Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
Paint
Still a bit bent but located correctly.
- Attachments
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- Bad Pylon- Painted Side (Small).JPG (123.18 KiB) Viewed 13042 times
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- Bad Pylon- Painted Aft (Small).JPG (137.96 KiB) Viewed 13042 times
Install The Skid
Nut plates go inside the two front pylons.
- Support skid with the jack screw and start the two forward bolts.
** NOTE: The 3/8's bolts supplied come with lock washers but the slots are too big and you need to back up the lock washers with larger flat washers.
- The two aft nut plates have heavy wire welded to them so you can insert them inside the rear cross member.
- Start the two aft bolts and adjust the skid plate as needed.
**NOTE: The instructions say to cut of the remainder of the nut plate wires when finished.
I left them on and pushed them up into the cross member for later use when the skid has to come back off.
I left a little loop hanging out so I could fish the nut plates later.
- Support skid with the jack screw and start the two forward bolts.
** NOTE: The 3/8's bolts supplied come with lock washers but the slots are too big and you need to back up the lock washers with larger flat washers.
- The two aft nut plates have heavy wire welded to them so you can insert them inside the rear cross member.
- Start the two aft bolts and adjust the skid plate as needed.
**NOTE: The instructions say to cut of the remainder of the nut plate wires when finished.
I left them on and pushed them up into the cross member for later use when the skid has to come back off.
I left a little loop hanging out so I could fish the nut plates later.
- Attachments
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- Installed Skid- Bottom (Small).JPG (87.36 KiB) Viewed 13042 times
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- Installed Skid- Front (Small).JPG (84.76 KiB) Viewed 13042 times
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- Installed Skid- Oil Plug (Small).JPG (66.08 KiB) Viewed 13042 times
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- Installed Skid and Wire (Small).JPG (116.59 KiB) Viewed 13042 times
CLEARANCE TO THE PAN AND ROAD
The clearance between the front of the oil pan and the inside of the skid is 1.00 inch.
The skid continues forward and downwards slightly before kicking up to the pylon mounts. (See picture below)
This actually DECREASES clearance because the kick-up in the skid is forward of the axle center line.
I went to back the car off the lift and the forward kick-up of the skid plate hit the aft end of the lift ramp.
I also bottomed the skid plate when I came off of a speed bump a little too fast.
It didn't hurt the car (or oil pan) but it does make quite a racket.
** Keep in mind that my car is lowered more than most.
On a car with standard springs or even some H & R springs (1.5" drop?) I don't think bottoming would be as much of a problem.
This is something you'll have to figure out for yourself.
This skid could be reconfigured and re-drilled if you can find somebody with a big enough brake to bend it.
For now I'll stick with what I have. I'll just have to be a little more careful.
The skid continues forward and downwards slightly before kicking up to the pylon mounts. (See picture below)
This actually DECREASES clearance because the kick-up in the skid is forward of the axle center line.
I went to back the car off the lift and the forward kick-up of the skid plate hit the aft end of the lift ramp.
I also bottomed the skid plate when I came off of a speed bump a little too fast.
It didn't hurt the car (or oil pan) but it does make quite a racket.
** Keep in mind that my car is lowered more than most.
On a car with standard springs or even some H & R springs (1.5" drop?) I don't think bottoming would be as much of a problem.
This is something you'll have to figure out for yourself.
This skid could be reconfigured and re-drilled if you can find somebody with a big enough brake to bend it.
For now I'll stick with what I have. I'll just have to be a little more careful.
- Attachments
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- Skid Plate- Side View 1 (Small).JPG (124.11 KiB) Viewed 13042 times
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- Installed Skid- Front Angle (Small).JPG (87.78 KiB) Viewed 13042 times
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
That's some serious blacksmithing work - nice.
Dean
Lutz, FL
'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z
Lutz, FL
'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Thanks.dwcains wrote:That's some serious blacksmithing work - nice.
The metal was so stretched out that there was no way to get it all straight.
Drove it to work today to get some miles on the break-in oil.
I'll change that out this weekend after I get 100 or so miles on it.
The gearing is really tall, high gear, 65 MPH = 1800 RPM.
It would be nice if I could get that with the 5-speed manual.
First Oil Change
Finally got a chance to change the break-in oil.
A total of 131 miles.
Very clean coming out, no nuts or bolts, metal shavings or anything in the pan..
A total of 131 miles.
Very clean coming out, no nuts or bolts, metal shavings or anything in the pan..
Skid Plate Mod
After driving this thing for the first hundred miles I found that the configuration of the skid plate just didn't work with how low this car sat.
I don't imagine it would be that great on a real race car because it hit EVERYTHING.
Pine cones, small rodents, cigarette butts, joints in the pavement and anytime the suspension was compressed even slightly.
The bend (kick-up) in the skid was too far forward and too low.
While I was doing the oil change I decided that the plate was not going back on until I got my clearance back.
I decided to flatten the original kick-up and make a new one about 4.5 inches aft, about even with the front of the pan.
Using the floor, some extruded steel channel to support the skid at key points and my Oxy/Acetylene torch, I used the ramp on my four post lift and the weight of the car to act as a brake to flatten the original kick-up.
This is 5/16 plate steel and it did not want to bend, even with heat. After most of the bend was taken out I placed what was left on a steel bench top and finished the job with more heat and my trusty 4 lb hammer.
It isn't perfect but after all, it is a skid plate.
Back to the floor, the torch and the ramp on my lift, I made a new kick up but with more of a gradual bend than a sharp fold like the original.
I had to change the forward slots to a 'T' shape to pick up the holes.
I also had to flatten the forward flange so it would sit correctly on the forward pylons.
I sanded it out with the DA and sprayed some fresh paint on it.
Now the lowest point of the skid is even with the forward axle line and I still have almost an inch of clearance at the front of the pan..
I don't imagine it would be that great on a real race car because it hit EVERYTHING.
Pine cones, small rodents, cigarette butts, joints in the pavement and anytime the suspension was compressed even slightly.
The bend (kick-up) in the skid was too far forward and too low.
While I was doing the oil change I decided that the plate was not going back on until I got my clearance back.
I decided to flatten the original kick-up and make a new one about 4.5 inches aft, about even with the front of the pan.
Using the floor, some extruded steel channel to support the skid at key points and my Oxy/Acetylene torch, I used the ramp on my four post lift and the weight of the car to act as a brake to flatten the original kick-up.
This is 5/16 plate steel and it did not want to bend, even with heat. After most of the bend was taken out I placed what was left on a steel bench top and finished the job with more heat and my trusty 4 lb hammer.
It isn't perfect but after all, it is a skid plate.
Back to the floor, the torch and the ramp on my lift, I made a new kick up but with more of a gradual bend than a sharp fold like the original.
I had to change the forward slots to a 'T' shape to pick up the holes.
I also had to flatten the forward flange so it would sit correctly on the forward pylons.
I sanded it out with the DA and sprayed some fresh paint on it.
Now the lowest point of the skid is even with the forward axle line and I still have almost an inch of clearance at the front of the pan..
- Attachments
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- Top View (Small).JPG (104.51 KiB) Viewed 12980 times
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- Top View (Small) (2).JPG (97.88 KiB) Viewed 12980 times
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- New Curvature 1.JPG (63.14 KiB) Viewed 12980 times
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- New Curvature 2.JPG (70.66 KiB) Viewed 12980 times
Last edited by Spasso on Mon Aug 01, 2016 3:59 am, edited 3 times in total.
Profile Comparison
Old Profile, top picture.
New profile, bottom picture.
NOTE: The shot was from the forward side of the tire so the new kick-up looks like it is under the middle of the pan. It is actually closer to the front of the pan.
New profile, bottom picture.
NOTE: The shot was from the forward side of the tire so the new kick-up looks like it is under the middle of the pan. It is actually closer to the front of the pan.
- Attachments
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- Skid Plate- Side View 1 (Small).JPG (124.11 KiB) Viewed 12980 times
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- Side 2 (Small) (2).JPG (110.67 KiB) Viewed 12980 times
Final Installation of Revised Skid Plate
...
- Attachments
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- Exposed Pan (Small).JPG (83.78 KiB) Viewed 12980 times
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- Covered Pan (Small).JPG (98.86 KiB) Viewed 12980 times
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- Installed Quarter View (Small).JPG (81.16 KiB) Viewed 12980 times
More driving
I drove 80 miles today and didn't hit one thing with the skid plate.
I think it will work now, and knowing how hard it was to bend, I think the pan will be well protected.
I think it will work now, and knowing how hard it was to bend, I think the pan will be well protected.
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
A sunp guard is somethingI should probably consider, too, a my car is lowered on BavAuto sport springs and HD Bilsteins. I wouldn't drive one my Alfa's without one, as they've also got vulnerable alloy oil pans:
Of course, the Italian version of any car part is always more comlex and elegant.
Of course, the Italian version of any car part is always more comlex and elegant.
Dean
Lutz, FL
'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z
Lutz, FL
'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
You've done a great job with your engine build, tremendous attention to detail. Am following a similar course and will be referencing this. On the head gasket again, your engine is a B34 euro - correct?
'85 635csi JPS (RA2-66)
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Beautiful undercarriage Dean.dwcains wrote:A sunp guard is somethingI should probably consider, too, a my car is lowered on BavAuto sport springs and HD Bilsteins. I wouldn't drive one my Alfa's without one, as they've also got vulnerable alloy oil pans:
Of course, the Italian version of any car part is always more complex and elegant.
I too have an Italian that slumbers while I work on this German stuff.
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Thanks. I owe the quality of the engine build to my brother. Like him, I couldn't see putting this engine back together without replacing all parts that we did.jps635 wrote:You've done a great job with your engine build, tremendous attention to detail. Am following a similar course and will be referencing this. On the head gasket again, your engine is a B34 euro - correct?
Ideally new pistons would have been nice but the condition and dimensions of the cylinder bores and pistons was so good we stuck with what we had.
* The engine is a EURO M30-B34 according to the build date of 11/84. * The head gasket fit perfectly.
I drove it today 100 miles in 80+ heat, stop and go plus highway miles, ran it through the gears a lot.
The gauge climbed "almost" to center but most of the time stayed at 1/3 up.
I will be starting to drive it to work daily which will put 3 to 400 miles a week on it.
The head will be re-torqued at 1200 miles and valve clearances checked.
During that time I will refinish the cam cover. I spaced it out during the build and doesn't look all that great.
Top coat with the same Duplicolor High Heat silver used on the oil pan plus the Duplicolor clear as mentioned earlier in the thread.
Last edited by Spasso on Wed Aug 03, 2016 2:28 am, edited 2 times in total.
Snake Oil
I mentioned that the automatic in this car was showing signs of age, mostly with a sketchy/delayed shift between 1st and 2nd.
I'm not one for snake oil treatments but I've used this stuff in the past and it has helped on occasion.
I drained a couple of quarts of fluid out and replaced with 2 quarts of Lucas "Transmission Fix".
The shifts have tightened up and under hard acceleration it kicks pretty good.
The results were so good that I don't think I'll have to visit the 5-speed conversion until next year.
Weeee'lll seeee.
I'm not one for snake oil treatments but I've used this stuff in the past and it has helped on occasion.
I drained a couple of quarts of fluid out and replaced with 2 quarts of Lucas "Transmission Fix".
The shifts have tightened up and under hard acceleration it kicks pretty good.
The results were so good that I don't think I'll have to visit the 5-speed conversion until next year.
Weeee'lll seeee.
500 miles
Currently have a little more than 500 miles on the engine so far.
I pulled the valve cover last weekend for refinishing and to re-torque the head.
I got very slight movement out of three bolts between cylinders 3 and 4 and 4 and 5.
Valve clearances remain steady at .012 cold so far.
Everything is nice and clean and the cam appears to be wearing in nicely.
I pulled the valve cover last weekend for refinishing and to re-torque the head.
I got very slight movement out of three bolts between cylinders 3 and 4 and 4 and 5.
Valve clearances remain steady at .012 cold so far.
Everything is nice and clean and the cam appears to be wearing in nicely.
- Attachments
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- 500 miles (Medium).JPG (205.33 KiB) Viewed 12876 times
Valve Cover Refurb
Valve cover refurb.
Duplicolor DE 1615 High heat Aluminum
Duplicolor DE 1636 High Heat Clear
Duplicolor DE 1615 High heat Aluminum
Duplicolor DE 1636 High Heat Clear
- Attachments
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- Valve Cover Prep (Medium).JPG (218.97 KiB) Viewed 12875 times
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- Valve Cover 3 (Medium).JPG (182.9 KiB) Viewed 12875 times
Last edited by Spasso on Wed Aug 10, 2016 10:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Blower Cowl Repaint
One of my pet peeves is seeing the heater blower cover on various cars with both ends weathered and rusty.
Stripped and painted with high gloss black.
I should have used satin black but didn't have enough to do the job.
The gloss will weather better.
Stripped and painted with high gloss black.
I should have used satin black but didn't have enough to do the job.
The gloss will weather better.
- Attachments
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- Blower Cowl 1 (Medium).JPG (192.91 KiB) Viewed 12874 times
Last edited by Spasso on Wed Aug 10, 2016 6:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Coolant Tank
The coolant level sensor wasn't working and I had my suspicions that the pressure cap was venting early so I replaced both plus a new expansion tank.
- Attachments
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- Coolant Tank, Sensor, Cap (Medium).JPG (177.85 KiB) Viewed 12876 times
Last edited by Spasso on Wed Aug 10, 2016 6:11 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Air Filter Housing
Another thing I see often is the top of the air filter housing dished in from people leaning on it.
I dollied out all the dents from the inside the best I could and painted with satin black.
I dollied out all the dents from the inside the best I could and painted with satin black.
- Attachments
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- Filter Housing (Medium).JPG (207.77 KiB) Viewed 12875 times
Engine Bay So Far
Engine Bay So Far
- Attachments
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- Engine Bay (Medium).JPG (214.12 KiB) Viewed 12874 times
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- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3710
- Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 3:24 pm
- Location: Gilroy (SF Bay Area) CA
Lookin' good Spasso!!!
I went the powder coating route on the blower cover, this was done at "least" 20 years ago
True, this car isn't exactly sitting outside, in the rain, and all that, but I do wonder how long paint will actually last
I do need to do my air box cover as well
True, this car isn't exactly sitting outside, in the rain, and all that, but I do wonder how long paint will actually last
I do need to do my air box cover as well
- Attachments
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- IMG_1010-sm.jpg (101.47 KiB) Viewed 12867 times
Bobbo
1980 633 CSi Cypress Green/Pearl Beige
2017 X5 M Sport Xdrive 35i Carbon Black/Ivory White
2005 330 Ci ZHP Cabrio Imola Red/Bone/Black
Re: Lookin' good Spasso!!!
Thanks!GRNSHRK wrote:I went the powder coating route on the blower cover, this was done at "least" 20 years ago
True, this car isn't exactly sitting outside, in the rain, and all that, but I do wonder how long paint will actually last
I do need to do my air box cover as well
Powder coating would be ideal for that blower cover.
Refinishing mine was kind of an after-thought at the end of the day Sunday and I thought, "What the hell, lets at least get some paint on it". I even found a strip of grey high density foam and glued onto the aft edge before re-installing.
This car is parked inside very night so it should last a good while.
When it's time to re-do I'll go with satin or semi-flat.
As far as the air box goes, I placed mine top-down on a bed sheet, folded into a big soft pad, and tapped the stiffener on the inside with my rubber dead blow until the top flattened out...and then hit it again a couple more times.
I finished up a couple of the smaller ones with the end of ball peen.
It still has a bunch of smaller dings in it I'll get to later.
- zinnocoupe
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2014 12:57 am
- Location: Vancouver BC
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
I just read your whole project start to finish! Nice work on the engine and everything else. So much detail here, I'm going have to reread a lot of the head details. I'm going have a lot to live up to on my build. I wish I had a brother Awesome