Unibody rust weld repair
Unibody rust weld repair
I will load the pic soon but I have a rust hole above the front jack point. The jack point is weakened but mostly intact.
Peek-a-boo, wire harness.
Unibody rust hole above left front jack point. by Matt Squirsh, on Flickr
Im making some patterns out of 1/16" (1.5mm) steel to weld up 3 unibody rust holes in the area under the left wing. Im familiar with the risks of doing this and have access to a quality MIG setup. Any tips for this repair?
Peek-a-boo, wire harness.
Unibody rust hole above left front jack point. by Matt Squirsh, on Flickr
Im making some patterns out of 1/16" (1.5mm) steel to weld up 3 unibody rust holes in the area under the left wing. Im familiar with the risks of doing this and have access to a quality MIG setup. Any tips for this repair?
Karmann, German for extra rusty.
Re: Unibody rust weld repair
That's not the jacking point , that's on/in the sill ( rocker ) .
I believe that the square pad in your photo was used to transport the shell during prep/painting at manufacture .
The pad serves no purpose and providing you are not seeking to preserve the 100% originality of the car , can be removed. They allow the build up of road dirt leading to rust ( as you have found out .....)
If you wish to retain it I'd remove the carpet and underlay ( most important ), cut out the rot and replace with fresh metal , fabricate a new pad and then weld back onto the new metal underneath .
I removed both pads from mine when I restored the car A) to remove a source of future corrosion and B) to give the Lokari liners I fitted, a flusher much better fit.
'Bye the way , that circular plug to the right of the rusty area is the sunroof drain tube exit . I presume you have no sunroof on your car , if you do it's draining into the sill cavity
Good luck .
Don
I believe that the square pad in your photo was used to transport the shell during prep/painting at manufacture .
The pad serves no purpose and providing you are not seeking to preserve the 100% originality of the car , can be removed. They allow the build up of road dirt leading to rust ( as you have found out .....)
If you wish to retain it I'd remove the carpet and underlay ( most important ), cut out the rot and replace with fresh metal , fabricate a new pad and then weld back onto the new metal underneath .
I removed both pads from mine when I restored the car A) to remove a source of future corrosion and B) to give the Lokari liners I fitted, a flusher much better fit.
'Bye the way , that circular plug to the right of the rusty area is the sunroof drain tube exit . I presume you have no sunroof on your car , if you do it's draining into the sill cavity
Good luck .
Don
1981 635 series 1
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Re: Unibody rust weld repair
As Don says. I've had this argument with E28 owners having learned the hard way that this is NOT a jacking point, even though it's labelled "lifting pad" on real oem.
I have removed them from my M as part of the restoration along with the jacking points on the sill. Instead, I've welded reinforcing plates onto the chassis rails and carry a small scissor jack in the boot.
I have removed them from my M as part of the restoration along with the jacking points on the sill. Instead, I've welded reinforcing plates onto the chassis rails and carry a small scissor jack in the boot.
"Most of it necessary; all of it enjoyable." LJKS
'84 635CSi, dogleg...itbs and supercharger????? Eaton Mess
'84 635CSi, dogleg...itbs and supercharger????? Eaton Mess
Re: Unibody rust weld repair
Golly, its such a convenient jacking point (I use a rectangular piece of wood in there). I think I'm just going to cut the rust, clean it up, treat the underlying metal and reinforce it.
Karmann, German for extra rusty.
Re: Unibody rust weld repair
I see that the "frame rails" are the appropriate part to jack on. Mine are dented pretty good (that's the condition they were in when I acquired the car)
Karmann, German for extra rusty.
Re: Unibody rust weld repair
I'm using POR 15 on the peripherals here. The fender is obviously rotten to the core, but I have this idea of working chain/bar oil into the seam to to treat the unseen . But then top coating it for aesthetics will be difficult.
http://www.type2.com/library/body/baroil.htm
Rotten at the crease by Matt Squirsh, on Flickr
http://www.type2.com/library/body/baroil.htm
Rotten at the crease by Matt Squirsh, on Flickr
Karmann, German for extra rusty.
Re: Unibody rust weld repair
On this episode of this old Saab... nah just kidding. Stitching 16 gauge wasn't too bad. I used a Hobart MIG welder with 100% CO2 mentioned in another post. Just some cheesy plates mainly to reinforce that square so I can continue to use it for my "jacking pleasure".
20180125_161540 by Matt Squirsh, on Flickr
20180125_161343 by Matt Squirsh, on Flickr
20180125_133901 by Matt Squirsh, on Flickr
20180125_161540 by Matt Squirsh, on Flickr
20180125_161343 by Matt Squirsh, on Flickr
20180125_133901 by Matt Squirsh, on Flickr
Karmann, German for extra rusty.
Re: Unibody rust weld repair
Is that your personal garage!!??
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: Unibody rust weld repair
That's Jeffs Saab Shop. Although my dream garage would have a 2 post lift. And an espresso machine.
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Jeff' ... 06.5256959
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Jeff' ... 06.5256959
Karmann, German for extra rusty.
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Re: Unibody rust weld repair
Gotta get some 'fuel' aka coffee somehow...Also, working on a lift is so much better than laying on the ground.LandShark wrote: ↑Thu Feb 01, 2018 2:32 am That's Jeffs Saab Shop. Although my dream garage would have a 2 post lift. And an espresso machine.
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Jeff' ... 06.5256959
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