missing front caliper bracket and master cylinder to complete my BBK. I got new rotors and ceramic pads in the mail, should be here tomorrow. I bought a strut brace and will be mailing that back tomorrow, the build quality is inferior to many I've seen. Slow and sure wins the race. Its great you actually got to drive your car. This one will probably sit for two years but when its completed I will look back and say the drive was worth all the struggles I had putting her back together.
Glad to hear you've got all that set together, I really wish you luck with the project and hopefully it turns out to be another beautiful shark saved by a great enthusiast! lol I'm having issues with a short now somewhere I don't know exactly where but it throws out random fuses once in a while like AC blower, tailights, dash lights, headlights, radio, and on top of that it drains my battery so I dropped in a new one yesterday and we'll see how long it will go without dyeing out on me. I'm going to have it checked out by another electrician and hopefully he'll get it sorted out.
1988shark
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Post by 1988shark »

Glad to hear you've got all that set together, I really wish you luck with the project and hopefully it turns out to be another beautiful shark saved by a great enthusiast! lol I'm having issues with a short now somewhere I don't know exactly where but it throws out random fuses once in a while like AC blower, tailights, dash lights, headlights, radio, and on top of that it drains my battery so I dropped in a new one yesterday and we'll see how long it will go without dyeing out on me. I'm going to have it checked out by another electrician and hopefully he'll get it sorted out.
Its a labor of love. Check your connections in the trunk that the light does not stay on when closed. Some people even complained that the flashlight being the culprit of battery drain. You also have a connection for the hood light and interior when the doors open. Then, work your way to the fuse box. Personally, I think that's where the problem is since its affecting other components. you will have to get underneath the fuses to see if any wires are loose or burnt out and making contact. Make sure you disconnect the positive battery cable before poking around in there and put some electrical tape on the positive terminal just to be on the safe side.
1988shark
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Post by 1988shark »

UPDATE: Sept 9th
Today, I took the interior apart. Well at least half of it. I was planning on buying this algean blue leather to reupholster the seats and now having second thoughts. The original interior was blue and was sprayed over in black. Just too much to cost and time involved since finding blue replacement door cars is not as popular as tan, black or even grey. I took out the black seats thinking they were this cheap vinyl like the front seats and decided to clean them up just for kicks. Turns out they are leather and in very nice condition. Fortunately, these were not sprayed over but a replacement. So Ill guess I make the interior black and get half the battle completed.

Moving on to the doors I realized that I have 3 keys. One for the ignition and trunk, one for the driver's door and the other key for the passenger door. My, my, my. What else can I add to the list to complete my interior? lets see....

complete lock set
complete black interior panels
replace blue carpet for black carpet
replace blue glove box door for black
order grey weave pattern headliner
repair central locking system
black shift boot
Black lower center console
KPH speedo
Radio
replace all interior bulbs
reupholster or replace front drivers and passenger seats
reupholster rear headrests in black when it gets here from Germany (its been awhile now, might be laid up in Customs along with my wheels)
Go thru my inventory of interior switches and pick out the one the illuminate.

What a list!
On a side note. I have my rotors and pads for my BBK just need to source the proper master cylinder. I found the brackets I needed for my front calipers but got to the junkers too late to remove them. I sourced my missing front billies from a member on this board. Thanks guy just what I needed, so my suspension is now complete. Oh I forgot I have to get back to a member about some swaybars. Now, Its complete!

My painter came by the garage to check out the car says it should be pretty simple and not too much in the way of body work. there a slight dent on the pass side quarter under the rear glass. a small dent on the trunk lid (not really noticeable) and a small ding on the diver's side fender along the hood line. NO RUST REPAIR! Im thinking about having the chrome parts either blacked out or done in black chrome along with the wheels, bumpers and mirrors if I dont do them in body color. The rear glass has to come out to replace the headliner. He said he should have the booth ready in about 2 weeks, we'll shall see. I have my new dash ready to install, Just need that KPH speedo to move forward.

Slow and steady wins the race.
1988shark
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Post by 1988shark »

UPDATE SEPT 10th:
Today I picked up my front caliper brackets from the junkers. It took about 10mins to get both of them off. I did help that the wheels were already of the car and nothing in the way of removing them except frozen bolts and rust. I will get to them over the weekend with my drill and wire brush, pick up the caliper paint kit work on all 4 corners. total bill for the brackets $20. I called up Brav and I got a quote for $175 each. Not a bad day's work 10 mins for $330.

I arrived at the conclusion I will have to upgrade to Motronic 1.3 and yank the 1.0 system out. I plan on using the tranny from the '88 (I had a lead on a dogleg but I'm getting no response) US spec in the Euro, problem is that I would need a flywheel with the senors built in if I plan to keep the factory wiring for motronic 1.0. I plan on using the Miller Warchip but support is for 079 ECU. My '88 has a 050 ECU which is a transition to 079. So, I had to source an ECU. Second issue is the Harmonic balancer, it has teeth on it an the one on the 85 does not. I will have to remove this also. Not sure how all this will pan out but if I am going to run the turbo some changes will have to take place.

Cruise control: I though all cars had cruise control. I started yanking out the cruise control computer, and the cruise throttle assembly only to find out my steering column has either been replaced or I have no cruise! there is nowhere on the column to support it. I haven't got behind the dash as yet to confirm if the harness is in place. Anyone else on the board with a "cruise-less" Euro?
kronus

Post by kronus »

I don't think they'd even invented cruise control when mine was made, so, yeah, my euro doesn't have cruise control :)
1988shark
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Post by 1988shark »

kronus wrote:I don't think they'd even invented cruise control when mine was made, so, yeah, my euro doesn't have cruise control :)
You are close to 10 years on me! I dont think they made bubble gum when your car was built. LOL Looking at the throttle body the options are there for the cable. Im pretty sure the template was no made to cut down on weight. Maybe it was an option from the dealer? what do you think? :roll:
Image
This is m-stance's 85 Euro. He has cruise control and I have the mounting bracket in my engine bay.
kronus

Post by kronus »

Dealer or factory option. I know that for the E12-based ones, there was a factory option of *either* A/C or a sunroof, not both or neither. Dealer options tended to be aftermarket things that were not engineered by BMW, but approved and made to fit. They're a lot more common on '02s than sixers.. my 02 has a dealer-option moonroof and until recently had a dealer-option Behr A/C system.

Also, it's normal to have the engine bay bracket for stuff that didn't come on your car. That way it's not a crazy amount of work to install it, since configuration and accessory installation happens much later than engine bay welding and painting on an assembly line. There's typically a lot of unused brackets in BMW engine bays... I wouldn't worry about it.
1988shark
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Post by 1988shark »

kronus wrote:Dealer or factory option. I know that for the E12-based ones, there was a factory option of *either* A/C or a sunroof, not both or neither. Dealer options tended to be aftermarket things that were not engineered by BMW, but approved and made to fit. They're a lot more common on '02s than sixers.. my 02 has a dealer-option moonroof and until recently had a dealer-option Behr A/C system.

Also, it's normal to have the engine bay bracket for stuff that didn't come on your car. That way it's not a crazy amount of work to install it, since configuration and accessory installation happens much later than engine bay welding and painting on an assembly line. There's typically a lot of unused brackets in BMW engine bays... I wouldn't worry about it.
I hardly ever use it in my Audi but nice to know its there when I need it. I have all the parts to retro fit one but if there is no connections under the dash it would be pointless to put it in. In addition to that I would have to change the steering column or the column cover to add the lever. The column in the 88 cannot be used because it has the airbag system and not telescopic.
1988shark
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Post by 1988shark »

UPDATE Sept 15th:
What a day its been!
SUCCESS!!!! MOTORNIC 1.3 BABY! \:D/
Someone said its no problem getting the wiring harness out. Everything pretty much on top. This is an understatement!

I spent less time with more success using cheesy pickup lines at the bar. This was a PITA!!! Sure it would have been easier if I had a way of getting the the nuts under the intake manifold since the harness was threaded between two of the intake valves. After 5 hrs, 95% of the components are out. I think there's only two more things to remove. The CPS wheel and cut the other part of the harness that goes into the vehicle. I really dont have to do this but I want it to look professional when I'm done. This means there's quite a bit of soldering to do and shrink wrapping. About 16 splices in all. Now I gotta go take some pics of the 85 Euro's wiring harness to figure out this puzzle.

<a><img src="http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg11 ... 010005.jpg" border="0" alt="motronic 1.3 harness/ECU"></a>
Here is the Crank position sensor with mounting bracket
<a><img src="http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg11 ... 010003.jpg" border="0" alt="crank position sensor"></a>
Rather than removing the blocking bolts on the housing it was much easier to rip the whole thing out and just worry about the three mounting nuts. I wont have to worry about a faulty thermostat or leaks from loose parts. While this is out I can give it a good polish
<a><img src="http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg11 ... 010007.jpg" border="0" alt="coolant intake housing"></a>
The throttle body my 85 is a bit different. I opted to use the one from the 88 this way I wont have to splice cabling and the harness will plug right in. I can get this cleaned up while its out too.
<a><img src="http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg11 ... 010006.jpg" border="0" alt="throttle body"></a>

I bought these upgraded injectors for the 88, they are going in with the fuel rail. There is some slight differences with the cold start on both cars. The 1.3 system is more lean on hoses and wiring. No wonder the engine bay looks a less cluttered.
<a><img src="http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg11 ... 010004.jpg" border="0" alt="fuel rail/injectors"></a>

I will reuse this ignition wire set from Brav Auto. They have seen less than a month of use before parking the 88. These wires are expensive. The coil will come in handy until I upgrade to MSD.
<a><img src="http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg11 ... 010002.jpg" border="0" alt="ignition wire set"></a>

I made reference of the three wires that are jumped. I will make a single splice for all three jumpers. if you peel the tape back far enough up the harness you will see the factory splice. Best to keep the factory junction and make a single cut.
<a><img src="http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg11 ... 010009.jpg" border="0" alt="harness with jumpers"></a>
<a><img src="http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg11 ... 010008.jpg" border="0" alt="distribution harness"></a>

Not sure how to get this out as yet. I know the large nut is for the crankshaft. Have to find out if it is necessary to remove this in order to get the pulley and CPS wheel

<a><img src="http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg11 ... 0001-1.jpg" border="0" alt="CPS wheel/ harmonic blancer"></a>

For the manual conversion, I had to pull the radiator to replace the auto version in the 85. I never knew there was a difference. I think this was the easiest part to remove. Only 2 bolts and 2 screws for the shroud!
<a><img src="http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg11 ... 010001.jpg" border="0" alt="manual radiator"></a>

I think I will ditch the AFM for Ireland Engineering's. They have a upgrade for the E24 with more air intake, definitely needed with the turbo install. This will also had a few more ponies and give it a more aggressive sound off the throttle.

I need to get some rest, I be getting up about 2 or 3 am for a drive to the Windy City. I'm picking up some interior bits mainly black carpet, interior panels and front seats complete manual center console. Although the seats are beat up, they are correct for the vehicle and will have to be upholstered. Too bad I gotta spend cash on this and can't use the interior from the 88. The drive will be about 7 hrs to get there. Ill try and make it back before sunset.

On another note...my front billies came in :P
I got 1 box from Germany, 2 of 4 Remotec wheels. Still waiting for my set to be completed. Maybe it will be here on Monday. Ahhh, US Customs, hope it does not get lost. [-o<
My rear headrest are pending as well. I'd like to have it soon to take to the shop with the front seats.
I was looking around for some 16x9s and came across a guy selling remotec center caps for $179.00. I thought that was a bit expensive for the set. After reading a bit further that is the price per unit. I think I wlll replace all my fasteners. Now that is an expensive center cap!
kronus

Post by kronus »

Oh, yeah, some of the manifold bolts are a pain in the ass to get out, I wound up using a regular combo wrench to get it loose and then twisted off by hand, being able to get at most 1 finger in there.

Why did you pull the harness out of the manifold? I thought you were switching to the 3.5 manifold as well?
1988shark
Posts: 330
Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2012 2:08 pm
Location: columbus, OH
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Post by 1988shark »

kronus wrote:Oh, yeah, some of the manifold bolts are a pain in the ass to get out, I wound up using a regular combo wrench to get it loose and then twisted off by hand, being able to get at most 1 finger in there.

Why did you pull the harness out of the manifold? I thought you were switching to the 3.5 manifold as well?
Winfred said it should bolt right up but the ports are not the same and would not advise it. There would be no benefit in doing the swap. So, Ill follow his advise since he tears this stuff apart in his sleep.
1988shark
Posts: 330
Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2012 2:08 pm
Location: columbus, OH
Contact:

Post by 1988shark »

UPDATE SEPT 16th.
After setting the alarm on my cell for 3am, I crashed not realizing that I did not turn the alarm on to make it active I got up at 5am. Much needed rest but make my trip a little late getting back. I stay off the highway and took the back roads in Amish country. The old state roads reminds me of the the prohibition days (no I wasn't even born yet) driving on those twisty, tree lined 2 laned highways. I never saw a cop in the 6 hrs it too to get to Chicago

I am very please with this "craigslist purchase" if you are following this thread you know what I'm talking about. I got a near mint condition interior in black (rear shelf with perfect speaker pods and blind, door panels and rear panels have no cracks, perfect glove box, knee bolster and center console and matching carpet!) The front seats are shitty but I purchased them anyway because they are the right year and matching the rears that I have. They will need some work on the mechanicals and re covered along with the rear headrests. I also need to get the carpet steamed cleaned, it smells like dogs.

I am closing the gap on the interior slowly but surely. The only thing left to complete the interior is to get a grey headliner. I don't fancy the look of the vinyl. I like the fabric headliner in my Audi, but may go for a darker shade of grey. Beside that, I will worry about a sound system and such much later. I have a couple of autometer guages I want to install on the dash. I am trying to get hold of the Alpina gauge pod for a more natural look . I will post some pics after I get all this stuff cleaned up and moisturized.
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