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randall977 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 09, 2018 10:44 pm I might have another go then - at £100 a piece and one section NLA I'll have to be very careful!

Below is some fun I had with the SI board before buying a new one - which works great - would love to know how to reset the LED indicators...


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If you just mean resetting the service lights then a quick search of this site or a general google search will give you the answer, but in short it will either be the purchase of a reset tool or knowing which pins to jump using a paper clip

Kev

Thanks, I'll find the answer on here and get hold of a paper clip

Ordered a draper tool for the SI reset as they're pretty cheap.

Today I removed all of the side trims. As mentioned else where, the best way to remove the aluminium trim is to work from the middle joint carefully tilting it out. I saved one side but I think the other needs replacing - only £180, but at least it's still available.

The C pillar cabin vent - I assume this is what it is (hidden behind the side trims)? Bit of rust in there which needs treating - I bet rust here is the guilty secret of many a 6 owner!

As you will know (if you have seen my other post) I have now found out why I could move the car when in gear. Anyhow, c'est la vie, I've sourced a replacement 265 dogleg.

Tomorrow the flywheel is being skimmed. I assume the damage to the clutch seen below is the result of sudden catastrophic transmission failure? or idiot last owner?

Should I replace the rear crankshaft seal as a matter of course while the flywheel is out - it's not leaking but am I right in thinking that they can be a problem?

Personal opinion: you'd be a fool not to change the seal now. I mean, it's RIGHT THERE. When will you have this opportunity again?

Don't know about the seal, but the pilot bearing for definite!

So sorry the box is dead, I suppose that's the reason it was taken off the road in the first place.

Cheers,

Rob

Definitely! When I asked the garage owner 'why was it brought in' he said 'for bodywork' - maybe he forgot...

Despite this I've still really enjoyed working on the car - a real change from my last few projects, one of which involved 3 years of hard labour - see here (as I found it and after I finished it);

What a magnificent car .
Don

Thanks Don - not sure why but I love a nice engine bay and underside - I guess I like engines and mechanical stuff. I hope you don't you mind me showing this non E24 on here briefly - the carbs are German though. All my own work apart from the re-spray.

Wow! That is absolutely stunning. Thank you for sharing.

Simply wonderful work....

Replaced the crank end seal and fitted the resurface flywheel and new clutch (using the output shaft from my kaput gearbox and a nifty alignment tool) yesterday.

I've been buying most of my new parts from Wallothnesch and BMW, depending on the price and delivery etc, also eBay of course. Some parts are surprisingly cheap - like the rear suspension links shown below - £7 each! It's very nice when a box from Germany arrives - always beautifully packed. Compared to other cars I restored - such as early 80's Audi's - parts are generally readily available - fuel lines for example - didn't realise you could buy pre formed ones - brilliant.

Today I collected the replacement 265/5 Dogleg...as well as a few other goodies! A big thank you to Ron, I think you've saved this project from disaster. Once I've cleaned the box externally I'll replace the shaft seals (just in case), though I think the current ones are probably fine. This box was from an earlier car without sensors and it had a speedo drive. The great thing about these boxes is that you can very easily swap the bell houses - I removed the speedo drive and plugged the opening. Can't wait to put it back in the car!@~

So this is the big job which I've known about since buying the car...of course the extent was greater than I thought! I think this rust is common to many UK E24's on the drivers side (OS). If I couldn't fabricate and weld it would make this project economically unviable. I'm still stripping back and preparing - not yet at the point where I can start to make panels to weld in. From what I can gather this area was badly repaired in 2000 - patched over rust with poor welding. Getting rid of this poor repair will take a while...

I also noticed the floor pan cover looked flaky around the edge, when I pressed up on it with my knee from underneath it push straight up. In fact there was nothing left of the cover - just bitumen and underseal. The rest of the footwell, apart from the edge where the cover was, is solid.

The cutting out continues... I can now see the end of the rust, it won't be too long before I can start fabricating new sections. I ordered two parts from BMW - a floor pan cover (£7) and the rear corner of the inner sill (£16). It looks bad but structurally it's sound (to work on - not drive) these cars are strong with many cross members etc.

I've shown a picture of my favourite tools for rust, weld and body removal: 1. A cheap Bosch angle grinder - lightweight and reliable. 2. A Black and Decker Powerfile, great for getting into corners and finishing off welds...not so reliable though. 3. Flap discs are brilliant, nothing removes welds and rust better. 4. 1mm metal cutting discs - less breaks too easily, more doesn't cut easily. 5. Polycarbonate discs are great for paint removal etc but are expensive and don't last long. 6. Leather gloves, ear plugs, googles are a must - dust mask really but I find it too hot...

Just plain nice... Im jealous you can take on such work.

Thanks! Your 84 Henna is quite an inspiration - if mine looks anywhere near as good I'll be very pleased.

randall977 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 15, 2018 9:10 pm Thanks! Your 84 Henna is quite an inspiration - if mine looks anywhere near as good I'll be very pleased.

Thank you! but not all is what is seems.... But I am working on the mechanicals and the goal is to update everything so that it performs like its a more modern car.. If your 635 ends up looking like your previous cars they can surely use it in the BMW museum..

Bizarre ... I think our cars were rusting in harmony .
And to spook you all , just think what your's is doing deep down in that cavity

Yes I bet there are not many UK / Ireland E24's that don't have a degree of rot in this area - and it's technically difficult to repair - you really need to drop the whole rear suspension and cut back quite a bit of material to get to the inner sections. Interesting to see some very minor differences in the Mk1 - but almost identical. The NS on mine is really good but the OS is bad - at least it's not both sides!

You know that the sub frame bolt knocks out quite easily don't you? Attach bolt to the end and tap with hammer.

That Lagonda is just luscious. I'm sure the 6'er will be awesome!

Finished the OS rear sill today and achieved my ultimate goal - being able to support the car off the sill jacking points.

It's a great feeling when you add strength back into a cars structure. I know it's pretty strong as my rapid lift jack dropped the car onto the stands in a very ungracious way. These rapid lift jacks do tend to do that I've found. I had made some blocks to fit around the jacking points so there wasn't too much danger.

I'm afraid I didn't take any photos of the metal fabrication as I was in the zone, but nothings hidden. When I did the Lagonda I had to fabricate so much that I did quite a bit of research into finding an 'easy to use' metal cutter - and I found one - the Bosch shown below. It's really really fantastic and saves so much time and effort, it produces lovely safe edges too - well worth the money. Making the sill drain holes took a bit of practice, the metal is 1.2mm so not that easy to shape. I used a chisel to cut the slots, then a big socket and hammer to create the right shaped outlet - photo to follow...

I've only primed and underguarded the repaired areas - I'd love to match the original underseal but not sure if that's possible. One slight mistake is the position of the little round X plug - a bit too high...but I'm sure I measured its position correctly! Not a big deal as this was formally plated over with rubblishy metal - so nice to see it again.

I injected all of the cavities and sills etc with Dinitrol 3125 HS cavity wax - I do hope I don't have to weld in this area again

randall977 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 10, 2018 8:17 pm Thanks, I'll find the answer on here and get hold of a paper clip

Looking in my notes for my '84 Euro with 15 pin diagnostic connector..

Short pins #1 and 7 for service lights with the key on.
Duration 4 to 5 seconds to reset the oil interval and 11 to 12 seconds for the service interval.

Also, short pins #11 and 14 for remote cranking.