Painting a Dashboard
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
I was about to attempt the same as you did. I lean more towards high heat silicone now however I believe epoxy resin fiberglass would be a good option aswell.
My dash is really gone so whatever I do it will be an upgrade
I cannot recall if you drilled the beginning and the end of the cracks? Maybe this would help evening the pressure and prevent further cracking. Or maybe I will attempt to remove as much old foam as possible, fill it up with silicone and fiberglass all over it
My dash is really gone so whatever I do it will be an upgrade
I cannot recall if you drilled the beginning and the end of the cracks? Maybe this would help evening the pressure and prevent further cracking. Or maybe I will attempt to remove as much old foam as possible, fill it up with silicone and fiberglass all over it
All good idea's and I hope your able to find the perfect materials that will not only fill the cracks but hold and seal them over time.
Right now the dash is sort of last on my priorty list as the front end and driveline need some attention.
Good luck with your dash and please let us know how you make out...
Right now the dash is sort of last on my priorty list as the front end and driveline need some attention.
Good luck with your dash and please let us know how you make out...
I just finished going thru this entire post. Im not surprised that the cracks came back. JB weld is not the right material for this job. You need to use something that has some flex and can expand and contract. It doesn't necessarily need to be the strongest material, but a materiel that has some flex. Maybe a rubber/fiberglass material? any thoughts?
I've seen guys with Alfa Spider's and Datsun 240Z's ue expanding polymer foam to fill the cracks, and the spray truck bedliner coating as the finish coat. Seems to yield a pretty nice result, and is supposed to be very durable.
I've got a restored dash from Just Dashes in my E24, and I think it's perfect, and hopefully very long-lasting. They do great work, but it's almost $2k now, and they're usually backed up for at least several months.
I've got a restored dash from Just Dashes in my E24, and I think it's perfect, and hopefully very long-lasting. They do great work, but it's almost $2k now, and they're usually backed up for at least several months.
Dean
Lutz, FL
'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z
Lutz, FL
'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z
dwcains wrote:I've seen guys with Alfa Spider's and Datsun 240Z's ue expanding polymer foam to fill the cracks, and the spray truck bedliner coating as the finish coat. Seems to yield a pretty nice result, and is supposed to be very durable.
I've got a restored dash from Just Dashes in my E24, and I think it's perfect, and hopefully very long-lasting. They do great work, but it's almost $2k now, and they're usually backed up for at least several months.
Just dashes is in my backyard, how much did they charge you???
Wow not cheap. If i were to do mine i would leave the dash in place. But the filler must be the right material. I will visit just dashes and see what they use. Bed liner paint huu? Ill have to look into that. Thanksdwcains wrote:Previous owner had it done around 3 years ago, I think it was ~$1400. More $$ now, from what I hear.
There's a YouTube vid out there somewhere. They completely remove all the old foam, and apply a new layer of foam over the original metal frame. Then they shape it with grinders and sanders, and finally vacuum-form the top vinyl layer. It's an interesting process.
Dean
Lutz, FL
'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z
Lutz, FL
'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z
This appears to have worked well as you had fairly small cracks. I did something similar on my Porsche 928 but once painted, it looked like a scarred up face from a horror movie.
I used superglue and baking soda. In hindsight JB weld may be a better option because it takes longer to set up
I used superglue and baking soda. In hindsight JB weld may be a better option because it takes longer to set up
With best regards,
Al
85 M635, DFW, TX
Al
85 M635, DFW, TX
- hornhospital
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2929
- Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:46 pm
- Location: Silverhill, AL
- Contact:
It sets up like concrete, but wear thick rubber gloves as it's likely to set your fingers on fire too!hornhospital wrote:Super glue and baking soda! I hadn't thought of that in years! That's how we used to build balsa wood RC airplanes back in the day. You may destroy the wood in a shunt, but the joints never failed!
With best regards,
Al
85 M635, DFW, TX
Al
85 M635, DFW, TX
- hornhospital
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2929
- Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:46 pm
- Location: Silverhill, AL
- Contact:
Is there a way when the filler (what ever you choose to use) is setting to emboss the surface?
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
You can get a stamp that has the grain which you press into the filler material while it's still not set up to give it the grainy look just like you would on those concrete walls to give them a faux stone look.sansouci wrote:Is there a way when the filler (what ever you choose to use) is setting to emboss the surface?
I suspect that you have to be really good to use them as it assumes no sanding.
With best regards,
Al
85 M635, DFW, TX
Al
85 M635, DFW, TX
alabbasi wrote:You can get a stamp that has the grain which you press into the filler material while it's still not set up to give it the grainy look just like you would on those concrete walls to give them a faux stone look.sansouci wrote:Is there a way when the filler (what ever you choose to use) is setting to emboss the surface?
I suspect that you have to be really good to use them as it assumes no sanding.
What happens after sanding, don't think it will work.
Is that a question? If so then no, I do not think it will work. You're adding a textured finish to something that's yet to harden. Once it has hardened, then sanding it will sand the texture back to smooth. Just like wet sanding orange peel after painting a car.v-wiz wrote:alabbasi wrote:You can get a stamp that has the grain which you press into the filler material while it's still not set up to give it the grainy look just like you would on those concrete walls to give them a faux stone look.sansouci wrote:Is there a way when the filler (what ever you choose to use) is setting to emboss the surface?
I suspect that you have to be really good to use them as it assumes no sanding.
What happens after sanding, don't think it will work.
With best regards,
Al
85 M635, DFW, TX
Al
85 M635, DFW, TX
Check this product out if your looking for different textures.
http://www.urethanesupply.com/_pdf/info3803.pdf
http://www.urethanesupply.com/_pdf/info3803.pdf
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The plasti dip looks interesting if it comes in a less glossing finish. I wonder how it would hold up to UV rays?
I think the Urethane products coating, given that it is advertised for automotive trim and plastics, would offer good adhesion, good UV protection, and can be textured more or less depending on what the owner is striving for.
I bought the SEM undercoating based on another forum how to but, I think I'm going to use the Urethane Products coating and shoot it so the texture is as smooth as I can get it. It won't be Napa leather like what originally came in my M6, but it will be as smooth as I can get it and hopefully colored as close as possible as the original brown leather.
I think the Urethane products coating, given that it is advertised for automotive trim and plastics, would offer good adhesion, good UV protection, and can be textured more or less depending on what the owner is striving for.
I bought the SEM undercoating based on another forum how to but, I think I'm going to use the Urethane Products coating and shoot it so the texture is as smooth as I can get it. It won't be Napa leather like what originally came in my M6, but it will be as smooth as I can get it and hopefully colored as close as possible as the original brown leather.