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1984 633CSi Rises again!

Document your Sixer project here.

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by raykoke » Wed Nov 15, 2017 4:41 pm

I have one installed also. For about 10 years I think.

Here's the install instructions btw.

http://www.mwrench.com/download/steeringfix.pdf

Cheers,

Ray
'85 ///M635

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang » Wed Nov 15, 2017 7:10 pm

raykoke wrote:
Wed Nov 15, 2017 4:41 pm
I have one installed also. For about 10 years I think.

Here's the install instructions btw.

http://www.mwrench.com/download/steeringfix.pdf

Cheers,

Ray
Ray, thanks for the link. Luckily I spent about an hour with Ed (the guy who makes them) and he gave me the detailed lowdown. Those instructions you linked to are very well written! This morning, I ducked under the car and installed the fix. It took me all of 20 minutes even with extensive cleanup. I've made an appointment for the welding but decided the drive the car to work. Here's a picture of the fix installed. You can make out the flange of the dowel on the bottom of the subframe and if you look above you can see the dowel extending into the steering box.

This really fit well and I am super happy with the kit. I'll post a more detailed account when I have more time in the evening. Big thumbs up!
Screen Shot 2017-11-15 at 11.06.44 AM.png
Ed's fix installed looking up from bottom of car.
Screen Shot 2017-11-15 at 11.06.44 AM.png (1.49 MiB) Viewed 3458 times
-----
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1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Installing Ed's Fix

Post by songzunhuang » Thu Nov 16, 2017 6:34 am

So for those wondering about the fix for the steering box, here's a couple of more pictures of the installation process. It'll probably take me longer to type this and post it than it took to install this! I'm telling you, it was easy.

First, I drove my car up a Rhino ramp so that it's easy to get under the car. I took a look at the broken bracket. You can turn the steering wheel and you can see how it rotated and pulls apart. I did that just to see what it looked like and to get this picture of this supremely broken bracket.
Broken.png
Really broke. Turn the wheel and see the original bracket pull apart.
Broken.png (1.2 MiB) Viewed 3439 times
I then took out the nut and bolt and then got ready to take the paint off the subframe using a wire wheel and a drill.
WireBrush.png
W need clean metal to weld the fix onto the subframe. I used a wire brush to take off the paint quickly.
WireBrush.png (993.03 KiB) Viewed 3439 times
Here's the finished subframe cleanup. I gave myself plenty of room for the welder to do their thing.
Cleaned.png
Ready for the install and the welder.
Cleaned.png (1.11 MiB) Viewed 3439 times
I decided to install the fragment of the broken bracken as it'd locate the dowel perfectly and allow me to crank it down. Here's the installed steel dowel and you can see how it all fits. I've made an appointment to get this welded to finish this off. You'd be surprised how hard it is to find someone to do this!
Installed.png
Fix in place and ready for welding.
Installed.png (1.23 MiB) Viewed 3439 times
I had to drive a few times before I would get a chance to have this welded, so I thought having the original bracket in place would keep it in place. Back to finding a welder. I called an auto service place and they told me to call a muffler shop. I called a muffler shop and almost made an appointment and then he asked me if this is an exhaust system. When I told him no, he said that his insurance only covers exhaust systems so he couldn't do it! So I called an auto body place and that's where I am going in the morning. Man, almost made me go buy welding equipment.
-----
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1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Re: Installing Ed's Fix

Post by hornhospital » Thu Nov 16, 2017 7:49 am

songzunhuang wrote:
Thu Nov 16, 2017 6:34 am
Man, almost made me go buy welding equipment.
You should seriously consider it! Welding isn't that hard (I've been doing it for 55 years...dad taught me when I was 11) and can be learned in adult education classes at most any trade school. Having the equipment and skill at hand frees you up to do so many projects that get put off because you "have to find a weldor".

Song, you have demonstrated an ability to learn skills far beyond most of us, and your perseverance is an inspiration. Although there are many great project threads here, you've done an exemplary job of documenting each step of your work with clear photos and text that describes your work step-by-step. THANK YOU! Keep it up! =D>
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'87 325is "Odette"; '93 325is "Elvira"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"

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Re: Installing Ed's Fix

Post by songzunhuang » Thu Nov 16, 2017 4:10 pm

hornhospital wrote:
Thu Nov 16, 2017 7:49 am
songzunhuang wrote:
Thu Nov 16, 2017 6:34 am
Man, almost made me go buy welding equipment.
You should seriously consider it! Welding isn't that hard (I've been doing it for 55 years...dad taught me when I was 11) and can be learned in adult education classes at most any trade school. Having the equipment and skill at hand frees you up to do so many projects that get put off because you "have to find a weldor".

Song, you have demonstrated an ability to learn skills far beyond most of us, and your perseverance is an inspiration. Although there are many great project threads here, you've done an exemplary job of documenting each step of your work with clear photos and text that describes your work step-by-step. THANK YOU! Keep it up! =D>
Well, the body shop visit is now put on hold due to wicked rain this morning. Theres an "atmospheric river" over Northern California and the body shop owner says that he doesn't have room today since he cannot move the cars outside into the rain. His shop is full. So I have a question: What kind of welding equipment would you recommend? I know I could learn to weld, no problem. It's just that I didn't have much need for it and thought it may be a waste to purchase and have it just sit in the garage.

Thanks for the encouragement. I had a moment of pause when you described "Sylvia" to me in the beginning, but then I'm always up for a challenge. So seriously, what kind of equipment would you say to look for to do chassis work? :-k
-----
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1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by hornhospital » Fri Nov 17, 2017 7:57 am

If you're thinking heavy framework welding, a stick welder is the easiest to learn and gives good results once you learn to get rid of the slag between passes. Expect to pay in the $250 range for the machine and supplies to get started.

For more versatility a GOOD, broad range MIG machine can do anything from Frame repairs to stitching fenders and floorboards. $600-$1000 for a good MIG machine and setup (tank of CO2, etc.)

My preferred machine is a TIG. Although I've used and still use stick and MIG, nothing beats the versatility of a good TIG setup. And you aren't limited to steel. You can weld aluminum, stainless steel, even exotics (monel, inconel, titanium, etc.) It takes more practice, especially for aluminum, but you can do amazing things with a TIG gun if you practice. My first TIG project was a "get it right or walk home" one. I was changing the thermostat on my pickup at lunch at work, and broke the cast aluminum housing. We had just gotten a nice new Miller TIG machine, sooooo, I fired it up and welded the housing back together. It was still on the truck, still not leaking 7 years later when I sold it. I'll admit I'd been welding for a long time before that, but never with a TIG. A little verbal coaching from a reactor certified welder friend of mine was all I needed to nail it, first try.
The TIG machine I have is a MIller Synchrowave 180 (now out of production, the Synchrowave 200 and 210 replaced it). When I bought it in 1999 it was a few dollars under $1700 with a supply of various rods, ceramic cones (for the TIG torch), a tank of Helium-Argon (best for aluminum casting welding, which is 95% of what I do) and Tungsten electrodes. The 210 is in the upper side of $2800 now. Yeah, yikes.
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'87 325is "Odette"; '93 325is "Elvira"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by raykoke » Fri Nov 17, 2017 5:10 pm

TIG welders are really versatile.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKWfW-MIRHc
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang » Fri Nov 17, 2017 6:55 pm

hornhospital wrote:
Fri Nov 17, 2017 7:57 am
If you're thinking heavy framework welding, a stick welder is the easiest to learn and gives good results once you learn to get rid of the slag between passes. Expect to pay in the $250 range for the machine and supplies to get started.

For more versatility a GOOD, broad range MIG machine can do anything from Frame repairs to stitching fenders and floorboards. $600-$1000 for a good MIG machine and setup (tank of CO2, etc.)

My preferred machine is a TIG. Although I've used and still use stick and MIG, nothing beats the versatility of a good TIG setup. And you aren't limited to steel. You can weld aluminum, stainless steel, even exotics (monel, inconel, titanium, etc.) It takes more practice, especially for aluminum, but you can do amazing things with a TIG gun if you practice. My first TIG project was a "get it right or walk home" one. I was changing the thermostat on my pickup at lunch at work, and broke the cast aluminum housing. We had just gotten a nice new Miller TIG machine, sooooo, I fired it up and welded the housing back together. It was still on the truck, still not leaking 7 years later when I sold it. I'll admit I'd been welding for a long time before that, but never with a TIG. A little verbal coaching from a reactor certified welder friend of mine was all I needed to nail it, first try.
The TIG machine I have is a MIller Synchrowave 180 (now out of production, the Synchrowave 200 and 210 replaced it). When I bought it in 1999 it was a few dollars under $1700 with a supply of various rods, ceramic cones (for the TIG torch), a tank of Helium-Argon (best for aluminum casting welding, which is 95% of what I do) and Tungsten electrodes. The 210 is in the upper side of $2800 now. Yeah, yikes.
Time to start the Xmas list.
I had the part welded by a body shop this morning. It looks like the weld will do the job, but it's not pretty. Not at all.
I think I need to learn to weld. :-k
-----
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1984 633CSi
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Secure but not pretty

Post by songzunhuang » Sat Nov 18, 2017 2:29 am

So I finally got my steering box fix permanently secured. As mentioned it is not pretty. I think I am going to spend some time this weekend filing it down and cleaning it up before I shoot it with paint.

Here's the underside of the steering box fix after I installed it 3 days ago.
Weld Before.png
Installation ready for welding.
Weld Before.png (1.47 MiB) Viewed 3352 times
I finally got a body shop guy to lay down some welds this morning. I was a bit surprised when he didn't put it up on a lift.
Welding.png
Guys under the car welding.
Welding.png (1.22 MiB) Viewed 3352 times
And here's the final product after he proclaimed it finished.
Weld after.png
Ugly but secure weld.
Weld after.png (1.24 MiB) Viewed 3352 times
I guess it's not going anywhere, but I am going to clean it up. It was tricky as it's an overhead weld. I feel like I should try to make it prettier in the future. I guess no one will see it since it's down below. Still, it's going to bug me.
-----
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1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by hornhospital » Sat Nov 18, 2017 7:27 am

Geez....my daughter could have done a better job than that. :roll: I don't blame you for being miffed.

He left stubs of MIG wire (or welding rod) stuck to it. That's amateur stuff there. Pretty obvious he didn't want to mess with it. And working under the car with nothing but that floor jack holding it! YIKES!
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'87 325is "Odette"; '93 325is "Elvira"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by olympia57 » Sat Nov 18, 2017 10:44 am

Oh Song I've got to chip in here and say that that welding is woefull, it's far below the standard of work you've done on the car. There should be a fillet of continous weld around the boss not a sequence of irregular poorly struck tacks.
There is no strength in that and it needs to be redone by a competant welder.
If you linish those tacks I'm sure they will part from the two parts.
I can say without fear of contradiction you would have done a better job yourself.....
Don
1981 635 series 1

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by sansouci » Sat Nov 18, 2017 1:02 pm

Just out of curiosity, did you seen the welding machine he was using? Based on that skill level, I would wonder about their body work too.

I'm looking for an entry level welding set up and Hornhospital may have the most experience on BC. If anyone else can make some specific recommendations, mostly oriented to body and frame work on the 6'er with some added capability for aluminum, please chime in.
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang » Sun Nov 19, 2017 9:51 pm

sansouci wrote:
Sat Nov 18, 2017 1:02 pm
Just out of curiosity, did you seen the welding machine he was using? Based on that skill level, I would wonder about their body work too.

I'm looking for an entry level welding set up and Hornhospital may have the most experience on BC. If anyone else can make some specific recommendations, mostly oriented to body and frame work on the 6'er with some added capability for aluminum, please chime in.
Yea, I get the feeling he wasn’t trying too hard. As for the welding equipment, it was a Miller unit on a cart. It seemed like a good setup.

When I have time, I’ll get this redone. Like you all, I wasn’t thrilled with what I saw. I didn’t really see it before I left the shop. It wasn’t until late the next day that I got under there.

For now, I filed it down a bit and shot some engine paint to reduce rust forming. I’ll deal with this again later.
-----
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1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Make it pretty!

Post by songzunhuang » Mon Nov 20, 2017 7:24 am

OK, now you have seen the wicked bad welding job that my car has been subjected to. Well, I wanted to make it look a bit better, even though it's on the bottom of the car. So I crawled under there, filed it down a bit and shot it with some engine paint. It's looks a bit less bad with paint. Haha.
Painted.png
Bad weld painted.
Painted.png (1.16 MiB) Viewed 3277 times
Of course, since I was under the car, I started to clean stuff under the car. I bet I am not the only one who likes the underside of their car clean! Heck, I saw one picture of the underside of someone's car on this forum that looked like he waxed it!
Undercar.JPG
Underside of the car more clean than it's ever been!
Undercar.JPG (130.06 KiB) Viewed 3277 times
Of course everyone in my family thinks I have a screw loose in my head. I'll have to get support from people on this forum. :D
-----
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Re: Make it pretty!

Post by ron » Mon Nov 20, 2017 7:36 am

songzunhuang wrote:
Mon Nov 20, 2017 7:24 am
.....I saw one picture of the underside of someone's car on this forum that looked like he waxed it!
This one?
Attachments
6-5 006.jpg
6-5 006.jpg (882.67 KiB) Viewed 3275 times
They are ALWAYS rustier than you thought!!!!!!
'85 M #228
'87 M #367
'88 High line.
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by dwcains » Mon Nov 20, 2017 1:27 pm

songzunhuang wrote:
Sun Nov 19, 2017 9:51 pm
sansouci wrote:
Sat Nov 18, 2017 1:02 pm
Just out of curiosity, did you seen the welding machine he was using? Based on that skill level, I would wonder about their body work too.

I'm looking for an entry level welding set up and Hornhospital may have the most experience on BC. If anyone else can make some specific recommendations, mostly oriented to body and frame work on the 6'er with some added capability for aluminum, please chime in.
Yea, I get the feeling he wasn’t trying too hard. As for the welding equipment, it was a Miller unit on a cart. It seemed like a good setup.

When I have time, I’ll get this redone. Like you all, I wasn’t thrilled with what I saw. I didn’t really see it before I left the shop. It wasn’t until late the next day that I got under there.

For now, I filed it down a bit and shot some engine paint to reduce rust forming. I’ll deal with this again later.
A lot of guys who work on cars think if you can't see it, what it looks like doesn't matter. We know better.
Dean
Lutz, FL

'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by hornhospital » Mon Nov 20, 2017 3:52 pm

songzunhuang wrote:
Sun Nov 19, 2017 9:51 pm

Yea, I get the feeling he wasn’t trying too hard. As for the welding equipment, it was a Miller unit on a cart. It seemed like a good setup.
Considering it was a body shop guy that welded it, I'm pretty sure he still had the machine set for thin sheet metal. It looks like a MIG weld set on "stitch", where it pulses the wire out a little at a time, then withdraws, then pushes another bit of it out. It's to keep the thin metal from getting too hot in one spot and warping. Not a concern on the frame member and brace. Should have turned the heat (amps) up.
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'87 325is "Odette"; '93 325is "Elvira"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by sharkade » Thu Nov 23, 2017 5:53 pm

Reminds me of why i got into welding. You should put that pic up on the shops google maps page. you need to find you a reputable shop with a welder that can get it done. The top should also get a bead for added strength and peace of mind.
series1 633
ill fig it out myself

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Dash Crack Fix? Sugru.

Post by songzunhuang » Fri Nov 24, 2017 11:51 pm

I know there's been a lot of folks who have tried various things to repair cracked dashboards. This my attempt using a product called Sugru.It's a moldable glue. It has the consistency of gum and it's supposed to harden to a flexible rubber. What have I got to lose?

First I taped up the main crack in the dash and then started to fill it up. I rolled the Sugru into long wormlike things and jammed it into the crack.
I learned later that taping is really not necessary.
IMG_4670.JPG
Taped up and beginning to fill.
IMG_4670.JPG (168.86 KiB) Viewed 3082 times
After I filled it all up, I removed the tape and here's what I had. It was a bit of a hump and I decided to blend it better.
IMG_4674.JPG
Tape off, but really easy to see the filler.
IMG_4674.JPG (196.81 KiB) Viewed 3082 times
I actually used a knife and scraped off most of the material and blended it with my finger. I got it to a point where it looked pretty good. I'm going to leave this and see how it does.
IMG_4678.JPG
Finished filled crack for now. I'll see how it looks when hardened.
IMG_4678.JPG (232.92 KiB) Viewed 3082 times
I had material left over so I filled a bunch of various other cracks as well. Several hairline cracks at the rear have been filled in this picture. I'll report back on how it all holds up in a week.
-----
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Re: Make it pretty!

Post by sansouci » Sat Nov 25, 2017 12:37 am

songzunhuang wrote:
Mon Nov 20, 2017 7:24 am
OK, now you have seen the wicked bad welding job that my car has been subjected to. Well, I wanted to make it look a bit better, even though it's on the bottom of the car. So I crawled under there, filed it down a bit and shot it with some engine paint. It's looks a bit less bad with paint. Haha.
Painted.png

Of course, since I was under the car, I started to clean stuff under the car. I bet I am not the only one who likes the underside of their car clean! Heck, I saw one picture of the underside of someone's car on this forum that looked like he waxed it!
Undercar.JPG

:D
Hey Song,
Looking at that pic, is something else coming loose? The bracket that holds the pivot arm?
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)

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Re: Make it pretty!

Post by songzunhuang » Thu Nov 30, 2017 6:51 pm

sansouci wrote:
Sat Nov 25, 2017 12:37 am
songzunhuang wrote:
Mon Nov 20, 2017 7:24 am
OK, now you have seen the wicked bad welding job that my car has been subjected to. Well, I wanted to make it look a bit better, even though it's on the bottom of the car. So I crawled under there, filed it down a bit and shot it with some engine paint. It's looks a bit less bad with paint. Haha.
Painted.png

Of course, since I was under the car, I started to clean stuff under the car. I bet I am not the only one who likes the underside of their car clean! Heck, I saw one picture of the underside of someone's car on this forum that looked like he waxed it!
Undercar.JPG

:D
Hey Song,
Looking at that pic, is something else coming loose? The bracket that holds the pivot arm?
I did check under the car and I don't think anything else is coming loose. Still, I will remain vigilant.
-----
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1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Crazy rattling sound under car

Post by songzunhuang » Thu Nov 30, 2017 7:03 pm

I noticed that my car was making a racket. I started the car and walked all around looking for the culprit, all the while hearing the squeaking, rattling sound. I then got a stick and started poking things under the car to see if the sound was coming from below. Turns out, it was in the exhaust system. I decided that I needed to get under the car. I don't have a lift, so I used a Rhino ramp in the opposite way most people use it. I backed up the ramp to lift the rear.
IMG_4730.jpg
The rear of the car on a Rhino ramp.
IMG_4730.jpg (145.14 KiB) Viewed 2942 times
Slowly I started tapping areas of the car to locate the culprit. My exhaust is working well, but it's not too pretty. It was good to see that there wasn't serious rust or anything at the back of the car.
IMG_4734.jpg
Pretty clean at the back of the car. No alarming issues.
IMG_4734.jpg (126.26 KiB) Viewed 2942 times
Here's another view. Looks like the muffler has bottomed out on something before.
IMG_4732.JPG
wider view of the exhaust system. Looks like it's been bottomed out before.
IMG_4732.JPG (137.15 KiB) Viewed 2939 times
My poking around paid off. It turns out that the grass fire shield (I think that's what REALOEM calls it) has a loose screw that made a surprising racket. The solution was to simply tighten the screw. I love easy solutions.
IMG_4733.jpg
Small screw, big racket. Tightening was the solution.
IMG_4733.jpg (136.29 KiB) Viewed 2942 times
I didn't realize that there were so many shields on the bottom of the car! I don't think the aftermarket "upgrades" have these shields or accommodations for them. In California where wildfires are a big deal, I wonder if going to an upgrade and the lack of shields would be a good idea. I ponder this as I think my exhaust could use a refresh in the near future.
-----
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1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by hornhospital » Thu Nov 30, 2017 8:18 pm

A screw loose and makes a lot of racket. Sounds like my wife describing me....
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'87 325is "Odette"; '93 325is "Elvira"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by raykoke » Fri Dec 01, 2017 12:25 am

hornhospital wrote:
Thu Nov 30, 2017 8:18 pm
A screw loose and makes a lot of racket. Sounds like my wife describing me....
Not only your wife, ken.

:D

Song, invest in some exhaust rubber doughnuts soon.

Cheers,

Ray
'85 ///M635

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang » Sat Dec 02, 2017 3:30 am

hornhospital wrote:
Thu Nov 30, 2017 8:18 pm
A screw loose and makes a lot of racket. Sounds like my wife describing me....
Your wife and mine think alike. Sometimes I even think she may be right.
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Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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