1984 633CSi Rises again!

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dwcains
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by dwcains »

Thanks for the tips. As for flashing all the signals, I recall I was able to find a wire on the hazard switch when I installed an alarm in my E30 M3 back in '87. That will probably work in the E24, too. First thing I've got to do is pull out the central lock control module and clean the contact points, as currently it's inoperative. It might even be easier to tie the aftermarket unit directly into that module.
Dean
Lutz, FL

'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang »

dwcains wrote:Thanks for the tips. As for flashing all the signals, I recall I was able to find a wire on the hazard switch when I installed an alarm in my E30 M3 back in '87. That will probably work in the E24, too. First thing I've got to do is pull out the central lock control module and clean the contact points, as currently it's inoperative. It might even be easier to tie the aftermarket unit directly into that module.
Let me know if you figure that out. I ended up disconnecting the passenger side lights. So when I lock or unlock, the drivers side lights flash. That's good enough for now.

Also, I uploaded a picture to the original post so you can see the connectors I used and how they are spliced into the wires of the trunk actuator and the wires running along the bottom on the trunk.
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1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by dwcains »

If you don't want add a bunch of extra wiring to get to the hazard switch, you can isolate the left and right signal circuits with a diode on each side, in the lead from the lock module which powers the lights.
Dean
Lutz, FL

'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang »

dwcains wrote:If you don't want add a bunch of extra wiring to get to the hazard switch, you can isolate the left and right signal circuits with a diode on each side, in the lead from the lock module which powers the lights.
Can you elaborate?
I split my one lead into two in order to have a wire for the right and left side turn signals. I think what you are saying is that I can isolate the left and right sides using diodes, even if they are being powered from the same common lead.

If I'm getting this, it means that power in the common lead would goto both sides, but if only one side is energized (via turn signal, etc.) the other side would be isolated. Am I getting this right?

Would this mean I put a diode in each of the left and right sides after the split?
Also, what value of diode would I look for? Thanks for any info.
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1984 633CSi
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by dwcains »

Yes, one diode in each branch of the wires going to the signals on each side. Not sure on the value, but maybe something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Signal-Gle ... ords=diode

If they're too small and end up blowing after a while, keep trying a larger value. Where you are, you can just pop into Fry's and they'll have just abut anything you need.
Dean
Lutz, FL

'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang »

dwcains wrote:Yes, one diode in each branch of the wires going to the signals on each side. Not sure on the value, but maybe something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Signal-Gle ... ords=diode

If they're too small and end up blowing after a while, keep trying a larger value. Where you are, you can just pop into Fry's and they'll have just abut anything you need.
Excellent, that make sense as the diodes are just one way gates. I'll have to head to Radio Shack (much closer than Fry's for me) and give this a shot tomorrow. Thanks.
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No more boat action

Post by songzunhuang »

So to my surprise, my center link arrived at 10am this morning. Of course that meant that I had to get it onto the car ASAP so that I could experience the difference in handling. Recall in a previous post that my ball joint was really loose and that was causing very vague steering. So I got Meyle unit for $73 from the local auto parts store. Great deal! I couldn't find it online any cheaper.
New center link along with a balljoint tool. It was a b$%tch to get 30 year old ball joints apart!
New center link along with a balljoint tool. It was a b$%tch to get 30 year old ball joints apart!
CenterLink.png (626.57 KiB) Viewed 7505 times
The new Meyle link used self locking nuts with a nylon insert instead of the crown nuts with a cotter pin through it. I'm guessing it should be ok. BTW, it was a real pain to get the ball joint apart even with the ball joint tool. There was no way to get a direct shot at the joint! I spent probably 45 minutes banging on the ball joints from all different angles before it finally gave. Allocate time for this operation.

Installing the new center link was much easier than getting the old one off.
Here's the link installed in the car.
Here's the link installed in the car.
CT Installed.png (730.21 KiB) Viewed 7505 times
After the installation, I took the car out for a quick drive and was delighted at how much better it felt. I can now say that my car is much less "boaty". I'll have to torque the nuts again after a few days as I couldn't get a torque wrench in there very well. I just turned it as tight as my fingers and wrench clearance would allow.

Side note - the underside of my car was pretty clean considering it's 31 years old and I've never cleaned it. That was one nice surprise for today.
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1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang »

songzunhuang wrote:
dwcains wrote:Yes, one diode in each branch of the wires going to the signals on each side. Not sure on the value, but maybe something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Signal-Gle ... ords=diode

If they're too small and end up blowing after a while, keep trying a larger value. Where you are, you can just pop into Fry's and they'll have just abut anything you need.
Excellent, that make sense as the diodes are just one way gates. I'll have to head to Radio Shack (much closer than Fry's for me) and give this a shot tomorrow. Thanks.
OK, I ran to Radio shack and got a pair of 50v and a pair of 200v diodes today. I wonder if it matters, but they are rated at 3A. I know that normally the lighting circuits have a 7.5A fuse. I hope this doesn't prove to be a problem. These were the highest amperage diodes that they had. I didn't have time to install today, but I'll record the results here when I do. Thanks again for the tip.
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1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383
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Keyless Remote Flashing lights all working!

Post by songzunhuang »

Thanks to "dwcains", I was able to get a few diodes and fix my keyless entry system so that locking and unlocking flashes all the lights and it doesn't interfere with the turn signals. (See post about 4 entries earlier). I used a pair of 50V 3A rectifier diode from Radio Shack that cost only $1.99. They worked perfectly.

I had to experiment with the direction of the current flow, but once I figured out one, the other was simple. I soldered them both in place and encased them in some heat shrink tubing for protection.
Diode on left just prior to soldering in place. The one on the right is already encase in the tubing.
Diode on left just prior to soldering in place. The one on the right is already encase in the tubing.
Diodes.png (901.47 KiB) Viewed 7486 times
As you can see in the picture above, the Main remote unit has one brown wire to flash the lights when locked or unlocked. I split this wire to energize the left and right sides, but then they were bridged when ever I turned on the turn signals. That was unacceptable because it made the turn signal act like hazard lights since they were all linked. The diodes are placed onto each branch so that they can be energized by the main unit, but when the turn signals are activated, the diodes block the current that would brodge the other side.

Below is a picture of the wiring in the trunk. It's pretty clean with all of the wires attaching to the wiring bundle along the back of the trunk. Using the power trunk lock makes installation easy. Also the red wire along the top taps into a 12v constant voltage in the trunk light harness.
The main unit "Black Box" is kept in the upper right of the drive side turn tailight. It's kept it place by the gray felt trim piece. Red wire is the tap for 12v power into the trunk light harness.
The main unit "Black Box" is kept in the upper right of the drive side turn tailight. It's kept it place by the gray felt trim piece. Red wire is the tap for 12v power into the trunk light harness.
Trunk Wiring.png (800.75 KiB) Viewed 7486 times
If you have been looking for a remote lock/unlock, the DoCooler unit from Amazon works great and is only $20. (if you include the diodes).
-----
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by dwcains »

Nicely done. Glad it worked out.
Dean
Lutz, FL

'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
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Time for New Belts

Post by songzunhuang »

So I have been putting off the replacement of the belts on the car mainly because I couldn't figure out how to get slack in the compressor belt. That belt is the first one that has to come off to get to the others. Well, today I attacked it all, mainly because I had to.

I jacked the car up to check on the steering links that I just replaced to make sure they were all tight still. They were fine, but I noticed that my main belt for the water pump and alternator was beginning to fray. It was pretty far gone. So today turned into a belt changing day.

Here's the belt that was in the worst shape. Not only was it frayed, but if you bent the belt the opposite way, the were large cracks between the rubber bumps. This belt was not long for this world.
The fraying and cracking of this belt was pretty severe. Glad I caught it while in my driveway.
The fraying and cracking of this belt was pretty severe. Glad I caught it while in my driveway.
Old Belt.png (456.46 KiB) Viewed 7414 times
I got a Conti-Tech belt for the Alternator/Water pump and a Gates XL belt for the power steering pump. I didn't have another A/C compressor belt handy. Good news is that the one I had didn't look too terrible.
I had purchased new belts, but had put off installing them until now.
I had purchased new belts, but had put off installing them until now.
New Belts.png (719.24 KiB) Viewed 7414 times
Off comes the fan. At least I got to see the shiny newish radiator I replaced 4 months ago.
Had to take off the fan in order to remove all the belts.
Had to take off the fan in order to remove all the belts.
Screen Shot 2016-01-10 at 11.35.59 PM.png (805.79 KiB) Viewed 7414 times
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Rear Suspension weirdness

Post by songzunhuang »

I also inspected my rear suspension today. I've been experiencing bottoming out of the rear and also I think the back of the car sits too low. I discovered that I have mismatched Bilsteins. I also see that my bump stop is destroyed on the passenger side.
Driver's side had a nice yellow Bilstein as I expected. Things didn't look too bad overall.
Driver's side had a nice yellow Bilstein as I expected. Things didn't look too bad overall.
Driver Side.png (475.51 KiB) Viewed 7414 times
To my surprise, the passenger side had a black Bilstein. I wonder what's up with that?
To my surprise, the passenger side had a black Bilstein. I wonder what's up with that?
Passender Side.png (395.91 KiB) Viewed 7414 times
Looking through the springs, I can see that the bump stops are goners.
Looking through the springs, I can see that the bump stops are goners.
Bump stop.png (178.04 KiB) Viewed 7414 times
It looks like I am going to need to just re-do my rear suspension. I'm going to start looking into changing it all out on both sides. Nothing looked damaged (besides the bumpstop) or anything. I think it's just old and needs a refresh.
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by sansouci »

Check your pittman arms AKA dog bones as they are likely shot, too.
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
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OBC woes solved?

Post by songzunhuang »

I was at my wits end with my possessed On Board Computer (OBC). It goes on and off at will and was also responsible for the blaring alarm horn that forced me to disconnect it one day while driving home. I saw a used OBC unit appear on eBay for a reasonable price and thought I would give it a go. The unit came out of a 1983 633 so it was one year earlier than my car, but the pictures showed the part and model #'s matched so I went ahead and bought it, even though the seller told me that he had no way to test it. From the picture, it looked a lot more beat up than mine, but hey, it may actually work. That was the working principle.

Well, this morning before work I quickly installed the unit and said a silent prayer as I turned my car on. To my delight, the 4 red dots lit up and I programmed the correct time. (Picture below)
Excited that the beat up OBC out of a wrecked 633 seems to be working for me! I'm going to be late for work.
Excited that the beat up OBC out of a wrecked 633 seems to be working for me! I'm going to be late for work.
Screen Shot 2016-01-12 at 5.10.32 PM.png (611.11 KiB) Viewed 7377 times
Driving to work this morning, I checked various functions of the OBC and everything appears to be working. I am trying to contain my excitement as the OBC has come on and off randomly in the past months. I remain hopeful that my OBC woes are over. Now GripGreg(?) can stop paining that I am always complaining about my OBC.
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by sansouci »

Cogged belts seem unusual.
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by hornhospital »

They go by various names, but power notch is one of them. The idea is the belt can flex more freely without jeopardizing strength. I've had better results with the notched belts than the plain vee belts. Whichever you use, buy the higher priced ones. The few extra dollars are worth it.
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by sansouci »

Live and learn.
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84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang »

sansouci wrote:Live and learn.
Yeah, I was a bit surprised when the power steering belt was $27. That seemed a lot for a short thin belt. I'm hoping that the quality of the belt lives up to its price and name. It was a Gates XL (eXtended Life). We will see.
Here's the pricey belt as I was installing it in the car. This is from below of course.
Here's the pricey belt as I was installing it in the car. This is from below of course.
Screen Shot 2016-01-19 at 12.22.28 AM.png (576.13 KiB) Viewed 7326 times
Last edited by songzunhuang on Tue Jan 19, 2016 8:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Slight annoyance fixed

Post by songzunhuang »

Early on when I got my car, I didn't realize that BMW's had a geared nut to adjust the belt tension. I cranked like hell on the nut for the alternator and learned the hard way that it was a soft gear. Although I've been able to get it to work, I finally got around to ordering the $11 nut and changing it out. The fact that it won't stop raining made it interesting. Luckily it only took like 10 minutes in the drizzle and rain.
Ah, fixing a car in the rain appears to be a regular occurance for me. Luckily it was only drizzling.
Ah, fixing a car in the rain appears to be a regular occurance for me. Luckily it was only drizzling.
Raining.png (606.62 KiB) Viewed 7327 times
I really did a number on the original toothed nut. Got it all fixed up now.
I really did a number on the original toothed nut. Got it all fixed up now.
Toothed Nut.png (352.7 KiB) Viewed 7327 times
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1984 633CSi
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Time for new suspension

Post by songzunhuang »

I have always thought my car was sagging in the rear. Now after 1,000 miles of commuting and many occurrences of bottoming out, wheel lockup on braking and general squirrley behavior. I am sure of it. Recently I saw a post from Chris Wright regarding the proper distance from the wheel hub center to the fender lip. viewtopic.php?f=17&t=24702

It's supposed to be about 15 1/8" for my car.
I immediately ran out to my car and measured. Here's what I have.
Driver front: 15 1/4"
Passenger front: 15 1/4"
Driver rear: 13 1/2"
Passenger rear: 13 1/8"

Although those were rough and fast measurements, it's dramatic enough a difference to confirm and also to verify that my car's "nose-high" attitude is not an optical illusion. Now, I have to figure out how to work all new suspension and tires into the budget. Oh boy...
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It's suspension time!

Post by songzunhuang »

Had a pretty good day today. I met up with Ralph from SoCal (but in NorCal for a roadtrip) and purchase a set of HR springs and front Bilstien sports. I've got the rears on order from BavAuto and am hoping they make it from the east coast to California in record time. Along with this setup, Ralph was good enough to leave me with some hub-centric spacers to check out. It won't be long before my car finally sits correctly and, hopefully, handles awesome.
Part of today's haul thanks to Ralph from SoCal. Can't wait to get it all installed.
Part of today's haul thanks to Ralph from SoCal. Can't wait to get it all installed.
Front Bilsteins.png (923.98 KiB) Viewed 7228 times
Now on the way home, I learned not to ignore the reserve fuel light. Although it came on, my OBC said I had a 35 mile range left. I only had 15 miles to home. I thought I could make it. I thought wrong. When it died, my fuel gauge was still registering 1/4 tank and the range was 30 miles. Next thing after suspension will be fixing the fuel level sender! I learned that to have a roadside assistance bring you 2 gallons of gas, it costs $67. Yuck.
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by captain awesome »

Sucks about the gas thing but hopefully you get the sender sorted soon. I'm sure you have probably already researched it a bit, but figure I should at least mention buying a set of strut compressors from Harbor Freighthttp://www.harborfreight.com/macpherson ... 61654.html. I picked mine up for around $13 with a %20 coupon. Couple that with an impact and it made swapping springs and shocks a breeze. I was a bit worried the construction may be too cheap for something like this, but I was pleasantly surprised how well they worked. I've used the rental style from the local parts store before and haven't been a fan of them.

Also BavAuto has a good write up on shock install that helps a ton on http://blog.bavauto.com/4383/bmw-shock- ... tallation/ but the piece I found the most helpful was a sub article within that one. I used just a standard box wrench, t-handle allen wrench, and the plug socket to tighten. Worked like a charm.
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84 633csi 5 spd

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Re: It's suspension time!

Post by sansouci »

[/quote]
Now on the way home, I learned not to ignore the reserve fuel light. Although it came on, my OBC said I had a 35 mile range left. I only had 15 miles to home. I thought I could make it. I thought wrong. When it died, my fuel gauge was still registering 1/4 tank and the range was 30 miles. Next thing after suspension will be fixing the fuel level sender! I learned that to have a roadside assistance bring you 2 gallons of gas, it costs $67. Yuck.[/quote]

Song,
Don't bother to screw around with the level sender. Just remember to fill up at 1/4 tank
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
songzunhuang
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Re: It's suspension time!

Post by songzunhuang »

sansouci wrote: Now on the way home, I learned not to ignore the reserve fuel light. Although it came on, my OBC said I had a 35 mile range left. I only had 15 miles to home. I thought I could make it. I thought wrong. When it died, my fuel gauge was still registering 1/4 tank and the range was 30 miles. Next thing after suspension will be fixing the fuel level sender! I learned that to have a roadside assistance bring you 2 gallons of gas, it costs $67. Yuck.

Song,
Don't bother to screw around with the level sender. Just remember to fill up at 1/4 tank
I learned my lesson. Maybe in the future when I run out of things to fix, I'll get to the sender. .... Haha, like I'll ever run out of things to fix.

Sansouci - hope are surviving the Snowmageddon ok!
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Last 7 of VIN: 6997383
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by sansouci »

Garage Queen is snug in the barn. But the e32 is under a foot of snow!
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
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