633CSi Turbo - Not a Callaway or an E24 Anymore

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tschultz
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Post by tschultz »

Sidrick wrote:Excellent work!

Is there a heater matrix replacement guide anywhere?
Not that I could find, but it is straightforward enough. I was a little worried when I started. Here's a basic outline:
1.Drop driver kick panel
2. Remove Glovebox
3. Remove emergency brake surround (screw screws underneath the fibers- a little tough to get at)
4. Remove radio
5. Remove shift boot and shift knob.
6. Unscrew center console and pop out/unplug wiring
7. Remove console to expose AC unit.
8. Remove AC blower unit. Screws on either side and one nut in front stud. I disconnected my AC lines, but beware if yours are charged!
9. Tilt AC unit from the bottom up and back so that it can be removed.
10. Remove blower motor cover under the hood by removing ~6 screws.
11. Remove 10mm nut on upper 2 studs holding the heater box in place.
12. With a 10mm wrench inside on bolt, use ratchet on top side to loosen the lower 2 bolts/nuts.
13. Disconnect heater hoses from heater core. Beware of spilling coolant (don't open when system is warm!).
14. Peel back heater box/blower away from firewall (Stick tape should come off) . Wiggle box out from either side.
15. Unclip all metal retaining clips so the box can be opened. Once opened, the heater core can be slid out and replaced.

Reassemble in reverse order, but realize these are the bigger steps there are some other misc items to remove for clearance and such. Some people suggested taking photos so you remember what goes where. Wiring and plugs will need to be removed and the heater box will have to slide out underneath most of these wires. I hope this helps!

It's a painful job, but not particularly hard. I have to reassemble the console and glovebox, but I am cleaning up the wiring for my turbo parts while I am in there already.
Last edited by tschultz on Thu May 21, 2015 7:41 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Sidrick

Post by Sidrick »

Perfect, many thanks =D>
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tschultz
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Post by tschultz »

SO the plan with the car once I get it sorted is to be more of a track car than my 535i, which doubled as my DD. This means down the road I will probably need a bigger intercooler and bigger turbo.

But for the time being, I am working on getting it running a bit better. In part throttle conditions, I still have a slight hesitation and lean condition (~15.5:1 afr), but everything drops to 12.5 on WOT where power delivery is smooth. I am thinking of playing with the Fuel Quality Switch in the ECU to see if I can richen the mixture, before I add the RRFPR and the start messing with anything else.

According to a post on the forum here and also a Porsche website, the 535i (059 ECU) values are:
If you mean the blue thing in the photograph, that's the Fuel Quality Switch. It is used to adjust the fuel mixture and retard the ignition timing in case you need to use substandard fuel. Notice that it has eight numbered settings. Normally you'd keep it at setting zero.

Image

For the 535i (059 ECU):
Setting 0: Mixture 0%, Timing 0°
Setting 1: Mixture +3.9%, Timing 0°
Setting 2: Mixture -3.9%, Timing 0°
Setting 3: Mixture -6.3%, Timing 0°
Setting 4: Mixture 0%, Timing -3.1°
Setting 5: Mixture +3.9%, Timing -3.1°
Setting 6: Mixture -3.9%, Timing -3.1°
Setting 7: Mixture -6.3%, Timing -3.1°
I'd like to see if the Setting #1 improves this fueling issue. In addition to the lean issues in the middle range, at WOT my mixture slowly creeps up from 12.5 to 13:1 as the revs increase. I'd like to think that the stock Motronic can control this slightly, so before messing with any other settings, I'm going to take a look at the FQS and see if it improves anything.

Next, I have been swapping out brakes. In anticipation of use on the track, I have the big brake upgrade from E32/E34 on the rears, where I also put on the Bilstein/Eibach rear shocks from my 535i. I'll get a couple photos, possibly tonight. This means my 535i is going back to stock height for a smoother DD ride and higher clearance for winter and snow use.

It was unfortunate to find out that the rear strut bar (jake b made) from my e28 won't fit in the E24. I will have to decide how I want to proceed. For now, likely none.

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At some point I will be adding the IE 25mm front sway bar, along with replacing front control arms and shocks. Steering components are good but will need to be aligned.

The last more or less major drivability issue is oil pressure. The same symptoms were exhibited with the old motor that came out. With 20W50, the oil pressure takes a good 10-15 seconds to build, and also once warm the dle pressure drops to less than 10psi, which is where the oil pressure light comes on. I was going to try a .090 orifice/restrictor at the inlet of my turbo. Right now it is a -4AN nipple. Any thoughts on this or any reason why I shouldn't try this? I am thinking that the turbo is getting too much flow through which is limiting the pressure that's allowed to build.

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With an increase in revs, the pressure does increase about 10psi per 1000rpm. I believe the oil pump is good, all the bolts were tight when we had the oil pan off... Any tips and or tricks?
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
m6dave
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Post by m6dave »

tschultz wrote:SO the plan with the car once I get it sorted is to be more of a track car than my 535i, which doubled as my DD. This means down the road I will probably need a bigger intercooler and bigger turbo.

But for the time being, I am working on getting it running a bit better. In part throttle conditions, I still have a slight hesitation and lean condition (~15.5:1 afr), but everything drops to 12.5 on WOT where power delivery is smooth. I am thinking of playing with the Fuel Quality Switch in the ECU to see if I can richen the mixture, before I add the RRFPR and the start messing with anything else.

According to a post on the forum here and also a Porsche website, the 535i (059 ECU) values are:
If you mean the blue thing in the photograph, that's the Fuel Quality Switch. It is used to adjust the fuel mixture and retard the ignition timing in case you need to use substandard fuel. Notice that it has eight numbered settings. Normally you'd keep it at setting zero.

Image

For the 535i (059 ECU):
Setting 0: Mixture 0%, Timing 0°
Setting 1: Mixture +3.9%, Timing 0°
Setting 2: Mixture -3.9%, Timing 0°
Setting 3: Mixture -6.3%, Timing 0°
Setting 4: Mixture 0%, Timing -3.1°
Setting 5: Mixture +3.9%, Timing -3.1°
Setting 6: Mixture -3.9%, Timing -3.1°
Setting 7: Mixture -6.3%, Timing -3.1°
I'd like to see if the Setting #1 improves this fueling issue. In addition to the lean issues in the middle range, at WOT my mixture slowly creeps up from 12.5 to 13:1 as the revs increase. I'd like to think that the stock Motronic can control this slightly, so before messing with any other settings, I'm going to take a look at the FQS and see if it improves anything.
You may also want to consider adjusting the air flow meter. The preload on the spring can be altered to make the barn door open easier at low air flow for a richer mixture. Be careful small adjustments make a significant difference.
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Post by tschultz »

I have read about this, but I'd rather not open up my two known good ones until I have to.

I have heard they were laser trimmed from the factory, so I'd rather not mess with it until I have to.

This FQS is easy to switch back and forth. I will try it tomorrow.

I got my driver's window motor guts switch to the early gearbox and put my door panel back together. Feels good to have that back together and working for the first time since owning the car!
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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Post by tschultz »

]Small update. I had to reconnect clutch master supply line on my M5 as it had popped off-- the overcenter spring assembly got damaged and it was not getting fluid to the master. The pedal felt weird (since it didn't have a fluid supply!) but I got it back together for now. I just need to get a new overcenter spring assembly (70 bucks online kinda sucks).

Anyway, onto the turbo car:

I have installed the big brake upgrade from E32/E34 all around. I am quite happy with this and it is no longer sketchy to stop.

New rotors all around, I have used pads for the moment but am thinking about race pads like PFC 06's. I don't want to spend 500 bucks on this right now, so that will have to wait.
As I mentioned, Bilsteins are switched between the 535i and this car. Now the 535i is back on stock Blue shocks, The fronts will be switched sooner than later.

I got the drivers window motor back together finally-- I switched the guts from another I had laying around and made one good one from the two (damaged) early motors I had. It took a bit of time to get that back installed, but I finally have a working driver's window and a door panel that's actually complete! I found some of the mounting screws underneath the passenger rear seat :roll: but got it all together. I also scraped off and cleaned the drivers window as it still had a sticky layer of tint from whenever the tint was removed. The window slides much smoother and looks great. It is tempting me to remove the tint from the whole car.

I also hooked up the heater core and test drove the car with all of this but found out that the temp control knob is damaged also. I only have full heat (and currently only through defrost vent) for the moment, so the center console will be coming out again. I'll try to fix all of the HVAC bowden cables at that time also.

Just a couple of photos since I haven't yet shared:

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Additionally, I set the FQS switch to position 2 and was able to get some drivability gains by adding fuel. This lowers my AFR from ~12.5-13:1 down to 11.8-12.3:1 while boosting. I am still trying to identify why this ratio creeps up when under boost and following some suggestions, I think it has to do with maximum flow from the current injectors. I have some 24 lb's sitting in a box along with a RRFPR, but i want to continue to understand what could be the issue and what is working properly.

I rigged up a fuel pressure gauge and checked my pressures tonight. With the vacuum line on, I get ~36psi. When I disconnect it jumps to about 43psi. I believe this means it is working properly, but I am concerned that it doesn't have enough difference.

Another small update. Last night I installed the oil restrictor in the line. This helped oil pressure slightly, especially with pressure build on start up.

I used a ~.090 ID fitting and it seems to be helping to maintain pressure in the system. My turbo line is sourced from a tapped oil filter housing, this was there when I bought the car, so I transferred it over to the new B34 engine. My oil pressure signal comes from a sensor at the stock sender location at the back of the valve cover. I imagine since the main supply was being split between the turbo and the head, the turbo was getting slightly more flow, decreasing the overall pressure. On cold starts after sitting for a day or more, I think this meant the pump had to supply maximum flow that the turbo would accept before being able to build pressure in the head. If facing uphill, that was taking up to 10 seconds.

With the restrictor in place, pressure builds more quickly than before when revving. Idle pressure is slightly better, although it still trips the 7psi indicator light when hot. I think this is about as good as I am going to get with this pump-- I don't want to restrict flow to the turbo any more than it already is....

Also, I drove around with my fuel pressure gauge on the windshield. A good 35 psi at idle, bumping up slightly when driving around (especially when at 0 psig and under boost). Would it be wise to add a check valve to this line so the FPR doesn't see boost pressure? Maybe this isn't important?
Also good to see was that pressure was staying close to 30psi for a good 5 minutes after shutting down the engine.

Good to know Jelmer-- I'll stick with it for the time being and buffer it with high quality fuel until I get a better idea of the reliability of the stock pump.

Lastly, I unplugged the microfueler for the test. It seems it makes no difference for running conditions! I am not sure if this means it is wired wrong, or if something in the board is fried. For the time being, I will remove it. Just one less variable to mess with. I am sure it could be useful for meth injection, but for the time it makes sense not to worry about.


Otherwise, I did some shock work on my M5. Soon to be finished so I can finish the 633. But i found out one of my front shocks was damaged. Not sure if I want to rebuild them or what...


Finally had a chance to get the temp gauge working again! I'm not sure if it was wonky because of a bad connection on the BLAU "Tempo" connector. I cleaned that off at the same time as running new wiring to the fusebox Violet/Brown. I'm thinking it was just a bad contact on the back side of the cluster but I will re-investigate next time I look at the car. I believe my fan-clutch is going bad, temp gauge is running slightly above 12 o-clock. In my experience a nice working cooling system will sit at 11 nicely.

I developed a coolant leak at the heater valve. I think the old housing was damaged. Replaced that today and it is looking leak free. Slow progress, but getting closer to the end goal little by little.
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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hornhospital
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Post by hornhospital »

I may be off-base, but that fuel pressure sounds low to me, both at idle and while running. It should be in the 40-ish PSI range at idle and up to 50 or more with the FPR vacuum line off (simulating a full throttle condition). Maybe an adjustable FPR would help? Test the pressure with the return line plugged to see what the pump will actually do. If it doesn't go way up, the pump is the problem, but I'm betting it's the FPR itself.

Good call on the fuel pressure gauge setup so you can watch it while you drive, particularly under boost. That gauge should not be seeing boost pressure, ever. It shouldn't need a check valve. If you are seeing pressure go up (way up) due to boost, something else is wrong.
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
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tschultz
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Post by tschultz »

I installed the oil restrictor in the line. This helped oil pressure slightly, especially with pressure build on start up.

I used a ~.090 ID fitting and it seems to be helping to maintain pressure in the system. My turbo line is sourced from a tapped oil filter housing, this was there when I bought the car, so I transferred it over to the new B34 engine. My oil pressure signal comes from a sensor at the stock sender location at the back of the valve cover. I imagine since the main supply was being split between the turbo and the head, the turbo was getting slightly more flow, decreasing the overall pressure. On cold starts after sitting for a day or more, I think this meant the pump had to supply maximum flow that the turbo would accept before being able to build pressure in the head. If facing uphill, that was taking up to 10 seconds.

With the restrictor in place, pressure builds more quickly than before when revving. Idle pressure is slightly better, although it still trips the 7psi indicator light when hot. I think this is about as good as I am going to get with this pump-- I don't want to restrict flow to the turbo any more than it already is....

Also, I drove around with my fuel pressure gauge on the windshield. A good 35 psi at idle, bumping up slightly when driving around (especially when at 0 psig and under boost). Would it be wise to add a check valve to this line so the FPR doesn't see boost pressure? Maybe this isn't important?
Also good to see was that pressure was staying close to 30psi for a good 5 minutes after shutting down the engine.

Good to know Jelmer-- I'll stick with it for the time being and buffer it with high quality fuel until I get a better idea of the reliability of the stock pump.

Lastly, I unplugged the microfueler for the test. It seems it makes no difference for running conditions! I am not sure if this means it is wired wrong, or if something in the board is fried. For the time being, I will remove it. Just one less variable to mess with. I am sure it could be useful for meth injection, but for the time it makes sense not to worry about.

Tonight I will be working on switching shocks/springs on my M5 to Bilstein/ H&R sport. Then the fronts on my 535i before I get to a suspension refresh on the 633.

Well, the temp sender issue was related to the connection at the back of the cluster as I thought. The extra lead I ran isn't necessary, but now it works.

Last night I fixed my headlights. For some reason the low beams would not work except with the high beam switch on the turn signal stalk. I traced it back to the low beam relay pin 30. This pin should always be hot but it was not getting power from the lead that came through the high beam relay. Something in my fusebox must be damaged, I'm not sure. Anyway, a quick jumper wire and things are working as they should be.

I also tested the FPR and found that when the return line was plugged, pressure spiked. According t the Bentley, this means the FPR wasn't working correctly. Put the spare in and it is working properly. Pressure was close enough for operating, but it wasn't regulating as it should have.

Sorry no pictures still.

Driving around the block I had the system running about 4psi. It gets moving once the turbo spins up, but spool up is slow. I want to make a pressure tester and verify that all of my piping has no leaks. Little by little we will get there!

I also found that one of the shocks I was planning to install is damaged. It blew on my 535 months ago it seems. Right now that one shock can't be compressed by hand, so the ride was super stiff (especially for a DD). Thinking about sending them both in to Bilstein for rebuild...

Finally took some time to use a multimeter and measure my O2 sensor voltage. I measured my existing O2 only to find it was not even producing a reference voltage. So i have been driving with it basically unplugged. Just drove it around the block this way and everything seemed quite normal.

I have the AEM UEGO in P4 mode (0-1V), however whenever I connect the signal the car starts to idle crappy and not want to run. But when disconnected, I am getting idle readings of right about .430 (~14.5:1, see below).
Lambda...AFR....(Gasoline) Analog Output...............Voltage Modes
(λ)........AFR.....LED "ON" Range........P0.........P1.........P2.........P3....... P4
1.008......14.75.....14.625-14.875........ 2.375....2.375......1.475.....0.238.....0.410
I wanted to investigate this because I was wondering why my AFR's slowly creep up above 5000rpm. I think this is due to the extra airflow from the turbo pulling me above the WOT 12.5:1 default (that or I have a injector oring seal that is sucking in air). But anyway, I am having a tough time getting up to even a measly 4-5psi. What i think is happening is that I have a charge pipe leak. I'm going to get a pressure/leak tester and verify that my charged pipes aren't leaking. If the problem persists, I may swap injectors to rule out the injector oring as a leak point.

I got a bracket to mount the front spoiler and finally have it supported. So I took the spoiler off to have it blasted and then I'll probably paint it with some spray cans... I'm not sure if I want to spray the airdam or not. I think it might be kinda cool to have a bronzit spoiler with the bronzit pin stripes. I'm leaning towards taking off the red ones, they just don't work. Thoughts?


And since I have been bad about getting any sort of photos, here a few with the Style 42's mounted. I had been waiting until I could get wheel locks for them. I really want to get the euro bumpers on and finalized, it's all just taking more time than I expected. I think I would now put more value on a clean running put together car for sale than I would have in the past... This stuff takes a ton of time and money to get things right...

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Oh and in the mean time I got shocks and springs swapped on the M5. Bilstein and H&R. This photo was taken right after. I'll probably bring the shock to the top perch (it's second from the top right now). The rears give a bit more bounce than I was expecting (esp compared to my Eibach's), so i'm a bit unhappy with that, but oh well maybe the perch setting will help. Also the front end looks a bit high so there's mroe reverse rake than I like, but the ride is quite comfortable with the progressive coils). I will do something with the front end sooner than later, I just hadn't been happy with the Pfeba front spoiler that I had before.

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Spent some time taking apart the center console. Found the temp control knob seized. The temperature knob spun, but the linkage between the two was damaged. A new one is coming to my house.

Today, i spent the afternoon mounting up the rear euro bumper. Pretty happy with the fitment considering I eyeballed it after a test fit. After I drilled the holes, I thought I could have mounted the chrome above the extended tail panel. It wasn't meant to be and so it is tucked underneath. Very tight clearance under the euro rear valance, so it will likely stay where it is at...

I'm trying to determine if I'm going to stick with the euro side trim covering or try to modify the US panel. Either way, some photos:

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Getting the US trim panels removed was a bonus when I did it originally, so i'm probably going to stick with the Euros...
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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Post by tschultz »

I had to head out of town for work for about a week, so I didn't get as much done as I wanted.

However I have another update for the time being. I mounted my rear Zender spoiler. I used the two studs to bolt it to the trunk, along with 3M double sided tape. unfortunately the edges are still lifting slightly, so I may have to try it again or use an adhesive instead. Onto some overdue photos:

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I also spent some time cleaning up my bumper and airdam to be painted. This was definitely a DIY job as I don't need it to be perfect, but I think it came out pretty good. I just need to get the bumper aligned nicely on the passenger side. I just used a spray can enamel and a clear coat to some sheen. Good enough for a track car, I am liking how it is comign along.

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The front will be going down once I replace the shocks/springs, but that won't happen until I install a new TCD turbo and get my exhaust/ downpipe cleaned up.

Image

I know it's dirty
Image

City lights all hooked up. You can see the alignment issue that I need to fix.
Image
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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Post by Spasso »

Looking good.
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Post by tschultz »

Bad news:
I had been hearing a creaking/clunking noise which sounded like it was coming from my drivers side rear window. I removed the seat and after not finding anything for a while, I noticed something shifting which i got in and out of the car.
The rear subframe bushing mount seems to have separated from the underbody. See pictures below:

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Can I have this welded and repaired? Any suggestions/advice greatly appreciated.

At some point I was going to install a cage, but that was quite a ways off in my mind. Maybe I need to do some structural reinforcement sooner than later... :shock:
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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Post by dick635 »

Looks like the welds failed for one reason or another (rather than rust damage) so re-welding should not be a problem. Make sure that the areas to be welded are very clean and that you have someone experienced do the welding. Adding a few braces to spread the load over this weak area is worth doing but be careful not to get in the way of the parts you want to reinstall. What look like a couple of ground wires on the loose plate should be happy to have a reliable circuit.

I'm enjoying following your progress on this project.

Dick
88 M6
91 850 - modified
13 Volkswagen R -daily driver

ANY engine will fit into ANY car if dropped from a sufficient height and the landing is cushioned with sufficient money.
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WOW Tom . . .

Post by GRNSHRK »

I've had my diff mount rewelded, twice in fact, but that doesn't look good at all :cry:

Since you're going turbo, I would suggest reinforcing the diff mount area anyway, even if just a precaution [-o<

Good luck with that, I'm sure we will want to see how you manage to correct/fix this issue :shock:

:mrgreen:
:mrgreen:
Bobbo
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2005 330 Ci ZHP Cabrio Imola Red/Bone/Black
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Post by tschultz »

Thanks for the comments guys. I found a welder guy locally who seems experienced enough to be able to handle this job. He is suggesting stick welding and attacking it from both top and bottom. It is looking like we will be able to do this in a week and a half.


I took a quick walk around of the car for you all to enjoy:
https://youtu.be/6PEVT0WAabU

In the mean time I decided last night to install the 24lb injectors. The old ones were quite dirty and probably came out of a junkyard car or something. I started it up and put the FQS switch at setting#3 (-6% fuel) to get close to stoichiometric. It was running slightly rich, so I attached the o2 sensor and now idle right at 14.7-15.0!

I drove around the block and the engine revs smoother than before and seems just a bit more happy. I'm glad I didn't need to adjust the AFM spring (I'd rather keep that stock if possible) to make this all work.

Stays right around 11AFR with WOT which may be slightly rich, but then creeps to ~13 when the additional air moves through the engine. Right now I'm running ~8psi and will be installing the RRFPR (BEGI 2025) as soon as the fittings come in in order to add fuel as more air is forced in.
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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Post by hornhospital »

Beautiful. I wonder how many times you've nailed your shins on those really looooong exhaust stingers? I walk into the bumper hitch on my truck all the time, and I know it's there. #-o Those tips would never work on mine. I'm crippled enough without further damage to my legs.
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
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Post by tschultz »

Not too many yet, haha.

I am awaiting a T04E turbo from TCD. Once I get the turbo, I'll replace the Callaway unit and then bring the car to an exhaust shop to modify my downpipe so it doesn't sit so low, and at that point, I'll have the exhaust shortened and coupled to the downpipe properly (v-band maybe?).

The pipes weren't so noticeable with the US bumpers, but sure are now! But don't worry they will be fitted properly when I get there.

I am chomping at the bit to do this because I want to get my new shocks on the front end, along with my lowering springs. I have a set of Eibachs, which I know what I am getting into, and they match the rears, however I also scored a pair of front Dinan springs. Not sure what I want to do with those bad boys yet...
But right now, the exhaust is hanging to low to be able to lower it and still drive the car #-o
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
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Post by tschultz »

Still waiting for fittings to come in to install my Begi. Also waiting on my welder contact will come to fix my rear subframe mount issue (he won't come until next weekend).

In the mean time, I mounted the IE rear sway bar. I was able to fit it to the early 533/633 style mounting ear even. I haven't driven the car yet, but I'd like to have the welder reinforce this as well when he comes out to my place.

The front, I need to continue modifying the frame rail so the new bracket can be mounted flush. Once flush, I can drill through and mount the bolt. Anyway, waiting to get these issues fixed before trying it out and driving the car. I'd like to keep everything reversible until I'm sold that I want to go forward with these bars...

Some great photos of these bars for later reference (not my cars). These are from Jeff at IE. Notice how the frame rail has to be pounded in to fir, sort of a silly design...

I am not the most happy with this design, especially since it contacts the control arm when trying to get to full lock (Kohler has mentioned this before).
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From another poster here:

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I don't want to weld unless I know I want to keep the 25mm bar... (IE or E28 M5)
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And another customer who bolted them

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In the mean time I picked up some E21 Recaros from a friend. These seats are awesome (I have them in my Euro 635)! Not sure if/when I would have them recovered but my friend says he will get me some replacement foam for what I paid him. I couldn't wait to try them out in my car this morning.

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I was thinking that the comfort bases/sliders would work with these seats, but they are too wide so I need adapters. I took some measurements and plan to make my own.

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Needless to say, I have to wait until i can make these brackets up.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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Post by tschultz »

You can see the low hanging downpipe (which is getting closer and closer to becoming priority #1).

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Also, my co-worker helped me make these after I put together my measurements. Going to try to install one or both seats tonight also.

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My welder is supposed to come this weekend to fit my cracked rear subframe mount. I'm also going to have him weld my rear sway mounts and get them reinforced as much as possible.

In the mean time got my sway bars both mounted, the front I finished up last night and got it tight to the frame rail.

The rear is also on, but here's a comparison of the 19mm vs the stock 14.5mm unit.

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It's so tiny, I now understand why the car felt like a big whale when matched with the PO's random cut rear springs and blown shocks. I haven't yet driven the car with the new bars, but will once the repair is complete.

Also a glamour shot of the Recaro seat brackets. My coworker made them real nice, .250" AL.

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They fit perfectly also

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Putting a radio in the car and awaiting fittings so I can finally install the BEGi. They sent me the wrong fittings (i want 5/16" ID barb x 1/8" mNPT, I got 1/8" ID) last week, so I'm sitting around waiting. But not I think I have a bonus couple of fittings to use as spare boost ports if I get a tee somewhere.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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Post by tschultz »

I know I have been bad about loading pictures, so I took some today after installing my (old) radio and putting the glovebox and knee panel in place. I have previously fitted the Recaro seats, even though the Driver's needs to be redone. The main pieces missing from the interior are the ebrake surround and the rear seat for access during the repair when the welder comes tomorrow.

Some pictures of the 24# injectors that my brother gave me. They are from Ford crown vic's
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The front sway bar after mounting the other night.

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The rear sway bar/mount.

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The front window all fixed and door panel all back together. I found almost all the pieces in the mess from when I bought the car. Nice to have the window working properly again.

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The seats installed. You can see the custom brackets. The good news is that seating position is great.

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Cockpit and laughable gauge pod. I wired this up in this position and at least it is functional! At some point I will probably upgrade to something that isn't damaged and looks better, but it works for now.

the trunk cleaned up pretty well, including the toolkit, tire lug wrench and spare which is such a far cry from when I bought it.

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Passenger side. This seat I was going to put on the drivers side, but it only has a tilt lever on the outside bolster.

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And of course, an engine bay shot

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I drove it around the block because I couldn't resist with the new bars. It is sooo much better. Even with clapped out shocks and the stock springs, the front of the car feels so much more agile than before. It is much more accepting to change directions and feels much more similar to the M5's handling characteristics.

Additional video once i get the subframe mount fixed.

Adding a signal line onto the BOV helped to open and hold close the valve during normal operation. At the moment, it will run up to 8/9psi with my current settings. Fueling is good (11-12.5) up until the higher revs where it starts to go lean (13-13.5). I obviously haven't driven it hard up top because of this.
My biggest concern is intermediate throttle between WOT and below. Up until the threshold throttle position, I see 14-15 AFR's even if accelerating slightly. I am hoping the RRFPR will help aid this in boost related settings, but that leaves the transition between.


I am just wondering in the scenario where I am on boost and I left off briefly and then continue with part throttle where theres still engine load/accelerating may 2/3's). This scenario is where I see the lean condition and it worries me.
Should I take the plunge and adjust my AFM to richen over the entire rev range??

Any thoughts?
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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Post by tschultz »

A couple photos of Frank the welder doing his job. The issue must have been there a while as there were a few locations he couldn't weld due to the lack of thickness in the metal. But in all he got a good 3-4" of weld in there. He used carbon/stick welding and it took about an hour

Cleaned up, you can see about 3/4" of the way around the welds had been damaged/cracked.

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Here's a short video on my way into work.
I really only got on the gas in second gear. Running 8psi and O2 sensor disconnected. It idles right about 14.7 in 70/80 temperatures, but it was about 50 this morning.
The camera placement allows you to see the gauges. On transition throttle and -10-0psi, you can see AFR's in the ~13-14 range. I am hoping to remedy this with the RRFPR. Under WOT the larger injectors give about 10-11:1 AFR until the turbo starts moving air. As I understand this is rich, but maybe still acceptable. Once reaching 5+psi AFR's go lean, and this is where the RRFPR will really help.

https://youtu.be/9aw1Uw0aPNE

You can see oil pressure flickers at 7/8 psi at hot idle. Is this something to be concerned with? I'm running 20W50 conventional...
Once in the revs at this temperature, I see anywhere from 10-40psi oil pressure.

Curious to hear you guys' thoughts on this and overall drivability. Going to try the RRFPR but I now have MS in the back of my mind as a future upgrade.[/
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
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Post by Da_Hose »

The extra ponies probably tore that mount area loose on the body.

Carbon stick is fine if you have experience using it, but material thickness is not an issue with MIG welding.

If it were me, I would clean up the underside and go to an exhaust welding shop and ask if they can put a full bead around the whole area from the underneath.

Jose
1987 M6 - My dream car
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Post by M6smitten »

Motor sounds really good.
2011 1 Series M
1974 2002 Turbo
1987 M6 (2/87) - Sold
1984 M635CSi (10/84) - Sold
2012 335 xi
2009 328 xi

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Post by tschultz »

Thanks!

It's running better than ever, as I added the BEGI 2025 RRFPR. This adds fuel based on manifold pressures. Now I am now getting a way rich condition on WOT at 5psi or less, but have it tuned much better in the mid range.

At 3/4 throttle it really gets going and AFR's look good.

Aaron you will see it soon, but it won't be making D4C unfortunately.
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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Post by tschultz »

I had the two sharks out and I snapped a photo of the euro car next to the (super dirty) turbo car :
The turbo car looks worse paint wise, but is in better condition rust-wise.

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So I continued progress yesterday in removing parts from the rear end. I have everything ready to go for removal, minus the shocks on either side, the brake lines, and the diff mount.

Speaking of which, how do I remove rusted brake lines? I think I need to remove the hard lines so the assembly can be lowered and rolled away for repair access.

What is the best way to take them apart without damaging them? On a search, I read heat may be the best way. any suggestions?

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I loosened it tonight to make sure the assembly would move as I suspected.

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Fortunately it dropped down slowly on the side I am concerned with. More pictures to come when it is fully off. But you can see the crack, which is maybe 50% around the mating parts:

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This photo shows how part of the underbody is torn enough so that it is pulling downward slightly from the weight of the loosened assembly.

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I have replacement subframe mounts here ready to go, however I am unsure how to remove the old ones... At 150k and their current condition I'm half tempted to leave them alone--- Of course on the other hand, I don't want to be in here again on this car if possible.

Any suggestions or bookmarked threads on the actual removal?

Here's how the driveway looks. The M5 front end is apart as I'm fitting a euro valance. Having some issues getting it fitted where I want before installing the fogs, turns, and possibly new spoiler.

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Oh yeah, I also bought some parts on Ebay and pieced together a coarse spline hub and Raid/Racemark I steering wheel (330mm) and Alpina horn button! The turn signal shut off was damaged, so I may just live with it or get one at some point. I won't install it until I get the front end of the car redone (control arms, shocks, springs). So it's patiently waiting hanging above my work bench.

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I just got the subframe off yesterday, so the welder friend can fix it today. I will add more pictures tonight or this weekend.
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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Post by tschultz »

I'll update what I posted on mye28 last week:

With the subframe out, conveniently my welder Frank could make it out today and finish cleaning up and re-welding the mount location. We were able to pull the plate that is hanging in the photo, out completely by hand. Pretty sure it scraping/shifting is what caused the noises I was hearing.

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We cleaned up and prepped the area with a grinder and in the process saw the full extent of the cracking. I don't know how this happened, other than by somebody beating the crap out of the car. I guess it's possible the cracks were caused by the accident damage, and over 4-5 years of daily driving after the 'repairs'. Fortunately the bolt for the subframe was solidly in place. I think everything had just been shifting upward before the initial repair a couple months ago. Lately I still heard a small squeaking sound, which I think was that plate rubbing against where it had torn off.

Frank at work again. In the last test drive, he was really impressed with the performance of the car, saying he felt it 'hauled ass' after I described I wasn't happy with the Callaway turbo response.

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Today he closed up the holes inside the wheel well. These were there from the initial welding work where his stick welding was too hot and cut through the rusted metal.

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From the bottom, his weld beads show the extent of the cracking that wasn't visible originally:

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The largest crack moved outward to the edge where the uni-body met the lip/skirt that runs the length of the car.

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Now no more light is visible through the body. Before we could see a few locations-- such as the wheel well. I'm going to clean up the areas where he welded, pull off the burnt under-coating, and then re-coat it all before reassembly.

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I won't have time tomorrow to do much unfortunately, but I plan to jump on it Sunday.

After this is all back together, I will have the following:
-T04E turbo replacewment
-Tclamps, and coupling replacement
-Intercooler piping sand and clear coat
-finish exhaust so that it doesn't sit so low(quick coupling method?)
-front shock/strut replacement
-front control arm replacement
-front alignment

Not sure how fast I will get to it-- funds are limited. some items may be in the next month or two, others may not be until 2016


Also, from this weekend:

This weekend was my bachelor party for a wedding in December. With that said, it sort of explains my somewhat slow progress. But anyway, my brothers both signed themselves and me up for a lapping day at High Plains Raceway here in CO. I have been there about 4/5 times prior in my 535i. I have the same shocks/springs from that car on this car now, but the fronts haven't yet been swapped over.

It was good thing I got the subframe issue resolved a little over a week ago, because my brother planned to bring a new project e30, but he ran into issues literally the night before the event while driving it to my house where he was going to spend the night. We thought we fixed the problem, but his temp gauge heated up just a couple of miles from my house so he puleld over. As we were looking at it, all of the sudden a coolant pipe (plastic) blew right in front of us. The plastic barb had broken off. After some issues, we luckily had a trailer, unloaded the other car and the got the E30 loaded and back to my house.

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I had my car ready to go, as I had sort of anticipated the issues and wanted to have a small backup plan. With confidence of driving the prior full week to work, I headed out in the Turbo, knowing that temps would be 50-65's. I had stole the wheels off the M5 and headed out.

At the track it almost didn't work out because I forgot to grab the standard lug bolts (the RA's use extended lugs) and was sitting SOL when I went to change my wheels and tires.

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I decided I might as well check the air pressures and anticipated using those wheels and 'going easy', like that would be possible at the racetrack :rofl: A nice camera makes it look like a fairly decent car!

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A short video following my brother is the car my dad built, a 1600 with a 2.0 M10.

The car did very well, I ran probably a good 3 sessions, with the next 2 being cut short due to hose coupling issues. I still haven't yet upgraded from the originals on pg 1. I have pressure tested it, so I had been fairly confident. It was very easy to drive, the sway bars really helped and seemed to grip nicely. I really didn't push it in the corners, nor on the brakes. The sport seats worked great, and the sway bar mounts didn't break like I was worried about! I still flew by my friend jesse (Blue Owl) in his 535i on the straight where he was hitting 100 and I was at about 115mph.

The turbo was really laggy, like full throttle... count one....two...three... and you'd hear the spool and feel the power kick in. Very interesting as it made me break early and get on the gas ASAP in the turns. Really neat to drive this car and then hop in the 02 for a few laps and have a car with max corner speed, a car that really is meant to be thrown around a bit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LD33euK-8Us

I may have a few others in the next week or so.

Here's a few other photos which turned out pretty sweet. I taped the headlights as a tribute to the racing E24 heritage-- IMO it makes the car look that much more aggressive.

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In the pit between sessions with some of the other BMW guys who showed up together:

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http://www.Drive4Corners.com
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'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
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