New Qld member
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
New Qld member
Hi everyone:
I'd just like to introduce myself as a new member on this forum.
I have just purchased the "white M635 CSI" from Malcom which appears elsewhere on this forum.
I'm about to embark on the road to restoration which of course must start with "compliancing"
I talked Malcom into supplying a set of nice 17" BBS wheels he had in with the car and I will get some photos up soon.
I have owned most of the M's before including M3's and even the latest M5 (V10) but cant wait to get into this lovely M6. My current drive is actually the new Nissan GTR so I am not looking for anything that will blow everything else off the road as I already can do that with the nissan.
It will not be a show car however as I intend to drive it. I will almost certainly rebuild the engine and get a nice set of camshafts and a set of stainless steel extractors to make it sound like it should.
I will then give it a re-spray probably in the original colour.
Look forward to meeting you guys some day.
Robert
I'd just like to introduce myself as a new member on this forum.
I have just purchased the "white M635 CSI" from Malcom which appears elsewhere on this forum.
I'm about to embark on the road to restoration which of course must start with "compliancing"
I talked Malcom into supplying a set of nice 17" BBS wheels he had in with the car and I will get some photos up soon.
I have owned most of the M's before including M3's and even the latest M5 (V10) but cant wait to get into this lovely M6. My current drive is actually the new Nissan GTR so I am not looking for anything that will blow everything else off the road as I already can do that with the nissan.
It will not be a show car however as I intend to drive it. I will almost certainly rebuild the engine and get a nice set of camshafts and a set of stainless steel extractors to make it sound like it should.
I will then give it a re-spray probably in the original colour.
Look forward to meeting you guys some day.
Robert
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- Posts: 791
- Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2008 5:26 am
- Location: Sydney Australia
Bit of advice needed
Hi guys.. I would like a bit of advice from some members who have already been through this..
I pick up my M635csi tomorrow and it will be immediately complianced and any structural rust removed and repaired.
My question however is on the engine.
It starts and drives fine and it sounds like many other M engines with a lot of mechanical "stuff" happening. It doesn't however produce any smoke at all which seems to be telling me that that the rings/ valve guides are probably fine.
I intend to give it a compression test to confirm this in the next day or so.
Does anybody know what compression figures I should be achieving for this motor?
If the compression test is ok I will probably just remove the head and then replace the timing chain and tensioner , re-seat the valves and generally clean the head up. This would be a hell of a lot easier than removing the entire motor I am wondering how much extra work it would entail as with the motor out I could put some new big end and main bearings and rings in it (oversize if necessary).
Whats the general consensus on the state of the bottom end after 120 K miles?
The engine rebuild doesn't particularly concern me but if the general consensus is that the bottom end should be fine then I will just do the head and save myself a lot of time!!!
I pick up my M635csi tomorrow and it will be immediately complianced and any structural rust removed and repaired.
My question however is on the engine.
It starts and drives fine and it sounds like many other M engines with a lot of mechanical "stuff" happening. It doesn't however produce any smoke at all which seems to be telling me that that the rings/ valve guides are probably fine.
I intend to give it a compression test to confirm this in the next day or so.
Does anybody know what compression figures I should be achieving for this motor?
If the compression test is ok I will probably just remove the head and then replace the timing chain and tensioner , re-seat the valves and generally clean the head up. This would be a hell of a lot easier than removing the entire motor I am wondering how much extra work it would entail as with the motor out I could put some new big end and main bearings and rings in it (oversize if necessary).
Whats the general consensus on the state of the bottom end after 120 K miles?
The engine rebuild doesn't particularly concern me but if the general consensus is that the bottom end should be fine then I will just do the head and save myself a lot of time!!!
New purchase of sixer.
Good to see a fellow brisbane sixer here. Sorry I do not know enough about engines or mechanical workings about these beasts, Ijust try to slug it out and hope for the best but I can direct you to a good south side mechanic. Simon Harrix at RX Auto at Coopers Plains, does good work and is reasonable in pricing. Does a lot with the Brisbane BMW Club. Ph 07 334 58284. Would like to see your car. Best of luck.
Hi Guys:
My adventure begins....
After some closer inspection on a hoist all I can say is that there is "significant" rust which needs attending to...Damn that salt they put on the roads over there!!!It was a bit depressing to get this news but just a few looks at the car make me think that it will all be very worth while !! Everything electrical seems to work perfectly and the car runs well.
As I have said elsewhere I was always going to strip the car and rebuild the engine which doesn't particularly worry me as I have built many road and race engines previously so it just looks as though this will be happening straight away rather than somewhere down the track...
I have attached the first of probably many photos which was the pick up today!!
My adventure begins....
After some closer inspection on a hoist all I can say is that there is "significant" rust which needs attending to...Damn that salt they put on the roads over there!!!It was a bit depressing to get this news but just a few looks at the car make me think that it will all be very worth while !! Everything electrical seems to work perfectly and the car runs well.
As I have said elsewhere I was always going to strip the car and rebuild the engine which doesn't particularly worry me as I have built many road and race engines previously so it just looks as though this will be happening straight away rather than somewhere down the track...
I have attached the first of probably many photos which was the pick up today!!
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- IMG_3173.jpg (203.68 KiB) Viewed 10661 times
Re: Bit of advice needed
Dear Robertb,
I would recommend joining our little M6 forum. Once you have signed-in then go to the Files section to view various rolling road dyno runs.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/oznz_m635/
For a car with 120 k miles on the clock, target compression test results for each cylinder conducted "dry" and at wide open throttle should be in the range of 190 - 200 psi for each cylinder. 180 psi is minimum and 210 psi is maximum.
Target air fuel ratio should be 14:1 across the rpm range.
The bottom end is strong in these motors but if you are going to drive the engine at its peaks then the weak component is the factory crank hub - you can obtain an after market better crank hub from M1 and M635 San Diego specialist Frank Fahey. See http://www.frankfaheymotorsports.com/Ma ... oduct1.asp
Hope the above helps.
Peter.
I would recommend joining our little M6 forum. Once you have signed-in then go to the Files section to view various rolling road dyno runs.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/oznz_m635/
For a car with 120 k miles on the clock, target compression test results for each cylinder conducted "dry" and at wide open throttle should be in the range of 190 - 200 psi for each cylinder. 180 psi is minimum and 210 psi is maximum.
Target air fuel ratio should be 14:1 across the rpm range.
The bottom end is strong in these motors but if you are going to drive the engine at its peaks then the weak component is the factory crank hub - you can obtain an after market better crank hub from M1 and M635 San Diego specialist Frank Fahey. See http://www.frankfaheymotorsports.com/Ma ... oduct1.asp
Hope the above helps.
Peter.
Re: Bit of advice needed
PS. Every 100,000 miles the timing chain and its associated parts should be replaced as a preventative maintenance measure. Perhaps check with the prior owner.
Re: New Qld member
PPS. 6-series BMW repair manual (including M635 CSi) is on internet.
See http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/631en/index.htm
See http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/631en/index.htm
Thanks for all of the info here guys as it is invaluable.
I cant really contact the prior owner so I am going to replace the chain and tensioner anyway however probably with an M3 tensioner...
I am going to wait and see what condition the rails are in however as from most reports they don't wear that much and they are EXPENSIVE.
Regarding the crank hub i really wasn't aware that this was a problem.
It wouldn't be too difficult to turn up with a nice piece of tool steel which I could then get hardened though.
What does everyone else think about this as it is the first time that I have heard about it...
I cant really contact the prior owner so I am going to replace the chain and tensioner anyway however probably with an M3 tensioner...
I am going to wait and see what condition the rails are in however as from most reports they don't wear that much and they are EXPENSIVE.
Regarding the crank hub i really wasn't aware that this was a problem.
It wouldn't be too difficult to turn up with a nice piece of tool steel which I could then get hardened though.
What does everyone else think about this as it is the first time that I have heard about it...
Dear Robertb, useful articles regarding crank hubs written by Frank Fahey who is very experienced with these engines.
See http://www.frankfaheymotorsports.com/Ma ... rticle.asp
See http://www.frankfaheymotorsports.com/Ma ... Update.asp
Regards,
Peter.
See http://www.frankfaheymotorsports.com/Ma ... rticle.asp
See http://www.frankfaheymotorsports.com/Ma ... Update.asp
Regards,
Peter.
- World-Class6
- Posts: 727
- Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2009 5:20 am
- Location: Vallejo, Ca.
Congratulations on your M6 purchase! A few pictures of the Nissan GTR would be awesome in the gallery section I believe...I love how that car looks.
85 M635 Schwarz (Found a new home in L.A.)
95 MBZ E36 AMG Coupe widebody Polar White
88 BMW E28 535is White
2000 Jaguar XJR Anthracite
2016 GMC Sierra Double Cab SLT- All Terrain Black
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95 MBZ E36 AMG Coupe widebody Polar White
88 BMW E28 535is White
2000 Jaguar XJR Anthracite
2016 GMC Sierra Double Cab SLT- All Terrain Black
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Here you are privileged6 just for you as I am thinking most people on this forum would not like rice grinders that much...
It is white however which is the same colour as my M635 although its rather black now as its covered in grease...
It is white however which is the same colour as my M635 although its rather black now as its covered in grease...
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- My Ricer as requested
- IMG_3695.jpg (128.52 KiB) Viewed 6550 times