tail light frame corrosion

[Max Funderburk]

Fellow 6'ers,
Got a tip for you..I am on my 3rd 6 Series and never knew about this little gem of a problem that needs to be corrected sooner rather than later.

Unlike some problems with our 6 coupes, this one is easy to fix...... but like most problems with our 6 coupes, it's not easy on the wallet.

If you see "wavy" chrome or bulging rubber gaskets around the metal chrome frame that houses your rear tail lights, you need to get in there before the gaskets are ruptured.?

In the case of bulging gaskets, there not much you can do about the frame except replace it, but if not too far gone, a little rubber restorer will bring the gaskets back to life.

I am told that this is a common problem but if either of my 2 previous 635's had the problem, I was not aware. At $200 plus for 'each' frame and $200 plus for 'each' gasket, it is a costly venture and needs to be caught early to save some bucks.

The location of most of the corrosion build up on my '88 6 series was right in the middle of the lower part of the tail light lens/frame area.....there was also deterioration on the left and right near the threaded attachment studs...........See photos 1 and 2

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If you are 'preventive maintenance" type, even if there are no signs of corrosion presently, I would take them apart and have a look....perhaps there are some lubricants or metal treatments that could stop the onslaught of the deterioration that I encountered?

Steps: (reference parts chart below...photo#3)
(A) Unscrew plastic knurled screw-on knobs and remove tail light lenses....carefully remove the gasket (2) -behind the lens-from the chrome frame.....since the gasket will have some "form" to it, note orientation of gasket and reinstall the same way it comes out of the frame. Removing gasket will prevent it being damaged later.

(B) Remove rear and side trunk carpeted panels to expose tail light assemblies.

(C) Remove the six 8mm hex nuts (9) for each light assembly...the nuts hold the bulb carrier (6) and the support frame (3) with gaskets (4) together and securely onto the body.

Separate the gasket (4) from frame (3) very carefully so as not to tear the rubber....hopefully you will not find serious corrosion as I did.

If you are a hex nut dropper as I am, have a light and a flex-magnet with you, those things get into the darnest places when dropped !!

Good luck, fellow Shark lover, Max F

[markh]

Max - so I find myself with most of this dissasembled at the moment as my tail light assemblies are out to Mr. Fixit for a refurb. I was thinking about removing the tail light trim and gasket just to get evertything clean and instepcted (as you mention), but those gaskets aren't cheap and I just assumed that removal would require replacing with new ones (#4). You seem OK with reusing the gaskets. Really?!

[bpoliakoff]

If you go easy, the gaskets will be fine. The thing you are looking for that determines whether or not you need a new gasket is if it is dried out and has lost its flex(sponginess)

[markh]

Thanks - scope creep as usual. How was the snow?

[Max Funderburk]

Hi Mark, yes, I put some rubber restore on them and they are like new. They seem to fit all the way around and look to be sealed okay. Was fortunate to catch the corrosion before it did damage to them. They weren't adhered to the frame and no ripping occurred when I separated them. I could not believe the corrosion. Good Luck, Max

[markh]

Hi Mark, yes, I put some rubber restore on them and they are like new.

Max - what rubber restorer did you use? I'm diving in as soon as I can get the 6er out of storage.

[Max Funderburk]

Hi Again Mark, I put this stuff on all the door gaskets in the fall of the year-before winter storage..order info below...WURTH Rubber Care Gel Stick. Keeps the rubber like new.

Is there anything that Amazon does not have these days? LOL
http://www.amazon.com/Wurth-Rubber-Care ... B00A0P63WY

Good luck, hope you find all in good shape.....Maxnt

[Chris Wright]

Gummi Pflege is also highly recommended. It sounds very similar to the Wurth but is a better valve. the Wurth is 75ml which is 2.5 fl oz. for $15. Where as the Gummi Pflege Rubber Care Stick is 3.4 fl. oz at $8: http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-G ... sbs_auto_1

Here is the original BMW Gummi Pflege - It seems to no longer be available:

Gummi-Pflege (82 149 407 015 - Rubber Treatment):
http://www.z3bimmer.com/OffTopic/E24Bimmer//Gummi/

[markh]

Max, Chris - thanks. Will add this to the to-do list.

[winni7]

What kinds of things should you look for when buying a corrosion meter? Is there a website that carries reviews of them?
corrosion meter

[winni8]

What kinds of things should you look for when buying a corrosion meter? Is there a website that carries reviews of them?
corrosion meter

[Noct]

I would think if the metal is in decent shape, maybe just a WD-40 spray before putting everything back together would be a good idea? Particularly if the gaskets are in "so-so" shape...

[markh]

I just finished my tail light refurb, and as Max indicated the removal of the chrome bezels and gaskets was pretty straight forward. No corrosion luckily and everything went back together nicely. The Mr. Fixit tail light refurb with an added relay made a huge difference. Highly recommend Andy's services. Next, on to the headlights.

[Noct]

My headlights definitely could use some upgrading... supposedly the '88 is supposed to have "ellipsoids" which I've read a little bit about. It would seem that this car just has sealed beam headlights... but the wiring would be different I think. Strange, since it's an '88 model but there is some mystery to this car since it had all the '88 markings and a 3/87 build date. The original bill of sale was in '89 so I think it might have spent some extra time in the factory for some reason. At first I thought a PO had possibly upgraded to world bumpers, etc. but after seeing the original sale date I figured that theory is unlikely.