I installed the oil restrictor in the line. This helped oil pressure slightly, especially with pressure build on start up.
I used a ~.090 ID fitting and it seems to be helping to maintain pressure in the system. My turbo line is sourced from a tapped oil filter housing, this was there when I bought the car, so I transferred it over to the new B34 engine. My oil pressure signal comes from a sensor at the stock sender location at the back of the valve cover. I imagine since the main supply was being split between the turbo and the head, the turbo was getting slightly more flow, decreasing the overall pressure. On cold starts after sitting for a day or more, I think this meant the pump had to supply maximum flow that the turbo would accept before being able to build pressure in the head. If facing uphill, that was taking up to 10 seconds.
With the restrictor in place, pressure builds more quickly than before when revving. Idle pressure is slightly better, although it still trips the 7psi indicator light when hot. I think this is about as good as I am going to get with this pump-- I don't want to restrict flow to the turbo any more than it already is....
Also, I drove around with my fuel pressure gauge on the windshield. A good 35 psi at idle, bumping up slightly when driving around (especially when at 0 psig and under boost). Would it be wise to add a check valve to this line so the FPR doesn't see boost pressure? Maybe this isn't important?
Also good to see was that pressure was staying close to 30psi for a good 5 minutes after shutting down the engine.
Good to know Jelmer-- I'll stick with it for the time being and buffer it with high quality fuel until I get a better idea of the reliability of the stock pump.
Lastly, I unplugged the microfueler for the test. It seems it makes no difference for running conditions! I am not sure if this means it is wired wrong, or if something in the board is fried. For the time being, I will remove it. Just one less variable to mess with. I am sure it could be useful for meth injection, but for the time it makes sense not to worry about.
Tonight I will be working on switching shocks/springs on my M5 to Bilstein/ H&R sport. Then the fronts on my 535i before I get to a suspension refresh on the 633.
Well, the temp sender issue was related to the connection at the back of the cluster as I thought. The extra lead I ran isn't necessary, but now it works.
Last night I fixed my headlights. For some reason the low beams would not work except with the high beam switch on the turn signal stalk. I traced it back to the low beam relay pin 30. This pin should always be hot but it was not getting power from the lead that came through the high beam relay. Something in my fusebox must be damaged, I'm not sure. Anyway, a quick jumper wire and things are working as they should be.
I also tested the FPR and found that when the return line was plugged, pressure spiked. According t the Bentley, this means the FPR wasn't working correctly. Put the spare in and it is working properly. Pressure was close enough for operating, but it wasn't regulating as it should have.
Sorry no pictures still.
Driving around the block I had the system running about 4psi. It gets moving once the turbo spins up, but spool up is slow. I want to make a pressure tester and verify that all of my piping has no leaks. Little by little we will get there!
I also found that one of the shocks I was planning to install is damaged. It blew on my 535 months ago it seems. Right now that one shock can't be compressed by hand, so the ride was super stiff (especially for a DD). Thinking about sending them both in to Bilstein for rebuild...
Finally took some time to use a multimeter and measure my O2 sensor voltage. I measured my existing O2 only to find it was not even producing a reference voltage. So i have been driving with it basically unplugged. Just drove it around the block this way and everything seemed quite normal.
I have the AEM UEGO in P4 mode (0-1V), however whenever I connect the signal the car starts to idle crappy and not want to run. But when disconnected, I am getting idle readings of right about .430 (~14.5:1, see below).
Lambda...AFR....(Gasoline) Analog Output...............Voltage Modes
(λ)........AFR.....LED "ON" Range........P0.........P1.........P2.........P3....... P4
1.008......14.75.....14.625-14.875........ 2.375....2.375......1.475.....0.238.....0.410
I wanted to investigate this because I was wondering why my AFR's slowly creep up above 5000rpm. I think this is due to the extra airflow from the turbo pulling me above the WOT 12.5:1 default (that or I have a injector oring seal that is sucking in air). But anyway, I am having a tough time getting up to even a measly 4-5psi. What i think is happening is that I have a charge pipe leak. I'm going to get a pressure/leak tester and verify that my charged pipes aren't leaking. If the problem persists, I may swap injectors to rule out the injector oring as a leak point.
I got a bracket to mount the front spoiler and finally have it supported. So I took the spoiler off to have it blasted and then I'll probably paint it with some spray cans... I'm not sure if I want to spray the airdam or not. I think it might be kinda cool to have a bronzit spoiler with the bronzit pin stripes. I'm leaning towards taking off the red ones, they just don't work. Thoughts?
And since I have been bad about getting any sort of photos, here a few with the Style 42's mounted. I had been waiting until I could get wheel locks for them. I really want to get the euro bumpers on and finalized, it's all just taking more time than I expected. I think I would now put more value on a clean running put together car for sale than I would have in the past... This stuff takes a ton of time and money to get things right...
Oh and in the mean time I got shocks and springs swapped on the M5. Bilstein and H&R. This photo was taken right after. I'll probably bring the shock to the top perch (it's second from the top right now). The rears give a bit more bounce than I was expecting (esp compared to my Eibach's), so i'm a bit unhappy with that, but oh well maybe the perch setting will help. Also the front end looks a bit high so there's mroe reverse rake than I like, but the ride is quite comfortable with the progressive coils). I will do something with the front end sooner than later, I just hadn't been happy with the Pfeba front spoiler that I had before.
Spent some time taking apart the center console. Found the temp control knob seized. The temperature knob spun, but the linkage between the two was damaged. A new one is coming to my house.
Today, i spent the afternoon mounting up the rear euro bumper. Pretty happy with the fitment considering I eyeballed it after a test fit. After I drilled the holes, I thought I could have mounted the chrome above the extended tail panel. It wasn't meant to be and so it is tucked underneath. Very tight clearance under the euro rear valance, so it will likely stay where it is at...
I'm trying to determine if I'm going to stick with the euro side trim covering or try to modify the US panel. Either way, some photos:
Getting the US trim panels removed was a bonus when I did it originally, so i'm probably going to stick with the Euros...