Leatherique Interior Project Begins

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rhanley 635csi89
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by rhanley 635csi89 »

I forgot the speaker covers were metal and they weren't primed. The dye currently can easily be damaged with a touch of a finger nail. At some point I'll remove the dye and prep the metal with "Bulldog Adheasive Promotor/Cleaner". This product was recommended by a local Auto Body Supply distributor and should be used on the metal and plastic components. I like the idea of this product as it will not add build up to the small holes.
I'm also going to install new backing on the speaker covers, some type of fabric or foam, if I can find a source and available in small quantities.
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by MSGGrunt »

Did they say that the Leather dye can be used on the plastic parts if they are first sprayed with an adhesion promoter or primer? I am having the hardest time finding a paint that even comes close to matching the newly dyed leather bits and its getting expensive buying products that don't match.
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by rhanley 635csi89 »

I called Kristi at Leatherique regarding their dye on plastic, she stated to clean the plastic pieces with Prestine Clean and then apply their Prepping Agent product and the dye will adhead to the plastic. No adhesion promoter is required.

I did additional research on the Bulldog product, this product works on all types of plastic and since the dye is a polymer-based dye that can be used on leather, vinyl and plastic it will work with the Bulldog product.

Next I made samples using each of the products above on the rear seat buck female plastic ring. On one piece I applied the Prestine clean and the Prepping agent, this removed the gloss on the plastic. On the other piece I applied the Prestine clean and Bulldog Adhesive Promoter. I then applied the dye to each. The application of the dye in both cases went on the same.

It's been 8 hours since the dye was applied to both pieces and IMHO the adhesion appears to be better on the Bulldog piece, photo on the right. Remember curing time is 48 hours for the dye, I'll report back at that time, around noon on Friday.
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by MSGGrunt »

If I could get the Leatherique to adhere to plastic either using an adhesion promotor or not would be great news. Then I will know for sure that the plastic parts will match the leather. My only concern is that some of the new parts I ordered from the dealer were only available in black. I wonder how many coats it would take to cover a black piece? Or, I wonder if the dye could be sprayed over paint? I could paint the black plastic parts with a tan paint made specifically to adhere to plastic and then top coat with the Leatherique just to match the color.

Maybe it's time I call and ask Leatherique what they recommend.
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by v-wiz »

MSGGrunt wrote:If I could get the Leatherique to adhere to plastic either using an adhesion promotor or not would be great news. Then I will know for sure that the plastic parts will match the leather. My only concern is that some of the new parts I ordered from the dealer were only available in black. I wonder how many coats it would take to cover a black piece? Or, I wonder if the dye could be sprayed over paint? I could paint the black plastic parts with a tan paint made specifically to adhere to plastic and then top coat with the Leatherique just to match the color.

Maybe it's time I call and ask Leatherique what they recommend.

A local upholstery shop by my house custom matches color/paint. You need paint for plastic pieces. Try to find a shop that will do that for you.
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by MSGGrunt »

I went to a local auto paint supply (PPG) store and asked them to color match my dyed leather and they said their machine could not "read" off leather. I'm going to try spraying the dyes on the plastic and see what happens.

Also waiting to see how rhanley 635csi89 hear how his turned out.
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by rhanley 635csi89 »

After more then 48hrs of dye drying time I applied the finger nail scratch test, using the same amount of pressure to each piece(the best I could), I did NOT get down to the plastic on the Bulldog piece but did on the Prep Agent piece. However, using a greater amount of pressure I was also able to remove the dye down to the plastic on the Bulldog piece as well. The Bulldog product definitely had greater adhesion then the Prep Agent application and will hold up quite well. As of now I plan on proceeding with the Bulldog product, however, I'll await your paint results/decision before I proceed.

I'd like to share the following with the group. I've been think of what else could been done having the seats out of the car being apart to assure years of great, trouble free operation. As I do not want to take these seats apart again any time soon. I checked all the seat welds, the worn piping was replaced and all piping and seams had re enforced stitching applied.
So what else?
I added padding to the backs/seats between the pads and springs to add more comfort, after all the seats are 30 years old and the original pads have given way to some degree.
Greased the cables and gears with axle greased.
edit: Clean all electrical contacts.
Adjust cables which allow the back of the seat to tilt forward.
Removed approximately 3/8 inch of the cable sheathing (the sheathing becomes stretched and disengages the metal cable within the motor/gears) on all the power seat cables to assure the metal cable engages the motors/gears now and in the future. I started with the clamp and hose method, I found this very time consuming. The method I'm using now is to heat up metal end piece (remove it), cut the sheathing, replace metal end piece after heating it up. this doesn't take a lot of heat, 1 second with a Bernsomatic Map gas hand held torch. The metal cable should be removed and reinsert once the end piece is re attached. There are several YouTube posted on the method.
Is there any thing else that should be considered? Roger

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AlpineWeiss II (218)/Natur(0200)
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by MSGGrunt »

Today brought me another step closer to being satisfied with this project and in the end I will write up a shortened version of this thread on what I found worked. I was having ZERO luck finding a paint that I could paint all the plastic interior trim pieces and that would match the newly dyed leather. Well, today I found the solution. I found a different local automotive paint supplier who could and did color match my newly dyed leather and made me two custom spray cans that matched the Natur. The product is Omni-Pak Master Blend EZ Touch. He mixed a special blend just to adhere to plastic. At $25.00 a can it wasn't inexpensive but, it is a dead on match.
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by MSGGrunt »

The other dilemma I was having is what to do with the dash and darker brown two-tone pieces that came in my 1987 M6. I know I will no longer have an original or redone leather dash and I wanted to keep the two-tone leather door tops as they are in great condition except for a bit of fading over the years. I went searching for anything that matched the non sun damaged leather of the dark brown that was hidden out of the way of the suns harmful UV rays. Believe it or not I found a color sample at home depot that is the perfect dark almost black brown. It is Behrs Espresso Beans PPU5-1. I had the same paint shop mix up two more cans in the dark brown and I will paint my "normal" E24 dash to as closely replicate (without being leather) the look color wise of the original dash. I then may, depending on how the original dark brown trim looks next to the newly painted dash, send off a sample of the new dash color to Leatherique to mix up a custom color just for the darker pieces. This way the dash and dark brown leather trim will match.

I thought this was the best option. The other options I had been contemplating were to keep the dash black and use the black non leather door top trim pieces out of a 635, which I have from a parts car. The second option was to paint the dash and the 635 door trim the same dark brown and store away the leather M6 pieces. This would not be correct but at least there would be a contrasting dark brown dash and door top trim against the rest of the Natur leather.

My only concern with the dash color is I had the shop mix up a low sheen and it comes out pretty flat. I'm wondering if I should have gone with the mid level of gloss? I will paint it with what I have and if I decide I want a glossier finish I'll buy another can and topcoat it with the glossier paint.
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by MSGGrunt »

The speaker pods and Euro headrest surrounds came out very nice, I couldn't be happier. I still need to recover the back of the speaker grills with fabric, paint the BMW Premium Sound logo, install the speakers and bolt everything in the car but, progress is being made.
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Damn that looks good!!!

Post by GRNSHRK »

In fact, the entire project looks stunning, you should be very proud with your efforts =D>

Grunt, hope you haven't forgetten me, although I realize that you're still sorting through the process, the latest being obtaining paint for the plstic and metal bits that match the leather [-o<
:mrgreen:
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by jumbee »

Sweet :D
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by v-wiz »

very nicely done.. Im glad you found the paint in the can you wanted. I plan on starting my interior project soon. Whats everyone using for vinyl? my headliner is vinyl and want to change the color to black from cream. Any suggestions?
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by Bimmers4life »

Those interior pieces are looking good. That's a very nice job :lol:
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by Finally6 »

There is impressive work being done there!!
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by MSGGrunt »

Soon it will be time to start putting the interior back in the car and some good finished pictures. One thing I can report is that I changed from using the Air Brush to using a touch up gun with a 0.6 tip. I like the more adjustable fan of the touch up gun and I really like the added capacity of the touch up gun's larger cup.
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by MSGGrunt »

This is the spray gun I switched to and like a lot better than the AB. Yes, you have to be carful not to lay on too much dye at one time but, the added capacity of the detail gun is much nicer.

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/ ... 92126.html
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by MSGGrunt »

I am happy to report that the dying project is complete. As of yesterday every piece has been re-dyed, now I am just waiting for them to cure a bit before I start putting everything back together and into the car. This was a huge project but, one that I can only imagine will transform the inside of the car.

The only small bits that the interior will need are:

- A new leather shifter surround. My current one has a small hole in it.
- Fix or replace the hairs around the parking brake. I have a 1 1/2" section missing the hair.
- I have decided to keep the original M leather door top panels so I will have to find some way to re-dye the top dark brown section to match my "custom" brown dash.
- Find a better or recover my driver's door pull. The leather on mine has deteriorated from years of use and the actual leather split and not at the seem. I stitched it back together as best as possible as a stop gap but, eventually this will have to be professionally addressed. I have searched for a one of these and they seem next to impossible to find in good shape.
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by MSGGrunt »

The rear seats, side trim, parcel shelf, speakers, Euro headrests, rear AC, parking brake surround, driver's seat and front door panels are all installed. I am happy with the results. I will have to order a small amount of dye to touch up here and there but the install went well. Boy you really need to make sure your hands are clean when working with the leather.

I still have the front driver's knee bolster, glove box door, shifter/radio surround and the two pillar trim pieces left to install. When I order the extra Natur from Leatherique I'll send them a sample of the dark brown leather as found on the door top trim and have them mix up a custom color so I can dye these. You can see where the old dye came off the leather from the painter's tape I used when masking it off to dye the light portions.
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Mark Shutt
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by Mark Shutt »

looks awesome! did you use any clear coat to give a hard wearing protection?
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by MSGGrunt »

I didn't use the clear. I was afraid it would make the leather shiny, which I didn't want. The rear seats won't get any use so those will stay in great shape. With the occasional use the car does get I'm hoping I can keep everything looking nice.
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by slofut »

WOW! :shock: Man that looks nice! Good job.
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by MSGGrunt »

I've been asked to summarize my findings on what worked best for my project, so here goes.

I used Leatherique products and so far I am very happy with them.

- Remove whatever parts you want to dye. If dying the seats I suggest separating the back from the bottom, extend the headrest as high as possible and extend the leg support (sport seats) out as far as possible.

- First I used Jasco lacquer thinner bought at my local big box home store to remove as much of the original dye as possible. I used Scott HEAVY DUTY shop towels, the ones in the blue box. The normal Scott shop towels in the red box just fell apart in my hand while wiping the leather. A lot of dye will come off but, eventually you will start to see where you are getting down to the base leather, this is where I stopped stripping the dye.

- Next I gave everything a good coat of Leatherique rejuvenator oil and let the pieces soak. I just rubbed the oil in with my hands.

- After the oil soaked into the leather I used a spray bottle to apply the Pristine Clean and remove all the residue and crud lifted out of the leather by the rejuvenator oil with a sponge dipped in clean water and let the seats dry for several days.

- I then hit everything with Leatherique's super prepping solution. I did use a grey scotchbrite pad just to give the leather a bit of a "tooth".

- Now on to the actual dying process.

- Shake the dye bottle and shake some more and some more. With the bottles full it is difficult to shake but you have to get all of the pigments that settle on the bottom of the container to mix up well.

- My initial 75% dye to 25% distilled water ratio did not work. It worked for a little while but, quickly clogged my Air Brush. I then found success with a 50% dye to 50% distilled water ratio. I also ultimately found the reservoir on the air brush to be way too small for the amount of pieces I was dying. For me it was a pain to have to keep filling the very small reservoir so often. I bought a Harbor Freight touch up gun with a 0.6 tip that had a much larger reservoir and with all of my interior spread out I didn't have to refill as often. I only mixed about 1 cup of the 50/50 solution at a time. Do not mix all of your dye at one time.

- I found 35 psi worked ideally with the HF gun. I ran my air through a dryer as well as an oil separated that I also picked up at HF. You will have to adjust your spray pattern to whatever is comfortable for you.

- Your room, garage, basement, etc. needs to be warm. The warmer the better. I tried getting away with spraying in a less than ideal temperature room and the dye will not dry as it should. And if you put too much on you will get a dark brown (with Natur anyway) "stain" that will have to be sanded out and re-dyed.

- I used a propane torpedo heater to heat up my garage as hot as possible and the dye dried as it should.

- The dye is water based and does not give off fumes but, I suggest wearing a dust mask at a minimum. No particles in your lungs are healthy.

- I allowed 10 to 15 minutes between coats or until I could see that the dye was dry.

- Use light coats. Lots of light coats. Almost dry mist the pieces.

- I tried applying the dye using the cloth dab on method, high end artist paint brush method, air brush method with 0.5, 0.6 and 0.8 tip and finally what worked best for me was the Harbor Freight touch up gun with a 0.6 tip set at 35 psi.

- I did use Leatherique's crack filler in a couple small areas and I have to advise to be careful not to get this where you do not want it. It is very tough stuff to sand and I eventually ended up using one of those small hand held triangular headed detail sanders to smooth out the filler. The filler does not take the dye the same as the leather and will take more coats so the white filler does not show through. How durable this is will remain to be seen.


I hope I covered everything. I can't say enough about Leatherique's products. The dye went on very nicely once I figured out the best gun, ratio and air pressure to use. I did not use the protective clear coat that Leatherique sells as I didn't really know about it at the time. Still, I like the no sheen look of the interior. I ordered their largest kit and will still need to order another small bottle for a couple of small pieces I forgot to dye as well as to have on hand if I need to touch things up in the future.

Feel free to ask any questions and I can always update my findings.
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by Bimmers4life »

Nice job.....it turned out very good!!!
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Re: Leatherique Interior Project Begins

Post by v-wiz »

They look great, good job, you should be proud of your achievements. You didn't mention what you did with the plastic bits? im assuming you used the Bulldog product? then applied the dye? or did you find a matching spray paint.

I plan on starting my interior overhaul soon as well, so this is all good info. What would you recommend i do with my rubber door handles? should i use the Bulldog product then apply the dye?
Thanks.
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