ericono wrote: ↑Fri Jan 11, 2019 1:08 pm
As always, some kick ass work going on here. I do have a few questions. Not clear on the tube in the plenum. Is the outside air coming into the plenum from the bottom and therefore going through the tube first in an effort to evenly fill the plenum and therefore evenly supply air to every cylinder or is the tube performing some other function? Are you getting rid of the AFM or MAF and running an Alpha N setup (sorry if you already said this earlier)?
Also, you may have already answered this but I forgot, does the early Mk60 run completely standalone or does it need to integrate with the Emtron to perform properly?
Thanks again for sharing, I love following the progress.
Eric
Thank you for the compliments!
The plenum isn't designed completely yet but I have included a hand drawn pic of the layout to give a better idea. The back portion of the airbox will need to be made to fit the front half, and it will feed the "manifold" that will hopefully distribute air more equally. I will run the engine on Crank, Cam , MAP and Lambda. The intake size would ideally be 6"-7" in diameter and taper down to increase velocity.
MK60: Can run alone with the correct Hookups and harness for ABS. I will be installing a yaw sensor and and steering angle sensor and will be able to run DSC and traction control through the Emtron along with the MK60.
Plenum layout sketch.jpeg (124.94 KiB) Viewed 14611 times
Last edited by TBM on Mon Jan 21, 2019 8:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It looks like on the scetch that u are planning to use the oem panel filter box. If so U may/will need some sort of flex as the engine moves under acceleration.
GazM3 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 7:26 pm
It looks like on the scetch that u are planning to use the oem panel filter box. If so U may/will need some sort of flex as the engine moves under acceleration.
Correct.. I am remaking the foam from the airbox which will change on the engine side to the plenum, hopefully this week. Once everything is mocked up I will know where I need create a playable connection.
I needed a Crank position sensor. I was encouraged to buy one from VAC as they have a kit for the S14. I wanted something that fit the OEM bracket that is also adjustable. The VAC unit is +$200 use for the sensor, as the kit is made for the S14 it wont work on the S38 as far as I know..
I found that ZF (formerly Cherry) makes the same hall sensor without the terminated end (which I don't need anyway) and it works just like I wanted it to and it only cost $24!
I am trying to go a different harmonic balancer that will fit on the flywheel but if I stay on the front piece I am trying to go for a piece called the Sterling Rattler from a company called Vibration free in the UK.
The OEM bracket is working out but I needed to make sure that the Sensor can be held in place and be adjusted. I designed a piece that will mount on the top of the bracket and be held by a screw into the OEM piece.
OEM Bracket .JPG (1.12 MiB) Viewed 14497 times
CPS reatiner 1.png (358.83 KiB) Viewed 14497 times
CPS Retainer 2.png (168.39 KiB) Viewed 14497 times
I finally got something "almost"done, as i need to finish the edges and maybe use some heat to make the Titanium (bracket) gold in color... Maybe not... .... I don't want it to look garish.
Valave cover Coil Bracket 1.jpg (625.65 KiB) Viewed 14164 times
Valve cover Coil bracket 2.jpg (1.29 MiB) Viewed 14164 times
This is some very nice work. I'm curious as to how you are going to mechanically actuate the variable length intake? Likewise, the input for same, ie, load, rpm, etc? Have you considered, based on manifold pressure, any intake swirl manipulation? Again, very nice work here and following closely. Forgive me if explained earlier, what management system are you going to use?
DrTwincam wrote: ↑Wed May 01, 2019 11:30 am
This is some very nice work. I'm curious as to how you are going to mechanically actuate the variable length intake? Likewise, the input for same, ie, load, rpm, etc? Have you considered, based on manifold pressure, any intake swirl manipulation? Again, very nice work here and following closely. Forgive me if explained earlier, what management system are you going to use?
HI,
I'm using an Emtron KV8 for the standalone. I chose it based on recommendations from a few tuners and the fact that its firmware is so well developed without "add-ons" for every complex feature I wanted to have access to.
The Emtron will control the variable length runners based on RPM. That will be tuned based on Dyno numbers and a formula that calculates waves speed for the "supercharging effect". I may still have a MAF in the end. But that depends on the final design on the plenum. It's all still in the works.
[*] I'm curious as to how you are going to mechanically actuate the variable length intake?[*]
Sorry, I don't think I quite answered that question:
There is a NEMA 17 motor that is driving a pulley and a Kevlar belt to move the runners up and down. ...also using a NEMA 17 stepper motor on back plate to actuate the final lift and separation..
I recently saw a few posts between here and Bimmerpost about replacing the door stops. The problem is the Pin removal.. Sooo a little web search and a week later I got the tool from an online antique FORD truck parts shop. The tool works perfectly.. Came with different length and diameter pins.. Both sides are done and the door creaks less although I need to attack the hinge pins as well in the future..
Removing Pin .JPG (963.42 KiB) Viewed 14039 times
Hinge pin removal 2.JPG (1.87 MiB) Viewed 14039 times
Hinge pin removal 3.JPG (1.66 MiB) Viewed 14039 times
Hinge pin removal tool .JPG (1.1 MiB) Viewed 14039 times
Last edited by TBM on Mon May 06, 2019 4:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
I bought an extra OBC because my old one's buttons were a little worn..
But it got me thinking that I really want to convert the OBC to a capacitive touch screen and use it as an info center that will work with my standalone.. I have been talking to a few people and it turns out I'll probably need to use an Arduino and a have someone program some python to make it all work. I intend to have the home screen look just like the buttons on the OBC and make them function the same way but will want warnings such as water temp, oil pressure and temp etc show up when they need tending... Will have the plastic that holds the radio and OBC redone as I will probably swap the locations of the two with the OBS being closer to the driver..
OBC's .JPG (1 MiB) Viewed 14037 times
Last edited by TBM on Mon Jun 17, 2019 4:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
TBM wrote: ↑Mon May 06, 2019 4:20 am
I bought an extra OBC because my old one's buttons were a little worn..
But it got me thinking that I really want to convert the OBC to a capacitive touch screen and use it as an info center that will work with my standalone.. I have been talking to a few people and it turns out I'll probably need to use an Arduino and a have someone program some python to make it all work. I intend to have the home screen look just like the buttons on the OBC and make them function the same way but will want oil warnings such as water temp, oil pressure and temp etc show up when they need tending... Will have the plastic that holds the radio and OBC redone as I will probably swap the locations of the two with the OBS being closer to the driver..
OBC's .JPG
I always thought this would be cool to replace the OBC but I'm assuming it's too big for the slot. Blackberrys still have that retro look and I think it would suit well with the dashboard and center console.
I wanted to make sure I had some choices when it comes to the heater valve.. I don't like BMW''s pricing and potential NLA scenario...
I finally got to making the E46 heater valve bracket for the E46 heater valve. If you remember in a previous post with a pic of the a finish engine bay I pointed to the old heater valve location being in the way of the plenum.
Designed on CAD and waterjet cut form Stainless (had some laying around)
Need to bend the ends to about 70 Deg on the first notch and 90 on the second and make some holes one each ear to mount to firewall.
The finish isn't final as I may paint it.. I will decide later.
The routing of the hoses will be tricky as I don't want multiple connections. That's next on the list... OH and the feed and return lines are opposite on the E46 valve.. as has been pointed out on another forum...
bracket only.JPG (822.46 KiB) Viewed 13942 times
front.JPG (909.74 KiB) Viewed 13942 times
rough back.JPG (894.15 KiB) Viewed 13942 times
with 220grit finish.jpg (1.24 MiB) Viewed 13942 times
Just finished designing and printing the housing that will attach to the back of the plenum plate, that houses the Yamaha YCCI motor. It has 90deg of max motion and will do nicely. We plan on lifting the entire assembly about 2" away from the ports on the back plates. We once again printed using NylonX. very light and strong.
Now its on to finishing the assembly and checking that it all moves as intended with the stepper motor, limit switches and this motor....
Separation motor 1.jpeg (262.12 KiB) Viewed 13906 times
Separation motor 2.jpeg (233.63 KiB) Viewed 13906 times
Separation motor 3.jpeg (315.51 KiB) Viewed 13906 times
jps635 wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2019 6:12 am
Really impressed with your engineerings kills.
Regarding the variable stacks and excuse me if you've already covered this - what triggers the adjustment and how responsive will they be?
I really wish I can take all the credit for this work... I am the idea man and do some of the design work you see..I designed a portion of the pieces in CAD that I only just learned, but I have people's help. I come up with what I want and to my surprise my ideas usually work better than the engineer friend that printed that piece. So I am quite proud of that.
Re: "triggers the adjustment"- The movement will be based on calculations of sound wave speed and valve timing. The higher the RPM the shorter the length of tract as the waves travel faster and need a shorter distance in order to reach the back of the valve to bounce off and return while "supercharging the air.
So to the point, the EMTRON ecu will control all of that. The speed is based on the NEMA 17 motor and I don't remember how quickly it moves the length but it's pretty fast... Once we test I will know if I need to spend more money on a linear motor ( I hope not)..The faster the car will build RPM's the faster the motor needs to respond.
Below is a link to a youtube video that shows an extreme Linmot actuator in action on motorcycle motor built by students: "a formula student race car with a suzuki gsxr 600 engine"
We are finally making more progress with the assembly and output of parts. Whomever painted a Rosy picture of 3d printing is wring. We waited over 4 months for Dow to "perfect" their support materials for NylonX and still the parts came out a bit scraggly... I'll probably finish them a little with glue, primer and paint since I'm anal..
I hope to have it all mocked up by end of month and hook it up to a controller to see how it all functions..
Brackets 1.jpeg (109.73 KiB) Viewed 13762 times
Brackets 2.jpeg (114.22 KiB) Viewed 13762 times
Brackets with Motor.jpeg (113 KiB) Viewed 13762 times
Intakes wtih brackets.jpeg (193.68 KiB) Viewed 13762 times