bigcoupe.com

Hello everyone! I just recently purchased the shark in August and I'm just now making time to introduce myself on the site. I have been visiting this site for a long time now, and the wealth of information that has been shared here surely helped me make the decision to get into the e24.

The story: My uncle owned an e24 back in 1997-98, along with some 2002's ans 735's. Fast forward to current day, looking for a dd/small project/family trip cruiser... i gravitated back to the e24.

We had some flooding in new orleans in early august and my work kia drowned, so my wife tells me "you could by a camry... or by something with style for the same price" GOD I LOVE HER!!!!!!

Found this nice 1988 model about 6 hours from my house in TX. I bought the car because the a/c was working with "updated" R134 system and parrallel flow condensor. On the way home the a/c stopped working!! Turned out to be the belt (have not replaced yet.)

here she is after a wash and tire shine. The PO's online pictures trying to sell the car do not do the car justice.

Danny Again, many thanks for providing this awesome community and I am sure I will soon be asking questions here (after I search!!!) lol.

She looks nice Sharky. More pictures !

More pics to come soon. I ordered a bunch of parts that should be in on Monday. Redoing the leaky low pressure lines fron the psp reservoir as well as the psp rebuild. Clutch m/c an slave also on the way. I have a loud tic which I'm almost sure is an injector that needs service ( have to take the stethoscope to it). I also purchased the clutch m/c pedal bracket from David Pepin. All these things are kinda on hold till I recover from a lil minor surgery I just had. Hard to be patient though...

Could anyone tell me what i could possibly do to make my metal reservoir look nicer. I think the original finish was like an anodized coating, mine is bare metal looking. Any ideas?

Welcome Double Zero 0ne,

Car looks to be in great condition. This forum has been invaluable to me, great people.

Attached is a link to a 88-89 owners manual if you don't have one, I purchase a new manual about two years ago from a BMW Dealer, $15.

6-er Series Owners Manual.pdf - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4jl9x ... sharingBMW

Regarding the oil carrier reservoir, they can be painted, zinc coat, power coated an advance search will give you some ideas "painted reservoir". There are also new decals available for the top from Kos at Pukar Design, he has decals for just about every area of our cars, if he doesn't have it, he has the ability to make them. Do an advance search for "decals" .

Plastic reservoirs can be cleaned, replaced new or with used ones which of course are better then the ones you currently have.

Roger

edit; added oil carrier

Box full of awesomeness arrived today!!! Too bad Im still not in shape to do anything with it did spend the day looking through the owners manual.

re: the oil carrier, Im prob going to paint it gold with hi temp enamel. want to find a color thats not too flashy and close to original as possible.

Thanks for the info Roger!

one more :)

Sharky001 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 17, 2017 3:21 am Could anyone tell me what i could possibly do to make my metal reservoir look nicer. I think the original finish was like an anodized coating, mine is bare metal looking. Any ideas?

Take it to your local plating shop and ask them to Zinc plate and colour it.

Hello all. I finally got around to dealing with the leaky power steering lines and rebuilt the PSP. Got everything clean and vack together and bled the crap out of it. As i suspected, the oil level dropped a whole lot when i started the car so poured a little more ATF and decided to bleed it again.

This is where the question lies. I pumped the brakes until they became hard before doing the lock to lock. When i pushed the brake pedal, the fluid level rose (as i knew it would), but it put a TON of air bubbles into the reservoir. Tiny bubbles that literally sat like a froth in the reservoir.

Is this indicative of a problem with the bomb or brake MC? Pardon the ignorance, I'm still wrapping my brain around the hydro assist system.

I read the thread from cofred he started back in February and it just mentions that he changed the HP lines, LP lines and the bomb, but didnt state where the bubbles came from.

Many thanks in advance!!!!

PS: On a side note, I ordered a new a/c belt from autohausaz and the belt (oem part 64521711058) i received was 13x800 (ah part # 64521711058). the belt is too short. The previous belt broke off while driving so i have nothing to compare it too. Could someone give me the correct size please.

Danny

Hello gents (and maybe ladies):

Everything is done with the P/S! No leaks, moans or groans. I did have a little freak out moment when I started the car and it idled at almost 2000 rpm. After driving it around and giving it a good stomp, it settled back down to to about 750. I'm kinda thinking since the battery had been unplugged while I was working on it, it might of taken a little driving for the dinan chip to reach a meeting of the minds with the ecu.

So next on the list is the a/c. While I was underneath the car I tried to turn the pulley but it seems the clutch was locked onto it. I know it locked up during driving because of all the melted rubber flung around the engine comp.. I cleaned it freed it up as best I could and will soon get a belt to test it. Fingers crossed.

Anyone with a proper belt length would be greatly appreciated!!

Again, thanks guys,
Danny

oil bubbles in PAS reservoir when 'bomb' is discharged can indicate that the bomb is on the way out but it can also indicate that the oil that went into the bomb was full of tiny bubbles to start with, for which there are many possible causes.

Suggestion; get the system good and hot, turn the engine off and discharge the bomb. Run the engine again and repeat the discharge. If the bomb is healthy the oil discharged will have a similar amount of bubbles vs the rest of the oil in the system and the oil level in the reservoir will change by several inches as the discharge occurs.

Fast idle as you describe has one cause and one cause only; too much air going into the engine. Most likely cause (if it calms down by itself) is that the ICV is sticky and has jammed open for a while before sorting itself out.

Suggestion; check that the ICV is free-moving and if it isn't, clean and lube it accordingly.

cheers

Thanks Brucey! What you recommended to do to the PAS system is exactly what I did. By the end of it the level of the fluid went up as I pumped the brakes, but no bubbles.

Today I drove the car a bit and it had no idle issues but I will check the icv and do as you recommended.

About my a/c issue. The reason the the belt I ordered did not fit is because it is not a stock compressor. I found an invoice in the paperwork the PO gave me and a shop has apparently replaced the stock compressor with one from an e30 (part # 64521377947). I looked that number up on realism and it was used in several 3's and 5's. I also found on the invoice that the belt used was a 13x850.

Do you know of any benefit of them going with that compressor over stock, other than price or availability (i.e. Is it better?)

I'm not completely confident in the state of my compressor. The fact that it locked up and melted the belt off doesn't sound to good. Getting some tools soon as well as an a/c manifold to start checking why it happened.

Anyway, I'll report back soon.

Thanks,
Danny