633CSi Turbo - Not a Callaway or an E24 Anymore

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tschultz
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Post by tschultz »

A couple of videos from the day!

You can really tell how laggy the turbo is since you can hear the spool. That's the next item on the list-- now just gotta find the time to swap it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lB7Ws88Uz0

The steep hill I could get on the gas early and really power up as compared to all of the other NA cars and fellow BMW's.
The VW was a 2.0 running 15psi. He accelerated so much better than me-- I was really wishing I had the TCD turbo on at that point. But I'd reel him in by getting on the gas earlier on a few corners.
The funny part was his turbo was slightly bigger than mine :rofl:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BV6z1PUlCEU
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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castironphil
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Post by castironphil »

This is one of my favorite threads.
Great update! =D>
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tschultz
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Post by tschultz »

castironphil wrote:This is one of my favorite threads.
Great update! =D>
Thanks, glad you are enjoying it! Makes it easier to add to the story when you know people are reading :)


Here's a few more pictures from the day. It is by no means a show car :lol:


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http://www.Drive4Corners.com
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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M6smitten
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Post by M6smitten »

This is a fav of mine too.
I'd love to hear more about your air/fuel monitor and programming.
2011 1 Series M
1974 2002 Turbo
1987 M6 (2/87) - Sold
1984 M635CSi (10/84) - Sold
2012 335 xi
2009 328 xi

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tschultz
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Post by tschultz »

M6smitten wrote:This is a fav of mine too.
I'd love to hear more about your air/fuel monitor and programming.
Sure Aaron,

A modern car uses an O2 sensor to tell the computer if the mixture is rich, lean, or just right. This signal is sent in increments of 0-1V to the control, and is also referred to as 'narrow-band'.

14.7:1 air:fuel is ideal stoichiometric combustion, and a great target for idling. For different conditions you want other mixtures, however.
12.5:1 is a typical target for NA cars when accelerating, and this gives a margin of safety to prevent detonation under load in case the fuel is poor quality.
11.5-12.5:1 is usually the target for turbo/supercharged cars under load since there is more dense air entering the engine
15:1 is acceptable for cruising and fuel mileage

Some of these values are more critical than others depending on compression ratio, load, fuel octane, etc

I am using a 'wide-band' 02 sensor and display (AEM UEGO 30-4110) which not only sends a signal from 0-1V, but has the option to send 0-5V and utilize a gauge to display the current mixture. You may have seen the digital gauge earlier in the thread.

The wideband uses an O2 sensor in the exhaust piping, and you can see my downpipe has a secondary bung for this. I thought the wideband would be able to be compatible with the 0-1V signal of the Motronic 1.0a on my M30B34, but for some reason the signals don't line up perfectly. Right now I am actually running no O2 sensor feedback via my narrowband sensor, and only sending a display signal via the wideband. Other standalone controls allow you to use the wideband as display, but also as a feedback device to go into closed loop mixture control and change injector open/close times.

You can also datalog the mixtures and plot them for comparison purposes to tweak the fuel vs rpm mapping. If you ran MegaSquirt, fuel vs manifold pressure map may also be adjusted I believe.


The way I am running fuel right now is sort of a hack. Unfortunately the wideband 0-1V signal wasn't exactly the same as my narrowband, so I couldn't use it like I wanted to and replace the stock O2 sensor. I am using 24lb injectors and have disconnected the O2 sensor. The injectors open to a pre-determined map on the ECU, and it happens I have gotten them sized 'in the ball park' with a 3 bar fuel pressure regulator (it used to be 2.5bar).

I added a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator, which uses a manifold pressure signal to close off the fuel return line. I can adjust the pressure via a screw, and the gain with a needle valve. The idea is that for more intake pressure (boost), you need more fuel. Instead of changing the fuel map, the fuel pressure is bumped up and more fuel is injected per injector open time period.

The fuel pump has been upgraded (as the old one would max out at 60psi) to work with this regulator also.

In a normal setup, the Wide Open Throttle switch engages at 2/3 pedal and goes into a predetermined map aiming for 12.5:1 Air:Fuel ratio (AFR). When I did WOT, the injectors opened for a longer duration, and when combined with the added fuel pressure and injectors, gave me a fuel ratio that was too rich. For now, I have disconnected this wire from the TPS.


Obviously, this is a bit of a work around to make it work, but you can't argue it because it did work at the track, a very harsh environment. The low 8:1 compression, 91 octane, and 65 degree ambient temperatures allowed me to get away with it, even though it was hitting 13:1 AFR at a few points under boost...

After I change turbo's I will revisit this to determine if my current setup is acceptable or not for the increased airflow and corresponding increased fuel requirements.

I didn't mean to ramble but hopefully that gives you a better idea :mrgreen:
Last edited by tschultz on Thu Oct 29, 2015 1:17 pm, edited 2 times in total.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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Spasso
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Post by Spasso »

Thanks for the 'rambling".
I'll be going down the same path as you as far as setting up for better fueling.
Mine starves if I stay on it too long and I'm sure could hole a piston if I pushed it.

Intercooler and suspension work first though.
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tschultz
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Post by tschultz »

Spasso wrote:Thanks for the 'rambling".
I'll be going down the same path as you as far as setting up for better fueling.
Mine starves if I stay on it too long and I'm sure could hole a piston if I pushed it.

Intercooler and suspension work first though.
I notice I didn't copy it here, but a I replaced it with an external Walbro GSL392 255liter per hour pump. I didn't want to modify the lift pump just because I like the ability to revert back to stock/ refer to OEM diagrams for parts.

When are you going to make more progress on your turbo car!?
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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sansouci
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Post by sansouci »

So how do you solve the turbo lag problem?
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
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Finally6
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Post by Finally6 »

Following...
Northern VA, I-95 drone...
RHD 81 635
02 530i
00 528iT
91 535i
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Spasso
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Post by Spasso »

tschultz wrote:

When are you going to make more progress on your turbo car!?
I keep asking myself that same question.
I've been working on the house all year (and spending money)....
- New oil tank replacement for my back-up furnace.
- New drain field in the back yard.
That ate up 9k this summer.

I promised myself that I would finish the wiring in my shop, insulate and rock-it before I worked on anymore major projects.

I'm tired of freezing my ass off out there during the winter.

Once that is done I can install the sound system, flat-screen and coffee pot.....and GET to WORK!
***************************
Thanks for posting the fuel pump info.
I saw a build that continued to use the stock lift pump but ran it to a secondary accumulator tank in the trunk that was driven by a high volume pump to the engine.

It didn't provide unlimited fuel but enough at WOT for a good mile or so.
I think the return line was teed to the accumulator as well.
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Post by tschultz »

Some proper photos since I had some spare time today.

It looks quite a bit different since I purchased the car. Not great lighting, but I didn't have many high quality photos of the car so I figured I'd shoot them anyway.

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http://www.Drive4Corners.com
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
GazM3
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Post by GazM3 »

Nice pics there.
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Post by Spasso »

I really need to get some Euro bumpers and trim for mine. I can't stand the US stuff on these beautiful cars.
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz »

I sure do enjoy the euro bumpers!

I have driven the car sparingly, but it has been there patiently waiting. Little fixes like getting my heater valve cleaned and working was nice. The flapper doors aren't quite right, but the heat will come through the top vents and defrost the window at least!

I will be measuring the piping I have and ordering a few silicone couplings in the next week or so. I plan to take off the manifold and turbo this month ( I am dreading this!) to swap on the TCD turbo. I also have an intercooler my brother gave me that I will try to swap into place. I may be rerouting charge piping we will see, it depends on what seems to fit. I'd rather not hack it up.

In the mean time, a spare set of winter wheels and tires off of craigslist. I think they suit the car fairly well... At least they fit over the big brakes!

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http://www.Drive4Corners.com
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
downforce22
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by downforce22 »

tschultz wrote: Image
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It has come a little ways in a couple of years
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz »

Thanks Ted! I think so too-- it makes me seriously think about having the car repainted and cleaned up sooner than later! Right now that's not in the plans, but I have thought about it!

I made a bunch of headway now that things have slowed down a little bit since getting married and finishing another stage of home updates earlier in the month.

I recruited my brother to help me with my turbo swap since he was itching to get out of the house, so this past Saturday we went on a drive with some other BMW's. I took the euro 635 and had a blast. He was in the 318is with german stripes:

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Anyway, we came back to my house after so that on Sunday we could start on my project. I have had this TCD turbo from Todd since summer of 2105 when he got me a great price on one. Considering he indicated that it would fit on the manifold and have clearance to the block, I decided to spring for it, although at the time I was still just getting the car running with the Rotomaster. It's been sitting patiently waiting ever since as I have slowly worked out the kinks in the car. The 633 has been reliable for me and is to the point that I have the basic turbo system operating reliably. This was confirmed when taking it out to a local lapping day. The only issue was a coupling popping off the Callaway manifold. I attribute that to the crapy hose clamps, but knew eventually I would upgrade.

Onto the main content: I had prepared for the swap by pulling off the front spoiler- here's how the car sat when getting started:

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Then we took off the AFM and piping for access. The oil return line came off, the wastegate came off, and we could start removing the 12mm exhaust nuts.

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I had not been looking forward to this, but the nuts were all reasonably accessible, with the slowest one being #6 on the lower side. The advantage of doing this from when I did it last year was that it had been off about 3000 miles prior, and the engine was now secured to the chassis. The last time I did this, we had it on a dolly and could not get underneath to access the lower nuts, for safety reasons and clearance issues to the ground. Of course when on a dolly, it would also want to rock, so we couldn't really loosen the nuts the best.

Regardless, we finally got it off, and the manifold and turbo came out as one unit. This was a tight fit, and we scraped the front inner fender arch a little bit because of the tight fit. Removing one of the exhaust studs was also necessary. so here's how it all looked after the aforementioned ~3000 miles. The exhuast gasket and mating ring was taken off on the bench, this photo was just after we removed it.

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We separated the parts, and then got out the new turbo. in comparison, the compressor housing is bigger than the rotomaster. According to Todd, this is T04e, 60mm compressor wheel. Standard journal bearing turbo with P trim turbine and .58 A/R on center housing. This is from the TCD M30 kits.

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Getting it ready.

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Due to the size of the compressor housing, we quickly realized we would not be able to mount the manifold+turbo in one swift motion the way that we had removed it. This meant the two could not be mated on the bench prior to installation. We thought for a minute and then decided to place the turbo on the side of the exhaust and then maneuver the manifold into place above it. My brother was nice enough to support the turbo as I got the manifold in and tried to start the mating S.S. bolts. This meant I also added the silicone while he held the turbo. Fortunately we got it together and then could focus on tightening the two together. This gave us the clearance we needed. One small addendum, the clearance from the Rotomaster to the Comp turbo was not the same for the most inward/forward mounting hole to the manifold. This was the same hole missing a bolt when Mike and I took off the manifold last year. Both the manifold and turbo were designed to have a screw enter form the opposite side. We got create and used a threaded exhaust stud through. This part barely fit, and then we were able to thread new 12mm exhaust nuts on both sides and tighten.

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My brother also happened to bring his no-name spare waste-gate. We had realized that without a gasket I was getting major exhaust bypass through the waste-gate in normal operating conditions. This would explain why spool up was rather slow for such a small unit.

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Installed

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To clarify, I think there are some major reasons why this setup should improve dramatically from before:

1. Waste-gate bypass should be eliminated. This will likely be a major difference in the two waste-gates. My brother thinks that this no-name has a 10psi spring in it. We will find out, but the turbo won't have to be fighting a manifold exhaust leak to get up to boost pressures.

2. Turbo airflow capacity. The new unit should be very well matched to the airflow generated by the M30B34. This places the engine in the efficiency zone of the turbo at or very near to the optimum 78% island at my current boost pressure. This efficiency means less heat generated, and hopefully more dense charge air being delivered.
In my prior posts, I document that the rotomaster is drastically undersized for this application in terms of the turbine size. I believe that it was causing a high exhaust back pressure on the engine. Of course the ability to move air really depends on a pressure differential, so this is a critical piece to the puzzle. The high back pressure meant that the old unit had to work even harder and overcome this back pressure before being able to flow additional air through the engine. This would explain why the car felt sooo slow (slower than NA) when I would lose a hose coupling just enough not to build boost pressure. This happened at the track, and the engine had to work to overcome the back pressure, but with no gain of additional air for the lost 'work' put into spinning the turbo.

3. New turbo technology. It is very evident that the new Comp unit has improved technology over the Rotomaster. This is very obvious when looking at the compressor inlet on both. The Rotomaster has an exposed threaded shaft and nut. The new Comp unit has an aggressive looking cover on this shaft, much to the similarity of a jet engine. I imagine this is to delay the separation point of the boundary layer to turbulent flow, and better control the airflow in. This new technology is probably leaps and bounds different from that of 30 years prior.

4. General condition of new vs old. It was evident that the rotomaster had a lot of friction or something causing the shaft to be somewhat difficult to spin by hand. I attribute this to oil coking or something similar. It simply won't spin freely like other turbos and the new Comp unit. I don't attribute this to the technology, but rather the general condition of the Rotomaster. I mean it, worked, as you can see from the videos, but there are likely major gains to be had from this difference of condition. The nice thing is that the Rotomaster did not have shaft play or oil leakage, and I didn't have to pay for a new turbo when I was so new to the game.

5. The last difference should be intercooling. I am upgrading the charge piping to remove boost leaks and add an intercooler with additional frontal area. I did notice a lot of heat in the engine bay on hot days, and the car was noticeably slower. My brother fortunately had an spare intercooler and I started getting it fit in place. I also plan to make a couple of heat shields to help protect the charge piping and air filter from the high temperatures. Fresh air can only help to increase power and reduce the risk of detonation.

I also took the opportunity to adjust the oil return as the old method had a kink. It didn't drain as I had hoped because the fitting I wanted to use would not fit with the steering arm underneath. this had resulted in a snaking line to the oil pan that actually went around the motor mount. This was certainly something on my list to change. I used the adapter block from the Rotomaster and then added a 3/8 NPT x 3/8 NPT m/f adapter fitting to space everything downward. This allowed me to reinstall the same 3/8" npt elbow from before where I could install the hose. I may have to shorten the hose but I didn't want to cut it too short...

Here's the clearance with the clocking of the compressor outlet. It is very tight, but after clocking it a couple times, it should work. The oil inlet is on the other side (180 degrees apart) and barely clears the manifold, but I didn't want an elbow that would disrupt smooth flow.

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We had a spectator too

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Here's the charge piping and intercooler. Still working on this, but I am close to what I want. I basically added an elbow and changed some of the positions/angles of the Callaway piping.

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Next steps, I am working on cleaning up the intercooler piping, along with the idle air connection and some other misc items. Another update probably last this week, or this weekend.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
downforce22
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by downforce22 »

tschultz wrote: We separated the parts, and then got out the new turbo. in comparison, the compressor housing is bigger than the rotomaster. According to Todd, this is T04e, 60mm compressor wheel. Standard journal bearing turbo with P trim turbine and .58 A/R on center housing. This is from the TCD M30 kits.

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My brother also happened to bring his no-name spare waste-gate. We had realized that without a gasket I was getting major exhaust bypass through the waste-gate in normal operating conditions. This would explain why spool up was rather slow for such a small unit.

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I think that metal sealing ring/washer should make all the difference for you. They call it a valve seat: http://www.forcedperformance.net/PROD/TIWVS.html

and as for the turbo, the compressor side is about what I have on my stroker motor, just a bit smaller, but the exhaust side is smaller than mine. I've got the Precision 5862 which i found this handy little chart on compressor sizes on another forum, sorted by max flow rate.
CmpInd Compressor Inducer [mm]
CmpExd Compressor Exducer [mm]
TrbInd Turbine Inducer [mm]
TrbExd Turbine Exducer [mm]
Flow Max Air Flow Rate [lb/min]
Brand Turbo CmpInd CmpExd TrbInd TrbExd Flow CHRA Bearings Mounting
Blouch 16G XT 48.30 64.30 55.50 49.00 41.0 Journal Bearing Stock
Blouch 18G XT 49.80 68.00 55.50 49.00 43.0 Journal Bearing Stock
Blouch 20G XT 52.00 68.00 63.00 54.00 47.0 Journal Bearing Stock
Blouch 16G XT-R 48.30 64.30 54.00 49.40 38.0 Ball Bearing Stock
Blouch 18G XT-R 49.80 68.00 56.50 51.70 43.0 Ball Bearing Stock
Blouch 20G XT-R 52.00 68.00 56.50 51.70 47.0 Ball Bearing Stock
Blouch Dom 1.5 XT-R 53.00 71.00 56.50 51.70 49.0 Ball Bearing Stock
Blouch Dom 2.5 XT-R 53.00 71.00 60.00 54.90 49.0 Ball Bearing Stock
Blouch Dom 3.0 XT-R 57.00 76.00 60.00 54.90 55.0 Ball Bearing Stock
Blouch Dom 3.5 XT-R 57.00 76.00 64.00 58.60 58.0 Ball Bearing Stock
Blouch Dom 4.0 XT-R 60.00 82.00 64.00 58.60 60.0 Ball Bearing Stock
Blouch Dom 5.0 XT-R 62.00 84.00 68.00 62.20 65.0 Ball Bearing Stock
BorgWarner BW 7670 56.00 76.00 70.00 61.00 58.0 Journal Bearing Rotated
BorgWarner BW 8375 60.00 83.00 75.90 68.00 68.0 Journal Bearing Rotated
BorgWarner BW 8875 63.00 88.00 75.90 68.00 75.0 Journal Bearing Rotated
BorgWarner BW 9180 66.00 91.00 80.00 73.00 82.0 Journal Bearing Rotated
BorgWarner EFR 6258 49.60 62.00 58.00 51.00 44.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
BorgWarner EFR 6758 53.90 67.00 58.00 51.00 49.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
BorgWarner EFR 7064 52.20 70.00 64.00 56.00 56.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
BorgWarner EFR 7163 57.00 71.00 63.00 N/A 60.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
BorgWarner EFR 7670 57.20 76.00 70.00 62.00 64.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
BorgWarner EFR 8374 62.60 83.00 74.00 64.00 79.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
BorgWarner EFR 9180 67.70 91.00 80.00 74.00 94.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
Forced Perf FP 68HTA 68.00 65.00 47.0 Journal Bearing Stock
Forced Perf FP 71HTA 51.20 71.00 65.00 55.00 51.0 Journal Bearing Stock
Forced Perf FP Green HTA 54.80 76.00 67.00 59.00 59.0 Journal Bearing Stock
Forced Perf FP Red 61.21 81.79 67.00 59.00 65.0 Journal Bearing Stock
Forced Perf FP Red 76HTA 58.00 76.00 60.00 54.90 60.0 Ball Bearing Stock
Forced Perf FP Black HTA 59.10 82.00 67.30 58.80 68.0 Journal Bearing Stock
Forced Perf FP Black 82HTA 62.00 82.00 68.00 62.23 68.0 Ball Bearing Stock
Forced Perf FP HTA 3076R 54.80 76.00 60.00 54.90 59.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
Forced Perf FP HTA 3582R 62.00 82.00 68.00 62.20 68.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
Forced Perf FP HTA 3586R 62.10 86.20 68.00 62.20 75.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
Forced Perf FP HTA 3786R 62.10 86.20 72.50 66.50 78.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
Forced Perf FP HTA 3794R 67.50 94.00 72.50 66.50 93.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
Forced Perf FP HTA 4294R 67.70 94.00 82.00 77.00 96.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
Forced Perf 6466TZ 64.00 88.00 72.60 66.30 92.5 Ball Bearing Rotated
Forced Perf HTZ Super 94 67.70 94.00 76.00 67.00 95.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
Forced Perf HTZ Super 99 72.00 99.00 76.00 67.00 103.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
Garrett GT 2871R 51.20 71.00 54.00 49.40 46.0 Ball Bearing Both
Garrett GT 3071R 53.10 71.00 60.00 54.90 46.0 Ball Bearing Both
Garrett GT 3076R 57.00 76.20 60.00 54.90 52.5 Ball Bearing Both
Garrett GT 3582R 61.40 82.00 68.00 62.20 60.0 Ball Bearing Both
Garrett GT 4088R 63.50 88.00 77.00 70.40 67.5 Ball Bearing Both
Garrett GT 4294R 70.30 94.00 82.00 77.00 85.0 Ball Bearing Both
Garrett GTX 3071R 54.10 71.40 60.00 54.90 56.0 Ball Bearing Both
Garrett GTX 3076R 58.00 76.60 60.00 54.90 64.0 Ball Bearing Both
Garrett GTX 3576R 58.00 76.60 68.00 62.20 65.0 Ball Bearing Both
Garrett GTX 3582R 62.50 82.50 68.00 62.20 75.0 Ball Bearing Both
Garrett GTX 4294R 70.30 94.00 82.00 77.00 95.0 Ball Bearing Both
IHI VF39/48/52 46.50 60.00 52.80 47.88 34.0 Journal Bearing Stock
MHI TD04L 13T-6 40.70 56.00 47.00 41.30 26.7 Journal Bearing Stock
MHI TD05H 16G 48.30 68.00 56.00 49.10 37.9 Journal Bearing Stock
MHI TD05H 18G 50.50 68.00 56.00 49.10 43.7 Journal Bearing Stock
MHI TD05H 20G 52.50 68.00 56.00 49.10 47.4 Journal Bearing Stock
MHI TD06SL2 20G 52.50 68.00 61.00 54.00 47.4 Journal Bearing Stock
MHI TD06H 20G 52.50 68.00 67.00 58.80 47.4 Journal Bearing Stock
MHI TD06H 60-1 59.50 76.00 67.00 58.80 61.0 Journal Bearing Stock
Precision Subaru 5530 54.90 76.20 56.50 51.78 52.5 Ball Bearing Stock
Precision PTE 5558 54.90 76.20 64.90 57.91 59.0 Either Rotated
Precision PTE 5858 58.00 76.20 64.90 57.91 62.0 Either Rotated
Precision PTE 5862 58.00 76.20 71.00 61.90 64.0 Either Rotated
Precision PTE 6262 62.23 81.99 71.00 61.90 70.5 Either Rotated
Precision PTE 6266 62.00 81.99 74.17 66.00 73.5 Either Rotated
Precision PTE 6266 G2 62.00 81.99 74.17 66.00 80.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
Precision PTE 6466 G2 64.39 86.61 74.17 66.00 90.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
Precision PTE 6766 67.44 88.32 74.17 66.00 93.5 Either Rotated
Precision PTE 6870 G2 68.02 92.46 78.74 70.21 110.0 Ball Bearing Rotated
Precision PTE 7175 70.99 93.98 82.00 75.08 98.5 Either Rotated
Precision PTE 7275 72.40 91.00 82.00 75.08 101.5 Either Rotated
Steam STX 67 49.70 67.40 55.80 49.10 48.0 Journal Bearing Stock
Steam STX 71 54.10 71.40 61.00 54.10 59.0 Journal Bearing Stock
Steam STX 20G-R 52.50 68.00 60.00 54.90 47.4 Ball Bearing Stock
Brand Turbo CmpInd CmpExd TrbInd TrbExd Flow CHRA Bearings Mounting
Precision PTE 5862 58.00 76.20 71.00 61.90 64.0 lb/min
Image

From the comp site, it looks like this is what you probably have
CT3S SERIES 3" INLET 2" OUTLET 360 OIL ONLY JOURNAL BEARING (LESS TURBINE HOUSING)
Product Number Turbo Description Compressor Wheel/Inducer Turbine Wheel/Exducer HP Rating
325558 CT3S Billet 360 55 58 570
325858 CT3S Billet 360 58 58 600
326062 CT3S Billet 360 60 62 660
326262 CT3S Billet 360 62 62 710
326265 CT3S Billet 360 62 65 710
326465 CT3S Billet 360 64 65 800

So it looks like aside form the covering (mine has the 4 inch anti surge cover) the compressors are pretty close.
326767 CT3S Billet 360 67 67 930
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tschultz
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz »

Thanks for that, interesting how similar sized they are!

I put the last few pieces back together to get the car started today. Removed the wiring for the OBC horn, added some heat shielding and just got it in place so I can finally take the car to an exhaust shop in the next week or 2.

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Another view of the intercooler piping. Right now the front bumper won't clear, so I will have to decide how I want to proceed...

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A shot underneath. still using basically all 2 in diameter piping from the callaway kit and an extra elbow and the new intercooler. Fortunately the charge piping immediately post turbo provides another location to receive fresh, cool air for cooling before reaching the IC.

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My piping is slightly larger than 2in diameter so it is difficult to get my 2in diameter tbolt clamps on place. I may still use them, but I need to decide how I am going to fit the front spoiler and bumper over all of the piping.

I started the car and got it idling for a good 10 minutes to check for leaks and such. Still idling at about 1000rpm, but everything else appeared in good shape. after getting the exhaust on, I took the car around the block. Initial impressions, it feels very similar to before, but likely smoother power delivery. AFR's were slightly rich as I tried the FQS switch at both 0 position and the 2 position (where I had it). The car was much closer to 12.5 target AFR's with the FQS switch still at position 2 (where it was before). I was confidant enough that I opened her up. The new wastegate has a 7psi spring and overall power delivery is nice and steady. the car felt very similar in acceleration to the Rotomaster turbo at 11psi, but of course I was going easy and not getting up to speed or pushing the car.
The intercooler is definitely working as I could feel a nice temperature gradient from one side to the other, something I couldn't say for the Callaway unit, which was just totally warm throughout. The heat shielding was also helping I think as the charge piping to he intake didn't seem as hot-- Recall it sits right above the exhaust manifold.

The good news is air dam fits in front of the intercooler! I had to shift everything over slightly for it to all fit, but it fits! Maybe some photos of it later in the week when I have some more time. I'll be curious to note how much the intercooler stands out from behind the airdam. I didn't really like how the Callaway unit looked behind the airdam (it didn't really fitt it out enough).

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Going to try to bring the car to an exhaust shop soon so I can bring everything tighter to the body and finally put on the new bilstein sports, eibach spring, and front strut bar.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
///Moe
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by ///Moe »

I miss driving a turbo BMW when I see your posts..
Reminding me that I have to finish my own car soon.

"Unfortunately" I have began the process of turbo converting my daily driver as well.. (Not BMW)
Have lived with it naturally aspirated for more than 6 years now, I couldn't resist a bigger engine in it.
It's not done yet, but I'm really looking forward for some turbo action. It will be a totally different car to drive :D

It's amazing what even the slightest amount of boost do to an engine.
E24 635CSiA 85' (garage queen)
E24 628CSiA 83' (turbo/manual?)
E23 745i 82' (turbo project)
E23 728i 86' (745i project)
E23 728i 79' (part's car) [x]
E28 525i 81' (part's car) [x]
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz »

It sure bring a pep to the engine! It feels a lot more like the E28 M5 I own since it picks up power when the boost arrives.

Another small update from last night. I decided to try to install my rear Mason Engineering strut bar.

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The old Jakeb e28 bar wouldn't fit, so I bought one of these. The good news is that it fits! The proximity is very tight just because of the rear geometry of the E24. I think the parcel shelf sits lower than that on an e28, so there really is almost no space for a rear bar. I was glad to finally get everything in place after dropping rear shocks/springs from each side. See photos below.

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The expansion tank fits above the bar, but I did have to pull it out to get everything into place.

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The front-most nut on the right side I can't tighten much past finger tight. That's ok because I won't be able to get it off later if I can tighten it. I don't really care to remove the parcel shelf at this point...

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All buttoned up, and you can't even tell it is back there! At least this means it doesn't reduce storage space in the trunk!

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I removed the restrictor fitting, so I have the standard #4 JIC x 1/8" NPT DM nipple supplying oil to the turbo. I swapped a new oil pressure sender in the head and found that the oil pressure is a bit better than the other sender indicated. I think oil pressure is acceptable for this engine, albeit maybe on the low side at idle because of the oil pressure being distributed to the turbo. At hot idle, it seems to be in the 8-10 range, the light will flicker when the revs drops slightly. At 2000rpm fully warmed up it has a healthy 30psi, so I am not worried.

I drove the car around tonight after getting everything reinstalled. With the larger injectors and fpr, cruising AFR's are actually richer than where they were with the other turbo. Cruise is close to 12:1, instead of about 15 where it was. The FQS switch is still in position 2 (-3% fuel), but I have larger 24lb injectors, a 3 bar FPR, and the BEGI 2025 with both adjustment knobs all the way relaxed.

In boost, AFR's are about 10.5-12.0:1. Slightly richer than what I want, especially in 1st/2nd gear where they are near 10.5. I am thinking about reverting back to the 2.5bar FPR to see if that helps to bring cruise back to a reasonable level. The other option would be to go back to the stock 17lb fuel injectors and keep the 3 bar FPR and simply increase the rail pressure on the RRFPR. Not sure which of the two I want to try first. I am thinking the 2.5bar FPR won't make a significant difference, but only one way to find out.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
downforce22
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by downforce22 »

the 2.5 bar fpr will drop the pressure a significant amount.

14.7 psi x 2.5 bar = 36.75 psi with 24 lb/hr fuel injectors

14.7 psi x 3 bar = 44.10 psi with 24 lb/hr fuel injectors

That is 83% fuel of the 3 bar regulator, or 17% less flow before the BEGI kicks in.

So it would change those 24 pound injectors into 20 pounders.

A good injector reference page.
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz »

Good info, thanks! That was what I was going to try next I think.

I had a virus last year (cryptolocker) that damaged some of my files, and I lost some of the original images of the car from the ad and previous owner. But I did find one from the owner before him who had listed the car on bimmerforums. Here's his only picture. It looks like it was kept fairly nice at this point... Not sure what year the photo was taken-- he posted it 3/2011.

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I took the car to an exhaust shop for a quote on bringing the exhaust system closer to the body along with getting it properly hung in place.

The bad news is that I now have a large oil leak, and due to safety concerns, they won't work on it until the leak is fixed (and oil is not coating the underside of the car and the exhaust). I investigated after getting home and retightened the oil drain fitting, as I thought that was the culprit.

Unfortunately after simply restarting the car and idling, it leaks out a small puddle of oil from between the bellhousing and engine. This is on the passenger side, basically right behind the turbo (hence my original thought on the oil drain). I am thinking this is a bad rear main seal :bawl:. Here's a good thread on the topic: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3& ... 1&start=25

I don't know that I have the time or tools to pull the trans and swap out the seal myself, so I am trying to contact a local private mechanic to see if he can help. From my research, everybody indicates it's a pain to reach the top trans bolts and get them out without stripping.

I really wanted to get the exhaust repaired and fixed soon so I can finish the front end shock/spring/control arm swap and go to a lapping day in early April. I already registered early this week, not knowing I had this sort of issue :x
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by hornhospital »

Before you start removing the transmission, make sure it's not something simple like the oil pressure sender switch at the upper rear of the head. I literally had my 633 on a lift and wrenches in hand, new rear main seal and a ton of other pieces to change "just because the transmission would be out", when one eagle-eyed observer (the guy that owned the lift) noticed it was leaking AROUND the bellhousing, not directly from inside it. A $20 oil pressure sender later and the leak was gone.
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by tschultz »

Hornhosiptal, you were right! It was the sender. I was freaking out trying to determine how I would get it fixed if it was in fact the rear main seal. But it turns out the sender I checked immediately after starting and it wasn't leaking only because pressure had not yet been built up. When I went to check again, oil pressure had built up and I identified it at the sender. :lol:

I am dropping the car off at the exhaust shop tonight so that they can work on it tomorrow. Then commences the front end refresh :mrgreen: (finally!)

Some photos with the Style 32's. They make the car look a lot more aggressive than any of the other wheels I have had on it so far:

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Last edited by tschultz on Tue Mar 08, 2016 1:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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Re: 633CSi Callaway Turbo Car

Post by hornhospital »

\:D/ =D>

Glad for you that it was simple as it was for me! I wasn't going to say anything since it well could have been the rear main seal, but decided I'd throw out that personal experience. That's what I think is an important part of being a member of this community. I don't often have much to contribute, but it's really satisfying when I can, and it does someone a good turn.

I love the look of it now, with the aggressive stance and wheels.

I'm also glad you're getting that shin-knocker exhaust tucked up in place. Those pipes make my legs hurt just looking at them.
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
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