Ignition switch / lock
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Ignition switch / lock
My spring return has gone in my ignition lock, like the key doesn't self return too well to the run position - otherwise all good. Is this the lock/barrel assembly or the bastard switch?
Thanks, Chris
Thanks, Chris
'85 635csi JPS (RA2-66)
Re: Ignition switch / lock
Ok I'll ask this another way. i\Is the self return spring/mechanism of the ignition lock in the lock barrel or the ignition switch. Also, are the pre-'85 change model switches really circa USD175?
'85 635csi JPS (RA2-66)
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Re: Ignition switch / lock
I'm pretty sure its in the switch. If you take it off, you can test it for return movement with a flat-bladed screwdriver. I'm also pretty sure the part will be common to other BMW models of that age, so you should be able to find a good one on a parts car. (but I stand to be corrected!)jps635 wrote:Ok I'll ask this another way. i\Is the self return spring/mechanism of the ignition lock in the lock barrel or the ignition switch. Also, are the pre-'85 change model switches really circa USD175?
Re: Ignition switch / lock
Thanks Pod. I've been putting this off for some time, since I have to get the 6 or 7 "fracture" bolts out , but is annoying. Despite the horrendous price I'll likely get new, since any second hand one will be around same age / usage.
'85 635csi JPS (RA2-66)
- Hefeweizen
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Re: Ignition switch / lock
my guess would be the lock cylinder and not the switch. I did a little write up on how to replace the lock. I think BMW can rekey the new lock cylinder and you should be all set.
http://house-calls.us/Steering.html
http://house-calls.us/Steering.html
Rainer
03 330Xi (DD)
85 635CSi (RIP 3 May 19)
80 633CSi (Red Euro, Project)
"If you think a good European mechanic is expensive, try a bad one!"
03 330Xi (DD)
85 635CSi (RIP 3 May 19)
80 633CSi (Red Euro, Project)
"If you think a good European mechanic is expensive, try a bad one!"
- hornhospital
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Re: Ignition switch / lock
True. It's the tumbler that's spring loaded to return. And yes, BMW can supply a new tumbler to match your original key. We did so on the 633.Hefeweizen wrote:my guess would be the lock cylinder and not the switch. I did a little write up on how to replace the lock. I think BMW can rekey the new lock cylinder and you should be all set.
http://house-calls.us/Steering.html
Trouble was ( ) the car had three keys, none of which matched the original ignition tumbler. The previous owner had been getting door, ignition and trunk tumblers from the junkyard, so the match-to-original tumbler didn't fit the key. I read a very appropriate expression that describes cars like my 633: POD, or "previous owner disease".
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
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Re: Ignition switch / lock
hornhospital wrote:POD, or "previous owner disease".
Re: Ignition switch / lock
So how does one get a barrel keyed to order. I can't see any coding on the key other than what looks like an S, and PO's name engraved - unless its inside the glued fob?
'85 635csi JPS (RA2-66)
- hornhospital
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Re: Ignition switch / lock
They can make it from your VIN information.
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
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Re: Ignition switch / lock
You mean that the vin stamped into the firewall is not present or has been removed? Have you tried looking at old receipts or service docs which often carry the vin. How about the inportation papers when registered, there must be a public record, surely?jps635 wrote:Thanks Ken. Unfortunately no VIN
Re: Ignition switch / lock
Factory motorsport race shell - Aussie assembled - no build specs. Race build chassis no. only.You mean that the vin stamped into the firewall is not present or has been removed? Have you tried looking at old receipts or service docs which often carry the vin. How about the inportation papers when registered, there must be a public record, surely?
'85 635csi JPS (RA2-66)
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Re: Ignition switch / lock
Oh well, its a new ignition lock for you thenjps635 wrote:Factory motorsport race shell - Aussie assembled - no build specs. Race build chassis no. only.You mean that the vin stamped into the firewall is not present or has been removed? Have you tried looking at old receipts or service docs which often carry the vin. How about the inportation papers when registered, there must be a public record, surely?
Re: Ignition switch / lock
Finally did this yesterday.
The spring return from run to crank is definitely in the switch itself. The rebate in the switch which the tang in the end of the barrel engages was pretty well flogged out. Also, the dooda piece that goes UP when the barrel is in position (not the steering lock) wouldn't stay retracted, so both bits were a bit buggered.
Thanks to Rainer for good notes. Only thing I did different was use a sharp centre punch instead of a chisel to loosen the shear bolts.
After putting it back together, I figured it was possible to replace the switch on its own without removing the barrel. Also I can't see why it wouldn't be possible to remove the barrel by only removing the one large (8mm) shear bolt and retainer tab, as you can get a finger in the end once the switch is out, but didn't try this after having it back in. I guess it would depend on how dry the barrel was (aluminium on aluminium). I sprayed the new barrel lightly with WD40 and wiped off before installing.
Once out, swapping over the lock cylinder was a doddle. There are 3 small holes on the barrel near the key end, two more or less together on one side and one on the other, 180 degrees around. In this one insert a small allan key, while gently prying out the lock cylinder with a flat bladed stubby screw driver with a twisting motion. Once the sprung arm is past the retaining groove on the barrel, it pulls straight out and straight in the new barrel.
This isn't a difficult job, especially as I already had my seats and centre console out, so room to move. I definitely wouldn't attempt with the drivers seat in especially as there are only 4 bolts to remove. On the heater core replacement scale would be a 3.
The spring return from run to crank is definitely in the switch itself. The rebate in the switch which the tang in the end of the barrel engages was pretty well flogged out. Also, the dooda piece that goes UP when the barrel is in position (not the steering lock) wouldn't stay retracted, so both bits were a bit buggered.
Thanks to Rainer for good notes. Only thing I did different was use a sharp centre punch instead of a chisel to loosen the shear bolts.
After putting it back together, I figured it was possible to replace the switch on its own without removing the barrel. Also I can't see why it wouldn't be possible to remove the barrel by only removing the one large (8mm) shear bolt and retainer tab, as you can get a finger in the end once the switch is out, but didn't try this after having it back in. I guess it would depend on how dry the barrel was (aluminium on aluminium). I sprayed the new barrel lightly with WD40 and wiped off before installing.
Once out, swapping over the lock cylinder was a doddle. There are 3 small holes on the barrel near the key end, two more or less together on one side and one on the other, 180 degrees around. In this one insert a small allan key, while gently prying out the lock cylinder with a flat bladed stubby screw driver with a twisting motion. Once the sprung arm is past the retaining groove on the barrel, it pulls straight out and straight in the new barrel.
This isn't a difficult job, especially as I already had my seats and centre console out, so room to move. I definitely wouldn't attempt with the drivers seat in especially as there are only 4 bolts to remove. On the heater core replacement scale would be a 3.
'85 635csi JPS (RA2-66)