Two questions...window and heat repair

[copernicus]

Sorry if this is a repeat question but I have been unable to find the answers using the search. First, I am trying to repair the drivers window in my 77 630 csi. I have tried replacing the switch with a known good switch with no luck. I then pulled the door card and found the bare motor (as in no plasic covering the rotor/windings) disconnected from the gear mechanism that connects to the regulator. This motor does nothing when the switch is operated so Im assuming that the motor is kaput. Can I replace it with one from the rear windows ( i never use them) and how do I go about getting the worm to thread back into the gear mechanism?



Second, I have neither blower operating in the car. I pulled out the panel that the HVAC controls are on and cleaned it up. It has 2 bosch relays on it that Im guessing are bad since I have no function from any of the dials (except the clock in the fan switch) can someone point me in the correct direction on this. Should I try to replace both of the relays on the board?? If so when can I get these??


Thanks for reading my rant about my new favorite addiction that is my shark

[Pod]

The front & rear window motors are different. Throw yours away and buy another! I have one available, but I'm in the UK

You may have blown transistors. If you do a search you will find some threads regarding replacement.

Good luck.

[Chris Wright]

Sorry if this is a repeat question but I have been unable to find the answers using the search. First, I am trying to repair the drivers window in my 77 630 csi. I have tried replacing the switch with a known good switch with no luck. I then pulled the door card and found the bare motor (as in no plasic covering the rotor/windings) disconnected from the gear mechanism that connects to the regulator. This motor does nothing when the switch is operated so Im assuming that the motor is kaput. Can I replace it with one from the rear windows ( i never use them) and how do I go about getting the worm to thread back into the gear mechanism?

The gear box assemblies are different front to back, but Brucey seems to indicate that the motors themselves may be the same?

6er Window Motors (long... '81 shown, most others similar):
viewtopic.php?t=12107

[Chris Wright]

Second, I have neither blower operating in the car. I pulled out the panel that the HVAC controls are on and cleaned it up. It has 2 bosch relays on it that Im guessing are bad since I have no function from any of the dials (except the clock in the fan switch) can someone point me in the correct direction on this. Should I try to replace both of the relays on the board?? If so when can I get these??

There are two blowers up front, one for the Heating/Ventilation and one for the A/C,

Since nothing seems to be working in hte A/C - Heat panel, check the power to the panel first. There is a relief relay as well as a fuse. Pull fuse #14 and check it for continuity. Check that the fuse sockets are not pushed back into the holder and not making contact. With the key on, check for voltage at the socket for fuse #14 (one of the two sockets should have voltage). If there is no voltage, then check the "Relief Relay" at the fuse box. I'm not sure which one it is, do you have an owners manual?
__

If all of that checks out, then we need a bit more info.

There are 3 transistors, one at the heater blower and one at the A/C blower and one in the Blower Speed Control knob in the dash itself.

To troubleshoot what is wrong:
With the key in the run position, and the Temp knob to heat (High temp range), turn the Blower Speed Control knob from low to high. The heater blower should run at variable speeds until it reaches the max position at which point a micro-switch is depressed that routes full voltage direct to the blower. Rotate the Blower Speed Control knob back to low. Now turn the Temp knob to A/C (Low temp range) and turn the Blower Speed Control knob from low to high again and see if the A/C blower runs variable until it reaches the max position and runs on high.

1) If the heater blower only runs on high in the full Max position and the A/C runs normal, then the heater blower transistor is bad.

2) If the A/C blower only runs on high and the heater runs normal, then the A/C blower transistor is bad.

3) If both the heater & A/C blowers only run on high, then the Blower Speed Control transistor in the dash is bad.

Here is removing the heater blower and replacing the heater blower transistor (with lots of pics!):
http://www.normgrills.net/bcg/Blower_Transistor.htm


_____________

As to the Relays, one is a standard 4 prong relay that energizes the A/C compressor and the other is a 5 prong Change-Over relay (not to be confused with the 5 prong Master relay) that switches full power back and forth between the heater blower and the A/C blower. Here is some relay information with numbers and sources:
viewtopic.php?t=16409


Here is a download for an '80's ETM. It's not very good, but better then nothing:
viewtopic.php?t=8147

Here is the Heater - A/C section of the above diagram that I have drawn in the internal wiring of some of the relays and switches:

[copernicus]

Ill check that relay as soon as I get home. I checked the fuse and it seemed to be fine.

Thanks for all your help with my little Jabberjaw so far

[Chris Wright]

I believe the relief relay is the one in the fuse box at the Right, Bottom corner as you stand at the driver's fender looking down at the box.

[copernicus]

I swapped the relief relay with a known good relay (foglight relay) and still have no response freom either blower. I didn't have my meter handy to check voltage at the fuse but I was able to pull the cover off the relay and the relay was pulled closed. I will check voltage tonight. I'm going to our local vintage BMW swapmeet tomorrow at Heritage Motorsports so I'll ask around down there for some suggestions as well. If I do indeed have voltage at the fuse and the relay is pulled in should I start checking for voltage on the HVAC panel or at the motors themselves??

[Chris Wright]

Check for input voltage at the GRN/BRN wires to the Blower Motor Switch and the Relays to see if power if getting to the panel.

Then, with the key on and the Blower Motor Switch to Max, check the ground at the Micro-switch on the A/C and Heater Temp Switch.

[JCS]

Hi Folks,

Here is an old A/C blower thread.
My car has the A/C blower operates only on high.
The heater blower works on all speeds, correctly.
In this post by Chris Wright, the 4th one dated 9-26-12 at 4:51 pm.

My car has problem #2.In RED.
Does anyone know where is this transistor located? What type is it, is there a part # , where to buy?

"START Quote,
There are 3 transistors, one at the heater blower and one at the A/C blower and one in the Blower Speed Control knob in the dash itself.

To troubleshoot what is wrong:
With the key in the run position, and the Temp knob to heat (High temp range), turn the Blower Speed Control knob from low to high. The heater blower should run at variable speeds until it reaches the max position at which point a micro-switch is depressed that routes full voltage direct to the blower. Rotate the Blower Speed Control knob back to low. Now turn the Temp knob to A/C (Low temp range) and turn the Blower Speed Control knob from low to high again and see if the A/C blower runs variable until it reaches the max position and runs on high.

1) If the heater blower only runs on high in the full Max position and the A/C runs normal, then the heater blower transistor is bad.

2) If the A/C blower only runs on high and the heater runs normal, then the A/C blower transistor is bad.

3) If both the heater & A/C blowers only run on high, then the Blower Speed Control transistor in the dash is bad.

Here is removing the heater blower and replacing the heater blower transistor (with lots of pics!):
http://www.normgrills.net/bcg/Blower_Transistor.htm this link is dead
END Quote"

[JCS]

Forum Members,

Well I found this transistor part on Realoem, # 64111381785 , I think this what I need.

LINK, http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... 4111381785

Best,

[baders]

Jay, some research on that part indicate that the actual transistor is an 2N3771g. If you are handy with soldering you can attempt replacement of the transistor alone. I see FCPEuro has the whole assembly for US$100. I also see that Mouser has that particular transistor for US$4.

http://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-S ... 5L5rExbQ==

[JCS]

Baders,

Thank you, I know about that part # from all of the threads and posts on the Heater Blower, at the firewall engine compartment.

But I was not sure about the A/C area, as all of the diagrams for the m6 did not show the transistor, #15 was omitted from the 10/87 m6, A/C pictures.
I then found it on the 635 CSi, and # 15 was not omitted.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=64_0484

Thanks again,