New Member 1984 euro Restoration
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
I would love to recover some sport seats for that cheap!
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
New Stereo
Well, I wasn't planning on replacing the stereo at this time, but Fry's Electronics had this SONY on sale that had all the features I was looking for and I couldn't resist. I was able to choose a custom color that matches the rest of the interior lights very well.
It sounds really good too.
I've also purchased some new hood struts, so no metal rod needed to hold up the hood!
It's getting too hot to do much work on the 6er now, so I'll be saving up for the next round of restoration.
It sounds really good too.
I've also purchased some new hood struts, so no metal rod needed to hold up the hood!
It's getting too hot to do much work on the 6er now, so I'll be saving up for the next round of restoration.
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- Hood Struts
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- SONY installed.
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- SONY CDX-GT565UP
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Two wheeled BMW to join the 635.
I've just added a beemer to the BMW family. This will probably set back the 635 restoration some what.
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- 1995 K1100LT
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- 1995 K1100LT
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More work on project
Finally got around to some more work on the 6. Replaced the three rubber exhaust hangers, the upper radiator hose and expansion tank for the radiator. The expansion tank was very brittle and I cracked the little hose fitting leading to the radiator when I leaned on it to get at something else. Every thing went easy and smoothly. Then new tank looks much better too.
More to come soon.
More to come soon.
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- New tank.
- IMG_1311 (640x480).jpg (267.54 KiB) Viewed 11067 times
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- Old cracked tank.
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Diff mount
Had a little vibration under acceleration so checked the drive line. The only thing that didn't look good was the differential mount, so I decided to replace it. Was a pretty easy job except when I went to put in the big screw that holds the diff. to the mount I found the screw was too short to get it started. I took off the thick washer and was able to get it threaded but it only tightened 2 turns, not enough to hold plus no washer. Went to the hardware store and got a bolt 1/2" longer and installed it with that. The new mount looks different than the old one. Hope it will be alright. Car drives without any vibration
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- old and new mounts
- IMG_1312 (640x480).jpg (290.79 KiB) Viewed 10998 times
Lemforder instructions
Noticed this symbol on the bottom of the box the Lemforder differential mount came in. Hope I was qualified to install it!
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- IMG_1316 (640x480).jpg (279.32 KiB) Viewed 11451 times
- hornhospital
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2931
- Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:46 pm
- Location: Silverhill, AL
- Contact:
M parallel wheels
My son wants to get rid of his 1995 525i. He has 18" M parallel staggered wheels on it which I could swap with mine before he sells. He has 6 wheels in all, four alike and 2 staggered rears. I put the wide rears on the euro and took it for a spin. They looked really cool but they did rub on the inside against the shock. He didn't like running the wider rears because they wear out really fast. Should I a. Go with all four of the same size M Parallel wheels, b. staggered rears (with spacers so they don't rub), c. the Mille Miglia wheels I currently have on it with brand new tires. Look at the pictures and give me your opinions.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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- 18" M parallel rear
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- 16" Mille Miglia front and 18" M parallel rear
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I'm not a fan of your current wheels, unfortunately.
Personally, I don't see the point in staggered/larger wheels for these cars. They aren't super powerful, and I don't hardly notice the 'look' of wider wheels. For me, wide wheels should be for need, not for show.
With that said, I like square setups because you can rotate the tires, and the handling is more neutral (staggered tends to add additional understeer to a car, which these cars already do...).
For me, light wheels (17" or smaller) with tires no wider than ~225/235 is the way to go. I am somewhat touchy with brake upgades as all the additional wight hurts acceleration and handling performance.
Maybe I am sensitive because I live at 5000ft and have 15% power than most of you
Personally, I don't see the point in staggered/larger wheels for these cars. They aren't super powerful, and I don't hardly notice the 'look' of wider wheels. For me, wide wheels should be for need, not for show.
With that said, I like square setups because you can rotate the tires, and the handling is more neutral (staggered tends to add additional understeer to a car, which these cars already do...).
For me, light wheels (17" or smaller) with tires no wider than ~225/235 is the way to go. I am somewhat touchy with brake upgades as all the additional wight hurts acceleration and handling performance.
Maybe I am sensitive because I live at 5000ft and have 15% power than most of you
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
OK, Here's a quick update.
I went with the M parallel 18" wheels, non staggered. They seem to run smooth and straight with just a little trammeling over grooves in the road. I really like the looks on the 635. The tires on them now are 225's. I'll probably go with a 235 next time to get a little taller sidewall. Here are some cell phone pics for now.
I went with the M parallel 18" wheels, non staggered. They seem to run smooth and straight with just a little trammeling over grooves in the road. I really like the looks on the 635. The tires on them now are 225's. I'll probably go with a 235 next time to get a little taller sidewall. Here are some cell phone pics for now.
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- M Parallels
- IMG00508-20141112-1714 (1024x768).jpg (460.68 KiB) Viewed 11097 times
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- M Parallels
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- M Parallels
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UGH!
My son rear ended a small suv while taking my wife to work in the 6er while her 740il was in the shop. we'd like to rebuild her if we can get parts (euro bumpers will be hard to find I think) Any advice, info, leads on parts and condolences accepted!.
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- IMG_1377 (640x480).jpg (275.61 KiB) Viewed 11004 times
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- IMG_1379 (640x480).jpg (245.13 KiB) Viewed 11004 times
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- Posts: 791
- Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2008 5:26 am
- Location: Sydney Australia
wow. Driver fault. Still, was a wonderful car and worth saving. Strip from the firewall forward and replace the entire nose. Looks like you will be searching for a really good donor wreck.
Hopefully it was insured. Again, a big package of condolences but hopefully the rebuild will bring her back better than ever and..... your son has learnt an important driving lesson without anyone getting hurt.
Hopefully it was insured. Again, a big package of condolences but hopefully the rebuild will bring her back better than ever and..... your son has learnt an important driving lesson without anyone getting hurt.
Restoration
Hi all, it's been a while since I last updated about the crash restoration. We were in the process of pulling out the front nose clip with a chain attached to the Land Cruiser when a neighbor from down the street saw us and asked what we were doing. Turns out he owns a body shop very close by and offered to fix the body work for $500. We needed to remove all bent body parts and find new ones to be attached. Tried to start it after we pulled the radiator out of the cooling fan and it just cranked but no start. After much diagnosis and head scratching we decided to check the crank position sensor and found the connector was not connected. Fired right up!
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- Fenders and hood removed.
- 20150225_120201 (640x399).jpg (260.63 KiB) Viewed 10387 times
Restoration
Next, my son found a complete 1983 euro for sale and purchased it. The PO had stripped all the paint and let it sit for??? It was so rusted I didn't think it could be salvaged but our body guy said it was usable. The donor car had Recaro seats with electric/air pump controls that weren't hooked up to any thing and I didn't want to use them so my son is going to try and sell them, in very bad shape. (see pictures) Donor car didn't have an oil cooler either so I took the oil filter housing from it and installed on my car so can run it without the cooler for now. Seems odd a euro didn't have one. We then sent both cars to the body shop for the transformation.
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- rusty 635
- 1983 635 - Copy (2).jpg (173.65 KiB) Viewed 10383 times
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- rusty 635
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- off to the body shop
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- Recaro seat
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Restoration
Got the cars back from the shop and was very pleased with the results. Next, we're going to get the car drivable, remove the rest of the trim and rear bumper,rear spoiler, remove the windshield and take it back to the shop for paint.
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- donor car after removal of body parts
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- DSC09689 (640x427).jpg (317.93 KiB) Viewed 10363 times
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- DSC09688 (640x427).jpg (274.1 KiB) Viewed 10363 times
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- New fenders and hood installed and primered
- DSC09690 (640x427).jpg (258.99 KiB) Viewed 10363 times
Now that's progress!!
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Car ready for paint.
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- taillights rear wing and bumper removed
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- windshield removed
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- sunroof gasket removed
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- door and rocker mouldings removed
- IMG_1498 (480x640).jpg (241.08 KiB) Viewed 10265 times