Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
So good news.
1) Things dried out over night and I sprayed all the plugs with QD Electronic Cleaner and compressed air.
Popping the throttle yielded only the slightest hesitation, but hardly none compared to last night.
* I took the rubber cover off last night for the housing on the Idle Position Switch and Throttle Position Sensor not sure which is which yet.
Today I notice that upon opening the throttle, a linkage tab raises a button on the white box for the (sensor?) until there is a distinctive click.
Once it clicks it revs quickly. Opening the the throttle slowly it revs slowly and smoothly until the click and then takes off.
* Would this indicate that I adjust the switch for earlier activation?
2) Looking around it doesn't appear that the O2 was ever plugged in since I've owned the car. Still can't find the matching wire. (in the glove box by the ECU?)
- So what is the down side of not having the correct ECU map due to an unplugged O2? This thing runs really good under power but the A/F is probably all over the board.
Thanks for the help.
Dana
1) Things dried out over night and I sprayed all the plugs with QD Electronic Cleaner and compressed air.
Popping the throttle yielded only the slightest hesitation, but hardly none compared to last night.
* I took the rubber cover off last night for the housing on the Idle Position Switch and Throttle Position Sensor not sure which is which yet.
Today I notice that upon opening the throttle, a linkage tab raises a button on the white box for the (sensor?) until there is a distinctive click.
Once it clicks it revs quickly. Opening the the throttle slowly it revs slowly and smoothly until the click and then takes off.
* Would this indicate that I adjust the switch for earlier activation?
2) Looking around it doesn't appear that the O2 was ever plugged in since I've owned the car. Still can't find the matching wire. (in the glove box by the ECU?)
- So what is the down side of not having the correct ECU map due to an unplugged O2? This thing runs really good under power but the A/F is probably all over the board.
Thanks for the help.
Dana
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Recall that the O2 sensor is not stock on euro models. It was a US federalization requirement. They may have added it, but not actually hooked it to anything to dummy the registration or import process...
Euro ECU does not use O2 sensor like US cars. The default map will run the car, and if you say it runs, good, nothing to worry about with actually hooking it up, IMO.
TPS from my thread:
Singal is sent to the ECU for Idle. When you hear the click, it is switched out of idle mode.
The other signal is wide-open throttle, when the map defaults to about 12:1 AFR for max power and a more rich condition to prevent detonation. The middle zone on US cars is O2 feedback, on a euro car, I'd suspect it;s a pre-determined map.
Euro ECU does not use O2 sensor like US cars. The default map will run the car, and if you say it runs, good, nothing to worry about with actually hooking it up, IMO.
TPS from my thread:
Singal is sent to the ECU for Idle. When you hear the click, it is switched out of idle mode.
The other signal is wide-open throttle, when the map defaults to about 12:1 AFR for max power and a more rich condition to prevent detonation. The middle zone on US cars is O2 feedback, on a euro car, I'd suspect it;s a pre-determined map.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Your comments about the O2 makes sense in this case. I don't remember seeing any at all on the 79 Euro I had.
I'll wire in an official plug and wire for it and run it through the firewall with a label on the other end, "Superfluous Federalization Feature"
Your diagram doesn't match what I have on the Throttle body but the functions serve the same from what I can tell.
If the problem persists I may try readjusting the "idle mode" switch to an earlier threshold.
I've only put about 5 miles on this car while I wait to put a good valve adjustment on it. (now that I've solved the massive oil leaks).
What this car needs is a good "Italian Tune-up"!
Right now it's backed onto the lift in preparation for new rear axles, rear pitman arms and rear sway bar links.
The rear boots have been split for god knows how long and I can only guess the condition of the CV joints.
* Oddly, my brakes have been working good lately. No hard pedal all the time, just intermittent. I have the new accumulator so I will put it on anyway but it makes me wonder...
I'll wire in an official plug and wire for it and run it through the firewall with a label on the other end, "Superfluous Federalization Feature"
Your diagram doesn't match what I have on the Throttle body but the functions serve the same from what I can tell.
If the problem persists I may try readjusting the "idle mode" switch to an earlier threshold.
I've only put about 5 miles on this car while I wait to put a good valve adjustment on it. (now that I've solved the massive oil leaks).
What this car needs is a good "Italian Tune-up"!
Right now it's backed onto the lift in preparation for new rear axles, rear pitman arms and rear sway bar links.
The rear boots have been split for god knows how long and I can only guess the condition of the CV joints.
* Oddly, my brakes have been working good lately. No hard pedal all the time, just intermittent. I have the new accumulator so I will put it on anyway but it makes me wonder...
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
I just did the rear suspension links (dog-bones?) and sway bar links tonight.
Waiting for new bolts so I can install the new axles. It looks like something got wrapped up back there and destroyed half of the existing bolts on both sides. I am suspicious that it was human caused........
I hope I can get them all out without having to pull the hubs off the car and get serious.
Waiting for new bolts so I can install the new axles. It looks like something got wrapped up back there and destroyed half of the existing bolts on both sides. I am suspicious that it was human caused........
I hope I can get them all out without having to pull the hubs off the car and get serious.
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Yeah, mine's a slow poke USA version with cats.Spasso wrote:This is on your 84 633? US spec?
My car doesn't even have Cats.
I see no orange plug or green wire anywhere.
I'll take another look.Thanks.
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
I have a healthy M106 Turbo that could fix that but shipment to New York would be stupid expensive
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Still waiting for bolts for the rear axles so I took the car out for a drive and tested all of the lighting functions.
I was a little worried when I pulled the parking lights on and one low beam light on the right side lit up a little.
The engine was off so I knew it wasn't part of the headlight circuit unless maybe something was shorted. (The lens has a hole in it)
When looking for some new H4 lights last night I ran across some with city lights.
Could this be what I am seeing?
I also notice an extra wire routed from the parking light to the low beam light rubber boot.
I assume the one on the left side is burned out.
( The last photo is of low beam headlights.)
I was a little worried when I pulled the parking lights on and one low beam light on the right side lit up a little.
The engine was off so I knew it wasn't part of the headlight circuit unless maybe something was shorted. (The lens has a hole in it)
When looking for some new H4 lights last night I ran across some with city lights.
Could this be what I am seeing?
I also notice an extra wire routed from the parking light to the low beam light rubber boot.
I assume the one on the left side is burned out.
( The last photo is of low beam headlights.)
- Attachments
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- City Light 2 (Small).JPG (93.42 KiB) Viewed 14107 times
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- City Light 1 (Small).JPG (102.9 KiB) Viewed 14107 times
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- Low Beam Lights (Small).JPG (102.07 KiB) Viewed 14107 times
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Testing the lights I also found that the single rear fog light (LR) worked as well as the under-hood light.
Just need to get the trunk light working now.
Just need to get the trunk light working now.
Rear Axles and New Muffler
Finally got some free time.
New axles, rear sway bar links and mini-dogbones (connector links).
The old boots were ripped and full of water and I didn't want to deal with trying to rebuild wasted CV joints.
I had to use a Dremal to open up some of the axle bolts because they were peened over in places.
It could have been a real PITA if any of the heads stripped out.
I installed all new OEM bolts.
Also had a new Gibson Performance Aluminized Superflow muffler installed.
I sourced some stainless tips from Summit Racing and mounted them with hidden stainless 5mm bolts. (No clamps)
Nice sound, much quieter inside.
New axles, rear sway bar links and mini-dogbones (connector links).
The old boots were ripped and full of water and I didn't want to deal with trying to rebuild wasted CV joints.
I had to use a Dremal to open up some of the axle bolts because they were peened over in places.
It could have been a real PITA if any of the heads stripped out.
I installed all new OEM bolts.
Also had a new Gibson Performance Aluminized Superflow muffler installed.
I sourced some stainless tips from Summit Racing and mounted them with hidden stainless 5mm bolts. (No clamps)
Nice sound, much quieter inside.
- Attachments
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- New Axle (Small).JPG (118.96 KiB) Viewed 13968 times
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- New Muffler With Tips (Small).JPG (91.86 KiB) Viewed 13968 times
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- Tips, Rear (Small).JPG (83.73 KiB) Viewed 13968 times
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- Fresh Wash RR (Small).JPG (108.5 KiB) Viewed 13968 times
Last edited by Spasso on Mon Jul 18, 2016 7:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Well, it looks like I lost the bet I had with myself that the valve noise was just an adjustment issue.
It was mostly, except for the intake lobe on #1 cylinder. It has lost about .020".
It looks like it was a victim of a loose spray bar so the head is coming off for a new cam, followers, eccentrics etc.
I'm going to have the valves, guides and seals done "as long as I'm in there".
.... and because the head is off I might as well do the timing set, chain, sprockets and guides.
.....and "as long as I'm in there" I might as well put in a new oil pump on along with the new motor mounts..........
....and I should do new hoses, clamps and water pump as long as the radiator is out........sigh.......
It was mostly, except for the intake lobe on #1 cylinder. It has lost about .020".
It looks like it was a victim of a loose spray bar so the head is coming off for a new cam, followers, eccentrics etc.
I'm going to have the valves, guides and seals done "as long as I'm in there".
.... and because the head is off I might as well do the timing set, chain, sprockets and guides.
.....and "as long as I'm in there" I might as well put in a new oil pump on along with the new motor mounts..........
....and I should do new hoses, clamps and water pump as long as the radiator is out........sigh.......
FLAT CAM LOBE
The head and pan are off.
The #1 intake lobe and follower were the worst I've seen.
- The head checks out good and flat. Virgin mating surface. It will get resurfaced anyway.
Three intake valve stems are showing wear so those will be replaced. Amazingly the exhaust valves are all good.
The head will be getting new guides, seals, cam, followers, eccentrics, bolts, nuts and of course a valve grind.
The cylinder bore on #1 mic's up at 92mm with no ridge.
Still pulling pistons to see what else lurks.
The #1 intake lobe and follower were the worst I've seen.
- The head checks out good and flat. Virgin mating surface. It will get resurfaced anyway.
Three intake valve stems are showing wear so those will be replaced. Amazingly the exhaust valves are all good.
The head will be getting new guides, seals, cam, followers, eccentrics, bolts, nuts and of course a valve grind.
The cylinder bore on #1 mic's up at 92mm with no ridge.
Still pulling pistons to see what else lurks.
- Attachments
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- Bad Follower & Lobe (Small).JPG (70.59 KiB) Viewed 13835 times
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- Bad Cam Lobe (Small).JPG (56.12 KiB) Viewed 13835 times
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- Stripped Head (Small).JPG (83.13 KiB) Viewed 13835 times
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- #1 Bore (Small).JPG (82.32 KiB) Viewed 13835 times
Last edited by Spasso on Mon Jul 18, 2016 7:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Who is doing the head rebuild for you? If you're pleased with the work, let us know.
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
My brother has a machine/auto shop.sansouci wrote:Who is doing the head rebuild for you? If you're pleased with the work, let us know.
He is a nit-picking perfectionist and doesn't like sending stuff out that isn't as good as he can get it.(hence, NOT cheap).
He's done a few engines for me over the decades and I haven't been able to blow one up yet.
(Really big on blueprinting and balancing if the customer allows it)
Two of my favorites was the engine for my old 240Z and the 350 I have in my pickup at the moment
He has done "hundreds" of these heads (as he puts it) and knows them well.
(Previously contracted by some German automotive shops in the area.)
They go through pressure test/crack detection and surfacing before he starts the build.
Rather exciting with the prospect of a fresh head on this car.
Oil Pan Repair
Well, things are progressing on the engine, albeit slowly.
Mine is worked on when nothing else is in the Shop.
As I mentioned earlier, the oil pan had taken some severe hits resulting in deep gouging.
It wasn't leaking oil so I figured it could still be used.
The inside was de-sludged and the baffles de-coked and then the entire pan was washed repeatedly with a combination of Hydrofluoric Acid and Sulfuric Acid to get down to some raw aluminum.
After some sanding on the inside bottom we found stress cracks along the RH side from the front of the sump to the drain plug.
Not real big but obviously the strength of the pan is compromised in the area so I took it home for refurb.
I got my trusty Dremel with flex snake and took a ball grinder to the cracks and surrounding areas.
I then heated the pan with my heat gun until it was really hot to help purge the cracks of oil.
While the pan was still hot I poured Lacquer thinner in the bottom of it and let it boil for about 15 seconds and poured it off into a white container to so I could see how much discoloration there was from residual oil.
I reheated the pan and repeated this process four times until it ran clear and then repeated twice with denatured alcohol.
I let everything cool off and mixed up a batch of JB Weld and poured in a liberal amount and let it self-level until it set.
I didn't blend out the edges because it would loose strength and probably flake off.
I could have used a lesser amount but I wanted to add strength to an already abused pan.
As far as heat and durability, the JB Weld is steel reinforced epoxy good to 600 degrees.
I think it will do the trick.
I skimmed out the external gouges with more JB Weld, sanded and painted the pan with 500 degree ceramic Aluminum paint.
* Note: The gouges pictured are AFTER the bottom of the pan was belt sanded.
The car will be getting a "Race Skid" when it goes back on the road.
Mine is worked on when nothing else is in the Shop.
As I mentioned earlier, the oil pan had taken some severe hits resulting in deep gouging.
It wasn't leaking oil so I figured it could still be used.
The inside was de-sludged and the baffles de-coked and then the entire pan was washed repeatedly with a combination of Hydrofluoric Acid and Sulfuric Acid to get down to some raw aluminum.
After some sanding on the inside bottom we found stress cracks along the RH side from the front of the sump to the drain plug.
Not real big but obviously the strength of the pan is compromised in the area so I took it home for refurb.
I got my trusty Dremel with flex snake and took a ball grinder to the cracks and surrounding areas.
I then heated the pan with my heat gun until it was really hot to help purge the cracks of oil.
While the pan was still hot I poured Lacquer thinner in the bottom of it and let it boil for about 15 seconds and poured it off into a white container to so I could see how much discoloration there was from residual oil.
I reheated the pan and repeated this process four times until it ran clear and then repeated twice with denatured alcohol.
I let everything cool off and mixed up a batch of JB Weld and poured in a liberal amount and let it self-level until it set.
I didn't blend out the edges because it would loose strength and probably flake off.
I could have used a lesser amount but I wanted to add strength to an already abused pan.
As far as heat and durability, the JB Weld is steel reinforced epoxy good to 600 degrees.
I think it will do the trick.
I skimmed out the external gouges with more JB Weld, sanded and painted the pan with 500 degree ceramic Aluminum paint.
* Note: The gouges pictured are AFTER the bottom of the pan was belt sanded.
The car will be getting a "Race Skid" when it goes back on the road.
- Attachments
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- Stress Crack (Small).JPG (107.07 KiB) Viewed 13691 times
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- Crack By Drain Plug (Small).JPG (88.1 KiB) Viewed 13691 times
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- JB Weld Float 1 (Small).JPG (71.79 KiB) Viewed 13691 times
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- JB Weld Float 3 (Small).JPG (69.28 KiB) Viewed 13691 times
Last edited by Spasso on Mon Jul 18, 2016 7:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
External Pan Damage
More Pictures
- Attachments
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- Gouges After Sanding 2 (Small).JPG (92.85 KiB) Viewed 13691 times
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- Gouges After Sanding 1 (Small).JPG (86.91 KiB) Viewed 13691 times
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- Filled Gouges 1 (Small).JPG (81.4 KiB) Viewed 13691 times
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- Filled Gouges 2 (Small).JPG (77.35 KiB) Viewed 13691 times
Last edited by Spasso on Mon Jul 18, 2016 7:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
Oil Pan Repaint
Paint
- Attachments
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- Paint Prep 1 (Small).JPG (91.46 KiB) Viewed 13691 times
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- Paint 2 (Small).JPG (64.2 KiB) Viewed 13691 times
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- Paint 1 (Small).JPG (73.72 KiB) Viewed 13691 times
Last edited by Spasso on Mon Jul 18, 2016 7:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Looks good!
The owner who caused that damage was sure lucky it didn't crack!
The owner who caused that damage was sure lucky it didn't crack!
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
What was your thinking about JB Weld vs having someone TIG weld the cracks?
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Yes indeed. It was very close to being a leaker.tschultz wrote:Looks good!
The owner who caused that damage was sure lucky it didn't crack!
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Two things.sansouci wrote:What was your thinking about JB Weld vs having someone TIG weld the cracks?
A) Penetration of the TIG weld could have been contaminated by residual oil in the crack that I may not have been able to remove.
B) The baffles are permanently installed and I didn't want to remove them for access by the TIG welder. (One or more would have to come out).
- Attachments
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- Pan Baffles (Small).JPG (109.96 KiB) Viewed 13662 times
Pistons And Lower End
More progress.
- The cylinder bores were mic'd top to bottom with the very upper end of each showing around .003" wear, not enough to warrant a bore job so they were honed. You can still see some discoloration in the bore left by the upper ring but everything is smooth now.
- The ring lands on the pistons were in very good shape and showing only minimal wear but the lower half of each piston was showing some scoring and wear so they were glass beaded and knurled using a piston knurler made by Perfect Circle. This is designed to support the inner side of the piston during knurling plus it leaves a snazzy "PC" pattern on the outside.
This process gained back .003" on the pistons so the resulting clearance in the cylinder has been tightened up nicely.
- The rods were checked for straight and the pistons rehung with new bushings and bearings, then reinstalled in the block.
* Before installation of the pistons my brother flooded the oil passages in the block until they ran clean.
NOTES:
* The main reason for pulling the pistons was to check the rod bearings and cylinders for signs of being starved or run out of oil. This was not the case so I feel better about the lower end of this engine now.
* The mains don't take the beating that the rod bearings do so we elected to go with them judging on how good the rod bearings looked.
The crank mic'd up well within tolerance.
* For the record, four of the six pistons pulled had ring gaps that were aligned. I assumed this might be from previous disassembly/reassembly by someone but my brother believes that it occurred naturally.
- The cylinder bores were mic'd top to bottom with the very upper end of each showing around .003" wear, not enough to warrant a bore job so they were honed. You can still see some discoloration in the bore left by the upper ring but everything is smooth now.
- The ring lands on the pistons were in very good shape and showing only minimal wear but the lower half of each piston was showing some scoring and wear so they were glass beaded and knurled using a piston knurler made by Perfect Circle. This is designed to support the inner side of the piston during knurling plus it leaves a snazzy "PC" pattern on the outside.
This process gained back .003" on the pistons so the resulting clearance in the cylinder has been tightened up nicely.
- The rods were checked for straight and the pistons rehung with new bushings and bearings, then reinstalled in the block.
* Before installation of the pistons my brother flooded the oil passages in the block until they ran clean.
NOTES:
* The main reason for pulling the pistons was to check the rod bearings and cylinders for signs of being starved or run out of oil. This was not the case so I feel better about the lower end of this engine now.
* The mains don't take the beating that the rod bearings do so we elected to go with them judging on how good the rod bearings looked.
The crank mic'd up well within tolerance.
* For the record, four of the six pistons pulled had ring gaps that were aligned. I assumed this might be from previous disassembly/reassembly by someone but my brother believes that it occurred naturally.
- Attachments
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- Ring Lands (Small).JPG (57.28 KiB) Viewed 13616 times
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- Knurled 1 (Small).JPG (84.86 KiB) Viewed 13616 times
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- Pistons 1 (Small).JPG (98.8 KiB) Viewed 13616 times
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- Pistons Installed 2 (Small).JPG (78.19 KiB) Viewed 13616 times
Last edited by Spasso on Mon Jul 18, 2016 7:39 am, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
- The new timing set has been installed which includes new everything,
Gears, sprockets, chain, guides, tension spring, piston and check ball, plus seals and gaskets of course.
- New Graf water pump with metal impeller.
Gears, sprockets, chain, guides, tension spring, piston and check ball, plus seals and gaskets of course.
- New Graf water pump with metal impeller.
- Attachments
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- Timing Cover, Water Pump (Small).JPG (107.29 KiB) Viewed 13616 times
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
Next is a brand new OEM oil pump with pick-up plus a new chain and both new sprockets.
- Attachments
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- Oil Pump 2 (Small).JPG (78.41 KiB) Viewed 13616 times
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
More fun and games.
When I bought the car the brakes were kind of spongy and slow to firm up on the first stroke but afterwords they worked pretty good.
It has new front brakes and rotors.
I assumed I needed an accumulator so bought one.
It comes time to change it out and the old one was LOOSE!.
It wiggled side to side and up and down a little.
I went ahead with the new accumulator anyway as long as we were in there.
I will be very curious to see how this affects braking.
When I bought the car the brakes were kind of spongy and slow to firm up on the first stroke but afterwords they worked pretty good.
It has new front brakes and rotors.
I assumed I needed an accumulator so bought one.
It comes time to change it out and the old one was LOOSE!.
It wiggled side to side and up and down a little.
I went ahead with the new accumulator anyway as long as we were in there.
I will be very curious to see how this affects braking.
Last edited by Spasso on Sat Jun 18, 2016 3:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Spasso's '84 Euro 635, #8183039
I wasn't getting really hot heat out of this thing either, just sort of luke-warm, and no matter how I adjusted the control knob it was either off or luke warm.
I bought a repair kit for the valve and finally got it apart to find a glob of silicone in the valve area.
I thought, "Well, this may have affected the operation of the valve."
Looking down in the bottom of the valve body I noticed a white ball, (check ball?).
Poking and prodding would only move it slightly and it wouldn't move easily.
Hard flushing, compressed air and liberal amounts of silicone spray yielded more globs of silicone.
The ball moves freely now and the valve will have new OEM plunger in it.
Next 'IF" will be if the heater core is indeed leaking or not. It was hard to tell last winter. The floors were dry on the Driver's side. Actually they were dry on both sides. I kept seeing a drip from what I suspect is A/C evaporator drain tube when I parked.
The previous owner did mention the A/C worked, but again, hard to tell when it's 35f degrees out.
I bought a repair kit for the valve and finally got it apart to find a glob of silicone in the valve area.
I thought, "Well, this may have affected the operation of the valve."
Looking down in the bottom of the valve body I noticed a white ball, (check ball?).
Poking and prodding would only move it slightly and it wouldn't move easily.
Hard flushing, compressed air and liberal amounts of silicone spray yielded more globs of silicone.
The ball moves freely now and the valve will have new OEM plunger in it.
Next 'IF" will be if the heater core is indeed leaking or not. It was hard to tell last winter. The floors were dry on the Driver's side. Actually they were dry on both sides. I kept seeing a drip from what I suspect is A/C evaporator drain tube when I parked.
The previous owner did mention the A/C worked, but again, hard to tell when it's 35f degrees out.