Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039

[tschultz]

Great progress on your car!

[Spasso]

Thanks Tom
Hopefully assembly on the head begins Monday

[Spasso]

My brother wants to know the spec requirements for the valve springs AFTER installation so he can shim if necessary.
Oddly the info is not in my Bentley manual, everything about the head but spring info.

Part number for the spring is 11-34-1-276-504
He is mainly interested in the following:

- Installed height
- Spring pressure with valve closed
- Spring pressure with valve open
- Coil bind dimension
He is interested in hard numbers which I suspect are probably only found in a BMW shop manual/data base.

[jps635]

Can't help on the spring height but couple questions.

What paint did you use for the sump?

Please let me know what head gasket part # you use, plus brand and how well this lines up with the holes in the head

Thanks

[Spasso]

Can't help on the spring height but couple questions.

What paint did you use for the sump?

Please let me know what head gasket part # you use, plus brand and how well this lines up with the holes in the head

Thanks

- For paint, I'll have to check the brand when I get home (Duplicolor?) but it was ceramic, rated to 500 degrees. Bought it at O'Reilly's.
- Head gasket, I took the part number off RealOEM for my VIN #, 11-12-1-730-226 which is standard thickness, 1.72 mm.
- The head mating surface only required .004 machining to clean up (and it was a thick head to begin with).
- Head gasket brand is Elring and I can't say how the holes line up yet. The head is still off.

[Spasso]

My brother wants to know the spec requirements for the valve springs AFTER installation so he can shim if necessary.
Oddly the info is not in my Bentley manual, everything about the head but spring info.

Part number for the spring is 11-34-1-276-504
He is mainly interested in the following:

- Installed height
- Spring pressure with valve closed
- Spring pressure with valve open
- Coil bind dimension
He is interested in hard numbers which I suspect are probably only found in a BMW shop manual/data base.

The question is moot at this point.
I've checked all of the available manuals online and they have nothing on valve springs.

The valves are installed.
All new springs were measured with some very slight variations in height found.
Valve stem heights measured and the springs installed accordingly to match.
-( All new intake valves and the exhaust valves reground).
Spring pressures were tested at open and closed positions and my brother decided that he wanted to bring the pressures up a little so he shimmed all the springs .030".
He estimates that the machine work on the seats and valves took up to .015" from new specs so the net gain on the shims is closer to .015".

So, the final numbers for spring pressures are 56 to 58 lbs closed and close to 122 lbs open. (in case somebody wants to check theirs before disassembly to get a baseline).

[Spasso]

What paint did you use for the sump?

Thanks

Duplicolor enamel,
DE 1615 Aluminum,
ceramic, 500 degree f.

[Spasso]

New belts and pulleys installed.

[Spasso]

Intake manifold glass-beaded and clear-coated with Duplicolor CLEAR DE1636, Ceramic, 500f degrees.
All of the aluminum bits have been glass beaded and clear-coated.

[Spasso]

Now on to the head.
All new intake valves.
Regrind exhaust valves.
Machine seats.
New valve guides

[Spasso]

Intake has been installed on the head before installation on the car, much easier to accurately torque the lower nuts on the manifold.
New exhaust studs.
All new intake and exhaust manifold nuts.

On the top side of the head:
New cam, stock specs (264 degree)
New cam followers.
New eccentrics and pivot bolts/nuts.
New rocker shaft snap rings for each follower.
New valve springs, shimmed .030". All pressures tested open and closed.

[Spasso]

All of the injectors were sent to "Dr.Injector" for refurbishment and flow matching.
Cold start injector was also rebuilt.
Pintle caps
Filter baskets
Top and bottom 'O' rings
Spacers

Voltage test, ohms 16.1 to 16.3
Pretest flow rate, 93 ML
Test after refurb, 101 ML
Gains of 9 to 10% with improved spray pattern

[Spasso]

Spring tester

[Spasso]

Exhaust manifolds and heat shield installations.
- Exhaust manifolds were hot-tanked for a couple of days and then glass-beaded.
- New copper-plate nuts used on new studs.
- New OEM metal Heat shields.
- Correct manifold gaskets with integral plug-wire heat shield that goes between the metal heat shields and bottom of the plug wires.
- All pre-installed before the head goes on.
- Valves have been pre-adjusted before head installation.
- After 1200 miles they will be readjusted as needed and the head bolts retorqued.

[Spasso]

Please let me know what head gasket part # you use, plus brand and how well this lines up with the holes in the head

Thanks

Head gasket,
I took the part number off RealOEM for my VIN ,
P/N 11-12-1-730-226-M30,
Standard thickness, 1.72 mm.
The brand is Elring Klinger.
- THE HOLES LINED UP PERFECTLY.
My brother says that head gaskets that aren't in sealed packages and spend a long time on the shelf tend to shrink or distort from exposure.

[Spasso]

Ran it for the first time today.
Cam break in for 20 minutes and then shut her down to reset the idle/ throttle switch.

Took it out to seat the rings (chrome).
Ran it up and down a steep hill that was about a half mile long, doing hard pulls from 1500 to 3500 repeatedly, going up the hill and repeated hard de-accelerations going down.
I did this three times in both directions and was pleased to see the temp gauge holding steady at about 1/3 up from zero.

I was happy to see the brakes working properly now that the accumulator has been replaced.

Also, when I bought the car I wasn't getting much heat out of the heater.
As mentioned in a previous post, globs of silicone were removed from the valve body and the mono-valve was replaced .
Scorching hot now...

The old head gasket in general was failing in numerous areas and showed signs of coolant incursion into one or more cylinders.

It's obvious that the head has been off the car before.
All of the heat shields were missing and wrong exhaust gaskets were used.
Some of the intake nuts where loose or missing upon disassembly and there were signs that the those cylinders were running lean because of it.

There were globs of black silicone everywhere inside the engine from amateur repairs to the cooling system.

It's nice to have this thing back together in top condition.
It's delivering pretty nice power.

I'm going to have to do something with this slush box though.
It's starting to give up.

[dwcains]

Nice work. I've never seen those exhaust manifold shields before before on any E24. Can't find it on realoem.com, either.

[Spasso]

Nice work. I've never seen those exhaust manifold shields before before on any E24. Can't find it on realoem.com, either.

Thanks Dean,
It took me a while to find them.

This is the page with the gaskets and the metal heat shields that are on my car now, searched using my VIN:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=11_1009

Gasket part number, Item 4, two each, 11621723656
Metal Heat shields, Item 11, two each, 11621257097
****
Here are the parts cross-references,

11621723656
GASKET W/HEAT PROT.SHIELD ASBESTOSFREE
Supersedes:

11621285240
(09/01/1982 — 08/04/1994), Exchangeable retrospectively
11621707445
(10/01/1984 — 05/08/1985)

Part 11621723656 was found on the following vehicles:

5' E28   (09/1980 — 12/1987)
5' E34   (03/1987 — 04/1993)
6' E24   (09/1977 — 04/1989)
7' E23   (07/1977 — 06/1986)
7' E32   (10/1985 — 03/1994)
******************************************************

11621257097
Covering plate (Metal Heat Shields)

From:
12/23/1975

Supersedes:

11621258982
(10/10/1972 — 11/24/2009)

Part 11621257097 was found on the following vehicles:

5' E12   (06/1973 — 07/1981)
5' E28   (09/1980 — 12/1987)
2.5CS-3.0CSL   (12/1968 — 11/1975)
6' E24   (10/1975 — 04/1989)
2500-3.3Li   (08/1968 — 02/1977)
7' E23   (10/1976 — 06/1986)

[Spasso]

I was going to add that even though individual exhaust gaskets appear on the same page as above, http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=11_1009 as Item 3, they don't appear in the parts list below which would indicate that they were not effective for this VIN.
- The same goes for the other heat shield shown, Item 10. It too does not appear in the parts list.

[dwcains]

Thanks for posting those links. Just checked, and my car's manifolds do have the bolt holes, but I'm wondering if they're not too rusted to use. I'll have to find a few bolts and check.

[Spasso]

The correct bolts are also on that page. They are the copper plated type.
If you can get in there, a bottoming tap should do the trick on those holes.
Flush out with penetrating oil etc.

[Spasso]

All of the oil passages in the block were flushed clean before re-assembly.
I used Brad Penn 20-50, Semi-synthetic, #009-7119 with an additional two/ 4.oz bottles of ZDDPlus additive. (http://www.zddplus.com).
No catalytic converters on this engine so no issues there.
I'll change it out for fresh in a 100 or so miles to make sure everything stays clean and then run it for a few of thousand.

[Spasso]

Before I did any serious driving I decided to put a Race Skid on the car.
There are just too many mine fields out there to risk my oil pan.
http://WWW.Raceskids.com
They are a few hundred miles south of me so I ordered one up and had it in 3 days.

It mic'd out at .145 inch thick/ (5/16) plate steel.
Very rigid (and heavy).

Before I could install it I had to repair/re-position the tow pylon that is below the subframe behind the air dam on the RH side.
The right and left pylons are the forward attach points.

This one was used to pull the car from the ditch at some point and/or took a hard hit, it was over stressed to the point that it folded forward and upwards about 1.5 inches.
The webs were wrinkled and stretched badly so I had to rig up a method of applying downward tension on the pylon while heating the the inboard and outboard webs.

I thought about blocking the frame and using a come-along to pull down on the pylon but I had no anchor point far enough below.
The solution was to chain the tow loop on the pylon to a cross member on the lift 8 inches below and hang a slide hammer from the center of the pylon for fine tuning.
From there I placed a jack screw from the floor up to the forward subframe just ahead of the pylon.
I raised the car with the jack screw which caused the chain to pull down on the pylon.
After applying tension I heated up the inboard and outboard webs and continued to increase tension.

The metal was so bent up that I used a ball peen hammer and a drift to bend them back into shape.
I had to grab some of the flanges with channel locks and at other times used a flat bar or crow bar.
I went at it for about 40 minutes before deciding that it wasn't going to get any better without cutting it off the car and welding in a new one.
I used a tape measure to set the spread to the other pylon and elevation to subframe.

The end result isn't pretty but it is functional for mounting the skid plate though I am sure if it was used to pull the car it would fail.

Bad pylon below

[Spasso]

For comparison

[Spasso]

Foil packed in around transmission cooler lines, radiator hose and drain cock ect.
Garden hose and ABC Extinguisher handy before firing up the Oxy/Acetaline torch

The jack screw, chain and slide hammer.
Apply upwards tension with jack screw to tighten chain between cross member and pylon.
Apply heat and slide hammer plus ball peen hammer and drift to web sides as required.
Keep maintaining tension as the pylon is drawn down.
Measure spread and elevation.
Adjust with 4 lb sledge hammer.